LCBO Food and Drink Autumn 2016

good stuff from page 100

SPECK & FONTINA RISOTTO BAKED IN SQUASH There are a number of pumpkins and squashes that will work for this remarkable and impres- sive first course risotto. While the indicated kabocha or butternut are widely available, be on the lookout for more unusual varieties with that classic pumpkin shape such as Sweet Meat Squash or Cheese Pumpkin—both excel- lent eating squashes. Even a large pie pumpkin between 5 and 6 lbs (2.2 to 2.7 kg) would work beautifully. Avoid Halloween carving pump- kins as they are watery and flavourless. 6 lbs (2.7 kg) kabocha or butternut squash Salt and freshly ground pepper 3½ cups (875 mL) warm chicken stock 2 tsp (10 mL) chopped thyme 4 cloves garlic, finely chopped 1½ cups (375 mL) arborio or carnaroli rice 1 cup (250 mL) dry white wine ½ cup (125 mL) extra smooth ricotta ¼ cup (60 mL) finely grated Parmesan 1 cup (250 mL) coarsely grated fontina 2 oz (60 g) thinly sliced speck, cut into slivers 1 Preheat oven to 400°F (200°C). 2 Using a sharp sturdy knife, remove a cap from the top of the squash, as you would from a jack-o’-lantern, about 6 inches (15 cm) in diameter with the stem in the centre. Reserve the cap. Using your hand at first, remove and discard the seeds and as much of the stringy membrane as possible. Then, with a large sharp-edged spoon, scrape away remaining spongy membrane and discard. 3 Season the inside of the squash with salt and pepper; arrange on a baking sheet, cap on, and place in oven. Set a timer for 45 min- utes. Meanwhile, get the remaining ingre­ dients measured, chopped and waiting. Warm the chicken stock. 4 Once alarm indicates time is up, melt butter in a large saucepan. Once foaming, add onion, sage and thyme and sauté for 3 minutes or un- til translucent. Stir in garlic and cook 1 min- ute longer. Add rice to pot and stir to thor- oughly coat rice in butter. Pour wine over rice, stir, bring to a boil and reduce until pan is almost dry again, 3 to 4 minutes. Add chicken stock and bring to a boil. Slide squash out of oven, fill cavity with rice mixture and return to oven with cap snugly fitted; cook for 23 to 25 minutes or until rice is al dente. 3 tbsp (45 mL) butter 1 small onion, diced 6 sage leaves, torn

1 Preheat oven to 450°F (230°C). 2 Cut eggplants in half lengthwise through the stem. Arrange in a large roasting pan, cut-side up; brush exposed flesh with 3 tbsp (45 mL) oil and season generously with salt. Roast, uncovered, for 30 minutes. 3 Meanwhile, heat remaining 1 tbsp (15 mL) oil in a large skillet or wok over medium-high; fry garlic and ginger for 30 seconds or until fragrant. Stir in chili bean sauce and black beans; fry another 30 seconds or until oil is red. Add pork and cook until no longer pink, breaking chunks apart with a fork. In a small bowl, whisk together chicken stock, vinegar, soy sauce, sugar, water and cornstarch. Pour into pan, stir and bring to a boil. Once thick- ened, add tofu and gently mix. 4 Reduce oven temperature to 375°F (190°C). 5 Using a large spoon, gently compress the interior of each eggplant half, creating a shal- low well in the centre; divide tofu mixture be- tween eggplants allowing sauce to flow over sides. Seal pan with foil and return to oven for another 60 to 75 minutes or until fork-tender. 6 While eggplant is cooking, pick over Sich- uan peppercorns for any hard black seeds; discard seeds. Finely grind in a spice grinder and combine with sesame seeds. 7 Drizzle finished eggplants with chili oil if using, sprinkle peppercorn mixture overtop and garnish with green onions. Serves 6 $15.95 Riesling is always a great choice to accompany Asian- influenced dishes. This local example presents lime/ grapefruit and exotic floral notes that will complement the prevailing flavours in this dish. The delicate sweet- ness will temper the heat of the chili while the fresh acidity revitalizes the palate. $13.95 Looking for something a little out of the ordinary? Why not try this exotic Argentinian white. Its ripe peach, pear, melon, citrus fruit and exotic floral notes will highlight those Asian elements in the stuffing. A streak of fine palate-cleansing acidity helps complete the match. Susana Balbo Crios Torrontes VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 1834 WHAT TO SERVE Fielding Riesling VQA LCBO 146761

S ICHUAN-STUFFED EGGPLANT

Inspired by classic Sichuan ingredients, these spicy, velvety eggplants are delicious over chow mein noodles tossed with a little oil and garlic or plain steamed white rice. The chili bean sauce is sold in jars and is a spicy relative to miso—look for Lee Kum Kee brand. Fermented black beans are the base for the more widely known black bean and garlic sauce; the loose beans are sold in plastic bags, jars and even cardboard cartons while Chinkiang vinegar is inexpensive and can be used to make sweet-and-sour-style stir-fries. All three are available from Chi- nese grocers. 3 small eggplants, each 10 to 12 oz (300 to 375 g) ¼ cup (60 mL) peanut or canola oil, divided Salt 4 cloves garlic, finely chopped 2 tbsp (30 mL) finely chopped ginger 2 tbsp (30 mL) chili bean sauce (also labelled toban jiang ) 1 tbsp (15 mL) rinsed and finely chopped fermented black beans 8 oz (250 g) lean ground pork or beef ½ cup (125 mL) chicken stock 2 tbsp (30 mL) Chinkiang or balsamic vinegar 1 tbsp (15 mL) Japanese soy sauce

2 tsp (10 mL) sugar ¼ cup (60 mL) water 1 tbsp (15 mL) cornstarch 1 lb (500 g) soft or silken tofu, drained and cut into ½ inch (1 cm) dice 2 tsp (10 mL) Sichuan peppercorns 1 tbsp (15 mL) toasted sesame seeds 1 tbsp (15 mL) chili oil (optional) 2 green onions, chopped

148  FOOD & DRI NK AUTUMN 2016