LCBO Food & Drink Spring 2023

FRIES WITH THAT?

OIL CHANGE When it comes to frying, you need oil or fat that won’t break down at a high heat. Here are the two best options for fries. PEANUT OIL It costs a bit more than other basic vegetable oils, but it has a high smoke point and is less prone to developing off flavours in the fryer. BEEF TALLOW Available at select butcher shops, beef fat is also stable at high temperatures and it gives the potatoes a rich flavour. Depending on what you’re cooking, oil can generally be saved and reused for three rounds of deep-frying. While the oil is still warm, pass it through a sieve lined with a coffee filter into an airtight storage container, let cool, seal and freeze up to 3 months. Once it gets dark or sludgy, or develops any rancid odours, discard. HOW TO SAVE LEFTOVER OIL

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WHAT TO SERVE Sparkling wine is an easy pairing for fries. Its acidity and bubbles will cut the salty richness. Prefer a still wine? Try a crisp white like Pinot Grigio or Riesling. Inherent acidity and fruit refresh the palate and match almost any condiment. To mitigate the heat in spicy sauces or seasonings, choose sweeter wines. If you prefer red, go for fruity, low-tannin varieties like Pinot Noir or Gamay, which stand up to heartier fries like poutine. Beer lovers know that beer and fries are perfect together. A hoppy American style IPA would be ideal. The beer's maltiness complements the potato’s sweetness, while the carbonation and hops cleanse the palate.

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Top Spuds Without question, the best french fries are made from floury, baking-style potatoes, and in Canada that means russets ( 1 ). They’re high in starch and low in water, which translates to perfect fries. Yukon Golds ( 2 ) also work—they make sweet frites, but will be a little less crispy. And if you frequent farmers’ markets, look for varieties such as Maris Piper, King Edward and Rooster ( 3 ), which all make first-class fries.

ACCESSORIZE YOUR FRIES Looking for something beyond ketchup and vinegar to jazz up your fries? Here are a few fun alternatives to try.

SHICHIMI TOGARASHI This fragrant seven spice blend from Japan is terrific on fries, especially with spicy to-mayo. Available at Japanese and Korean grocers.

TRUFFLE SALT Potatoes and truffles are a match made in heaven. Gild the lily by also adding freshly grated Parm. Available at specialty grocers.

TAJÍN Salty, spicy and sour, this popular Mexican fruit seasoning is revelatory on fries. Available at Latin American grocers.

SPICY TO-MAYO Can’t decide between ketchup and mayo? How about both! Mix 1 cup (250 mL) mayo with 3 tbsp (45 mL) ketchup and a glug of hot sauce.

BUTTER CHICKEN Warm bottled butter chicken sauce then garnish with chopped red onion and cilantro. Bring cheese curds to the party for a South Asian poutine.

CURRYWURST For a quick version of this beloved German sauce, heat 1 cup (250mL) ketchup with 1 tbsp (15 mL) curry powder and a good squeeze of lime.

ILLUSTRATION BY DAVID SPARSHOTT

86 FOOD & DRINK SPRING 2023

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