LCBO Food & Drink Spring 2023

SPRING 2023

COMPLIMENTS OF

SPRING 2023 Contents

Features 64 PRETTY PLEASE Show-stopping desserts

bring delicate spring colours to your table. BY MICHELLE LUCAS LARVING 70 SMALL WONDERS Brighten up breakfast, lunch and dinner by adding nutrient-rich microgreens and seedlings. BY VICTORIA WALSH 76 SPRING DRINKS FORECAST Breakthroughs, innovations and passing fads in the world of cocktails. BY CHARLENE ROOKE

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SPRING 2023

ON THE COVER Sky-High Blueberry Buttermilk Cake, page 111

Photography by Maya Visnyei

COMPLIMENTS OF

PHOTOGRAPHY BY (TOP) MAYA VISNYEI; (BOTTOM RIGHT) ROB FIOCCA

FOOD & DRINK SPRING 2023 7

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CONTENTS

Departments

In Every Issue

Editor’s Notes

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Playing Favourites Simple tweaks and changeups help reinvent some favourite

Inside Scoop The latest bits, bites

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and sips to keep you in the know. BY ERIC VELLEND

seasonal dishes. BY ERIC VELLEND

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The Softer Side of Red Springtime turns our thoughts to softer, lighter red wines: a guide to what to buy. BY DOUG WALLACE One and Done Delectable one-pot dinners for two—paired with half-bottles. BY MIRANDA KEYES WITH ERIC VELLEND

Recipe Index

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A Splash of Red Wine

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Maple-lentil pâté with Merlot jelly— plant-based heaven! BY MEGAN POWELL

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Fries with That? Expert tips and techniques

unlock the secrets of producing restaurant quality frites. BY MICHAEL ELLIOTT

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Ladies’ Choice What are the cocktails women really like to drink— and who’s making them? BY CHRISTINE SISMONDO Drinks Take Flight Create your own sampler flights of cocktails, beers and wines—with snacks! BY JESSE VALLINS

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY (TOP) MAYA VISNYEI; (BOTTOM LEFT & RIGHT) ROB FIOCCA

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SPRING 2023

Chief Marketing and Digital Officer, LCBO Vanda Provato

EDITORIAL Editor Jody Dunn Drinks Editor Charlene Rooke Food Editor Eric Vellend Content Editor Victoria Walsh

Publication Coordinator Tricia Lahde Publication Assistant Piper MacFadyen

HERE’S TO PRIDE! Celebrate Pride with the perfect backyard drop-in menu

ART Creative Director Vanessa Wyse, Studio Wyse

Associate Creative Director Lucinda Wallace Senior Designer Hannah Browne Studio Manager Jenna King Photo Editor Sarah Palmer

CONTRIBUTORS James Chatto, Carol Dudar, Michael Elliott, Rob Fiocca, Lindsay Guscott, Katie Hayden,

Darren Kemper, Miranda Keyes, Michelle Lucas Larving, Catherine MacFadyen, Irene Matys, Andrea McCrindle, Vincent Noguchi, Megan Powell, Shelly Shnier, Christine Sismondo, David Sparshott, Christopher St. Onge,

James Tse, Jesse Vallins, Maya Visnyei, Doug Wallace, Genevieve Wiseman

PRODUCTION Production Coordinator Judy Haverkort Production Assistant Everton Smith Prepress Levon Gosdanian

Coming next issue AVAILABLE MAY 10

SALES Publisher Wayne Leek

Kirby Miller, Beaches Media Services kirby@beachesmediaservices.com

Many of the products featured in this issue are available to purchase online at lcbo.com.

For general inquiries about Food & Drink magazine or information about LCBO products and policy, please visit lcbocustomercare.com, or call toll-free 1.800.668.5226 or 416.365.5900. TTY Only: 416.864.6898 or 1.800.361.3291. All advertiser applications are subject to the terms and conditions of the LCBO’s advertising agreement. Food & Drink is published five times a year by the Liquor Control Board of Ontario. Volume 30, Number 3. Food & Drink is printed on paper that contains 10 per cent post‑consumer fibre. Food & Drink is recyclable in communities participating in magazine recycling programs. Publication Mail Agreement No. 40064521 Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Food & Drink , 100 Queens Quay East, 9th Floor, Toronto, ON, M5E 0C7 ISSN 1195-5988

SPOTLIGHT ON ASPARAGUS New ways to enjoy everyone’s favourite veg

RIBS 101 Everything you need to know to make the best ribs

Not all of the wines, spirits and beers mentioned in Food & Drink will be available at all LCBO stores. Prices are subject to change without notice. Cette publication est également disponible en français.

IN THE PINK A toast to rosé with pink drinks and pink food!

10 FOOD & DRINK SPRING 2023

NEW!

MEET THE NUEVA MARGARITA

bold flavour, crisp taste. made with premium vodka.

MUST BE LEGAL DRINKING AGE. © 2022 THE COCA-COLA COMPANY. “TOPO CHICO” AND “TOPO CHICO HARD SELTZER” ARE TRADEMARKS OF THE COCA-COLA COMPANY.

Please drink responsibly.

Inside Scoop The latest bits, bites and sips to keep you in the know. BY ERIC VELLEND

Visit lcbo.com/ fdcocktail to watch this drink being made.

The last dregs of jam and a few sprigs of wilted herbs are upcycled into a Gin & Jam Smash, a fragrant and refreshing drink. For this recipe and more tips on reducing waste at the bar, check out Waste Not on page 108. Smash Hit COCKTAIL OF THE MONTH

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DARREN KEMPER; FOOD STYLING BY CHRISTOPHER ST. ONGE; PROP STYLING BY SHELLY SHNIER

FOOD & DRINK SPRING 2023 21

INSIDE SCOOP

SUSTAINABLE On Appeal

It’s time to think outside the banana and eat the peel as well! Invariably tossed into the green bin, banana peels are perfectly edible and full of nutrients. You might think they’re fibrous and bitter, but very ripe bananas have peels that are soft and sweet. They’re cooked into a range of dishes around the world, from thoran stir fries in Kerala, India, to Southeast Asian curries. Because of their texture, banana peels can be transformed into meat substitutes, including faux pulled pork and ground beef. They’re also wonderful in chutneys and baked goods. Give them a whirl in our scrumptious Banana Peel Oat Loaf (page 108). BY IRENE MATYS

SUSTAINABLE WATER WELL In honour of Earth Day (April 22), here are a few tips on conserving water in the kitchen. 1 Instead of washing produce under running water, clean it in a mixing bowl filled with water, changing the water when necessary. 2 Keep a pail in the kitchen to save water from washing produce, rinsing rice, even the dregs from water bottles. Then, use it to water houseplants or your garden. 3 Instead of boiling vegetables in a large pot of water, cover and shallow-boil in 3/4 inch (2 cm) of water, stirring occasionally. This will also reduce salt use.

PANTRY RESCUE SOUR TIMES

You bought a jar of capers to garnish a smoked salmon platter, and the rest have been languishing in the fridge for months. Salty, sour and loaded with umami, capers can add a wallop of flavour to a wide range of dishes. Throw them into gravy for chicken, pork or veal. Chop and stir into pesto for a punchy sandwich spread. You can also shallow-fry capers in olive oil until crispy and sprinkle on seafood pasta or roasted cauliflower.

ILLUSTRATION BY DAVID SPARSHOTT

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COMING THIS SPRING

INSIDE SCOOP

SEASONAL SIPS High Lite

When the first flowers break ground, it’s time to start making the transition to lighter libations. To get you started, we’re suggesting a few refreshing, low-calorie highballs made with white spirits and flavoured soda waters. Simply stir 1 1/2 oz liquor with 4 oz chilled soda in a tall glass filled with ice. Garnish and raise a glass to spring!

gin +

white rum + Sparkling Ice Coconut Pineapple

blanco tequila + Perrier Pink Grapefruit

vodka + LaCroix Razz-Cranberry

San Pellegrino Essenza Lemon & Lemon Zest

SUSTAINABLE B KIND

Unlike most corporate designations, B Corp Certification is more holistic,

measuring how a company creates value for its employees and community along with being gentle on the environment. The nonprofit network B Lab sets high standards for both achieving and maintaining the certification, which builds trust with everyone from customers to suppliers. If you’re looking to support B Corp–certified companies at the LCBO, we’ve included a few options here or discover more at bcorporation.net.

Bench Brewing Lincoln Lager LCBO 16954, 473 mL, $3.35 A to Z Wineworks Pinot Noir

VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 229781, $27.95 Bruichladdich The Botanist Islay Dry Gin LCBO 358192, $57.95

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LOOK! FRESH new

SMASH COCKTAILS

Crafted IN ONTARIO

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@georgianbayspiritco DISCOVER MORE

Please Enjoy Responsibly © 2023 Georgian Bay Spirit Co.™

INSIDE SCOOP

Trendspotting A roundup of what we’re into this season.

Dandelion 101 While they’re the scourge of lawn lovers everywhere, dandelions have re-emerged as a food trend lately, thanks to health-conscious TikTokers. Packed with nutrients and offering many other purported health benefits, the plant and all its parts are now being used in everything from herbal teas to cocktail bitters. FLOWERS Since dandelion flowers are tricky to harvest and dry, they are rarely used commercially. There are, however, a few ways dedicated foragers can use fresh dandelion flowers at home. They can be steeped in hot water with lemon and honey for tea, or used to make a mead-like wine with citrus fruit, raisins and sugar. LEAVES Spiky dandelion leaves are ferociously bitter, but they can still be enjoyed raw in salads mixed with sweeter lettuces. More commonly, they’re cooked, either boiled and dressed with olive oil and lemon, or sautéed with bacon. The leaves are also dried and used in tea. Try Herbaria Dandelion Leaves 25 Tea Bags ($3.99, qinatural.ca) prized part of the plant. Roasted and ground, they make a popular caffeine-free coffee substitute— try Dandy Blend Instant Herbal Beverage with Dandelion (200 g, $24.95, well.ca). The rich flavour also works well in cocktail bitters like Rootside Roasted Dandelion Bitters (148 mL, $25, cocktailemporium.com). ROOTS Dandelion roots are the most

NEW BREWS As we say goodbye to wintery ales and heavy

stouts, we say hello to dozens of new and interesting local beers hitting the LCBO shelves this spring. From a classic wheat beer, to a fruity sour, to a New England-style IPA, here are three we’re especially excited about.

Muddy York Haberdasher Hefeweizen LCBO 32042, 473 mL, $3.35 A German-style wheat beer that offers up classic aromas and flavours of banana, clove and a touch of honey.

Rum Diary An essential bottle in every rum aficionado’s cabinet, Smith & Cross Traditional Jamaican Rum (LCBO 402834, $49.95) is one of the boldest spirits on the planet. It has funky flavours and navy strength (57%ABV), so a little goes a long way. Try it in tropical drinks that call for a small measure of Jamaican rum.

Prince Eddy’s Moon Patrol Guava Gose LCBO 31561, 355 mL, $3.95 Pouring an opaque orange-pink, this tropical sour refresher has the

added benefit of being only 3.5% ABV.

FRENCH PRESS If you like French wine and care about the environment, then check out Gérard Bertrand. The Languedoc winery is strongly invested in sustainability practices, and many of its wines are organic, biodynamic and/or bee-friendly. Working with CAB (Conversion en Agriculture Biologique), the winery is committed to making the jump from traditional to organic viticulture, which will help preserve the biodiversity of its vineyards and produce terroir-driven wines.

Walkerville Electric Haze Juicy IPA LCBO 32046, 473 mL, $3.95 Living up to its name, this hazy, New England–style IPA delivers bright citrus flavours with balanced bitterness.

Change Cabernet Sauvignon Organic LCBO 30349, $15.95

32 FOOD & DRINK SPRING 2023

A SIP WITH ZIP.

MEXICAN INSPIRED LIGHT LAGER 4% ABV

PLEASE ENJOY RESPONSIBLY.

SAVE

SAVE

LCBO #303800 $27.95 reg price

SAVE

$29.95 reg price

LCBO #284539

$19.95 reg price

LCBO #341743

Playing Favourites Fresh seasonal ingredients bring new life to spring’s most beloved dishes, from matzo ball soup and hot cross buns to a classic chicken. TWISTS BY ERIC VELLEND | PHOTOGRAPHY BY MAYA VISNYEI

HAM & CHEESE HOTCROSS BUNS WITH CHIVE BUTTER P. 109

FOOD STYLING BY CHRISTOPHER ST. ONGE; PROP STYLING BY ANDREA MCCRINDLE

FOOD & DRINK SPRING 2023 39

PLAYING FAVOURITES

Smashed Eggs on Toast with Asparagus,

Anchovies & Mint This open-faced breakfast sandwich stars creamy soft boiled eggs, sweet asparagus and salty anchovies on mayo slathered toasts. It can be a bit awkward to eat with your hands, so serve it with a knife and fork. Adapted from a recipe by Ari Laing (wellseasonedstudio.com). If you’re looking for a good mayo recipe, try our Hand-Blender Mayo at LCBO.com. 1 bunch asparagus, about 1 lb (455 g), woody ends trimmed 6 large eggs 1 tbsp (15 mL) unsalted butter Salt and freshly ground pepper 4 thick slices sourdough bread, cut from centre of loaf 2 cloves garlic, peeled, halved lengthwise 1/4 cup (60 mL) mayonnaise, preferably homemade 10 anchovy fillets, drained, halved lengthwise Chili flakes and chopped mint to garnish 1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Boil asparagus until tender, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a bowl of ice water to cool. Drain and dry on a clean kitchen towel. (Cooked asparagus can be covered and refrigerated up to 1 day.) 2. Bring 1 inch (2.5 cm) of water to a boil in a medium saucepan. Carefully lower eggs into water with a slotted spoon. Cover and reduce heat to maintain a vigorous simmer. Cook 6 1/2 minutes. Carefully transfer eggs to a bowl of ice water. Cool 2 minutes then remove from water and peel. Set aside. 3. Heat butter in a large frying pan over medium heat. Add asparagus, salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally,

to plates. Smear each toast with 1 tbsp (15 mL) mayo. Halve eggs lengthwise. Place 3 halves on each toast and smash with a fork. Season with salt. Top each toast with enough asparagus to cover, 4 to 6 spears. (Save rest for another use.) Divide anchovies between toasts. Sprinkle with chili flakes and mint. Serve immediately.

until just heated through, 2 to 3 minutes.

[ WHAT TO SERVE ] Château des Charmes Brut Sparkling VQA VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 224766, $25.95 The herbal and brioche notes of this wine will highlight the dish’s elements. A fine mousse

4. While asparagus is warming, set an oven rack on top shelf. Preheat broiler to high. 5. Place bread slices on a foil-lined heavy-duty baking tray. Broil on top shelf until nicely browned, 1 to 2 minutes per side. Rub each toast with cut side of garlic. Transfer

of bubbles and laser-like acidity cleanse the palate.

Serves 4

40 FOOD & DRINK SPRING 2023

FROM PINOT TO PARIS

Earn bonus points at the LCBO to put towards your next adventure.

Scan or visit aircanada.com/join to sign up for free. Plus, earn more bonus points with over 200 of your favourite retailers.

®Aeroplan is a registered trademark of Aeroplan Inc., used under licence. ®The Air Canada maple leaf logo is a registered trademark of Air Canada, used under licence. Starbucks and the Starbucks logos are registered trademarks of Starbucks Corporation.

PLAYING FAVOURITES

Matzo Ball Soup with Spring Vegetables

In this bright spin on a beloved soup, pillowy-soft matzo balls are served in a clear chicken broth with barely cooked green vegetables. Vegetarians can use vegetable oil instead of duck fat and vegetable stock in place of chicken. MATZO BALLS 4 large eggs, at room temperature 2 tbsp (30 mL) melted duck fat or vegetable oil 1 tsp (5 mL) baking powder 1/2 tsp (2 mL) salt 1/4 cup (60 mL) chicken stock 1 cup (250 mL) matzo meal 6 green onions (white parts only), sliced on bias, 1/2 inch (1 cm) thick 5 oz (140 g) sugar snap peas, strings removed, cut into 1/2 -inch (1-cm) pieces 4 cups (1 L) loosely packed baby spinach Tarragon leaves to garnish 1. For the matzo balls, whisk eggs, duck fat or oil, baking powder, salt and stock in a medium mixing bowl until smooth. With a spatula, fold in matzo meal until combined. Cover and refrigerate 1 hour. 2. Bring a large pot of lightly salted water to a boil. With oiled hands, form a heaping tablespoon of matzo mixture into a ball—it should be about 1 1/2 inches (4 cm) in diameter. Place on a baking sheet. Repeat until mixture is used up. Carefully add balls one at a time to boiling water. Cover and adjust heat to maintain vigorous simmer. Cook until matzo balls are soft SOUP 8 cups (2 L) chicken stock, preferably homemade Salt to taste

and cooked through, about 35 minutes. (Cut into one to see.) Gently transfer with a slotted spoon to a baking sheet. (Matzo balls can be cooled, covered and refrigerated for up to 3 days.) 3. For the soup, bring stock to a boil in a large pot. Season with salt. (If the matzo balls were

refrigerated, microwave, partially covered, for 1 minute.) Add matzo balls, green onions, sugar snap peas and spinach. Simmer until vegetables are tender and matzo balls are hot, 2 to 3 minutes. Ladle into warm bowls. Garnish with tarragon.

[ WHAT TO SERVE ] Whitehaven Sauvignon Blanc LCBO 308288, $19.95 Vibrant acidity balances the flavours of the matzo balls. Sugar snap peas will complement the green notes of the wine.

Serves 6 to 8

42 FOOD & DRINK SPRING 2023

Follow your passion…

Find employment opportunities in a growing city or work from home in an affordable community.

Spend more time exploring the outdoors minutes from your home to keep you healthy and happy.

Durham Street patios

Ramsey Lake

Kivi Park

HitRefreshSudbury.ca | Come see what Greater Sudbury has to offer.

CELEBRATE THE EVERYDAY MOMENTS Give them the gift of choice with LCBO gift cards that are just right for spring occasions. Visit lcbo.com/giftshop for all your gift-giving needs.

Available at LCBO.com and select stores while quantities last.

37081

One and Done Smart and savoury dishes for two—with wine for two as well— to save you time and money on winter’s last cozy nights in. DINNER FOR TWO

BY MIRANDA KEYES WITH ERIC VELLEND | PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROB FIOCCA

ONE-POT MOROCCAN LAMB STEW P. 109

A lamb dish is a great excuse to crack a big red. Now in half bottles, Trapiche Reserve Malbec (LCBO 25960, 375 mL, $9.95) definitely falls in this category. The Argentinian wine can stand up to the robust Moroccan spices, and its dark-fruit flavours marry well with the fresh mint.

FOOD STYLING BY CHRISTOPHER ST. ONGE; PROP STYLING BY CATHERINE MACFADYEN

FOOD & DRINK SPRING 2023 53

ONE AND DONE

One-Pan Seafood Pot Pie This comforting pot pie can be made with any kind of white fleshed fish—rockfish, haddock or cod are all excellent choices, as their mild flavour works well with the creamy sauce. Use any kind of ovensafe pan that is at least 10 inches (25 cm) in diameter and has a depth of at least 2 inches (5 cm). 1 sheet prerolled butter puff pastry (225 g, from a 450-g pkg) 2 tbsp (30 mL) olive oil 1 tbsp (15 mL) unsalted butter 1 small onion, finely diced 1/2 fennel bulb, trimmed, finely diced 1/4 cup (60 mL) all-purpose flour 2 cups (500 mL) whole milk 1 cup + 2 tbsp (250 mL + 30 mL) heavy cream, divided Salt to taste 2 tsp (10 mL) Dijon mustard 1/3 cup (80 mL) frozen peas 1/4 cup (60 mL) roughly chopped parsley 1 lb (455 g) skinless, boneless white-fleshed fish, cut into 1-inch (2.5-cm) pieces 1/4 lb (115 g) medium (30/40 count) scallops 2. Place puff pastry on a sheet of parchment paper and roll out the pastry sheet so it stretches to an 11-inch (28-cm) square. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use. 3. Heat oil and butter in a 10-inch (25-cm) round and 2-inch (5-cm) deep cast-iron skillet or ovenproof frying pan over medium-high heat. Add onion and fennel. Cook, stirring occasionally, until slightly golden, 5 to 7 minutes. 4. Stir in flour. Cook 1 minute. Slowly and carefully pour in milk and 1 cup (250 mL) cream, mixing constantly, until smooth. Season 1. Preheat oven to 375°F (191°C). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

If you’re serving a rich pot pie

brimming with fish, scallops and peas, you can’t go wrong with California Chardonnay. Josh Cellars Chardonnay (LCBO 25266, 375 mL, $10.95) has enough acidity to balance the sauce, and its buttery flavours are in sync with the flaky crust.

pan. Carefully press pastry to adhere to pan rim, using oven mitts if pan is too hot. Cut a slit in middle of pastry with a paring knife. Brush top of pastry with remaining cream. 6. Place in preheated oven and bake until pie is bubbling, and pastry is golden brown, 30 to 35 minutes.

with salt. Raise heat to high. When it starts to boil, reduce heat to maintain a gentle simmer. Cook, stirring occasionally, until thickened, about 3 minutes. Turn off heat and stir in Dijon, peas, parsley, fish and scallops. 5. Place pan onto prepared baking sheet. Brush rim of pan with a little of remaining 2 tbsp (30 mL) cream. Top with puff pastry, letting edges drape over

Serves 2 to 3

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ROKU GIN

ALIVE WITH THE SEASONS OF JAPAN

LCBO #636209

Roku™ Gin, 43% Alc./Vol. ©2023 Beam Suntory Import Co., Chicago, IL.

ONE AND DONE

One-Pot Lemony Pasta with Spring Greens Pasta and verdant spring veggies are cooked in the same pot then tossed in a sensational sauce of butter, pasta water, lemon juice and Parmigiano Reggiano. This dish comes together quickly, so have all your ingredients prepped and ready to go before starting to cook. If you like it extra zingy, serve with lemon wedges on the side. Salt to taste 1/2 lb (225 g) tortiglioni pasta 2 cups (500 mL) baby spinach, packed 2 cups (500 mL) thinly sliced lacinato kale (stems removed), loosely packed 1/2 bunch asparagus, tough ends trimmed, cut into 1-inch (2.5-cm) pieces 3 tbsp (45 mL) olive oil 3 tbsp (45 mL) butter 4 cloves garlic, minced 1 tbsp (15 mL) lemon zest 1 tsp (5 mL) chili flakes, plus more for serving 3 tbsp (45 mL) lemon juice 1/2 cup (125 mL) finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus more for serving 1. Bring a medium pot of salted water to a boil. (Don’t make it too salty, as you will cook with some of the pasta water.) Cook pasta for 5 minutes, stirring once or twice. Add spinach, kale and asparagus. Cook 1 minute more. Reserve 3/4 cup (175 mL) pasta water then drain pasta and greens in a colander. 2. Place pot back on stove over medium heat. Add olive oil and butter. Once butter has melted, add garlic. Cook until golden brown, about 2 minutes. Add 1/2 cup (125 mL) pasta water, lemon zest, chili flakes, pasta and greens. Stir well to combine.

The creaminess you get from one-pot pasta demands a high-acid white to cut through the starch, and the zesty Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc (VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 160085, 375 mL, $10.95) delivers. It’s a natural with spring vegetables, and the citrusy profile flatters the lemony flavours of the dish.

Increase heat to high and cook until sauce has thickened slightly and coats noodles, 1 to 2 minutes. Add extra pasta water 1 tbsp (15 mL) at a time as needed to create a smooth sauce.

3. Remove pasta from heat. Stir in lemon juice and cheese. Taste for salt. Serve immediately with extra chili flakes and cheese.

Serves 2 to 3

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NEW!

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CIPES

Spring 2023

Spring comes all of a sudden in Ontario and soon gives way to summer—so seize the moment and welcome its arrival in the company of friends and family. We are here to inspire! Often little more than an afterthought, microgreens finally play a larger role than usual in a quartet of great springtime recipes. On the sweeter side, we have a rainbow of pastel coloured desserts that taste every bit as gorgeous as they look. And for cocktail lovers, our Drinks Editor delves into the latest innovative trends (and short-lived fads) currently shaking up the world of mixology. Three ways to help you raise the bar with your springtime entertaining and ring in the new season in style.

PHOTOGRAPH BY MAYA VISNYEI; FOOD STYLING BY CHRISTOPHER ST. ONGE; PROP STYLING BY ANDREA MCCRINDLE

FOOD & DRINK SPRING 2023 63

SKY-HIGH BLUEBERRY BUTTERMILK CAKE P. 111

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WHEN IT’S TIME FOR A GRAND FINALE TO A SPRING CELEBRATION , THESE ENTICING FRUIT FLAVOURED DESSERTS TASTE AS GOOD AS THEY LOOK IN DELICATE PASTEL SHADES.

FOOD STYLING BY CHRISTOPHER ST. ONGE; PROP STYLING BY ANDREA MCCRINDLE

FOOD & DRINK SPRING 2023 65

RASPBERRY SUGAR COOKIE BARS P. 113

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For a little extra fun, try icing your cookie bars with a fruity ombré swirl (p. 113)!

Mustard Spicy and zesty, these unique greens are almost wasabi or horseradish like in flavour. Add to curry and stew or for a fun twist, use in place of mustard in a sandwich.

Arugula Earthy and peppery, arugula microgreens pack big flavour punch. Add to quiches, smoothies or use in a sandwich or as a pizza topper.

AFTER A LONG WINTER, THE FIRST APPEARANCE OF MICROGREENS IS A WELCOME SIGN OF WARMER DAYS AHEAD. THE TENDER YOUNG SHOOTS ARE PACKED WITH GOODNESS AND CRUNCH—PERFECT FOR DIALING UP FRESHNESS IN SOME FAVOURITE DISHES.

BY VICTORIA WALSH | PHOTOGRAPHY BY MAYA VISNYEI

Radish These brightly coloured

pink/purple stemmed greens add crunch and spicy zip to everything from egg salad sandwiches to tacos.

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Blends Incorporate a range of flavours, colours and

Broccoli These mildly bitter sweet greens add a

textures by adding a mix of microgreens to your cooking, including soups and stir-fries. Here, you’ll find an Asian Blend of mizuna, pak-choi, kohlrabi, and Tokyo bekana.

subtle and unique touch when used as a garnish or incorporated into salad or quiche.

Be sure to wash your microgreens thoroughly before using *

Microgreens are available at local grocery stores, and you’ll find even more options at gourmet and health food stores. Each of these reputable grower’s websites offer Where to Buy lists with lots of options. › Goodleaffarms.com › Cookstowngreens.com › Paradisefields.ca *

FOOD & DRINK SPRING 2023 71

FOOD STYLING BY CHRISTOPHER ST. ONGE; PROP STYLING BY ANDREA MCCRINDLE

DOUBLE-MUSTARD MONTE CRISTO SANDWICHES P. 106

NEW-STYLE BROCCOLI & BEEF STIR-FRY P. 107

FOOD & DRINK SPRING 2023 73

BY CHARLENE ROOKE PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROB FIOCCA

FORECAST Separating directional, long-term influences from flash-in-the-pan fads is the business of trendspotters and influencers—especially in the social-media age, when a cocktail or flavour craze can flare up and die out in days (or just hours!) online. We sifted through dozens of innovative

TROPICAL Island-inspired drinks are even easier to make using flavour-packed base spirits—or skip the stirring and shaking altogether and open a ready-mixed cocktail.

products, fresh flavour profiles and bar-inspired home mixology equipment and techniques to come up with trends with lasting impact to try now, or tuck away for later—plus some fun fads to experiment with this spring!

› Coppa Cocktails Strawberry Daiquiri LCBO 31554, $24.95 › Langs Pineapple Rum LCBO 30324, 700 mL, $39.95 › Twin Fin Coconut & Lychee Rum LCBO 30591, 700 mL, $42.95

FOOD STYLING BY CHRISTOPHER ST. ONGE; PROP STYLING BY CATHERINE MACFADYEN

SPRING DRINKS

These flavours are here to stay, with fresh bottlings and innovative variations coming to stores and LCBO.com this spring. FLAVOUR FAVOURITES

CITRUS Sour is an essential note in balanced cocktails, and these new gins give a burst of citrus flavour without adding any fresh fruit or juice.

BERRY Cocktails and spirits get a blush of berry notes— in the case of a pink tequila from Maroon 5 frontman Adam Levine, it’s through aging in a red-wine barrel!

› Gordon’s Sunset Orange Gin LCBO 30713, $31.95 › Bombay Citron Pressé LCBO 30729, $33.95

› Calirosa Rosa Blanco Tequila LCBO 31979, $89.95 › Beefeater Peach & Raspberry LCBO 30720, $32.45 › Dillon’s Strawberry Negroni LCBO 31469, 125 mL, $5.95

FOOD & DRINK SPRING 2023 77

DIRTY TEQUILAMARTINI Trends to Watch

P. 110

TRINIDAD SOUR

In the ongoing classic-cocktail renaissance, the Dirty Martini made a recent comeback, inspiring other “dirty” drinks , including the Dirty Shirley (a spiked Shirley Temple) and the non-alcoholic Dirty Soda (cola with coconut and lime). An enduring bartender trick is the so-called spirit swap (think: an Old Fashioned with rum instead of whisky), and here blanco or reposado tequila, or even smoky mezcal, bring on-trend agave spirits to meet the Martini trend. Brine and seaweed embrace the craze for all things umami .

P. 110

FUN FADS

Unique Packaging Cocktails in sipping pouches have been a recent popular fad. And even Glenlivet created a “capsule collection” of Scotch in edible pods! Try: › Mike’s Hard Frozen Blue Freeze Pouch (LCBO 24394, 296 mL, $3.50) › Palm Bay Frozen Dragonfruit Watermelon Pouch (LCBO 24393, 296 mL, $3.50)

TikTok Drinks Whether it’s fluffy dalgona coffee,

a spiked Hot Chocolate Bomb or so-called lettuce tea, non-alcoholic drinks and cocktails cooked up by TikTok influencers tend to blaze across social media … and die out rather quickly. Goodbye and good riddance, “healthy cola” (balsamic vinegar and flavoured sparkling water) and the like!

78 FOOD & DRINK SPRING 2023

FUN FADS

Candy-inspired Drinks Influential foodie website Food52.com started a craze for Jelly Bean Mimosas last spring, and in Asia drinks inspired by creamy White Rabbit candy have been all the rage.

Wild Garnishes Gold, pearl and gem “dust” (cocktail

emporium.com, popaball.co.uk), popping candy or lip-stinging Electricdust

(electricdust.shop), and even powdered ranch dressing or popcorn seasonings are being sprinkled

onto cocktails or rimming glasses.

PIZZA COCKTAIL P. 111

The continuing highball craze taught us to lengthen tall, refreshing drinks with soda water, tonic or “sonic” (a bit of both). Now, we’re also recommending shortening long drinks as a fresh trend: take a favourite tall drink like the Bloody Mary, and make it a Martini-style short drink. We were inspired by trendsetting bars like Double Chicken Please in New York,

which serves trendy food-inspired drinks , to infuse pizza flavours into this cocktail. To achieve bar-quality results, we made like a pro bartender and raided the kitchen for flavour-boosting ingredients , from dried mushrooms to nutritional yeast.

FOOD & DRINK SPRING 2023 81

and ot he r gr e a t coc k t a i l s IRISH GODFATHER

IRISH GODFATHER

IRISH ITALIAN OLD FASHIONED

1 PART DISARONNO ORIGINALE

2 PARTS THE BUSKER • 1 PART DISARONNO ORIGINALE

1 PART THE BUSKER • ORANGE TWIST

1 DASH AROMATIC BITTERS

new

Available in selected LCBO stores

T H E W O R L D ’ S F A V O R I T E I T A L I A N L I Q U E U R

P A I R E D W I T H A N E X C E P T I O N A L I R I S H W H I S K E Y

DRINK RESPONSIBLY. Imported by DISARONNO INTERNATIONAL LLC, SOMERSET NJ 08873. ©2022.

Fries with That? With just a few savvy tips, tricks and techniques, you’ll be making french fries rivalling any at your favourite local bistro. 101

BY MICHAEL ELLIOTT | PHOTOGRAPHY BY JAMES TSE

C an you make restaurant quality french fries at home? After many rounds of testing and tasting, the answer is a resounding yes. The secret is blanching twice, once in salted water and then again in oil, before a final fry. It’s a little labour-intensive, but the effort yields a perfect yin-yang of crisp and fluffy every time.

FOOD STYLING BY LINDSAY GUSCOTT; PROP STYLING BY ANDREA MCCRINDLE

FOOD & DRINK SPRING 2023 83

FRIES WITH THAT?

Going Deep If you make a lot of french fries or other crispy treats, then a deep-fryer is a worthy investment. Otherwise, a makeshift fryer is easy to pull together.

PRO This large-capacity machine can handle a little more than 2 lbs (905 g) of food at a time. The basket makes draining easy, and a timer helps keep eyes on your fries. Cuisinart Professional Deep Fryer, $179.99, cuisinart.ca

* SAFETY TIP Never put wet items—utensils, food etc.—into hot oil.

Perfect Fries Our three-ingredient, three-stage recipe yields perfect results every time. For a crispy exterior and fluffy interior, russets are the ideal potato, though Yukon Golds will work in a pinch.

MACGYVER A large heavy-bottomed pot, preferably cast iron, is stable and retains heat well. Attach a candy thermometer and you’re in business.

fries can be cooled, covered and stored at room temperature for 2 hours or refrigerated up to 1 day.)

2. Drain potatoes and place in a medium pot with 12 cups (3 L) cold water and salt over high heat. If you plan on using a flavoured salt at the end, reduce salt here to 1 tsp (5 mL). When it comes to a boil, reduce heat to maintain a gentle simmer. Cook until fries can just be pierced with a paring knife but are still firm, 4 to 5 minutes. (Don’t worry if they’re a little under- or over-cooked.) Using a spider strainer, transfer to a baking sheet. Cool 20 minutes.

3. Fill a large Dutch oven or heavy-bottomed pot half full with oil. Attach a candy thermometer. (Or fill a deep-fryer as per instructions.) Heat to 325°F (163°C). 4. Blot fries with paper towel to remove excess moisture. Working in two batches, carefully add potatoes to oil and fry until they form a slight crust but remain blonde, 4 to 5 minutes, adjusting heat to maintain temperature. Transfer to a baking sheet lined with paper towel. (Blanched

4 large russet potatoes, about 3 lbs (1.36 kg), peeled 2 tsp (10 mL) salt Neutral vegetable oil for deep-frying, preferably peanut 1. Working one at a time, cut a thin strip off one side of the potato so that it sits firmly on your cutting board. Cut potato into 5/8 -inch (1.5-cm) slices then cut slices into 5/8 -inch (1.5-cm) wide fries. Place cut fries in a bowl of cold water to cover as you work.

5. Heat oil to 350°F (177°C).

6. Working in two batches, cook fries until brown and crispy, about 5 minutes. Transfer with a spider strainer or slotted spoon to a baking sheet lined with paper towel. Serve immediately.

SPIDER, MAN Like the slotted spoon’s big brother, a spider strainer has a shallow wire-mesh basket and a long handle. It’s an essential tool for deep-frying.

Serves 2 to 4

84 FOOD & DRINK SPRING 2023

FRIES WITH THAT?

OIL CHANGE When it comes to frying, you need oil or fat that won’t break down at a high heat. Here are the two best options for fries. PEANUT OIL It costs a bit more than other basic vegetable oils, but it has a high smoke point and is less prone to developing off flavours in the fryer. BEEF TALLOW Available at select butcher shops, beef fat is also stable at high temperatures and it gives the potatoes a rich flavour. Depending on what you’re cooking, oil can generally be saved and reused for three rounds of deep-frying. While the oil is still warm, pass it through a sieve lined with a coffee filter into an airtight storage container, let cool, seal and freeze up to 3 months. Once it gets dark or sludgy, or develops any rancid odours, discard. HOW TO SAVE LEFTOVER OIL

1

3

WHAT TO SERVE Sparkling wine is an easy pairing for fries. Its acidity and bubbles will cut the salty richness. Prefer a still wine? Try a crisp white like Pinot Grigio or Riesling. Inherent acidity and fruit refresh the palate and match almost any condiment. To mitigate the heat in spicy sauces or seasonings, choose sweeter wines. If you prefer red, go for fruity, low-tannin varieties like Pinot Noir or Gamay, which stand up to heartier fries like poutine. Beer lovers know that beer and fries are perfect together. A hoppy American style IPA would be ideal. The beer's maltiness complements the potato’s sweetness, while the carbonation and hops cleanse the palate.

2

Top Spuds Without question, the best french fries are made from floury, baking-style potatoes, and in Canada that means russets ( 1 ). They’re high in starch and low in water, which translates to perfect fries. Yukon Golds ( 2 ) also work—they make sweet frites, but will be a little less crispy. And if you frequent farmers’ markets, look for varieties such as Maris Piper, King Edward and Rooster ( 3 ), which all make first-class fries.

ACCESSORIZE YOUR FRIES Looking for something beyond ketchup and vinegar to jazz up your fries? Here are a few fun alternatives to try.

SHICHIMI TOGARASHI This fragrant seven spice blend from Japan is terrific on fries, especially with spicy to-mayo. Available at Japanese and Korean grocers.

TRUFFLE SALT Potatoes and truffles are a match made in heaven. Gild the lily by also adding freshly grated Parm. Available at specialty grocers.

TAJÍN Salty, spicy and sour, this popular Mexican fruit seasoning is revelatory on fries. Available at Latin American grocers.

SPICY TO-MAYO Can’t decide between ketchup and mayo? How about both! Mix 1 cup (250 mL) mayo with 3 tbsp (45 mL) ketchup and a glug of hot sauce.

BUTTER CHICKEN Warm bottled butter chicken sauce then garnish with chopped red onion and cilantro. Bring cheese curds to the party for a South Asian poutine.

CURRYWURST For a quick version of this beloved German sauce, heat 1 cup (250mL) ketchup with 1 tbsp (15 mL) curry powder and a good squeeze of lime.

ILLUSTRATION BY DAVID SPARSHOTT

86 FOOD & DRINK SPRING 2023

An estate-grownwine has its own special

All of ourMcManis wines are estate grown

in several preferred appellations, allowing each

character. It’s a true statement about the way

varietal its full expression. Raise a glass, and

the vines transformsoil, water, and sunlight

find out exactly where we’re coming from.

into something uniquely of that place.

ES TAT E GROWN

APPEL L AT I ON SPEC I F I C

•

Authentically Cab

A Vintages“Essential”always available at the LCBO.

Please enjoy responsibly. Represented in Ontario by THE VINE: thevineagency.ca

F A M I L Y V I N E Y A R D S ®

COCKTAILS Ladies’ Choice

What do women drink? Everything, from scotch to rosé. Forget “girly drinks,” say these makers, who share their journeys. We raise a glass to them with cocktails crafted in their honour.

BY CHRISTINE SISMONDO | PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROB FIOCCA

THE HANKY PANKY P. 114 Invented in London over

100 years ago by Ada “Coley” Coleman, the first woman head bartender at The Savoy Hotel’s American Bar, the Hanky Panky (gin, vermouth and Fernet Branca) should challenge any and all old ideas about what a girly drink is. Why? Because it’s sturdy, bitter and lean, as Mallory O’Meara points out in her recent book, Girly Drinks , which features an entire chapter on this legendary female bartender—and her most famous drink.

better than men at identifying all the distinct notes in, say, a complex whisky. So, we say it’s time to retire that antiquated term and just let people drink what they want—no matter their gender. There’s certainly no shortage of women in the wine and spirits industry, like the ones profiled here, who’ve been doing exactly that for a long time.

Everyone knows a “girly drink” when they see it. Maybe it’s pink, in a petite glass, or garnished with an umbrella, but, above all else, it’s easy drinking, sweet and delicious. What makes it “girly” though? There’s no research to suggest women are predisposed to sweeter tastes and, in fact, the science of taste has proven that women are actually

FOOD STYLING BY CHRISTOPHER ST. ONGE; PROP STYLING BY CATHERINE MACFADYEN

FOOD & DRINK SPRING 2023 89

LADIES’ CHOICE

JESSICA BLAINE SMITH, TORONTO Straight Shooter

LADY MARAVILLA P. 114

photographer with an eye for detail, Smith says that, if you look at pictures featuring spirit- forward or whisky-based drinks, the hands holding those glasses are almost always a man’s— something she wants to help change. “I’m in the process of photo graphing a cocktail book and I’m taking a lot of photos of men holding stem ware, just to prove that, you know, it’s just a drink.”

Jessica Blaine Smith, drinks

photographer and co-creator of the online community Bartender Atlas (bartenderatlas. com), will never forget the time she ordered a Sazerac at a hotel bar in Sydney, Australia. “I remember the bartender said, ‘Oh, I don’t think you want that,’” she says. “Then he told me I’d prefer a Long Island Iced Tea, a drink I don’t think I’ve ever ordered in my life.” As a

PHOTOGRAPHY BY (JESSICA) COURTESY OF JESSICA BLAINE SMITH

1947

1934

1927

HOW IT STARTED: ONTARIO WOMEN IN THE BEVERAGE

The introduction of cocktail bars in 1947, in which men and women can drink together, marks the beginning of the end of segregated drinking in Ontario.

Public outcry over men and women drinking beer together in beverage rooms forces the province to split up bars into separate areas—one for “Ladies and Escorts” and another for men.

After the prohibition of alcohol in Ontario is repealed in 1927, women have trouble finding work as brewers or distillers, but manage to establish

ALCOHOL INDUSTRY

a monopoly over one area of production—the bottling line.

90 FOOD & DRINK SPRING 2023

Choose Same-Day Pickup at LCBO.com

Getting ready for a special occasion? Stock up easily by shopping online or on the LCBO app with Same-Day Pickup. Place your order, and we’ll have it ready at an express checkout counter within 2 hours. Service available at 370+ LCBO locations.

35960

LADIES’ CHOICE

Bartender’s Handshake

JENNIFER FERREIRA, HAMILTON

Handshake”), a lot of people still assume her partner is the driving force behind the bar’s dynamic drinks list. “There’s this friendly competi tion between all the bartenders in Hamilton and often, when I have a cocktail in it, the guys will ask Kyle, ‘Oh, did you help her with this one?’” she says. “I’ve had a lot of moments like that over the years.”

Six years ago, when Jennifer Ferreira opened Bar Sazerac in Hamilton with her husband, Kyle, it represented a serious upgrade to the city’s craft cocktail scene. But, even though Ferreira is a veteran of the industry and loves the occa sional intensely bitter Ferrari drink (a 50-50 mix

THE CONTENDER P. 114

of Campari and Fernet-Branca that’s known as a “Bartender’s

PHOTOGRAPHY BY (JENNIFER) COURTESY OF JUAN LASSO

1975

1966

1965

After Mary Leese moves west, Alina Budzinski (right) takes over at the Royal York, where she tends bar for 42 years, making her one of the longest-working woman bartenders in Ontario.

The Royal York hires its first woman bartender, Mary Leese, to run a small bar on the second floor of the historic Toronto hotel.

The provincial government amends the Liquor Licence Act to allow women to serve alcohol in taverns for the first time since before Prohibition.

92 FOOD & DRINK SPRING 2023

WHY NOT PEACH

YOUR GIN

Recipes With wine, beer and spirit pairings by the LCBO’s Customer Engagement Group.

approximately 12-inch (30 cm) circular or rectangular pizza dough base. 8. If baking on a pizza stone, use the bottom of a baking sheet or a large cutting board lined with parchment paper as a base. Alternatively, if baking on a baking sheet, line it with parchment paper. Place dough over parchment. Spoon sauce overtop. Using the base of a spoon, swirl to spread almost to the edges, leaving a little uncovered for the crust. Brush edges with olive oil, if you like. Tear cheese and scatter overtop. Sprinkle all over with kosher salt. Top with torn prosciutto. 9. If baking directly on the parchment-lined baking sheet, bake in centre of preheated oven until golden on the bottom, about 8 minutes. If baking on the pizza stone, slide prepared pizza with parchment onto pizza stone. Make sure there is no parchment overhanging the stone. Or carefully remove parchment altogether. Bake or grill until golden on the bottom, approximately 8 to 10 minutes. Keep a careful eye on the pizza, using a spatula to gently lift the base and check for doneness. Carefully remove to a cutting board. Let stand until cool enough to handle, 2 to 5 minutes. Sprinkle with microgreens.

Small Wonders From page 70 NEXT-LEVEL MARGHERITA PIZZA Homemade pizza is incredibly satisfying. If making your own pizza is not something you’ve dabbled in before, know that the results can be deliciously rewarding. Using the specified ingredients is key. If you don’t have them in your cupboard, they can be found relatively inex pensively at most grocery stores. For a fresh take, finish your pizza with a generous sprinkle of nutty and peppery arugula microgreens in place of the usual basil. Or if you can find the more elusive micro basil greens, use those. DOUGH 1 1/2 cups (375 mL) lukewarm water 1 tsp (5 mL) granulated sugar 1 1/2 tsp (7 mL) active dry yeast 1 tbsp (15 mL) olive oil, plus more for oiling bowl 1 3/4 cups (425 mL) bread flour 1 1/2 cups (375 mL) 00 flour 4 tsp (20 mL) kosher salt (not table salt) 1 to 3 tbsp (15 to 45 mL) flour, for dusting PIZZA SAUCE 1 cup (250 mL) drained, canned whole San Marzano or Pomodoro tomatoes 1 tsp (5 mL) dried oregano, preferably Italian 1 tsp (5 mL) fresh thyme leaves (optional) 2 tbsp (30 mL) olive oil 1 tsp (5 mL) salt Freshly ground black pepper TOPPINGS 2 pkgs (each 125 g) buffalo milk Fior di latte or buffalo mozzarella cheese, drained Pinches of kosher salt, freshly ground pepper and chili flakes (optional)

4. Place each dough ball in its own oiled bowl. Turn to coat evenly. Lightly oil a piece of parchment or waxed paper and place over the bowl. Cover with a damp cloth. Leave the dough in a warm place until it doubles in size, about 4 hours. Use right away or refrigerate in sealed plastic bag (with interior oiled) for up to 2 days or freeze up to 1 month. 5. Meanwhile, whirl tomatoes in (cleaned) food processor along with oregano, thyme, oil, salt and pepper until smooth. If making ahead, sauce will keep well, covered and refrigerated, for 3 to 4 days. 6. When you’re ready to prepare pizzas, place a pizza stone in your oven or on the grill. Preheat oven to 500°F (260°C) or 550°F (288°C), if your oven allows. Or preheat your grill to 600°F (315°C). 7. Working with one dough ball at a time, remove to a lightly floured surface. Using your fingertips, press and gently stretch into an

3 to 4 prosciutto slices, torn (optional) 2 pkgs (each 50 g) micro arugula greens

1. Pour water into a large bowl or measuring cup. Water should be between 100° and 110°F (38° and 43°C). It should feel a little warmer than body temperature. Stir in sugar, then sprinkle with yeast. Let stand until mixture is foamy on top, from 5 to 10 minutes, then stir in oil. 2. Meanwhile, whirl flours and salt in a food processor fitted with a metal blade. While whirling, slowly pour in yeast-oil mixture. Scrape in any remaining mixture. Continue whirling until it all begins to form a ball. 3. Turn out dough onto a lightly floured surface, then dust your hands with flour. Using the base of your palm, knead for a few minutes, rotating the dough a quarter turn after each knead until it forms a fairly smooth ball. Divide dough in half and form two fairly smooth balls.

10. Repeat with remaining ingredients for a second pizza.

Makes 2 pizzas

[ WHAT TO SERVE ] Peroni Nastro Azzurro

LCBO 143891, 500 mL, $3.80 Lively hoppy notes in the beer counter the creamy mozzarella cheese, the arugula’s bitterness and the herbal flavours. Lightly toasted malt matches the pizza crust.

FOOD & DRINK SPRING 2023 105

PLEASE ENJOY FOOD & DRINK RESPONSIBLY

WASTE NOT Over the years, we have given many excellent tips on reducing waste at the bar. Here are some highlights: • Portion leftover wine and beer into small containers or ice-cube trays and freeze to use later in soups, stews and cocktail syrups. • Zested oranges can be juiced for Mimosas, peeled and sliced for salads or segmented for a dessert garnish. • From strawberry tops to pineapple peels, fruit scraps can be simmered in water for 10 minutes and used as a base for iced tea. • Wilted herbs are perfectly good for muddling—they still have a lot of flavour to give! Try it in our Gin & Jam Smash (recipe below). Traditionally a muddled mix of spirit, sugar and mint, the Smash cocktail is being reimagined with fruit and is very flexible. This recipe shakes up the concept by using jam in place of sugar and fruit—it’s an excellent way to use up the last dregs in the jar. And for muddling purposes, wilted herbs are perfectly fine—they still have lots of fragrance and flavour to offer. 2 oz gin 1 tbsp (15 mL) Ontario-made jam, such as rhubarb, strawberry or blueberry 4 lemon wedges, divided 6 mint or basil leaves plus a sprig for garnish 1 to 2 oz soda water, chilled 1. Place gin, jam, 3 lemon wedges and mint in a cocktail shaker. Muddle. Fill three quarters full with ice. Shake until ice-cold, about 12 seconds. Strain into a chilled rocks glass filled with ice. Top with soda to taste. Garnish with mint sprig and remaining lemon wedge. GIN & JAM SMASH BY VICTORIA WALSH

5 tbsp (75 mL) extra virgin olive oil, divided Pinch chili flakes Freshly ground pepper to taste 3 tbsp (45 mL) pine nuts 2 tsp (10 mL) honey 1/4 cup (60 mL) mint leaves, torn if large 1. Halve Broccolini lengthwise. Finely grate 2 tsp (10 mL) zest from 1 lemon into a small bowl. Set aside. Halve zested lemon crosswise and poke out seeds. Slice second lemon into 8 rounds and remove seeds. 2. Place Broccolini, lemon halves and slices, shallots, 1/4 cup (60 mL) olives and brine in a large, sealable plastic bag. Squeeze out air, seal and refrigerate 2 hours. 4. Reserve 1 tsp (5 mL) brine from bag then drain Broccolini mixture in a colander. Shake off excess brine. Transfer to a parchment-lined baking sheet. Drizzle with 2 tbsp (30 mL) olive oil and sprinkle with chili flakes and pepper. Toss well. Roast on middle shelf, stirring occasionally, until everything is starting to char and Broccolini tips are crispy, 25 to 35 minutes. When Broccolini is almost finished roasting, place pine nuts in a small baking dish and bake until deep golden brown, about 5 minutes. Remove Broccolini and pine nuts from oven. 5. Set aside lemon halves to cool slightly. When cool enough to handle, squeeze roasted lemon juice into a small bowl. Whisk in reserved brine, remaining 3 tbsp (45 mL) olive oil and honey. Season with pepper. 6. Transfer Broccolini mixture to a serving dish. Sprinkle with remaining 1/4 cup (60 mL) olives. Drizzle with dressing. Sprinkle with pine nuts, reserved lemon zest and mint. 3. Preheat oven to 425°F (218°C).

Inside Scoop From page 21

BANANA PEEL OAT LOAF This delectable, waste-free twist on classic banana bread may become your new go-to recipe. People will never guess it contains whole bananas, peels and all! Ripe bananas have peels that will yield a smoother purée, which will deliver more banana flavour and ensure an extra-moist loaf. 1/3 cup (80 mL) coconut oil, plus more for greasing pan 1 1/2 cups (375 mL) all-purpose flour, sifted 1 1/2 tsp (7 mL) baking powder 1 tsp (5 mL) baking soda 1/4 tsp (1 mL) salt 2 large, very ripe organic bananas with peels, washed, dried 1/3 cup (80 mL) vanilla yogurt (not Greek) 1/3 cup (80 mL) packed dark brown sugar 2 large eggs 1/4 cup + 2 tbsp (60 mL + 30 mL) rolled oats, divided 3 tbsp (45 mL) almond butter, or any runny natural nut butter 2 tbsp (30 mL) pure maple syrup 1. Preheat oven to 350°F (177°C). Grease a 5 x 9-inch (12 x 23-cm) loaf pan with coconut oil. 2. In a medium bowl, combine flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt. Set aside. 3. Trim and discard ends of bananas. Slice 1 banana (with peel still on) into 1/4 -inch (5-mm) thick rounds. Carefully remove peel from second banana, keeping banana intact. Place banana rounds and banana peel with yogurt in a blender on high speed. Purée until smooth. Set aside. 4. Place coconut oil and brown sugar in bowl of a stand mixer fit ted with paddle attachment. (You can also use a mixing bowl with an electric hand mixer.) On medium speed, beat until light and fluffy, 1 to 2 minutes. Add eggs one

at a time, until combined. Stop machine and remove bowl. With a silicone spatula, stir in banana mixture and 1/4 cup (60 mL) oats until combined. Stir in flour mix ture until totally incorporated. 5. Pour batter in prepared pan and spread evenly. Top batter with nut butter. Using a butter knife or skewer, swirl nut butter evenly across top. Sprinkle remaining 2 tbsp (30 mL) oats overtop. 6. Carefully slice remaining banana in half lengthwise and arrange on top of batter, cut sides up. Drizzle with maple syrup. Bake on middle rack until a toothpick inserted in centre comes out clean, 45 to 50 minutes. ROASTED OLIVE-BRINED BROCCOLINI WITH OLIVES, LEMON & MINT Did you know you can brine vegetables? This recipe uses olive brine to season and flavour Broccolini before roasting it for a robust salad with lemons, mint and pine nuts. Hailing from Sicily, Castelvetrano olives are meaty, buttery, and sweeter than basic green olives. You can find them at Italian food shops or at Loblaws under their PC Black Label. 2 bunches Broccolini, about 14 oz (395 g) total, 1/2 inch (1 cm) trimmed off ends 2 small lemons 4 shallots, peeled, halved 1/2 cup (125 mL) Castelvetrano olives, smashed, pitted, divided 3/4 cup (175 mL) Castelvetrano olive brine Serves 6 to 8

Serves 4

Makes 1 cocktail

108 FOOD & DRINK SPRING 2023

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