LCBO Food & Drink Spring 2017

SPRING 2017

Superb quality. Distinctive character. Exceptional value. The finely crafted wines in our Essentials Collection make exploring the world of wine easy. View the entire collection of 130 proven favourites, handpicked by our experts. Always available. vintages.com/essentials

Creamy Cali C�ard

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Shop online for Vintages Essentials and more at lcbo.com

Great with roast pork BERINGER NAPA VALLEY CHARDONNAY California 84988 750 mL

Seductive Spaniard

$22.95

Full-bodied & Rich

Great with meaty lasagna CONCHA Y TORO MARQUES DE CASA CONCHA CABERNET SAUVIGNON

Maipo Valley, Chile 337238 750 mL Full-bodied & Firm

$21.95

Great with grilled chicken SANTA MARGHERITA PINOT GRIGIO Alto Adige/Trentino, Italy 106450 750 mL $18.95 Light & Crisp

Award Winning

Great with juicy ribs MONASTERIO DE LAS VIÑAS

GRAN RESERVA Cariñena, Spain 82024 750 mL

$17.95

Medium-bodied & Fruity

Customer Fave

Prices subject to change without notice. Available in Vintages locations at select LCBO stores.

ONTARIO SUPERSTARS Say hello to spring sunshine with wines from our own backyard. With over 300 local VQAwines to choose from, you’ll always find a perfect match for your spring menu.

CAVE SPRING RIESLING VQA 234583 750 mL $15.95 OFF DRY & FRUITY D 16 g/L

FLAT ROCK PINOT NOIR VQA 1545 750 mL $20.20 MEDIUM BODIED & FRUITY XD 2 g/L A Vintages Essential*

PELEE ISLAND BACO NOIR RESERVE VQA 414508 750 mL $14.95 FULL BODIED & SMOOTH D 8 g/L

HIP FISH & CHIPS Scan the code for this recipe or visit lcbo.recipes/7354

ROASTED VEAL CHOPS WITH KING MUSHROOM SAUCE

Scan the code for this recipe or visit lcbo.recipes/7353

Featured products available at select LCBO stores. Prices subject to change without notice. *VintagesEssentialsCollection isalwaysavailable atmanyLCBO locations.Visitvintages.com/essentials

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

FEATURES

54 APRIL FOOL’S FUN By Amy Rosen

On Saturday April 1, trick your guests with one or more of these delicious trompe l’oeil dishes—they fool the eye but please the palate. 62 SPRINGING FOR PASTA By Christopher St. Onge Redolent with fresh ingredients—and matched with new wines at the LCBO—these pasta dishes offer a flavourful taste of the season. 68 TOOLS OF THE TRADE By Eric Vellend The equipment you need for making great cocktails is just a click away—plus recipes that show off what each tool can do. 74 A TASTE OF CUBA By Lucy Waverman & Olivia Simpson Fabulous—and trendy—Cuban food and cocktails conjure the warmth and rhythms of island life yet are easy to recreate in your own kitchen. ON THE COVER Asparagus from “The New Garnish,” recipes on page 82. Photography by Darren Kemper

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FOOD & DRI NK SPRING 2017 5

TABLE OF CONTENTS

DEPARTMENTS FOOD

FLAVOURS TAKING STALK By Lucy Waverman

31

Far more than a final flourish for a Bloody Caesar, celery— leaf and all—adds surprisingly great flavour to a whole range of dishes.

BASICS POWER BARS By Eshun Mott

47

Energy bars offer convenience at a price, but these healthy homemade versions offer standout flavour—and they’re easy on the pocketbook!

TRENDS THE NEW GARNISH By Victoria Walsh

81

31

Garnishes have morphed into an important way of adding flavour and texture to restaurant dishes—and at home they offer a simple way to change things up.

ENTERTAINING MIDDAY SOCIAL By Marilyn Bentz-Crowley

95

IN EVERY ISSUE

For a weekend lunch, this menu eases you from the warming spices of winter into the fresh flavours of spring—to delicious effect.

EDITOR’S NOTES

10

A SPLASH OF RYE Canadian whisky gives traditional Easter ham a modern twist. WHAT’S NEW A selection of products from around the world available at the LCBO and Vintages. MUST-HAVES Things we love for entertaining and around the house. TRENDSPOTTING High in nutrients, low in calories and packed with flavour, seaweed has everyone seeing green.

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DRINK

17

SEASONAL A CASE FOR SPRING  By James Chatto An expertly curated mix of wine, beer and spirits, offering something for any springtime occasion.

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WINE ROSÉ OUTLOOK  By James Chatto

89

RECIPE INDEX

No longer relegated to summertime, rosé has garnered legions of fans who enjoy it year-round. But how to decide which one to buy?

123

SOURCE RESOURCE

123

FIVE QUESTIONS WITH… Jan Campbell-Luxton of Vineland’s De La Terre bakery creates beautiful, healthful loaves, connecting bread lovers with local farmers.

124

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IT’S ALWAYS BEEN FUN TO BE

A LITTLE OFF COURSE.

WHITNEY BAY BY PORT ROYAL GOLF COURSE

GoToBermuda.ca

Publication Director & SVP .........Nancy Cardinal Sales, Marketing & Insights

VP Marketing ..................................Kerri Dawson Editor .................................................Jody Dunn Art Directors ...................................Karen Lim, Cathy Cicchini Senior Editor ...................................James Chatto Food Editor .......................................Lucy Waverman Contributing Editors ....................Charlene Rooke, Kat Tancock Publication Coordinator ............Leslie Virdo Graphic Designers .........................Wincy Law, Dominique Patafio, Pat Turbach Production Manager ...................Mark Greene Production Coordinator .............Judy Haverkort Publication Assistant .................Piper MacFadyen Production Assistant ...................Everton Smith Food Stylists ....................................Eshun Mott, Christopher St. Onge Prop Stylists ....................................Catherine MacFadyen, Andrea McCrindle Contributors ...................................Julia Aitken, Marilyn Bentz-Crowley, Cynthia David, Anna Kohn, Signe Langford, Ann Lough, Brenda Morrison, Eshun Mott, Amy Rosen, Olivia Simpson, Christopher St. Onge, Eric Vellend, Victoria Walsh Publisher ..........................................Wayne Leek For general inquiries about Food & Drink magazine or information about LCBO products and policy please contact helloLCBO online at hellolcbo.com, or call toll-free 1•800•668•5226 or 416•365•5900. TTY Only: 416•864•6898 or 1•800•361•3291. For advertising in Food & Drink magazine, please contact Keystone Media, 416•224•1500 or e-mail foodanddrink@keystonemedia.ca. All advertiser applications are subject to the terms and conditions of the LCBO’s advertising agreement. Food & Drink is published six times a year by the Liquor Control Board of Ontario. Volume 24, Number 4. Food & Drink is printed on paper that contains 10 percent post-consumer fibre. Food & Drink is recyclable in communities participating in magazine recycling programs.

COMING NEXT ISSUE SANGRIA NOVA

New variations on a classic TAKE IT OUTSIDE! Recipes for a garden planting party COOL CHARDONNAY Celebrating Niagara’s global i4c festival

JUST A TASTE, PLEASE Delectable small-bite desserts

Publication Mail Agreement No. 40064521 Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Food & Drink , 55 Lake Shore Boulevard East, Toronto, ON, M5E 1A4 ISSN 1195-5988

WATCH FOR THE EAR LY S UMME R I S S UE OF

AVA I LABLE MAY 3

Not all of the wines, spirits and beers mentioned in Food & Drink will be available at all LCBO stores.

PRICES ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE WITHOUT NOTICE. Cette publication est également disponible en français.

8  FOOD & DRI NK SPRING 2017

2017

The spectacular, pomegranate red blooms of the Fire Light® Hydrangea will outperform even the toughest competition. Visit us at provenwinners-shrubs.com.

EDITOR’S NOTES

It’s time once again to refresh our palettes with the first tastes of Spring! For us, that means tucking away those tried-and-true comfort food recipes and the heavier wines and beers that saw us through fall and winter and revisiting favourite seasonal ingredients as they reappear in grocery stores and farmer’s mar- kets. Also, and more adventurously, it means trying flavours and ingre- dients that are new.    “Springing for Pasta” on page 62 combines those two ideas brilliantly, with Christopher St. Onge provid- ing lightened-up fresh-tasting pasta recipes that we have paired with wines that are new to the LCBO. And we’ve done something similar with cocktails too (page 68)—sharing the trendiest cocktail tools (most of them classics) that we think are worthy of adding to your home bar and putting each one to good use with a unique drink recipe.    Although rosé wines are great sippers year-round, they really come into their own when warmer weather returns. That’s when a whole new selection shows up in our stores. But which one to choose? We asked our Senior Editor, James Chatto, to pro- vide a primer on how you can work out

the style of wine inside a bottle of rosé before you buy it. Check out “Rosé Outlook” on page 89 and let the ex- periments begin! Speaking of experi- menting, don’t miss James’s mixed case of products to try for spring (page 39); we’re sure you will discover a new favourite amongst his picks.    Also in this issue, you’ll find a fabulous Cuban menu with cocktails paired to each course (page 74); it’s a unique dinner-party idea and a great way to introduce friends to new flavours. On page 31 we’ve taken the humble celery stalk and trans- formed it into four dishes that will ensure you never turn up your nose at celery again. There’s also a weekend lunch menu starting on page 95 that bridges the gap between winter and spring with warming spices used in fresh dishes.    And finally, just for the fun of it (and because April Fool’s Day falls on a Saturday this year), we’ve developed a menu full of dishes that trick the eye—where what you see may not be what you get! It starts on page 54 and whether you make the whole dinner or just add one recipe as a course of your own menu, we hope you’ll give them a try.    Have a great Spring!

PORTRAIT BY JAMES TSE

FOOD & DRI NK SPRING

SPRING COLLECTION 2017 bring spring home

Shop our latest collection online or at one of our 20+ stores in Ontario.

We're extroverted...

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THE $17 SOLUTION

The resourceful buyers at Vintages remove the guesswork from your entertaining equation with a rich red and a crisp white whose provenance, quality and character make them superb values at this price. vintages.com/17

Featured products may not be available in all V intages locations. Visit vintages.com for availability and store locations. Prices subject to change.

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CONTINENTAL SHIFT This dense, rich Malbec hails from a family winery started in Bordeaux back in 1897. Now producing wine in Argentina too, they were the first to recognize the potential for winegrowing in Mendoza’s Alta Uco Valley. PIEDRA NEGRA MALBEC RESERVA 2015 Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina (François Lurton) Savoury, dense and complex with ripe dark fruit and herbs. Perfect with grilled steak. Full-bodied & Firm 483909 (XD) 750 mL 1 JUST $17 93 points (jamessuckling.com) New at Vintages FRESH IDEA Refreshing and aromatic, this Pinot Grigio is made in the hilly wine country around Italy’s Lake Garda by a producer known for crafting exceptional wines of exceptional value. ZENATO PINOT GRIGIO 2015 IGT Delle Venezie, Italy Fresh, vibrant and crisp, with zippy citrus and green apple flavours. Try it with pan-fried lake fish. Light & Crisp 37648 (D) 750 mL 1 JUST $17

ADVERTISING FEATURE

Limited Time Offer: SAVE 25 ¢ per can *

*Available at the participating retailers from April 1 – 22, 2017 or while supplies last.

A SPLASH OF RYE BY SIGNE LANGFORD  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY JAMES TSE

THE PROOF IS IN THE FLAVOUR WHEN YOU COOK WITH CANADIAN WHISKY.

EASTER HAM WITH ROASTED VEGGIES, APPLES & PECANS IN A SPICY RYE-&- MAPLE GLAZE recipe on page 114

Rye. Rye whisky. Canadian whisky. Canadian rye whisky… It’s complicated. But, of that big, broad, beautiful group that encompasses whiskey, whisky, Scotch and bourbon, there is only a handful of distillers making a 100-percent rye mash whisky (or pure “rye”); most ryes are closer to 51-percent rye mash. Canadian Club 100% Rye ( LCBO 390583, $27.95) is a fine example of pure rye. It’s complex, mellow, well-balanced and rich with aromas and flavours of vanilla, butterscotch and warm spice, sweet and woody with a big, chewy texture. This is a special spirit, and perfect—if a tad extravagant—to cook with! And, now that the bottle is open, might we suggest a very special pre-Easter-dinner cocktail? Canadian Club 100% rye with a splash of maple syrup is delightful in a tumbler over ice. In this recipe— along with some spicy sriracha—the combination adds a layer of sweetness and a modern, cosmopolitan twist to the classic Easter ham.

FOOD & DRI NK SPRING 2017 15

WHAT’S NEW BY JULIA AITKEN  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY VINCE NOGUCHI

A WORLD OF NEW PRODUCTS AT THE LCBO AND VINTAGES.

NIAGARA BOUNTY G. Marquis The Red Line Cabernet Sauvignon VQA  LCBO 473090, $13.95 The Red Line is the G. Marquis winery’s collection of 100-percent Ontario VQA wines that typify Niagara’s cool-climate viticulture. This, a classic Cabernet Sau- vignon, offers flavours of ripe blackberry with notes of cedar and chewy tannins. Lively acidity makes it a great food wine. Pair with spicy back ribs, pulled-pork sandwiches, grilled kebabs or piri-piri chicken.

CRISP SIPPER Casas del Bosque Reserva Sauvignon Blanc VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 974717, $14.95 A good backbone of minerality and zesty acid- ity make this new addition to the VINTAGES ESSENTIALS line a natural with grilled fish or seasonal salads, but it’s also the perfect aperitif. The cool-climate Sauvignon Blanc from Chile’s Casablanca Valley shows typical aromas of key lime, cucumber and sea salt with ginger, citrus and pepper in the mouth.

HARBINGER OF SPRING Capo Capo Aperitivo Rosso LCBO 493221, $24.95

Perfectly pink rhubarb conjures thoughts of spring and here it teams with bitter orange and alpine herbs to give stunning colour and sweet-tart flavour to a new Italian aperitivo. Produced by a family- run business in northern Italy that worked with a group of Toronto entrepreneurs to perfect the recipe, it’s a fresh Canadian twist on the Italian classic aperitivo.

FOOD & DRI NK SPRING 2017 17

WHAT ’ S NEW

CITRUS SENSATION

This all-natural-flavoured vodka from Austin, Texas, is named for the state’s oldest outdoor swimming pool, built way back in 1915. Real red grapefruit juice adds zip and rosy colour. Serve with ice and a splash of club soda for a dee-lish spring cocktail. Deep Eddy Ruby Red Vodka LCBO 467621, $27.95

TEMPRANILLO FANTASTICO Anciano 7 Year Gran Reserva Tempranillo Valdepeñas DO LCBO 464214, $12.95 Spanish wines represent one of the fastest-growing categories in LCBO stores. The price of this 100-percent Tempranillo is un- beatable, especially for a Gran Reserva, the best-quality designa- tion of wine in Spain. Its smooth vanilla notes, rich black cherry fruit and hints of leather and spice make it perfect alongside roast lamb, a rich vegetarian dish or with a mature cheese.

LOCAL LAGER

Lagershed Lighter LCBO 483198, 6 pk, $13.95

Ed Madronich, the Ed of Shawn & Ed Brewing Co., is also a co-founder of Niagara winery Flat Rock Cellars. He teamed up with Shawn Till to open the brewery last year. Their Lagershed Lighter is medium-bodied, clean and fla- vourful and, like the company’s other suds, made from just four ingredients: water, malted barley, hops and yeast.

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Apartments from $508/mth Townhomes from $650/mth Homes from $720/mth

Book Your Discovery Tour One Free Night at the Hampton Inn Elliot Lake and enjoy a tour of the city and our properties. (Second night $30.00 + taxes) 1.800.461.4663 RetireElliotLake.com

WHAT ’ S NEW

FIRST GRILL MUST-HAVE Domaine le Grand Retour Plan de Dieu Côtes du Rhône-Villages VINTAGES 224592, $14.95 Fire up the grill for spring’s first barbecue and reach for this great-value French red: it goes with juicy steaks, seared pork chops, gourmet burgers, grilled lamb… You get the idea. Full-bodied with smoky notes of cedar, the wine is rich with jammy red fruit, licorice and spice. Away from the grill, try it with aged cheese or roast duck.

CROWD- PLEASING WHITE Pepperwood Grove Pinot Grigio LCBO 483305, $12.95 California-based Pepperwood Grove sources grapes from the world’s best wine-growing areas to create its popular wines. This new release is a bright, zesty white that’s ideal with a spring supper of crab cakes, chicken pasta alfredo or baked brie. Look for aromas of dried fig and lemon zest followed by tangy apple flavours and tropical notes of guava.

SAY “CIAO” TO GIN Malfy Gin LCBO 484204, $34.95

In its chic bottle stoppered with real oak, this Italian gin will add style to any bar. Distilled with fresh lemons from Sicily and the Amalfi coast, along with juniper and five other botanicals, it’s heady with citrus aromas and flavours. Add pizzazz to gin cocktails (think an all-Italian Negroni or Martini), or simply pour over ice.

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BY BRENDA MORRISON  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY VINCE NOGUCHI MUST -HAVES

BRIGHTEN UP YOUR KITCHEN—AND YOUR ENTERTAINING— WITH THESE EXCEPTIONAL FINDS.

NO PHONE ZONE Imagine making it through dinner without text notifications and ringing phones! Start a family tradition of time-outs from technol- ogy, aided by a Mobilhome ($130), designed with pockets to hold up to four cell phones or handheld devices and a tablet. Choose from five colour combinations, at Brika (Toronto, brika.com).

LOUNGE STYLE With its own walnut coaster, the City Bar Olive Stand ($64) from LSA International offers elevated style, pair- ing perfectly with Martinis. Available at Hopson Grace (Toronto, 416•926•1120, hopsongrace.com), it’s equally outstanding for chocolate

truffles, dinner mints or even Easter candies.

GAMES NIGHT This selection of classic board games is great for a little friendly competition amongst friends! The handsome collection from Wild & Wolf includes backgammon ($27.95), a chess and checkers set ($37.95), dominoes ($22.95) and more. Available at Rolo (Toronto, 877•765•6438, rolostore.com).

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SOUND ADVICE With the resurgent popularity of vinyl records there’s a new demand for high-quality analogue turntables. Our music consultant Ann Lough recommends the Pro-Ject Debut Carbon DC (from $599, dustcover included). This turntable sets new standards with its simple, beautiful design (available in seven high-gloss colours), an Ortofon 2M Red cartridge included ($139.00 value), a carbon fibre tonearm engineered to minimize resonance, and much, much more. For retail locations, visit project-audio.ca.

SMALL WONDER Single? Just the two of you? Ideal for a small chicken or roasting vegetables, All-Clad’s Small Roaster Combo ($325, rack included) is made of premium stainless-steel with stay-cool handles. Plus, it’s stovetop safe so you can use the pan for making gravy. Avail- able at Hudson’s Bay Company (select stores) and thebay.com.

DISH DUTY Can’t stand finding a soggy dish cloth on the kitchen counter? The Eva Solo Dish Cloth and Stand ($50) comes with two microfibre cloths, each with a shape-retaining foam core. After use, rest the cloth on the stainless-steel base, allowing it to stand and air dry. Available in white, sand and grey at Bergo Designs (Toronto, 416•861•1821, bergo.ca).

OIL SUPPLY For storing olive oil, copper is the gold standard—keeping out light to prevent spoilage. We love the look of this Copper Oil Cruet ($175 for 0.5L and $195 for 1L) that’s also lined with non-reactive tin to maintain freshness. An everyday essen- tial, it’s handcrafted in Italy and available at Bergo Designs (Toronto, 416•861•1821, bergo.ca).

FOOD & DRI NK SPRING 2017 23

REFRESHING TO PERFECTION. Discover refreshing new ways to drink Jim Beam ¨ ®

®

MAKE HISTORY ®

MAKE HISTORY ®

Jim Beam® Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey, 40% Alc./Vol. ©2016 James B. Beam Distilling Co., Clermont, KY

TREND SPOTTING BY ERIC VELLEND  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY VINCE NOGUCHI

WHAT’S ON OUR RADAR FROM THE WORLD OF FOOD AND DRINK.

High in nutrients, low in calories and packed with flavour, seaweed is being touted as the new kale. Here’s why everyone is seeing green.

FOOD & DRI NK SPRING 2017 25

TREND SPOTT ING

chip replacement The toasted, seasoned seaweed sheets known as gim (or kim nori ) have become wildly popular in recent years. There is another seaweed snack from South Korea that, quite frankly, blows them out of the water: seaweed chips or crisps. In these, squares of laver or kelp are baked or fried in a crackling bat- ter of glutinous rice. They’re salty, sweet and crunchy, and it’s impos- sible to eat just one… bag. Brands to look out for are Chomperz from SeaSnax and the baked seaweed crisps from Bibigo.

GIN UP After successfully infusing vodka with chanterelle mushrooms, the front of house team at Actinolite restaurant in Toronto decided to further experiment with savoury spirits. They struck gold with the combi- nation of Broker’s Premium London Dry Gin ( LCBO 605162,

$27.95) and dulse, a reddish purple seaweed from Canada’s east coast. The recipe is simple: fill a glass jar with dried dulse, cover with gin, and infuse for two weeks; fine strain and refrigerate indefinitely. The result is a salty, briny spirit that is so evocative of the sea that you can practi- cally hear gulls cry. General Manager Merrin McHugh was so smitten with their new gin that she created homemade tonic syrup to complement it in a uniquely refreshing G&T.

A Discovery to Savour

More than a century ago, Kikunae Ikeda, a chemistry professor at the Imperial University of Tokyo, set out to learn why dashi, the Japanese cook- ing stock, tastes so good. In 1908, he discovered that glutamate was respon- sible and it came from kombu, a type of kelp used to infuse the broth. Since this lip-smacking, savoury experience did not fall under sweet, sour, salty or bitter, he called it umami, which roughly translates to “delicious taste.” Today, chefs use the “fifth taste” as a secret weapon, boosting dishes with umami-rich ingredients such as bacon, soy sauce and Parmesan cheese.

FOOD & DRI NK SPRING

RUFFINO MODUS TOSCANA IGT

93 POINTS

“ Firm and silky red with blueberry, walnut and black tea undertones. Medium body, fine tannins and a fresh and clean finish. Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot blend. ”

2013 VINTAGE •James Suckling•

– JAMES SUCKLING, July 2016

Please enjoy responsibly.

Now Available at LCBO Vintages

TREND SPOTT ING

SEA plus Sea veggies can be found in many guises inside the Japanese pantry. Here are three seaweed-based seasonings to give dinner a boost.

AONORI A deep green powder of dried laver, aonori is an essential condiment for okonomiyaki , Japan’s beloved savoury pancake. It’s also terrific sprinkled onto popcorn or scrambled eggs or folded into mayonnaise to dress an unforget- table salmon burger. Aonori can be challenging to find outside of Japanese food shops, though you could make your own by whizzing nori in a food processor. Ground kelp, which is available at most natural food shops, is a worthy substitute. FURIKAKE Furikake is a family of coarse seasoning blends that contain everything from sesame seeds to smoke-dried bonito fish. They are traditionally sprinkled on rice and soups, though today you’ll see furikake on poke, the trendy Hawaiian tuna salad. JFC is a popular brand and its wakame chazuke , a simple mix of dried seaweed and rice balls, adds a crispy texture and wallop of umami to raw fish dishes. One thing to keep in mind: furikake is quite salty, so use a light hand when seasoning the dish. SHICHIMI TOGARASHI Translating to“seven-flavour chili pepper,” shichimi (sometimes called nanami ) togarashi is a spicy blend of hot chili flakes, dried orange peel, white and black sesame seeds, ginger, seaweed and sansho, which is a milder version of Sichuan pepper. It’s ubiquitous at ramen joints and is delicious shaken over cucumber salads, tofu or Asian noodles. S&B is the most recognizable brand, though Loblaws also carries shichimi under its PC Black Label.

NORI OF MY LIFE Nori—pressed, dried laver seaweed—has a wide range of uses beyond the sushi counter. Here’s how to get the most out of these tasty sheets at home. ➤ Cut into squares and use them to scoop up salmon or tuna tartare—or ceviche. ➤ Slice into thin strips to garnish fried rice, Asian noodles or seafood soup. ➤ Use it to cloak tofu or fish like Christopher St. Onge’s succulent Nori-Wrapped Salmon in Miso Broth (recipe at foodanddrink.ca). On the Japanese island of Okinawa, residents over 65 have the highest life expectancy in the world. They eat a lot of seaweed. Here’s why you should too: ➤ Low in calories, seaweed is dense with nutrients including calcium, potassium and vitamins A and C. It’s also nature’s best source of iodine, which is essen- tial for healthy thyroid function and metabolism. ➤ It’s loaded with soluble fibre, which com- bines with water to form a gel that slows down the digestive process. This helps to lower glucose levels and cholesterol. ➤ Sodium alginate in seaweed is a power- ful detoxifier of the digestive tract, and a recent study from McGill University showed that seaweed absorbs cadmium and lead from the body. health insurance

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HANDCRAFTED in

TEXAS

Available at your local LCBO

1.14L – Now Available

DISTILLED & BOTTLED IN AUSTIN, TX

DISTILLED & BOTTLED BY FIFTH GENERATION INC. 40% ALC./VOL. © 2017 TITOÕS HANDMADE VODKA.

ORDER UP SPRING AT LCBO.COM

Spring is blooming at LCBO.com. You’ll find all sorts of fresh ideas for the season ahead at LCBO.com. Delicious recipes, entertaining inspiration and special offers, plus countless shopping options to browse. Just take your pick and click to purchase. It’s that easy.

1

LCBO

FOOD  FLAVOURS

TAKING

STALK

SEARED TUNA WITH CELERY-LEAF PESTO recipe on page 115

BY LUCY WAVERMAN  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY JAMES TSE

MORE THAN JUST A CRUNCHY GARNISH FOR A BLOODY CAESAR, CELERY—LEAF AND ALL—MAKES FOR A SURPRISINGLY TASTY INGREDIENT IN A WHOLE RANGE OF DISHES.

FOOD & DRI NK SPRING 2017 31

FLAVOURS  TAKING STALK

Celery is often associated with dieting. Hungrily munching on celery sticks is sup­ posed to fill you up. But celery is much more versatile than its bad diet image would have you believe. Using it all from base to tip adds depth of flavour and a burst of freshness to either raw or cooked food. Chopped into tabbouleh it gives the grain salad a whole new flavour profile that is addictive. Celery and apple make a beautiful pale green soup—garnished with walnuts for a riff on Waldorf salad. Braised, it becomes a soft and sensuous side dish. Celery leaf pesto gives a bite of bitterness that is the perfect contrast to meaty tuna. One caveat: don’t confuse celery with celeriac, or celery root—celery root in fact is not the root of celery—it is a different vege­ table altogether, although considered a cousin.

COOK WITH LEAVES Celery leaves have a slightly bitter taste. They are used like a herb in cooking. They make a lovely pesto, and they flavour everything from soups to grain dishes. They are an attractive garnish if chilled in ice water for an hour in the refrigerator. The only thing I avoid using them in is stock as they can impart their bitterness into the stock.

KEEP IT FRESH Knowing what to do with a whole head of celery can be a challenge when many recipes call for only a few stalks. Keep it crisp by wrapping it tightly in aluminum foil and refrigerating it. The foil keeps the celery’s moisture in without speeding up ripening like plastic wrap would do. Store celery like this for up to a month, using the stalks as you need them. COOK WITH STALK Celery stalks are in fact part of the plant’s leaf, but the long crunchy ribs have a greater range of uses than the leafy tips. Chopped with onion and carrot they become part of a traditional mirepoix, which is a base for soups and stews. Try braising them for an unusual and delicious side dish. Snack on raw stalks with a creamy dip or add them to salads for some good crunch.

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FLAVOURS  TAKING STALK

CELERY GRATIN recipe on page 114

FLAVOURS  TAKING STALK

TABBOULEH

½ cup (125 mL) roughly chopped mint ½ cup (125 mL) roughly chopped celery leaves 3 tbsp (45 mL) olive oil 1 tsp (5 mL) grated lemon rind ¼ tsp (1 mL) allspice ¼ tsp (1 mL) cinnamon 1 Cover bulgur with boiling water and lemon juice. Let sit for 5 to 7 minutes. Drain any excess water. In a large mixing bowl, stir hot bulgur with diced tomatoes. Season with salt and pepper. Cool. 2 Add celery, cucumber and green onion to bulgur mixture. Sprinkle over parsley, mint and

Tabbouleh is not a bulgur-based salad. It is a herb and vegetable salad held together by the bulgur. The herb is usually parsley but in this version I have mixed parsley with mint and celery leaves to create a really fresh flavour. Refrigerates well for up to five days. ½ cup (125 mL) fine bulgur wheat 1 tbsp (15 mL) lemon juice 1 cup (250 mL) diced tomatoes Salt and freshly ground pepper 2 cups (500 mL) finely diced celery 2 cups (500 mL) diced English cucumber 1 cup (250 mL) chopped green onion 2 cups (500 mL) roughly chopped Italian parsley

celery leaves. Toss with oil, lemon rind, allspice and cinnamon. Season with salt and pepper. Taste, adding more lemon juice if needed. Serves 6

WHAT TO SERVE  Small Talk Faux Pas Riesling Sauvignon Blanc VQA LCBO 343384, $12.95 Errazuriz Max Reserva Sauvignon Blanc LCBO 273342, $16.45

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OFFICIAL SPONSOROF THE TORONTORAPTORS.

“TORONTORAPTORS”ANDASSOCIATEDWORDMARKSANDLOGOSARETRADEMARKS,DESIGNSANDOTHERFORMSOF INTELLECTUALPROPERTY OF NBA PROPERTIES, INC. AND THE TORONTO RAPTORS AND ARE USED UNDER LICENSE © 2017 NBA PROPERTIES, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

FLAVOURS  TAKING STALK

As celery is low in calories, this soup is a perfect diet food. Use a tart apple. If you prefer not to use candied walnuts, buy some pickled walnuts to use as the garnish. 2 tbsp (30 mL) butter 1 cup (250 mL) chopped onion ½ cup (125 mL) ¼ inch (5 mm) diced red potatoes 6 large stalks celery, sliced in ½ inch (1 cm) pieces, about 7 cups (1.75 L) 1 large apple such as Pink Lady, unpeeled, chopped, CELERY & APPLE SOUP WITH CANDIED WALNUTS

about 1½ cups (375 mL) 4 cups (1 L) chicken stock CANDIED WALNUTS 1 tbsp (15 mL) vegetable or walnut oil 1 cup (250 mL) walnut halves 3 tbsp (45 mL) sugar Pinch salt Pinch hot smoked paprika ¼ cup (60 mL) yogurt 1 tsp (5 mL) lemon juice or to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper GARNISH Candied walnuts and finely chopped apple

1 Heat butter in a soup pot over medium heat. Add on- ion and potatoes and cook until slightly softened, about 3 minutes. Add celery and apple and cook for 5 more minutes. Add stock and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer for 15 minutes or until vegetables are tender. 2 For candiedwalnuts, heat oil inmediumnonstick skil- let on medium heat. Add walnuts and sauté for 2 min- utes. Add sugar, salt and paprika and cook until walnuts are coated with sugar and are pale gold in colour, about 2 minutes. Quickly remove nuts to parchment-lined sheet. Cool. Break up as needed. Makes about 1 cup (250 mL). 3 Let soup cool for a few minutes, then blend with an immersion blender or in blender until silky smooth. Stir in yogurt and lemon juice. Season with salt and pepper to taste. 4 Serve soup garnished with a few candied walnuts and chopped apple. Serves 4

WHAT TO SERVE Mouton Cadet Bordeaux White AOC LCBO 2527, $14.15 Tio Pepe Extra Dry Fino LCBO 231829, $17.95

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THE KEY TO CRAFTING AWARD WINNING WINES?

THE SECRET IS IN THE CELLAR

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Please enjoy responsibly.

Worth talking about.

Notes of apple and pear. A hint of toasty oak and California sun. It’s the pleasant surprise that has everyone talking.

What do you say?

AVA I L A B L E I N V I N TAG E S AT T H E LC B O

R E P R E S E N T E D I N ON TA R I O BY T H E V I N E • T H E V I N E AG E N CY.CA

P L E A S E E N J OY R E S P ON S I B LY

DRINK SEASONAL

a case for SPRING OUR RESIDENT EXPERT’S TOP PICKS FOR A CLEVERLY

BY JAMES CHATTO PHOTOGRAPHY BY DARREN KEMPER CURATED MIX OF WINE, BEER AND SPIRITS, IDEAL FOR SEASONAL OCCASIONS. This season is famous for being an ideal time to clean up, so why not give your wine rack and bar a fresh start as well. It’s time to restock with the coming season in mind, making sure you have all your bases cov- ered whatever the occasion, with everything handy from casual house wines and beers to unexpected treats you can bring out at the end of a dinner party. Most of our choices are new finds at the LCBO though one or two have been around for a while, waiting to be discov- ered. A mixed case indeed!

FOOD & DRI NK SPRING

SEASONAL  A CASE FOR SPRING

A SPRING COCKTAIL PARTY Rendle’s Original gin LCBO 398859, $39.30 Smooth and delicately floral with an ethereal texture, this pretty pink gin shines as a G&T, a stirred Martini or straight up over ice. The colour comes from hibiscus, part of a private recipe devised by an English officer in the In- dian army, recently recreated by his son. There’s cardamom, juniper and lime in the aroma but in delightfully subtle ways.

EASTER SUNDAY CELEBRATION 13th Street Cuvée Rosé Brut VQA  VINTAGES 147504, $27.95

Perfect for a festive family occasion, here’s a very classy dry bubbly from Niagara’s 13 th Street winery made in the traditional method with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Pop the cork for strawberry, apple and mineral notes that stick around for a long finish. As a food wine, it’s fabulous with salmon and sushi.

SPRING CLEANING reward

Yalumba Y Series Viognier LCBO 470062, $13.95 When the housework’s done, treat yourself to a glass of this powerful yet elegant beauty from Australia’s top Viognier producer. The wine’s lush, silky weight is as seductive as its ex- otic aromatics of honeysuckle and apricots, while the flavour mingles both with hints of gal- ingale and lime leaf. Gorgeous- ly tangy and intense on its own, it also works really well with spicy Thai cuisine.

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A D V E R T I S I N G F E A T U R E

CHOCOLATE CINNAMON BUNS

METHOD

INGREDIENTS

4. When dough has risen, roll into a 14-in (35 cm) square. Evenly cover with chocolate mixture, leaving ½-in (1 cm) border. Firmly press into dough. Starting with side closest to you, roll up dough. Pinch dough to seal seams. Using a serrated knife, trim away uneven ends. Slice roll into 15 buns. Place cut-side down in dish. Lay a damp towel over dish. Let rise 45 minutes. 5. Bake in 350°F (180°C) oven until buns are golden, 25 to 30 minutes. Let cool 15 minutes. Best served warm. Makes 15 buns.

1 tsp (5 mL) granulated sugar 8 g pkg traditional dry yeast,

1. In a small bowl, dissolve 1 tsp (5 mL) sugar in ½ cup (125 mL) warm water. Sprinkle with yeast. Let stand until foamy, 10 minutes. Melt butter and set aside. Meanwhile, in another bowl, whisk milk with egg and vanilla. In a large bowl, whisk flour with ½ cup (125 mL) sugar, the cinnamon and salt. 2. When yeast is foamy, whisk into egg mixture with butter. Stir into flour mixture. Turn onto floured surface. Knead to form a smooth dough, 8 minutes. Place in a greased bowl. Turn to coat. Lay damp cloth over bowl. Let rise in a warm place until doubled, about 2 hours. 3. Meanwhile, butter a 9x13-in (3 L) baking dish. Break chocolate into pieces and place in food processor with sugar. Whirl until finely ground, about 45 seconds . Mixture may have tiny pieces in it. Pour in butter. Pulse until even in texture, about 15 pulses.

about 1 tbsp (15 mL) 3 tbsp (45 mL) butter ⅓ cup (80 mL) milk 1 egg ½ tsp (2 mL) vanilla

3½ cups (875 mL) all-purpose flour ½ cup (125 mL) granulated sugar 1½ tsp (7 mL) cinnamon ½ tsp (2 mL) salt Filling: 2 bars (100 g each) Lindt Excellence Sea Salt Dark Chocolate ⅓ cup (80 mL) packed brown sugar 3 tbsp (45 mL) melted butter

Icing Drizzle: Whisk 1½ cups (375 mL) icing sugar with about 2 tbsp (30 mL) milk, to reach drizzling consistency. Use a fork to drizzle over buns.

You’ll need: Excellence Sea Salt , FOR MORE CHOCOLATE INSPIRATION, VISIT EVERYDAY-EXCELLENCE.COM

Lindt Excellence Caramel & Sea Salt Dark Chocolate also works well in this recipe.

SEASONAL  A CASE FOR SPRING

elegant DINNER PARTY

LAST HOCKEY GAME OF THE YEAR Tripel Karmeliet LCBO 287490, 330 mL, $3.65 Bid the NHL season farewell with a great beer! The recipe for this strong (8.4% alcohol by volume) Belgian triple-grain brew comes from a 17th-century monastery, or so they say. It certainly makes a great impression in this day and age, a golden haze in the glass with a thick white head and a finely tuned balance of wheat, oats, barley malt and Styrian hops. Spicy citrus and apple aromas make fruitiness the initial impression.

TIME TO TAKE IT EASY Snapple Spiked Peach Tea Vodka  LCBO 407775, 458 mL, $2.90

Chilling them down and tasting them blind is the best way to assess ready-to-drink cocktails with an open mind. This vodka-spiked cooler showed well beside its brethren. The actual vodka is a most unobtrusive presence, hidden behind the sweet, tangy flavour of poached peaches and the hint of real tea, both of which harmonize nicely. Serve on the rocks and garnish with a slice of lemon.

2027 Wismer Vineyard Fox Croft Block Chardonnay 2014 VQA VINTAGES 421362, $22.95 A famous Niagara vineyard and an in- creasingly renowned winemaker in Kevin Panagapkacombine for thisexceptionally well-balanced, middleweight Chardonnay. Smooth but tangy, with pear, lemon zest and vanilla oak notes, it’s worthy of any connoisseur’s attention. Serve it with butter-poached lobster.

EVERYDAY RED La Belle Angele Merlot LCBO 470039, $10.95 Here’s a handy French red to have around—a versatile, dry Merlot that offers a longer finish and much more so- phistication than you’d expect from the price. Splash it into a decanter or jug to open up the peppery cherries and oaky spice, then enjoy it with grilled or roasted meats, sausages or firm, nippy cheese.

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A D V E R T I S I N G F E A T U R E

CHOCOLATE TRUFFLE RASPBERRY PIE

METHOD

INGREDIENTS

2 bars (100 g each) Lindt Excellence 70% Cacao Dark Chocolate 2 cups (500 mL) fresh raspberries 9-in (23 cm) baked tart or pie shell 1 cup (250 mL) whipping cream ¼ cup (60 mL) sherry, Kahlua or brandy

1. Finely chop chocolate and place in a bowl. Scatter berries in tart shell. Heat cream, sherry and vanilla in a small pan, stirring often, until bubbles form around sides. Pour over chocolate and stir gently until chocolate melts. 2. Pour over berries in tart shell and smooth top, covering all berries. Leave at room temperature a half-hour, then refrigerate at least 2 hours or overnight before serving. Serve chilled with a scattering of pistachio nuts and more berries. Serves 10.

1 tsp (5 mL) pure vanilla Pistachio nuts (optional)

You’ll need: Excellence 70% Cacao , FOR MORE CHOCOLATE INSPIRATION, VISIT EVERYDAY-EXCELLENCE.COM

Lindt Excellence Sea Salt Dark Chocolate also works well in this recipe.

SEASONAL  A CASE FOR SPRING

FOR THE vernal equinox

Les Jamelles Sauvignon Blanc Pays D’Oc LCBO 465146, $13.95 The success of New Zealand’s in- tense, fruit-forward style of Sauvi- gnon Blanc has influenced French winemakers, especially in the Pays d’Oc. Expect powerful grapefruit, passion fruit and gooseberry matched by zingy acidity and a hint of flint in the finish. It’s a big wine but balanced—just right for toasting the day-night equality of the equinox. Pair it with roasted asparagus.

BRUNCH WITH FRIENDS Collective Arts Local Press Apple Cider LCBO 472639, 473 mL, $3.45 The scary black rabbit head on the can does an injustice to a sprightly, refreshing, pleasingly drycider fromaHamiltoncidery. Pressed from Ontario-grown Northern Spy, Ida Red and Spartan apples, it approaches the sharp flavour of European cider-apple ciders while remain­ ing a clear crowd-pleaser. A fine introduction to the ever-grow- ing field of local ciders.

FIRST STEAK OFF THE BBQ Château Croze de Pys Prestige

Malbec Cahors VINTAGES 681668, $17.95

Ever wonder what Malbec tasted like before it moved to Argentina? This is Cahors, France, so there are austere tannins that dry out the aftertaste of plums and mulberries—but that’s the point with Cahors. A good, fatty rib-eye steak will restore order on your palate, taming the tannins and permitting max- imum enjoyment of this classic wine.

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A D V E R T I S I N G F E A T U R E

HAZELNUT CHOCOLATE CARROT CAKE

METHOD

INGREDIENTS

4. To assemble, slice each layer horizontally in half. Place top half of 1 layer, dome-side down, on a platter. Spread with a quarter of the icing, leaving a narrow border of cake. Lay bottom part of that layer on top, cut-side down. Repeat spreading and layering. Refrigerate overnight before serving. Serves 12. Cream Cheese Icing: Bring 1 cup (250 mL) unsalted butter and 2 blocks (250 g each) cream cheese to room temperature. Beat together with 1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla until creamy. Gradually beat in 4 cups (1 L) icing sugar.

1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Grease two 9-in (2 L) cake pans. Finely chop chocolate and place in a bowl. Heat milk just to boiling. Pour over chocolate and stir gently until melted. In a bowl, whisk flour with baking powder, soda, salt and spices. 2. In a large bowl, using a mixer on medium, beat oil with sugar, eggs and vanilla for 3 minutes. Beat in chocolate. Add flour mixture. Stir with a spoon until even in colour. Stir in carrots. Divide batter between pans. 3. Bake 35 to 40 minutes, until cakes are springy when tapped. Remove pans to cooling racks. After 5 minutes, run a knife around sides of cakes. Turn out of pans. Invert and cool on racks. (Covered cake will keep well at room temperature for 2 days.)

2 bars (100 g each) Lindt Excellence Hazelnut Dark Chocolate ⅓ cup (80 mL) milk 2½ cups (625 mL) all-purpose flour 2 tsp (10 mL) baking powder 1 tsp (5 mL) baking soda 1 tsp (5 mL) salt 1½ tsp (7 mL) cinnamon 1 tsp (5 mL) nutmeg ½ tsp (2 mL) allspice ¾ cup (175 mL) vegetable oil 1½ cups (375 mL) granulated sugar 4 eggs 2 tsp (10 mL) vanilla 4 cups (1 L) grated carrots, not packed Cream Cheese Icing (see at right)

You’ll need: Excellence Hazelnut , FOR MORE CHOCOLATE INSPIRATION, VISIT EVERYDAY-EXCELLENCE.COM

Lindt Excellence 70% Cacao Dark Chocolate also works well in this recipe.

FOOD BASICS

WE ALL LOVE THE CONVENIENCE OF ENERGY BARS—WHICH CAN BE EXPENSIVE—BUT THESE HEALTHY HOMEMADE VERSIONS OFFER STANDOUT FLAVOUR, AND THEY’RE EASIER ON THE POCKETBOOK! bars BY ESHUN MOTT PHOTOGRAPHY BY VINCE NOGUCHI

SWITCH IT UP! Go old school and use a mix of whole and chopped roasted peanuts instead of almonds and hazelnuts.

Upscale GORP Bars recipe on page 108

FOOD & DRI NK SPRING

BASICS POWER BARS

SWITCH IT UP! This mixture is also great rolled into balls and coated with finely chopped pecans.

Medjool dates are packed with vitamins and fibre, making an excellent and tasty base for these soft and delicious apple-pie-inspired energy bars. It’s important that you use soft, fresh dried apple rings and chop them to about the size you want to see in the bars because they don’t break down very much in the food processor. You can get a wide range of di er- ent textures depending on how long you pro- cess the mixture for. 2 cups (500 mL) chopped dried apple rings 1½ cups (375 mL) coarsely chopped, pitted Medjool dates (packed, about 20 to 25 dates) 2 cups (500 mL) whole pecans, toasted 1 tsp (5 mL) cinnamon ½ tsp (2 mL) kosher salt 1 Line a 9-inch (23-cm) square pan with parch- ment paper. 2 Place dried apples, dates, pecans, flax seed, lemon rind, cinnamon and salt in the bowl of a food processor (in the order written for best texture) and pulse just until everything is chopped enough to just hold together when squeezed. Scrape into prepared pan, cover with a piece of plastic wrap and use your fin- gers to press down into a smooth even layer. Chill in fridge for 30 minutes to firm up, then pull on parchment paper to remove bars from pan. Cut into 16 bars. Wrap individual bars in waxed paper then place in a sealed bag or plas- tic container and keep in refrigerator for up to 1 month. Makes 16 bars Date, Apple & Pecan Energy Bars 2 tbsp (30 mL) ground flax seed 1 tsp (5 mL) grated lemon rind

FOOD & DRI NK SPRING

WELCOME TO THE BLOOM SHOW.

BloomStruck ® is the reblooming garden hydrangea that never ceases to impress. From spring to fall get gorgeous colorful blooms with minimal maintenance.

experience life in full bloom ™

©2017 Endless Summer/Bailey Nurseries, Inc.

BASICS POWER BARS

SWITCH IT UP! For an all-almond variation, try using roasted almond

butter and roasted almonds in place of the cashews.

Knowing exactly what’s in a protein bar makes it a lot more appealing. The pu ed brown rice gives these bars a pleasing texture reminis- cent of a classic childhood treat, and the thin layer of chocolate takes them to another level. Don’t be tempted to cut back on the honey— you need it to help hold the bars together. ½ cup (125 mL) honey 1 tbsp (15 mL) coconut oil ¾ cup (175 mL) smooth natural almond & cashew butter ¼ cup (60 mL) ground almonds ¼ cup (60 mL) plant-based protein smoothie powder (such as Vega “Oh Natural”) ¼ tsp (1 mL) kosher salt 1½ cups (375 mL) pu ed brown rice Packed-with-Protein Bars

⅔ cup (150 mL) dark chocolate chips, melted ¼ cup (60 mL) chopped roasted salted cashews 1 Line a 9-inch (23-cm) square pan with parch- ment paper. Set aside. 2 Place honey in a small pot over medium heat. Bring to a rolling boil and boil for 30 sec- onds then remove from heat. Add coconut oil and almond & cashew butter and stir until combined. 3 Scrape nut butter mixture into a bowl, add ground almonds, protein powder and salt, and stir until incorporated. Add pu ed brown rice

and stir until well coated. Pack mixture into prepared pan and chill for 30 minutes or until firm. Remove from fridge. 4 Use parchment paper to pull solid bar mix- ture from pan. Melt chocolate chips. Driz- zle chocolate over chilled bar mixture and spread into an even thin layer. Sprinkle with chopped cashews. Chill 30 minutes then cut into 16 bars. Wrap bars individually and store in a sealed bag or box in the fridge for up to 1 month. Makes 16 bars

FOOD & DRI NK SPRING

The Legend of Big Bill is Now Available in the South African Section!

William “Big Bill” Millar. Now there was a man.

Bo xing champ, decorated war hero, Springbok Rugby

Captain and the rst General Manager of KWV.

T here is only one wine barrel in the world large

enough to bear his name, to carry his legacy.

LCBO Buyer’s Pick COURTNEY DAWSON Product Manager, New World Wines

Save $2.00 Per Bottle During the Month of March

Regular $12.95 Sale Price $10.95 - ( # 457119)