LCBO Food & Drink Spring 2017

FLAVOURS  TAKING STALK

Celery is often associated with dieting. Hungrily munching on celery sticks is sup­ posed to fill you up. But celery is much more versatile than its bad diet image would have you believe. Using it all from base to tip adds depth of flavour and a burst of freshness to either raw or cooked food. Chopped into tabbouleh it gives the grain salad a whole new flavour profile that is addictive. Celery and apple make a beautiful pale green soup—garnished with walnuts for a riff on Waldorf salad. Braised, it becomes a soft and sensuous side dish. Celery leaf pesto gives a bite of bitterness that is the perfect contrast to meaty tuna. One caveat: don’t confuse celery with celeriac, or celery root—celery root in fact is not the root of celery—it is a different vege­ table altogether, although considered a cousin.

COOK WITH LEAVES Celery leaves have a slightly bitter taste. They are used like a herb in cooking. They make a lovely pesto, and they flavour everything from soups to grain dishes. They are an attractive garnish if chilled in ice water for an hour in the refrigerator. The only thing I avoid using them in is stock as they can impart their bitterness into the stock.

KEEP IT FRESH Knowing what to do with a whole head of celery can be a challenge when many recipes call for only a few stalks. Keep it crisp by wrapping it tightly in aluminum foil and refrigerating it. The foil keeps the celery’s moisture in without speeding up ripening like plastic wrap would do. Store celery like this for up to a month, using the stalks as you need them. COOK WITH STALK Celery stalks are in fact part of the plant’s leaf, but the long crunchy ribs have a greater range of uses than the leafy tips. Chopped with onion and carrot they become part of a traditional mirepoix, which is a base for soups and stews. Try braising them for an unusual and delicious side dish. Snack on raw stalks with a creamy dip or add them to salads for some good crunch.

32  FOOD & DRI NK SPRING 2017