LCBO Food & Drink Winter 2017

German wines are traditionally low in alco- hol because the cool climate means there’s less sugar in the grapes to ferment into alcohol. It also means more acidity, so savvy winemakers will stop fermentation early to leave a little residual sugar in the wine as a balance. Hence, even less alcohol. So we have a delectably elegant, off-dry Baden Gewürztraminer ( LCBO 336735, $11.90) read- ing only 10.5% ABV. It’s a heavenly aperitif, with fresh acidity and a bouquet of rose petals touched by a hint of smoke and gin- ger. Another classic German wine coming in at the same ABV is Clean Slate Riesling ( LCBO 286237, $12.95). Clean, well balanced and also slightly off-dry, it shows the slate minerality and lime aroma that character- ize wines from the Mosel’s famously steep riverside vineyards. Much Portuguese vinho verde derives its low-alcohol reading from grapes that are picked early to retain freshness and acidity and therefore have less sugar in the must. Aliança’s latest version ( LCBO 75663, $9.00) is drier than I remember it being a few years ago, typically spritzy and lightweight with a trace of sweetness to offset the natural acidity (10% ABV). Jacob’s Creek Moscato ( LCBO 265157, $12.95) offers another good illustration of a winemaker stopping fermentation to leave a sugar-rich, low-alcohol treat. This sweet, frothy, fizzy, festive party wine with just 7.7% ABV is packed with Muscat grape flavour that always reminds me of ripe peaches, honeysuckle and gardenia. Drink it with cake.

FOOD & DRI NK WINTER