LCBO Food & Drink Early Summer 2017

EARLY SUMMER 2017

A HISTORIC BIRTHDAY CALLS FOR A HISTORIC BOTTLE.

A taste of who we are.

Available exclusively for a limited time at the

Must be legal drinking age.

Beer is one of our favourite national pastimes, and from 1961 to 1984, the stubby was our national beer bottle. It was introduced by the Dominion Brewers Association as an industry-standard bottle to replace the

inconsistent shapes, styles and sizes that had been previously circling throughout the nation’s brewing industry. The new bottle was easier to ship and transport, and allowed for more refills. The stubby was an instant hit. Its distinct shape resonated with Canadians across the nation, and over 150 million stubbies were produced during the 60’s and 70’s. The stubby saw its last year in 1984, when the longneck bottle was introduced by major breweries. Now, we’re celebrating Canada’s 150th by bringing back one of our most beloved icons. Because there’s no better way to celebrate a historic birthday, than with a historic bottle.

Every great dinner party starts somewhere.

Welcome Life In

Jars Tourron Dinnerware Toronto • Mississauga • Calgary • Edmonton • Laval • Vancouver | 888.657.4108

TABLE OF CONTENTS

FEATURES

64 GARDEN VARIETY

By Marilyn Bentz-Crowley A mostly make-ahead menu designed to be enjoyed outside, surrounded by the fruits of your gardening efforts.

72 SWEET SOMETHINGS By Joanne Yolles

Just a taste is all you need to satisfy a craving; opt for these heavenly sweet- bite-or-two recipes for meal’s end.

78 CELEBRATING CHARDONNAY By James Chatto

A look back at last summer’s annual international cool‑climate Chardonnay celebration (i4C) in Niagara so that you can plan ahead to attend this year.

86 KEBABS WITH KICK! By Lucy Waverman

For those who like it hot (or ish ), these new spice seasonings will delight on all kinds of grilled kebabs.

92 SANGRIA 2.0

By Michelle P.E.Hunt & Laura Panter Sangria turns sensational with five new flavour twists: exotic, tropical, aromatic, savoury and tart. ON THE COVER Pumpkin-Seed & Chili-Crusted Fish Fillets with Avocado Tartar Sauce, recipe on page 144. Photography by Rob Fiocca

72

FOOD & DRI NK EARLY SUMMER 2017 5

TABLE OF CONTENTS

DRINK

BEER SUMMER SHANDIES By Chris Johns

39

The classic summer refreshment known as the Shandy gets four new flavour makeovers, each making the most of a different beer style.

BASICS ALL STIRRED UP By Charlene Rooke

55

Cocktails stirred not shaken are coming into their own and are easily perfected with our guide to stirring techniques and tools—including recipes designed to show off the difference it all makes.

GIFTS WINNING SPIRITS By James Chatto

107

Award-winning spirits make perfect gifts—and with so many special occasions this time of year, you can rely on our roundup of sure bets to be your go-to gift guide.

117

IN EVERY ISSUE

DEPARTMENTS FOOD

EDITOR’S NOTES

10

A SPLASH OF GIN Gin’s food-friendly botanicals shine in the crust and filling of a seasonal rhubarb pie. WHAT’S NEW A selection of products from around the world available at the LCBO and VINTAGES. MUST-HAVES Things we love for entertaining and around the house. TRENDSPOTTING From storing a few cases in the basement to building a professional-grade cellar, our tips for cellaring at home.

15

FLAVOURS SEEDS OF GREATNESS By Jennifer MacKenzie

31

17

Sprinkled overtop, ground up for a crunchy coating or stirred in, seeds add texture, colour, flavour and nutritional value to all manner of dishes. ENTERTAINING PARFAIT PLEASURES By Eshun Mott Make any celebratory brunch special by serving a parfait— whether at the start or the end of the meal—we’ve got options for both! Party sandwiches needn’t be tiny and crustless—instead, serve up these hearty versions designed to really satisfy a hungry crowd. SEASONAL SALADS ON THE SIDE By Christopher St. Onge Summery slaw, rice, grain, bean and potato salads—ideal for toting along to summer gatherings—get dazzling new updates. TWISTS SANDWICHES TO SHARE By Eric Vellend

22

47

25

99

RECIPE INDEX

154

SOURCE RESOURCE

154

FIVE QUESTIONS WITH… Frank Dodd of Trius Winery restaurant in Niagara-on-the-Lake is loving life among the vineyards, and bracing himself for the annual rush of summer visitors.

156

117

BASICS TAKEOUT AT HOME By Amy Rosen

127

Four irresistible recipes recreate classic takeout chicken dishes—simple to make and easier on your pocketbook, too!

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Publication Director & SVP .........Nancy Cardinal Sales, Marketing & Insights

VP Marketing ..................................Kerri Dawson Editor .................................................Jody Dunn Art Directors ...................................Karen Lim, Cathy Cicchini

Senior Editor ...................................James Chatto Food Editor .......................................Lucy Waverman Contributing Editors ....................Charlene Rooke, Kat Tancock Publication Coordinator ............Leslie Virdo Graphic Designers .........................Wincy Law, Dominique Patafio, Pat Turbach Production Manager ...................Mark Greene Production Coordinator .............Judy Haverkort Publication Assistant .................Piper MacFadyen Production Assistant ...................Everton Smith Food Stylists ....................................Eshun Mott, Christopher St. Onge Prop Stylists ....................................Catherine MacFadyen, Andrea McCrindle, Lara McGraw Contributors ...................................Julia Aitken, Marilyn Bentz-Crowley,

Cynthia David, Michelle P.E. Hunt, Chris Johns, Anna Kohn, Ann Lough, Jennifer MacKenzie, Brenda Morrison, Eshun Mott, Laura Panter, Amy Rosen, Christopher St. Onge, Eric Vellend, Joanne Yolles

COMING NEXT ISSUE CANADA’S BLOCK PARTY A feast of food and cocktails for Canada Day THRILL OF THE GRILL New trends and recipes for your barbecue

Publisher ..........................................Wayne Leek

For general inquiries about Food & Drink magazine or information about LCBO products and policy please contact helloLCBO online at hellolcbo.com, or call toll-free 1•800•668•5226 or 416•365•5900. TTY Only: 416•864•6898 or 1•800•361•3291. For advertising in Food & Drink magazine, please contact Keystone Media, 416•224•1500 or e-mail foodanddrink@keystonemedia.ca. All advertiser applications are subject to the terms and conditions of the LCBO’s advertising agreement. Food & Drink is published six times a year by the Liquor Control Board of Ontario. Volume 24, Number 5. Food & Drink is printed on paper that contains 10 percent post-consumer fibre. Food & Drink is recyclable in communities participating in magazine recycling programs.

THE VODKA SPECTRUM A vodka tasting with hors d’oeuvres EAT, DRINK AND STAY The best of Canada

Publication Mail Agreement No. 40064521 Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Food & Drink , 55 Lake Shore Boulevard East, Toronto, ON, M5E 1A4 ISSN 1195-5988

WATCH FOR THE S UMME R I S S UE OF

AVA I LABLE JUNE 28

Not all of the wines, spirits and beers mentioned in Food & Drink will be available at all LCBO stores.

PRICES ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE WITHOUT NOTICE. Cette publication est également disponible en français.

8  FOOD & DRI NK EARLY SUMMER 2017

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EDITOR’S NOTES

al fresco entertaining returns to our calendars in May but before we make plans, the garden has to be cleaned up and planted. While certainly worth the e ort it’s a lot of hard work, so when you’re finally done, we know you’ll want to celebrate and show o the fruits of your labour. Our “Garden Variety” menu on page 64 was created with that exact occasion in mind. Pretty much everything can be prepared ahead, making it a great reward for you and anyone who has helped along the way.    If you want to raise a toast to the long summer ahead but are tired of your summer drink staples, this issue o ers plenty of fresh takes on the classics. In “Sangria 2.0” on page 92 the definitive summer crowd-pleaser gets made over in five flavourful ways—enough variety to try some- thing di erent all summer long. In “Summer Shandies” (page 39) we o er a shandy for every taste as we explore di erent beer styles and the most appropriate mixers. In “All Stirred Up” on page 55 we’ve stuck with classic recipes but present a strong case for stirring over shaking your cocktails. You and your guests will be surprised by the impact it has.    This is a good time to start plan- ning your summer weekend getaways and if you’re interested in wine,

Niagara’s i4C (International Cool Climate Chardonnay Celebration) is something you will definitely want to consider. Starting on page 78, James Chatto recaps his experience attending last year’s event with a look forward to what’s in store this year. Packed with great wine, great food and great people, it’s a fun way to spend a few days and explore Ontario’s gorgeous wine coun- try at the same time. If you decide to go, be sure to book now as events do sell out quickly.    And finally, don’t forget all the occasions (Mother’s and Father’s Day, weddings, graduations, etc.) that call for a special bottle or a special meal this time of year. “Winning Spirits” on page 107 presents a selection of award-winning spirits, all available at the LCBO. When you’re not sure what to choose, let this be your go-to gift guide. If you’re hosting a crowd, take a pass on traditional tea sandwiches and check out “Sandwiches to Share” on page 99 for a selection of party-sized sandwiches that are sure to satisfy. Or if a more intimate brunch is in the works, “Parfait Pleasures” on page 47 is worth a look. Whether served at the beginning or end, a parfait is a stylish course to add to your menu.    So much to do, so much to plan, so much fun to be had at this time of year… Have a great summer!

PORTRAIT BY JAMES TSE

FOOD & DRI NK EARLY SUMMER

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Refined Red

Great with smoked ribs LAN CRIANZA Rioja, Spain 166538 750 mL $15.95 Medium-bodied & Fruity

Great with lamb WAKEFIELD SHIRAZ South Australia 943787 750 mL Full-bodied & Smooth

$18.95

Great with grilled pork chops OYSTER BAY CHARDONNAY Marlborough, New Zealand 326728 750 mL $18.95 Full-bodied & Rich Great with beef-stuffed manicotti RUFFINO MODUS Tuscany, Italy 912956 750 mL $29.95 Medium-bodied & Fruity

Trendsetter

Smooth Aussie

Prices subject to change without notice. Available in Vintages locations at select LCBO stores.

Saturday evening, further your exploration of cool. Pinot Noir, Gamay, and Cabernet Franc will share the spotlight at the signature event of the weekend. Join 59 winemakers from around the world as they gather in Niagara for a weekend of wine and culinary showcase events. Explore up to 159 wines from 9 countries at the Cool Chardonnay World Tour, or opt for more intimate tastings and seminars in cellars and vineyards across wine country. THIS JULY, THE WORLD COMES TO NIAGARA TO CELEBRATE CHARDONNAY.

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A SPLASH OF GIN BY JULIA AITKEN  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY JAMES TSE

THE PROOF IS IN THE FLAVOUR WHEN YOU COOK WITH GIN.

RHUBARB- JUNIPER PIE WITH GIN recipe on page 145

Gin has always been a good team player. Paired with a suggestion of vermouth in a classic Martini, combined with artisanal syrups in a craft cocktail or simply topped up with tonic, gin gets along fine with just about everything.     But, despite being a great mixer, gin doesn’t venture into the kitchen too often. Which is a shame be- cause the botanicals used in creating gin are all eminently food-friendly. Juniper berries are a constant but spices and citrus peel, angelica, licorice and saffron can all make an appearance in the distillation process.     Local distiller Dillon’s, of Beamsville, Ont., uses no fewer than 22 botanicals in its aptly named Dillon’s Unfiltered Gin 22 ( LCBO 358556, $39.85). Made from Niagara grapes, then vapour distilled, the gin is bottled unfiltered to preserve its full flavour (so, although it looks crystal clear in the bottle, expect a cloudiness once you add ice).     Dillon’s is an intensely floral gin, heady with juniper and with notes of citrus and spice. All of which made us think… rhubarb. So a springtime pie was in order, with gin making an appearance in both crust (for super-flaky pastry) and filling, where it teams with juniper, coriander and orange zest to echo the gin’s warm flavours. As we said, a good mixer.

FOOD & DRI NK EARLY SUMMER 2017 15

FIND THE PERFECT GIFTS FOR HER

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WHAT’S NEW BY JULIA AITKEN  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY VINCE NOGUCHI

A WORLD OF NEW PRODUCTS AT THE LCBO AND VINTAGES.

CAN-DO SPARKLER

JOIY LCBO 486456, 250 mL, $4.95

The pretty-as-a-picture pack- aging makes this a must for entertaining (bridal shower, anyone?) and the convenience of the single-serve sparkler-in-a- can can’t be beaten. Made from aromatic New Zealand Riesling grapes, this easy-drinking bub- bly chills down fast and totes easily to cottage, patio or deck for a perfect summer tipple.

IN THE PINK Pelee Island Lola Sparkling Rosé VQA LCBO 450981, $13.95 This prettily pink wine was a huge hit during last year’s seasonal rosé promotion so it’s back just in time for more warm-weather get- togethers. Slightly sparkling and with aromas and flavours of fresh strawberries and blood orange, it’s the perfect pour with both hors d’oeuvre and strawberry tarts, or simply sipped with good friends out on the deck.

CALIFORNIA CLASSIC

Beringer Napa Valley Chardonnay VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 84988, $22.95

Founded in 1879, Beringer is California’s oldest continuously operating winery. No wonder Beringer’s Chardonnay is so well crafted. Juicy with tropical fruit flavours, along with lemon, pear and toasty spice, it’s full and creamy but with zesty acidity. There’s no finer match than a summery seafood feast of lobster, shrimp or crab.

FOOD & DRI NK EARLY SUMMER 2017 17

WHAT ’ S NEW

A HEAVENLY ROSÉ

Caves d’Esclans Whispering Angel Rosé VINTAGES 325076, $27.95

This VINTAGES record-breaker has customers lining up each time it’s released, and no wonder. The beautifully crafted Provençal rosé is elegant and restrained with mineral and citrus notes and hints of white peach and berry fruitiness. A fine aperitif, the wine also pairs well with grilled fish (particularly salmon), seafood or unripened goat cheese.

CREAM OF THE CROP Black Cow Pure Milk Spirit LCBO 486563, $49.95

COTTAGE COMPANIONS

London Rd Mojito LCBO 491779, 200 mL, $3.60 London Rd Cosmo LCBO 491787, 200 mL, $3.60

Here’s something new from south- west England. Dairy farmer and owner of Black Cow, Jason Barber created this unique tipple when he was looking for a use for the leftover whey produced during cheese making. Black Cow fer- ments, distills and triple-filters the whey to create a super-smooth spirit with a distinctive creamy character. Sub for vodka in your favourite cocktails, or en- joy straight up or over ice…with cheese, naturally.

Tuck these zesty ready-to-drink cocktails in the cooler for that first trip to the cottage this summer and you’ll be all set for weekend entertaining. Packaged in oh-so- cool individual jars, these classic cocktails need just a quick shake, then you pop the lid, add ice and a straw and they’re good to go.

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WHAT ’ S NEW

SOUTHERN ACCENT

Old Camp Peach Pecan Liqueur LCBO 495739, $26.95

American country music duo Florida Georgia Line launched the Old Camp brand last sum- mer. Like their songs, this whis- key-based liqueur is a little bit Florida, little bit Georgia. Rich flavours of peach and pecan combine with notes of caramel and a hint of spice. Sip with ice or drizzle over ice cream for a grown-up sundae.

TOAST MASTER Grande Cuvée 1531 de Aimery Crémant de Limoux LCBO 428086, $17.40 Whatever you’re toasting this sum- mer—a birthday, a happy couple or just life itself—this elegant bubbly will fit the bill. Sourced from the oldest sparkling wine region in the world and made by a winery that traces its history back to 1531, it offers citrus and toasty notes that teamwell with smoked salmon, white meat or rich desserts.

WORTH THE WAIT

Founders All Day IPA LCBO 486514, 6 pk, $14.00

Michigan-based Founders Brewing Co. specializes in complex in-your-face beers and this India Pale Ale is no exception. Naturally brewed from an in- teresting array of malts, grains and hops, it’s an aromatic brew with a clean finish. Sold to 23 countries and currently the fastest-growing craft beer in the U.S., All Day IPA is now available in Canada.

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BY BRENDA MORRISON  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY VINCE NOGUCHI WITH MUCH TO CELEBRATE THIS TIME OF YEAR, WE’VE GOT EXCEPTIONAL FINDS FOR GIFTS AND ENTERTAINING. MUST -HAVES

A CUT ABOVE Elevate your barbecue experience with a set of superior-quality Laguiole steak knives. We love this fun-coloured Fruity Set ($130 for six)—all featuring the company’s iconic bee on each bolster. Made in France and available at Yonge Street Winery (Aurora, 905•841•5552, yongestreetwinery.com).

NOVEL NAPKINS For occasions with a large guest list, it makes sense to opt for a few disposable items. Equally as impressive as cloth napkins, yet much less expensive, Original Single-Use Fibre Napkins ($16.98 for a box of 21) look and feel just like fabric. Choose from five colours, available at Yonge Street Winery (Aurora, 905•841•5552, yongestreetwinery.com).

FEELING PUNCHY? Ideal for summer entertaining, the Ivalo Punch Bowl Set ($310) is a stylish self-serve drink station, including a ladle and four match- ing tumblers. The wooden lid not only holds the ladle in place, it keeps out insects at al fresco gatherings. Available at Hopson Grace (Toronto, 416•926•1120, hopsongrace.com).

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PICTURE PERFECT The Fujifilm Instax

Mini 9 ($99.99) instant camera lets you send guests home with keep- sake photos—rather than e-mailing them later on. This brand new model features a built-in selfie mirror, four brightness settings and a close-up lens attachment. Choose from five trendy colours. Visit fujifilm.ca for retailers.

TROPICAL TOUCH Pineapples have long been a symbol of hospitality in North America, and this Tealight Holder ($19.99) placed on your front porch or back deck provides a warm glow to welcome your guests. From the Canvas Collection, exclusively at Canadian Tire (canadiantire.ca).

MESSAGE ON A BOTTLE Transform any bottle into a gift with a Teroforma Bottleneck Mini ($12.95), filled with novel party favours. Choose from a variety of themes including special occasions such as Happy Birthday and Bon Voyage. Available at Rolo (Toronto, 877•765•6438, rolostore.com).

WHEEL OF FLAVOUR Keep your favourite spices at your fingertips! The SPARQ Home Spice Wheel ($70) features seven handmade soapstone bowls with wooden and slate lids for keeping aromatic spices fresh and organized (416•607•6766, orangefish.ca).

FOOD & DRI NK EARLY SUMMER 2017 23

30 years ago, we le the mainstream to nd Creemore’s spring.

Our founder, John Wiggins, turned an old hardware store into a quaint brewery back in 1987. It could have been the shop’s lingering spirit of making — creating something from nothing. Maybe it was just far enough from the in uence of the big city. Or maybe it was simply a ordable. Either way, today we’re proud to celebrate 30 years of cra ing European-inspired brews — John’s way — in the unique village of Creemore. Now it’s time to celebrate the makers like him. e ones obsessed with originality. e ones who push for a world made by someone, not something. e ones who choose the road less travelled. So this June, visit creemoresprings.com for a special announcement, honouring the next generation of makers.

We are Creemore Springs. We are makers.

TREND SPOTTING BY ERIC VELLEND  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY VINCE NOGUCHI

WHAT’S ON OUR RADAR FROM THE WORLD OF FOOD AND DRINK.

From storing a few cases in the basement to building a professional-grade cellar, everyone can reap the benefits of lovingly aged wine.

FOOD & DRI NK EARLY SUMMER 2017 25

TREND SPOTT ING

LCBO Vice-President of Product, Sales and Merchandising, Shari Mogk-Edwards, shares three picks for the cellar from the always- available VINTAGES ESSENTIALS collection. SHARI RECOMMENDS

BRAVING THE ELEMENTS

Before laying down bottles for future enjoyment, it’s important to know what your collection is up against. Here are the three enemies of wine. TEMPERATURE The ideal range for stor- ing wine is 45°F to 65°F (7°C to 18°C). Too hot and the wine will “cook” and age pre- maturely; too cold, like a garage in winter, and the wine could freeze, expand and push the cork out. You also want to avoid rapid tempera- ture swings.

VEUVE CLICQUOT PONSARDIN BRUT VINTAGE CHAMPAGNE VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 508614, $98.95 This bottle is one of our top-selling vintage Champagnes. With time, it will lose a little of its sparkle, be- come darker in colour, and develop stronger toasty flavours and com- plexity. Store up to five years.

HUMIDITY Wines with corks should be stored at 50 to 80 percent humidity. A dry cork could shrink and compro- mise the seal, which is why bottles are

LIGHT The majority of wine is sold in green or brown glass bottles to pro- tect the contents from damaging UV rays. Your storage area should also steer clear of natural light, be it a closet or dark corner of the basement. aged on their sides. Basements fluctuate between this range for much of the year, and a humidifier can help in dry winter months. A hydro-thermom- eter—available at most hardware stores—will help you keep tabs on temperature and humidity.

CASTELGIOCONDO BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 650432, $50.95 Brunello is a classic wine for aging. Made from 100 percent Sangiovese, this Tuscan gem has the acidity and tannins to hold for five to 10 years. The flavours will evolve from fresh berries to dried fruits, nuts and spices.

CHÂTEAU PIPEAU VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 302018, $37.95 Bordeaux reds are time-honoured cellar wines. This Merlot-based example comes from St-Émilion grand cru, which is also home to the coveted Châteaux Cheval Blanc. It will soften as it ages and develop increased complexity.

Cool Runnin’

With their dry air and bright light, condos are a hostile environment for wine. There is an easy solution: wine fridges. An

FIT FOR THE CELLAR  Not all wines are built to last. The two key factors in longevity are acidity (from the juice) and tannins (from seeds, skins, stems and wood barrels). Here are five styles of wine that will age gracefully.

affordable option is this compact number from Danby ($429.99). The 38-bottle capacity will house a modest collection, and whites and reds can be kept at different ready-to-drink temperatures. A tempered glass door protects the bottles from harmful UV light, and at four cubic feet, it won’t take up too much real estate . Danby Dual Zone Wine Cooler, 38-Bottle, at Canadian Tire.

Dry Riesling from Australia’s Eden or Claire Valley

➤ Reserva and gran reserva Rioja from Spain

➤

➤ Barolo and Barbaresco from Italy’s Pied- mont region

Premier and grand cru whites from Burgundy

➤

Vintage port

➤

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OF TORONTO

15-18 JUNE GARRISON COMMON FORT YORK

The McEwan Group | Richmond Station | Bar Isabel | Piano Piano Antler | Little Sister | The Drake | Bar Buca | Barque | Miku | Kanpai Café Boulud | Nota Bene | Momofuku Noodle Bar | and more Get tickets at tasteoftoronto.com #TasteofToronto

TREND SPOTT ING

rack ’em up For maximum efficiency (and moist corks), wine is best stored on its side. This simple design from RTA Global ($49.99) is a good starting point. Made of solid wood and galvanized steel, it securely stores up to 30 bottles. (For larger collections, there is a 72-bottle option.) Bonus: an online video provides a helping hand during assembly. RTA 30-bottle Wine Rack at Canadian Tire.

Fine Wine Reserve

To the Wine Cave From modest aficionados who don’t have proper conditions at home all the way up to serious collectors who have outgrown their cellars, tipplers of all stripes use professional wine storage. (These companies can also provide a temporary home for wine during renovations.)    Fine Wine Reserve (finewinereserve.com) has lockers at its downtown Toronto location that hold anywhere from 70 to 7,000 bottles, and it now offers case storage in a new cellar near Pearson Airport. In Toronto’s East York, Iron Gate (irongatewine.com) stores clients’ wine in a subterranean vault-like cube. Extra services include online cellar inventory and management—it also does this for home cel- lars—to keep you on top of what needs drink- ing. And with one click, you can have bottles delivered to your home.

Once you start aging wine beyond 10 years, you will need a tightly controlled environment to protect your investment. This can range from a simple room with kit racks and basic cooling, to a splashed-out cellar with glass walls and custom cabinetry. Based in Mississauga, Rosehill Wine Cellars (rosehillwinecellars.com) has been in the game for over 20 years. It builds and consults on cellars all over Ontario, and its retail showroom has every oenological gadget imagin- able. Ottawa’s Wine Cellar Solutions (winecellarsolutions.com) has created some showstoppers in its 15 years, though it’s just as happy to advise someone on a DIY budget. CELLAR DWELLER

Rosehill Wine Cellars

IMAGE BOTTOM LEFT COURTESY OF ROSEHILL WINE CELLARS; IMAGE TOP RIGHT BY PATRICK JANDAK & FINE WINE RESERVE

28  FOOD & DRI NK EARLY SUMMER 2017

CREATE AND ELEVATE

____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

YOUR CHEESEBOARD WITH

____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

C a s t e l l o ® D e c o r a t e d C r e a m C h e e s e R i n g

Whether for formal entertaining or a casual Sunday brunch, Castello ® cheeseboards are a unique and delicious diversion from the everyday.

Castello ® Brie

Castello ® Traditional Blue

Castello ® Tickler Extra Mature Cheddar

Visit www.castellocheese.com to build your own cheeseboard!

NEW

NEW STRONGBOW DARK FRUIT: AVAILABLE EXCLUSIVELY IN THE STRONGBOW VARIETY PACK.

MUST BE LEGAL DRINKING AGE. PLEASE ENJOY STRONGBOW APPLE CIDERS RESPONSIBLY.

FOOD FLAVOURS

WHETHER YOU SPRINKLE THEM ON TOP, GRIND THEM UP FOR A CRUNCHY COATING OR STIR THEM IN, SEEDS IN THEIR VARYING GLORIES ADD TEXTURE, COLOUR, FLAVOUR AND NUTRITIONAL VALUE TO ALL MANNER OF DISHES.

BY JENNIFER M ac KENZIE • PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROB FIOCCA OF GREATNESS

PUMPKIN SEED & CHILI CRUSTED FISH FILLETS WITH AVOCADO TARTAR SAUCE recipe on page 144

FOOD & DRI NK EARLY SUMMER

FLAVOURS SEEDS OF GREATNESS

SEEDS

SEED OILS Seeds are likely on your mind for planting in the garden at this time of year, but why not scatter them in your cooking, too? Be- yond sesame seeds, experi- ment with sunflower seeds, green pumpkin seeds and, a relative newcomer in the kitchen, shelled hemp seeds.    As they all contain oil which can turn rancid, use seeds within a few weeks of purchase or store in tightly sealed freezer bags or containers in the freezer for up to 1 year. Virgin cold-pressed seed oils can be used any- where you’d use olive oil. Some, such as pumpkin and hemp, aren’t recom- mended for cooking so are best used in dressings, in uncooked dishes or driz- zled on cooked foods just before serving. Sunflower oil holds up well to frying and cooking. Sesame oil comes in a mild-flavoured plain version and a darker, richer toasted version, and both are good for using raw or in cooking.

SUNFLOWER SEEDS Sunflower seeds are actually the fruit of the sunflower plant. Add them to salads, baking and smoothies for their protein, fibre, zinc, vitamin E, B1, B6 and copper, and for their slightly nutty taste. Most roasted sunflower seeds have added oil so buy raw seeds and toast them yourself for a truer flavour and less greasy texture.

SESAME SEEDS Sesame seeds contain fibre, vitamin B1, zinc, iron and many minerals. White hulled seeds are the most common; the unhulled brown seeds are heartier and the black seeds have a stronger flavour. Fairly mild when raw, sesame benefits from toasting which brings out a distinct sweet, nutty flavour. Add to salads, coatings and top- pings and sweet and savoury baked goods.

GREEN PUMPKIN SEEDS Green pumpkin seeds, also known as pepitas, have a nutty, almost grassy taste and firm texture. Prized for protein and iron as well as a raft of B vitamins and potassium, they’re traditionally used in Mexican dishes. Also great in cereal, muffins, breads and salads and ground for coatings or toppings.

HEMP SEEDS Hemp seeds, sold as hulled “hearts,” are chock full of heart-healthy omega 3 and 6 fatty acids along with complete protein and magnesium. Tiny green and cream seeds have a sweet, nutty flavour. They’re soft, so they purée easily to thicken smooth- ies, sauces and desserts and also add a little texture when left whole in baked goods, cereals or coatings.

FOOD & DRI NK EARLY SUMMER

FLAVOURS  SEEDS OF GREATNESS

ASIAN GREENS SALAD WITH GRILLED TOFU, MISO DRESSING & SOY-GLAZED SESAME SEEDS recipe on page 144

FOOD & DRI NK EARLY SUMMER 2017 33

FLAVOURS  SEEDS OF GREATNESS

1 For the hemp seed pesto, combine basil, hemp seeds, garlic, Parmesan and ¼ tsp (1 mL) each of salt and pepper in a small food proces- sor or a blender. Process until basil is finely chopped. With the motor running, slowly drizzle oil in through the feed tube or hole in the blender lid until the pesto is fairly smooth and blended. Transfer to a bowl and season to taste with salt and pepper. (Store in a jar with plastic wrap directly on the surface and a tightly sealed lid in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.) 2 Preheat oven to 400°F (200°C). Line a large, rimmed baking sheet with foil. 3 Peel sweet potatoes, if desired, or scrub well. Cut into 1½-inch (4-cm) chunks. Com- bine 3 tbsp (45 mL) of the pesto and 1 tbsp (15 mL) of the oil in a large bowl; add sweet potatoes and stir to coat. Sprinkle with hemp seeds; toss to evenly coat. Spread out on one side of the baking sheet. Roast for 15 minutes while browning pork. 4 Season pork chops on both sides with salt and pepper. Heat a large skillet over medium- high heat. Add butter and remaining oil and

The nutty flavour of Canadian-grown hemp seeds is a good swap for the usual pine nuts in basil pesto, slathered on seared thick pork chops, then roasted to moist tenderness. Ad- ditional seeds add a crunchy coating to pesto- coated sweet potatoes that roast alongside the chops. Hemp oil doesn’t hold up well to cook- ing so go for a virgin cold-pressed sunflower or canola oil—or traditional olive oil. Serve roasted asparagus or cauliflower on the side. HEMP SEED PESTO 1 cup (250 mL) basil leaves ⅓ cup (80 mL) raw shelled hemp seeds 1 small clove garlic ⅓ cup (80 mL) freshly grated Parmesan cheese Salt and freshly ground pepper 3 tbsp (45 mL) flavourful seed or olive oil 2 large sweet potatoes, about 2 lbs (1 kg) 2 tbsp (30 mL) flavourful seed or olive oil, divided 2 tbsp (30 mL) raw shelled hemp seeds 4 bone-in pork loin chops, 1 inch (2.5 cm) thick Salt and freshly ground pepper 1 tbsp (15 mL) butter

swirl to coat. Add 2 pork chops and brown, for about 2 minutes per side, turning once. Place on a plate and brown remaining chops. 5 Remove baking sheet from oven. Place seared pork chops on sheet and spread tops with remaining pesto. Return to oven and roast for about 10 minutes or until a meat thermometer inserted horizontally in chops, without touching bone, registers 155°F (68°C). Transfer pork chops to a clean plate and tent loosely with foil to rest. Gently stir potatoes and spread out across baking sheet. Return to oven and roast for 5 to 10 minutes longer or until tender and browned. Serves 4

WHAT TO SERVE  Pommies Farmhouse Cider LCBO 418582, 473 mL, $3.10  Inniskillin Late Autumn Riesling VQA LCBO 219543, $14.95

SEAR-ROASTED PORK CHOPS & SWEET POTATOES WITH HEMP-SEED PESTO

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INTRODUCING THE MACALLAN DOUBLE CASK 12 YEARS OLD

TWO WORLDS, ONE MACALLAN

©2017 The Macallan Distillers Limited, The Macallan® Scotch Whisky, 40% Alc./Vol. Imported by Edrington Americas, New York, NY. Demonstrate your discernment, enjoy responsibly.

FLAVOURS  SEEDS OF GREATNESS

⅓ cup (80 mL) liquid honey 2 tbsp (30 mL) grated fresh ginger TOPPING 2 tbsp (30 mL) raw sunflower seeds 1 tbsp (15 mL) raw shelled hemp seeds 1 tsp (5 mL) whole or ground flax seeds

Sunflower seeds, hemp seeds and flax seeds add flavour, protein, omegas and crunch to these satisfying muffins. The honey and yo- gurt add moisture and a great taste, too, es- pecially with the fragrant punch of fresh gin- ger. Serve spread with softened butter, jam or marmalade. ½ cup (125 mL) raw sunflower seeds 1¼ cups (310 mL) whole-wheat flour 1 cup (250 mL) all-purpose flour ¼ cup (60 mL) raw shelled hemp seeds ¼ cup (60 mL) ground flax seeds 2 tsp (10 mL) baking powder ½ tsp (2 mL) baking soda ½ tsp (2 mL) salt 1 egg ⅓ cup (80 mL) granulated sugar 1½ cups (375 mL) plain yogurt (not fat-free or Greek) ⅓ cup (80 mL) butter, melted or vegetable oil

ingredients and stir just until evenly moist- ened. Spoon batter into prepared muffin pan, dividing equally. 5 For the topping, combine raw sunflower seeds, hemp seeds and flax seeds in a small bowl; sprinkle on top of batter. 6 Bake for 20 to 25 minutes or until golden and tops spring back when lightly touched. Let cool in pan on a wire rack for 10 minutes, then transfer to rack to cool completely. Makes 12 muffins WHAT TO SERVE  Forty Creek Spike Honey Spiced LCBO 397109, $28.95  Henry of Pelham Select Late Harvest Vidal VQA LCBO 395228, 375 mL, $19.95

1 Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C). Line 12-cup muffin pan with paper or parchment liners. 2 Spread sunflower seeds on a pie plate or baking sheet. Bake for about 8 minutes, stir- ring twice, or until seeds are lightly golden and toasted. Let cool. 3 Combine whole-wheat flour, all-purpose flour, toasted sunflower seeds, hemp seeds, flax seeds, baking powder, baking soda and salt in a large bowl; whisk to blend well. 4 In another bowl, whisk together egg, sugar, yogurt, butter, honey and ginger. Pour over dry

THREE-SEED GINGER HONEY MUFFINS

36  FOOD & DRI NK EARLY SUMMER 2017

Mionetto. More than just a Prosecco.

Since 1887, Mionetto in Northeast Italy’s enchanting Prosecco region has been writing its story, creating wines that captivate and inspire. The inimitable Mionetto style is expressed in this refined Prosecco Brut, with its seductive aromas and flavours of honey, golden apple and white peach.

Now Available at the LCBO.

LCBO #483339 $16.95

Follow us @MionettoProseccoCanada Please drink responsibly

DRINK  BEER SUMMER SHANDIES BY CHRIS JOHNS  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROB FIOCCA

A classic summer refreshment, the Shandy is due for an overhaul. Our expert suggests four different mixes designed to make the most of four different beer styles.

This is a take on a shandy that bartender Toby Maloney serves at Chicago’s Violet Hour bar. The combination of a bitter amaro, in this case Fernet Branca—a favourite with the beard-oil and skinny-jean crowd—and fresh orange juice acts as an anchor to the hop-forward char- acter of a good IPA. ORANGE, LEMON + IPA

COLLECTIVE ARTS RANSACK THE UNIVERSE IPA LCBO 450312, 473 mL, $3.35 Utilizing hops from as far away as Wash- ington State and Australia, this bold IPA’s orange and grapefruit aromas are underpinned by the fresh, clean scent of green pine needles. Just the thing to stand up to a bitter amaro like Fernet.

BREWDOG PUNK IPA LCBO 414946, 500 mL, $3.35

Oi! This Scottish brew is as spiky and in‑your-face as its name suggests. Smacking of intense tropical fruit aro- mas offset by toasty, resiny elements, this refreshing IPA is no shrinking violet and doesn’t shrink from being paired with something intense.

THIRSTY HIPSTER recipe on page 146

FOOD & DRI NK EARLY SUMMER 2017 39

BEER  SUMMER SHANDIES

Like two drinks in one, the grapefruit and Campari combina- tion in this shandy works well entirely on its own and also adds a level of sweet and herbaceous complexity when blended with a bright, crisp ale. The Campari definitely gives this drink some heft and a gorgeous chestnut amber hue that hints at its bright complexity. GRAPEFRUIT + ALE

GRAPEFRUIT ALE SHANDY recipe on page 146

IRON MAIDEN TROOPER ALE LCBO 348151, 500 mL, $4.30

Hard to resist pairing a heavy metal beer with something as light and refreshing as pink grapefruit juice. This golden brown ale’s fresh bread aromas are surprisingly well suited to the acidic sweetness of the grapefruit.

HOBGOBLIN ALE LCBO 435743, 500 mL, $3.55

This dark heavy malt’s toasted hazelnut, cara- melized sugar and toffee flavours combine with the sweet acidity of the juice as if they were made for each other. Must be some kind of hobgoblin sorcery.

40  FOOD & DRI NK EARLY SUMMER 2017

WELCOME TO THE BLOOM SHOW.

BloomStruck ® is the one-of-a-kind reblooming garden hydrangea that never ceases to impress. From spring to fall get gorgeous colorful blooms with minimal maintenance.

experience life in full bloom ™

©2017 Endless Summer/Bailey Nurseries, Inc.

BEER  SUMMER SHANDIES

Beer mixed with ginger beer is one of the earliest known versions of the shandy. Here, we use dark stout that under- pins the brew’s natural malty flavours with a tannic sweet- ness. The typical blend is half beer and half ginger beer, but doubling the quantity of beer ensures that the flavours of the stout aren’t overpowered. GINGER BEER + STOUT

YOUNG’S DOUBLE CHOCOLATE STOUT LCBO 486951, 500 mL, $3.50

With an obvious chocolate flavour and a back note of roasted coffee beans, this dark-as-night British brew from Young’s & Co. is an ideal choice to stand up to the grippy heat of a strong ginger beer.

RAILWAY CITY BLACK COAL STOUT LCBO 413781, 473 mL, $3.15

An American-style stout from a Canadian brewer, this beer is strong as a lumberjack and dark as a coal mine. The stout’s subtle chocolate, wood smoke and toffee flavours simultaneously elevate and harmonize with the ginger component.

STOUT AND STORMY recipe on page 146

42  FOOD & DRI NK EARLY SUMMER 2017

NOW YOU CAN SHOP ONLINE

BURLINGTON 29 Plains Rd. W. 905.681.3355 LONDON 314 Adelaide St. S. 519.685.0834 TORONTO 218 Merton St. 416.479.4499 MISSISSAUGA 3105 Winston Churchill Blvd. 905.569.1101 WATERLOO 330 Weber St. N. 519.747.3818 OTTAWA 1723 Carling Ave. 613.722.8795 CONTRACT SALES I.800.268.7328 ext. 258

shophauser. com

BEER  SUMMER SHANDIES

The floral, fruity elements of good top-fermented wheat beer are balanced here by a bright, citrusy limeade. Lemonade is a more traditional shandy pairing, but when considering the long tradition of sticking a slice of lime into a certain popular beer, it makes sense to expand the repertoire to include lime. LIMEADE + HEFEWEIZEN

HACKER-PSCHORR WEISSE BIER LCBO 247486, 500 mL, $3.35

LIME WEISS recipe on page 146

A classic, unfiltered example of the style from the German brewer Hacker-Pschorr. This beer’s playful aromas of banana and bubble gum, when paired with fresh lime- ade, result in a drink that’s bright and zesty.

ALL OR NOTHING HOPFENWEISSE LCBO 417543, 473 mL, $2.95

The distinct aromas of banana, coriander seed and preserved lemon in this Canadian craft brewery’s flagship brew take on an added complexity when partnered with limeade, somehow making lime juice taste limier and the wheat beer wheatier.

44  FOOD & DRI NK EARLY SUMMER 2017

food lovers

come find your Island

To the foodies, seafood worshippers, and fresh fanatics. To those who live to indulge and seek out their next new favourite. This is Canada’s Food Island. A remarkable destination where the bounties of land and sea fill every plate, at every table. Roll up your sleeves and dig in. Come find Prince Edward Island.

One amazing Island. Endless possibilities. Book your Prince Edward Island vacation today at ExplorePEI.com

Let us take you there with the most flights to Charlottetown. Book now at aircanada.com/PEI or contact your travel agent.

FOOD  ENTERTAINING

PLEASURES PARFAIT

BY ESHUN MOTT  •  PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROB FIOCCA

With all the celebratory occasions this time of year, make brunch special with parfaits—whether at the start or the end of a meal.

MATCHA MINT PANNA COTTA PARFAIT recipe on page 140

FOOD & DRI NK EARLY SUMMER 2017 47

ENTERTAINING  PARFAIT PLEASURES

SPRING PANZANELLA PARFAIT

4 Whisk together oil, vinegars, honey and mustard. Stir in shallot and season with salt and pepper to taste. 5 Divide radishes between 6 to 8 glasses and pour about 1 tbsp (15 mL) dressing into each. Add a layer of croutons then a layer of sugar snap peas. Crumble feta on top. Season with a small grind of fresh pepper. Drizzle about a ½ tsp (2 mL) of dressing overtop each glass

2 tsp (10 mL) grainy Dijon mustard 2 tbsp (30 mL) finely chopped shallot Salt and freshly ground pepper 7 oz (200 g) small radishes, trimmed, halved or quartered (2 to 3 bunches) ½ cup (125 mL) crumbled feta 2 tbsp (30 mL) coarsely chopped mint leaves, plus small sprigs and leaves to garnish 1 Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C). 2 For croutons, toss torn bread with olive oil and a pinch of salt. Spread out on a baking sheet in a single layer. Bake for 8 to 10 min­ utes or until crisp and lightly golden. Reserve. 3 Trim stem ends and remove strings from sugar snap peas. Blanch in boiling salted wa­ ter for 30 seconds or until bright green and tender-crisp. Drain and transfer to a bowl of ice water to stop them from cooking further. Drain and cut on the bias into 1-inch (2.5-cm) lengths. Reserve.

This bright and crunchy salad looks just as pretty as it tastes fresh. Look for radishes with healthy greens attached, as older radishes can become sharp and bitter tasting. Focaccia is the perfect bread for this version of panza­ nella as it makes crisp but light croutons. All the parts of this salad can be prepared ahead, but layer the salad in the glasses no more than about 30 minutes ahead of eating or the crou­ tons will begin to soften.

and top with mint. Makes 6 to 8 servings

4 slices focaccia, ½ inch (1 cm) thick, crusts removed, torn into small pieces, about 4 loose cups 4 tsp (20 mL) olive oil Salt 7 oz (200 g) sugar snap peas DRESSING ⅓ cup (80 mL) extra virgin olive oil

WHAT TO SERVE Santa Margherita Brut Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 687582, $18.95 Tio Pepe Extra Dry Fino LCBO 231829, $17.95

2 tbsp (30 mL) sherry vinegar 1 tbsp (15 mL) red wine vinegar 2 tsp (10 mL) honey

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GREAT TASTE

BEGINS WITH EXCEPTIONAL BEANS

EXPLORE OUR COFFEES

Bring home your favourite from the grocery store.

Whatever your taste, there’s a Starbucks ® coffee for you. Explore them all, from blonde to dark roasts ® and every Starbucks ® taste in between.

starbucks.ca/responsibility

© 2017 Starbucks Coffee Company. All rights reserved.

ENTERTAINING  PARFAIT PLEASURES

2 cups (500 mL) thick vanilla Greek yogurt (look for one with 10% MF) 2 bananas, peeled and sliced 2 to 3 kiwi fruit, peeled and sliced 1 cup (250 mL) blueberries 8 cape gooseberries to garnish 1 Preheat oven to 200°F (100°C). Line a bak- ing sheet with parchment paper. Set aside. 2 Combine egg whites and cream of tartar and beat with an electric mixer until you have soft peaks. Continue beating adding sugar a spoonful at a time until it is fully incorporated and dissolved (pinch a little to see if you feel any grittiness) and mixture is stiff and glossy. Beat in salt and vanilla. 3 Scrape meringue onto parchment paper and use a large offset spatula to spread it out as thinly as possible. Bake for 2 hours then turn the oven off and let it stand in the oven for 1 hour longer or until dry and crisp. Break into large pieces. 4 Combine the lemon juice, whole eggs, yolks, sugar and salt in a small heavy-bottom pot and whisk until uniform. Place pot over low heat and cook, stirring frequently and then constantly as mixture begins to thicken

There are a few steps involved in making this dessert, but lemon curd can be made well ahead of time, and the meringue can be made a day or two ahead of time as long as it is kept in an airtight container. If you haven’t made lemon curd before, you may want to cook it in the top of a double boiler to be sure it doesn’t curdle, but it is much quicker to make in a heavy-bottom pot.

(do not allow to boil or eggs will curdle). When mixture is thick (and registers 180°F/82°C) remove from heat and add butter, 1 piece at a time, stirring until each has melted before adding another. Strain curd into a clean bowl. Stir in lemon zest and cover with plastic wrap, pressing it into the surface of the curd to keep it from forming a skin as it cools. Chill in the refrigerator for 1 hour or until fully cooled. Lemon curd can be made up to a week ahead. Keep in the refrigerator and stir in passion- fruit pulp just before using. 5 Spoon about ¼ cup (60 mL) yogurt into each glass. Top with about ¼ cup (60 mL) prepared lemon and passion-fruit curd. Add sliced ba- nanas, kiwi and blueberries and insert a few pieces of meringue. Garnish each glass with

MERINGUE SHARDS 2 large egg whites, room temperature ¼ tsp (1 mL) cream of tartar ½ cup (125 mL) superfine sugar Pinch salt ¼ tsp (1 mL) vanilla

a cape gooseberry. Makes 8 servings

LEMON & PASSION-FRUIT CURD ⅔ cup (150 mL) fresh lemon juice 2 large eggs 4 large egg yolks ¾ cup (175 mL) sugar Pinch salt ½ cup (125 mL) unsalted butter, cut into 10 pieces 2 tbsp (30 mL) grated lemon zest Pulp of 4 ripe and wrinkled passion fruit, about ⅓ cup (80 mL)

WHAT TO SERVE  Kittling Ridge Icewine & Brandy

LCBO 558999, 375 mL, $19.95 Alize Gold Passion Liquor LCBO 338079, $26.05

TROPICAL LEMON & CREAM PARFAIT

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