LCBO Food & Drink Summer 2020

SUMMER 2020

The Summer Issue

COMPLIMENTS OF

Chargrilled Veggie Burger with Gourmet Buns

Mushroom Medley

Pub Fries

SUMMER’S HOT EXPERTLY FROZEN, ACTUALLY. BUT WE’RE CHILL.

Spinach and Cheese Flatbread

Four Bean Salad

Discover all the delicious favours of summer, just like you’d make at home — only prepared with care by us — and you get the glory. Shop your new family favourites in store or online with free same-day curbside pickup at mmfoodmarket.com.

SUPPORT A HOSPITAL DESIGNED TO KEEP PEOPLE OUT OF THE HOSPITAL. For over 100 years, Women’s College Hospital has been leading revolutionary advances in healthcare. As Ontario’s first outpatient hospital, we were designed to reimagine how healthcare services can be delivered. And today, we’re bringing virtual care into the mainstream to help those who need it most. Your donation will help us solve challenges that the system faces, so we can support those most at risk today and in the future.

PLEASE DONATE TODAY AT WCHF.CA TO HELP ADVANCE HEALTHCARE FOR ALL CANADIANS.

This message was shared thanks to the support of our friends at the LCBO.

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

Features

64 FIRE & ICE

64 FIRE & ICE By Eric Vellend

Edible and quaffable takes on hot and cold bring three grilled dishes and three frozen recipes together with delish results.

70 PACK A PUNCH By Crystal & Tara Luxmore

Five fresh recipes featuring beer and cider zing with flavour and suit the season perfectly.

76 BUBBLES & BITES By Charlene Rooke and Michelle Rabin

Make any day a special occasion— pair bright, bubbly beverages with appetizers you can dig right into. 84 MEATLESS GRILLS By Christopher St. Onge If you’re on the hunt for meatless grilling options—or have vegetarians at home—these plant- based recipes are so delicious even carnivores won’t miss the meat.

ON THE COVER Classic Mojito, recipe on page 48. Photography by Darren Kemper.

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FOOD & DRINK SUMMER 2020

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Departments

DRINK 45 basics COCKTAIL CLASSICS + By Christine Sismondo With our refresher for making classic cocktails—plus fresh summery twists—you’ll be whipping up drinks like a pro before you know it. 53 BEER SANDWICHES WITH SOURS By Tonia Wilson-Vuksanovic Still tracking as a trend, sour beer suits summer to a T—they’re perfect for a casual lunch alongside mouth-watering sandwiches.

91 LOCAL NIAGARA BOUND By Suresh Doss Armchair travels combine with future plans; our resident expert’s guide to fab finds in Niagara: up‑and-coming wineries, cool places to eat, must‑stop places to visit, and more. 107 SEASONAL PERFECT PRESENTS By Charlene Rooke with Brenda Morrison We can all use fresh gift ideas— even zoomweddings call for a present—and these bottles, given solo or alongside a little local treasure, offer just that.

45 COCKTAIL CLASSICS +

FOOD 35 SEASONAL FRUIT SALADS THAT DAZZLE By Eric Vellend

99 BUDGET bites CHICKEN ON A DIME By Christopher St. Onge

Not your gramma’s fruit salad—these five recipes take great flavour and good looks to a whole new level.

Bursting with deep flavour, chicken thighs make for delicious-tasting dishes at great value, and we’ve got four ways to prove it.

35

In every issue

127 RECIPE INDEX 128 ONTARIO MAKER SIMPLY BEAUTIFUL BASKETS By Brenda Morrison

10 EDITOR’S NOTES 15

INSIDE SCOOP By Eric Vellend The latest bits, bites and sips to keep you in the know.

Made-in-Collingwood baskets to store or display all your favourite things.

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SUMMER 2020 FOOD & DRINK

Coming next issue Autumn 2020

Market menu Easy dishes that let local flavours shine through

Toasting Ontario A roundup of our province’s great wines Mad for mushrooms Plant-based variations on comfort-food classics Easygoing Thanksgiving A casual approach to traditional flavours

Many of the products featured in this issue are available to purchase online at lcbo.com.

VP Marketing & Customer Intelligence Vanda Provato Editor Jody Dunn Art Directors Karen Lim

Production Coordinator Judy Haverkort Publication Assistant Piper MacFadyen Production Assistant

For general inquiries about Food & Drink magazine or information about LCBO products and policy please contact helloLCBO online at hellolcbo.com, or call toll-free 800•668•5226 or 416•365•5900. TTY Only: 416•864•6898 or 800•361•3291. All advertiser applications are subject to the terms and conditions of the LCBO’s advertising agreement. Food & Drink is published five times a year by the Liquor Control Board of Ontario. Volume 27, Number 5. Food & Drink is printed on paper that contains 10 percent post‑consumer fibre. Food & Drink is recyclable in communities participating in magazine recycling programs.

Everton Smith Food Stylists Michael Elliott, Eshun Mott, Christopher St. Onge Prop Stylists Christine Hanlon, Catherine MacFadyen, Andrea McCrindle, Shelly Shnier Contributors Anna Kohn, Crystal Luxmore, Tara Luxmore, Brenda Morrison, Michelle Rabin, Christine Sismondo, Christopher St. Onge, Tonia Wilson-Vuksanovic Publisher Wayne Leek Advertising Sales Kirby Miller, Beaches Media Services kirby@beachesmediaservices.com

Cathy Cicchini Drinks Editor Charlene Rooke

Food Editor Eric Vellend Content Editors Suresh Doss Victoria Walsh Publication Coordinators

Publication Mail Agreement No. 40064521 Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Food & Drink , 55 Lake Shore Boulevard East, Toronto, ON, M5E 1A4 ISSN 1195-5988

Not all of the wines, spirits and beers mentioned in Food & Drink will be available at all LCBO stores. Prices are subject to change without notice. Cette publication est également disponible en français.

Leslie Bolter Margot Blais

Graphic Designers Dominique Patafio Pat Turbach

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SUMMER 2020 FOOD & DRINK

LCBO NOTES

From our President & CEO

Dear friends,    Welcome to the Summer issue of Food & Drink . As always, it’s our chance to celebrate the longed-for season in our beautiful province, even if this year’s summer festivities are not all we might wish them to be. The pandemic continues to disrupt our lives—and yet there is reason to be optimistic. Until things return to normal, we can still look forward to enjoying small gatherings at home this summer and support our many wonderful local producers, businesses and restaurants in every way possible.    A new issue of our magazine also gives me the opportunity to thank you, our customers, for your understanding when shopping with us over the last few months. I’m proud of what the LCBO team has been able to accomplish to keep you and our dedicated staff safe, but we could not have done it without your patient cooperation. We are continuing to develop new ways to serve you better during these unprecedented times, including expanding our same-day pickup service to give customers more options.

   We are all in this together, and dialogue and communication are more important than ever. So we really appreciated seeing the comments that so many of our readers sent in about our Early Summer issue and how it provided a reprieve during the weeks of lockdown. The Food & Drink team always does a terrific job and I hope this issue gives you as much enjoyment as ever. On behalf of them and of everyone at the LCBO, may I wish you a safe and healthy summer.

George Soleas President & CEO, LCBO

To find out more about what the LCBO is doing to keep you safe, visit lcbo.com.

PORTRAIT BY JAMES TSE

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FOOD & DRINK SUMMER 2020

EDITOR’S NOTES

At last, summer is here!

The warm weather has arrived and it’s time for us to head outdoors for the next few months. We are eager to start enter- taining, but the ways in which we’ll be able to do that are still uncertain, so adapt- ability and scalability will be key. As with Early Summer Food & Drink , much of this issue was in development when COVID-19 hit, but we’ve had a bit more time to look at stories that were already developed and photographed and see how they could be reworked to suit our present lifestyle. For example, you’ll find five deliciously fresh punch recipes starting on page 70. They’re meant for times when you’re host- ing a crowd, but why not mix up a batch and keep it in the fridge? Just add the fin- ishing touches at cocktail hour and it will last you all week. The scrumptious recipes featured in “Bubbles & Bites” (page 76) make the easiest-ever party appetizers, but any of them could also double as a quick dinner for two, especially on nights when it’s too hot to cook. And despite the current challenges, you are likely still looking for thoughtful gifts, even if big gatherings are on hold and the gifts have to be dropped off on porches, decks or patios. Check out page 107 for the latest, greatest ideas. When it comes to food, whether you serve it at breakfast, lunch, dinner—or for dessert—does anything taste more like summer than a fresh, juicy fruit salad? Any of the options in our story starting on page 35 are worthy of your attention. No matter what, we know you will be grilling in the weeks ahead, and if you’re looking to spend a little less, consider chicken

thighs (page 99)—they’re versatile, packed with flavour and always great value. Or for those who prefer to avoid meat for any reason, we have a whole story’s worth of delicious meatless grills for the BBQ, start- ing on page 84. Getting out and about is normally one of the great pleasures of summer and we’ve highlighted plenty of don’t-miss destinations, some in Niagara (page 91), and others—with ice cream lovers in mind—all across the province, starting on page 22. We couldn’t be sure before our deadlines if they will be fully or even partly open quite yet, but we wanted to share these gems—either to visit now (hopefully!) or to add to your future travel wish-list. And last but not least, with this issue we are delighted to welcome to our mast- head and to our pages our new editorial team of Food Editor Eric Vellend, Drinks Editor Charlene Rooke, and Content Editors Suresh Doss and Victoria Walsh. Most of them will be familiar to you as longtime contributors to Food & Drink , but they will now have a hand in the devel- opment of our stories for each issue from initial brainstorming through to our digital and social experiences. We hope you enjoy the issue and have a safe and happy summer!

PORTRAIT BY JAMES TSE

Beyond print Stay connected with us through

@lcbofoodanddrink

our social channels for timely content and any updates on issue release dates. And don’t forget our digital issues can be accessed through lcbo.com/fddigital.

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LCBO

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SUMMER 2020 FOOD & DRINK

J U S T SWE E T E N O U G H

NEW: SNAPPLE SPIKED SPARKLING LEMON ICED TEA

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d t d f t v , tu f v u , and ‘spiked’ with vodka.

PLEASE DRINK RESPONSIBLY *Trademark used under license by Canada Dry MottÕs Inc.

Advertising Feature

Four sensational summer salads starring Ontario-grown greenhouse vegetables

The Essential Village Salad Serves 4 to 6

1 lb (455 g) mixed ripe Ontario greenhouse tomatoes (heirlooms can add a punch of colour!) 4 Ontario greenhouse mini cucumbers (or 2/3 Ontario greenhouse English cucumber) 1 Ontario greenhouse pepper (be as colourful as you want!)

1/3 cup (80 mL) thinly sliced red onion

1 tbsp (15 mL) chopped flat-leaf parsley

3 tbsp (45 mL) extra-virgin olive oil

2 tbsp (30 mL) red wine vinegar

Salt and pepper to taste

Cut tomatoes into wedges. Cut cherry and grape tomatoes in half. Slice cucumbers on bias. (If using English cucumber, halve lengthwise first.) Cut pepper into bite-size pieces. Place vegetables in large mixing bowl with onion and parsley. Drizzle with oil and vinegar. Season with salt and pepper. Mix thoroughly. Transfer to serving dish.

Suggested pairing: Trius Sauvignon Blanc, LCBO# 221804, $15.95

G k

Greek: Omit parsley, and arrange vegetables on serving platter. Drizzle with oil and vinegar. Season with salt and pepper. Top with 1 cup (250 mL) cubed feta, 1/2 cup (125 mL) pitted kalamata olives and 1 tsp (5 mL) dried oregano. (Alternately, toss everything together in bowl.) Middle Eastern: Cut vegetables into 3/4-inch (2-cm) pieces, substitute fresh lemon juice for vinegar, and omit parsley. Add 2 green onions thinly sliced on bias and 1/4 cup (60 mL) chopped mint. Spread 1-lb (455 g) container hummus on bottom of serving platter. Gently stir 1 cup (250 mL) pita chips broken into 1-inch (2.5-mm) pieces into salad then mound on top of hummus. Sprinkle with large pinch of sumac (optional). West Coast: Seed tomatoes and cucumbers (if desired), and cut vegetables into 1/2-inch (1-cm) pieces. Substitute fresh lime juice for vinegar and omit parsley. Add 1/3 cup (80 mL) diced white onion, 1 finely chopped jalapeno and 3/4 lb (340 g) chopped cooked shrimp. Cover and refrigerate salad at least 1 hour. Before serving, stir in 1 diced ripe avocado and 1/4 cup (60 mL) chopped cilantro.

Suggested pairing: Malivoire Gamay, LCBO# 591313, $19.95

“FROM THE FARM TO THE KITCHEN, YOU APPRECIATE HOW MANY PEOPLE IT TRULY TAKES TO MAKE A GREAT DISH POSSIBLE.” - Anthony Greco, Chef and General Manager Hillfire SMK & BBQ, Niagara Region

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Suggested pairing: Sprucewood Shores Pinot Grigio, LCBO# 426577, $14.95

Suggested pairing: Tawse Sketches of Niagara Rosé, LCBO# 172643, $17.95

IT TAKES A COMMUNITY to make a village salad, starting with the Ontario greenhouse farmer. Using the controlled environment, they grow the highest quality tomatoes, peppers, and cucumbers. When it’s time to harvest, skilled workers cruise the rows, picking and packing the pristine vegetables. Truck drivers then

deliver the produce across the province and beyond. Finally, our frontline grocery teams beautifully display the local bounty before you fill your cart. Enjoy these summery salads and raise a glass to all the wonderful people who helped put Ontario greenhouse vegetables onto your plate.

Want to learn more? Try our 360 VR experience at greenhousegoodness.com!

INSIDE SCOOP

Inside scoop The latest bits, bites and sips to keep you in the know.

16 What to do with kimchi 16 Red wine and chill after the freshest Ontario fish, the best local ice cream shops, or anything in between, this section will give your al fresco lifestyle a serious upgrade this summer. Planning a backyard picnic? Got vegans in your household clamouring for a BBQ? Looking to up your lemonade game? We’ve got you covered. Whether you’re 20 Starting pitcher 20 Make life more of a picnic 22 9 stand-out ice cream spots 24 Gone fishin’ 24 Spirit of Oaxaca 24 Who to follow 26 The buzz on honey 28 The grass is greener 28 Bundt club 28 Summer brining 30 Cooking on airbnb 30 Take a ’shine 30 Life of pie 18 Lighten up 18 Shreds up 18 Sundae best

By Eric Vellend | PHOTOGRAPHY by Vince Noguchi, Darren Kemper & James tse

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Sundae best 18

32 Planting ideas 32 Eight is enough

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FOOD & DRINK SUMMER 2020

INSIDE SCOOP

We asked Christopher Sealy, wine director at the Toronto-based Alo Food Group of award-winning restaurants, to suggest three styles of red wine that benefit from chilling. He emphasizes they should be cool, but not “too cold as to eliminate the aromas.” Pop the bottle in the fridge for an hour and go from there. Red wine and chill BAR SNOOP

What to do with kimchi Now that kimchi has hit the mainstream, it’s time to work this spicy pickled cabbage into your repertoire. Beyond its ubiquity in Korean cooking, it’s a delicious hot dog condi- ment paired with ketchup. It’s also terrific chopped up inside a mozzarella-based quesa- dilla. Or try it in our piquant Kimchi Devilled Eggs (recipe at lcbo.com/fdsummer20).

“ Cabernet Franc from France’s Loire Valley is a great wine to try lightly chilled. Fresh, savoury and dark berry aromas and flavours will leap out of the glass. Appel- lations to look for are Saumur or Bourgueil, and Chinon will do fine, as well. These wines are also great for the red wine drinker taking baby steps towards rosé!”

“ Pinot Noir from Germany, France

“Whether it’s Old World Beaujolais or from our own backyard in Niagara, Gamay is a seriously made wine, yet loads of fun. With red berry flavours and gentle tannins, it’s a wine that keeps you coming back for more. Per- fect for a backyard picnic.”

and, of course, Prince Edward County, are usually bright, fruit- driven wines. A slight chill gives the wine a tone like fresh-picked, sun-ripened strawber- ries and raspberries.”

PORTRAIT BY NIKKI LEIGH MCKEAN

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SUMMER 2020 FOOD & DRINK

LEGENDARY CAESAR TASTE SINCE 1969

NEW: SWEET & SPICY CAESAR

Tropical mango taste balanced with a kick of chili pepper for a unique twist on the classic Caesar.

PLEASE DRINK RESPONSIBLY *Trademark used under license by Canada Dry Mott’s Inc.

INSIDE SCOOP

EASY desserts Sundae best

With a scoop of ice cream, ripe seasonal fruit and a splash of wine or liqueur, you can whip up an impressive dessert in a flash. Here are three ideas for adults-only sundaes:

Vanilla ice cream + Blueberries + Crème de cassis

Lighten up TRENDSPOTTING

Tired of bracingly bitter IPAs? Puckering sours not your thing? Then you’re in luck. Ontario craft brewers are finally focusing their energy and creativity on easy-drinking lagers. Check out some new additions to the beer shelf including the crisp, refreshing Refined Fool Ontario Craft Lager (LCBO 15880, 473 mL, $2.95) from Sarnia or the citrusy, juniper-scented Flying Monkeys Wonderstar Botanical Lager (LCBO 574400, 473 mL, $3.35) from Barrie.

Chocolate ice cream + Diced fresh figs + Coffee liqueur

Shop online for products.

KITCHEN HACK

Shreds up If you have a stand mixer, then you’ve got a sous chef to help you pull chicken in a flash. Remove skin and bones, tear into large pieces, place warm in the bowl with the paddle attach- ment. In under a minute you’ll have shredded meat for salads, sandwiches or tacos. This technique also makes quick work of canned tuna or salmon when you need larger quanti- ties for sandwich fillings.

Lemon sorbet + Sliced strawberries + Moscato

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INSIDE SCOOP

DRINK OF THE SEASON Starting pitcher

EXPERT ADVICE Make life more of a picnic To plan a backyard picnic, we’ve enlisted Sheila Whyte, owner of Thyme & Again (thymeandagain.ca), an Ottawa-based caterer with two locations, for some inside tips. First off, howdo you avoid soggy sandwiches? Use thicker buns and wraps instead of sliced bread. We insulate our sandwiches with thicker dips, which helps create a barrier between the bread and all the other ingredients. Or build your sandwiches in the backyard and skip sogginess all together! What’s the best way to keep cold things cold? Use an insulated bag and some key placement of cold items around your proteins. Try freezing ice cubes with chopped mint or edible flowers and fill up a Mason jar with lemonade. Looks beautiful, helps avoid trips into the house. What are the best sustainable tableware options to use? Reusable plates and cutlery keep waste minimal, and for a backyard picnic, that’s easy. Bamboo is a great solution too—over single-use plastics. Place salads and beverages in Mason jars, and use reusable food wrap for leftovers. Any other picnic tips to share? Bring a portable speaker to add a fun soundtrack and make sure you have a large colourful bedspread to stretch out on with lots of pillows.

Sweet, tart and refreshing, an icy glass of lemon- ade hits the spot during a heat wave like nothing else. Get started with our Classic Lemonade (page 119) then amp things up with any one of our simple, fun twists below.

ElderBerry sparkle

Gin-Cuke Add 3/4 cup (175 mL) gin to finished lemonade. Garnish each glass with thin cucumber rounds.

Julep Add 3/4 cup (175 mL) bourbon to finished

Substitute sparkling elderflower water for water. Garnish with fresh raspberries.

lemonade. Garnish each glass with a mint sprig.

Lemon twists

PORTRAIT BY MICHELLE VALBERG

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Available at a grocery store near you.

INSIDE SCOOP

9 stand‑out ice cream spots Ontario has no shortage of must-try scoops. We’ve rounded up favourites frommemory‑lane classics to unexpected surprises. With local businesses having to get creative this year, be sure to look them up to see how they’re operating this summer.

Pom Pom Treat Hut, Thornbury The owners of this quaint walk-up-window shop say it’s located near the best pier jump in South Georgian Bay. For the next best way to cool off in the area, you can enjoy delectable frozen desserts such as their house-made Wheelie ice pops or ice cream sandwiches and scoops (from London Ice Cream Company). They also make their own vegan ice creams with flavours like Sour Cherry Swirl and Pumpkin Pie. All served in compostable dishes.

By Victoria Walsh

Mio Gelato, Kingston Here, the focus is on making gelato using prime locally grown fare. For instance, Mio Gelato stockpiles in-season berries to whip up delights like Strawberry Sorbetto or lemon raspberry throughout the year. Look for weekly specials like Blueberry Kale, Caramelized Peach and Cinnamon Latte.

BELLY ICE CREAM BY MARK REEDER; MIO GELATO BY ROB WHELAN; SHAW’S BY JUNIPER J PHOTOGRAPHY

Shaw’s Ice Cream and Dairy Bar, St. Thomas Opened in 1948, Shaw’s is an institution. It has loads of delicious classic flavours— Key Lime Pie, Tiger Stripe and Rainbow Sorbet. Just try to walk out with one scoop! Fun fact: our editor, Jody Dunn, swears by the Orange Pineapple!

Belly Ice Cream, Huntsville This spot prides itself on making artisanal ice cream using local ingredients, sometimes foraged and prepared by chefs. Look for garden mint with dark chocolate chip, Rhubarb Ginger or Wild Blueberry Lavender. And through the window in the shop, catch a glimpse of these small-batch ice creams being made while you enjoy a cone.

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SUMMER 2020 FOOD & DRINK

Slickers Ice Cream, Bloomfield and Picton With two locations in the area, Slickers is well known for being the place to go in Prince Edward County. Its s’mores‑inspired Campfire Cream is a top seller. Devout frozen treat fans revel in ice cream bliss with Sweet Taco and Panini incarnations.

Moo Shu Ice Cream & Kitchen, Ottawa

Wong’s Ice Cream& Store, Toronto With so many great ice cream choic- es, selecting a Toronto spot was no easy task. But this Asian-themed ice cream store offers tasty flavours you’re not likely to find elsewhere— think Oolong Watermelon Sorbet, Vietnamese Coffee and Black Sesame Salted Duck Egg.

This café and ice cream shop whips up small-batch ice creams incorporating goods from Ottawa makers and farmers including tasty vegan options. Try treats like this Honey Bun Dipped Bar made with honey me- ringues folded into bread yeast ice cream. And watch for their seasonal ice cream pies, sandwiches and bubble waffle cones.

Hometown IceCream, St. Catharines

This cute shop’s Instagram feed is filled with treat-spiration from macarons and pretzels to colour- fully sprinkled desserts and even breakfast-cereal-topped pints. Stop by for scoops that feature locally sourced ingredients without artificial flavourings or preservatives. Look for Hometown’s specialty Niagara-centric sorbets made with different wine varietals from 13th Street Winery.

Hewitt’s Dairy Bar, Hagersville A step into this dairy bar is like walking into a time cap- sule—nostalgia abounds, especially for me since it’s the same spot my grandparents used to take us grandkids to for a special treat (strawberry, please). Its long history and loyal following can be attributed to its delicious dairy. Nowadays, Hewitt’s also offers goats’-milk ice creams and sugar-free options, too.

WONG’S PHOTO BY FAREEN KARIM

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FOOD & DRINK SUMMER 2020

INSIDE SCOOP

Like blanco tequila with a smoky kick

Gone fishin’ LOCAL ROUNDUP

Yellow Perch Many Ontarians have fond memories of visiting Port Dover or Port Stanley and enjoying fish and chips made from freshly caught yellow perch. Its white flesh is lean and firm with a mild taste. Dredge it in cornmeal and quickly fry. Pickerel Sometimes called walleye, pick- erel is found in lakes all over Ontario. Its meat has a firm, flaky texture with a sweet, mild flavour. Try it pan-fried or baked. Jennifer Johnston, owner of Fisherfolk (fisherfolk.ca), a Toronto-based seafood shop and distributor, on what to look for this summer. Whitefish From the deeper and colder parts of the Great Lakes, white- fish has white flesh with large flakes and a high fat content, which makes is adaptable for many cooking methods, espe- cially smoking. Lake Trout Lake trout’s texture, flavour and high omega-3 fatty acid count are very similar to that of salmon. It’s excellent for smoking or stuffing with lemon and herbs, cooked whole on the barbecue. Ontario is home to the largest commercial fresh water fishery in North America, with the bulk caught in Lake Erie. Here’s

TRENDSPOTTING

Spirit of Oaxaca Like tequila’s brash cousin, mezcal has become the darling of bartenders due to its smoky complexity and small-scale production. Here’s the 411 on Mexico’s unique spirit. How does mezcal differ from tequila? While they are both agave-based spirits, the key difference is fire: to make mezcal, the agave hearts are roasted in a pit, giving them a distinct smokiness that com- plements the floral and vegetal notes. Then there’s the type of agave: tequila must be made from blue agave, whereas mezcal

can use any variety. Finally, geog- raphy: most tequila is produced in the state of Jalisco; the bulk of mezcal comes from Oaxaca. How do you drink it? Forget about that salt and lime business, mezcal is a premium spirit. Enthusiasts sip it neat, at room temperature, either in a veladora glass (the lovechild of a lowball and a shot glass) or a small clay bowl called a copita. What can you mix with it? Neat-drinking aside, mezcal is surprisingly mixable. It’s terrif-

ic with grapefruit, orange or pineapple—juices or soda. Try swapping mezcal for gin to create a Negroni with attitude. Mezcal has an affinity for Aperol, which you can experience in our Mezcal Margarita on page 119. Finally, to temper mezcal’s smokiness there are two tricks: cut it with tequila or add Peychaud’s bitters.

OUR PICKS Sombra JovenMezcal LCBO 549030, $60.20 MeteoroMezcal Joven LCBO 549006, $74.85

Whether you’re on Twitter or Instagram, follow our new content editor, Suresh Doss, for a round-the-world tour of cuisine right here in Ontario. From the best empanadas to “pocket” sandwiches, Doss has a knack for finding affordable, family-run, off-the-radar restaurants in Toronto, the GTA and beyond. (Check out his delicious finds in Niagara on page 91.) Who to follow: @Suresh

PORTRAIT BY RYAN FAIST; FOOD PHOTO BY SURESH DOSS

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INSIDE SCOOP

A lot of work goes into a jar of honey. To learn more, we asked Priscilla Everett, a Brockville-based beekeeper and owner of Made by Bees (madebybees.ca), for an inside look at the wonderful world of bees. The buzz on honey EXPERT ADVICE

Why do beesmake honey? To have a source of food in the cooler months when they’re unable to forage for nectar and pollen. Due to its acidity and lowmoisture content, honey keeps indefi- nitely. Howmany bees does it take tomake a jar of honey? A single female worker bee produces 1 / 12 tsp of honey during her lifetime. The average yield of a well-managed, mature hive in Ontario—roughly 70,000 bees—is 80 to 100 lbs of honey per season.

Howdo local flowers affect the colour and flavour of honey? In Ontario, bees feed upon flowers including clover, alfalfa, buckwheat, goldenrod and basswood. In general, light-coloured and mild-tasting honey is harvested early in the season when they are feeding on things like clover. As the season progresses, the colour deepens and the flavour becomes bolder and stronger. Buckwheat honey is quite strong. What can youuse it for? Buckwheat honey is dark like molasses and rich in taste with a distinctive malty flavour. It’s great in baked goods and makes an especially tasty barbe- cue sauce.

What is beeswax and what are its uses? Beeswax is secreted by young worker bees; they chew and shape it to create hexagonal honeycomb cells then cap the cells with wax once they’re filled with honey. When a beekeeper harvests honey, the caps are removed and filtered to make beeswax. It’s used for candles, cray- ons, cosmetics, polishes, conditioners and reusable food wraps. How important are bees to ourworld? Honeybees pollinate a third of the crops we eat, including tree nuts, stone fruit and many other fruits and vegetables. In Ontario alone, bees are re- sponsible for $170-million worth of crops each year.

How to use honey in cocktails

Honey is delicious in a wide range of drinks, however it needs to be thinned first to mix properly. Simply whisk two parts honey and one part warm water, and refrigerate up to a month. Swap it in for simple syrup in a Whisky Sour and you’ve got a Gold Rush. Use it to sweeten a Scotch Old Fashioned, or try it in a classic gin-based sipper called the Bee’s Knees (recipe at lcbo.com/fdsummer20).

PORTRAIT, HONEYCOMB AND SMOKER BY ELENORA LUBERTO/JEMMAN PHOTOGRAPHY; PERSON USING SMOKER BY MITCHELL BEATTIE

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SUMMER 2020 FOOD & DRINK

INSIDE SCOOP

WORTH the splurge?

The grass is greener

Compared to regular butter, grass-fed carries a hefty premium. Is it worth it? Here in Ontario: yes. Made from the milk of cows raised mostly on pasture, grass-fed gives you the opportunity to try distinctive butters from only a few herds, in some cases just one. Among our favourite local brands, Emerald Grasslands Grass-Fed Butter ($9.50/250 g, mamaearth.ca) has a gorgeous deep yellow colour and a sublimely smooth texture. Thornloe Grass Fed Butter ($6.29/250 g, thehealthybutcher.ca) has an earthy, almost cheesy flavour and gets bonus points for value. While these butters are too pric- ey for chocolate chip cookies, they’re wonderful smeared on baguette or slathered on corn. Bundt club Used mostly for coffee cake, a Bundt pan moon- lights in summer as a clever tool for taking corn off the cob. Simply steady it on the counter with a wet towel, then place the corn, raw or cooked, perpendicular to the pan with its tip in the hole. Using a sharp knife, cut down along the cob and the kernels will fall right into the pan for salads, salsas or succotash. kitchen hack

More commonly used for fried chicken or holiday roasts, brining usually gets the cold shoulder in summer. Let’s change that. Brining is a wonderful way to inject deep flavour and seasonings into chicken, pork and even fish before they hit the grill. Get your brine on with salty-sweet Huli-Huli Chicken & Pineapple or Brine-Smoked Salmon with Potato Salad & Green Tartar Sauce. Recipes at lcbo.com/fdsummer20. Summer brining

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IT’S NOT EASY

MAKING SOMETHING THIS SIMPLE.

MUST BE LEGAL DRINKING AGE. 90 CALORIES PER 355 ML CAN.

INSIDE SCOOP

TRAVEL TIPS Cooking on airbnb

Cooks a pizza in just 1 minute!

If you had to cancel a big trip this summer, you can still immerse yourself in far-away food and culture with an intimate virtual cooking class. Through airbnb (airbnb.ca/experiences) learn how to make everything from pasta taught by a nonna in Rome, to scratch tortillas in Mexico, to the perfect cup of tea in Japan. A staycation never tasted so good!

Test Drive

Life of pie It is now possible to own a backyard pizza oven without taking out a loan and hiring a stonemason. One of the more handsome models is this sleek number from Ooni. Using efficient wood pellets, it can reach 932 ° F in 10 minutes and cook a pizza in a minute flat. Using a cast-iron skillet, you can also add wood-fired flavour to steaks, chops and fish. The removable chimney and col- lapsible legs make it easy to pack up. Ooni Uuni 3 Wood-Fired Pizza Oven, $379.99, cookstore.ca

Take a ’shine TRENDSPOTTING

When the Ontario Temperance Act went into effect in 1916, distillers had to retreat to rural areas and work their trade by the light of the moon. Since aging was too risky, moonshine was sold clear or flavoured with other ingredients. A recent wave of small, local distillers has revived the moonshine industry with unique spirits—this time made legally, of course. For a classic unaged whisky using locally grown corn, rye and barley, try Reunion 100 Proof Moonshine (LCBO 520692, $33.75)—it’s terrific mixed with lemonade and served alongside slow-smoked barbecue. Another grill-friendly option is sweet, savoury Top Shelf Distillers Tom Green Maple Bacon Moonshine (LCBO 645887, $29.95), which is excellent in a highball with ginger beer. For dessert, try pouring Murphy’s Law Apple Pie Moonshine (LCBO 465419, $30.50) over ice, and pair with butter tarts.

Shop online for products.

AIRBNB IMAGE COURTESY OF AIRBNB; OONI PIZZA OVEN COURTESY OF OONI PIZZA OVENS

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INSIDE SCOOP

FAUX BETTER

Planting ideas

Reusable and ready to fill with new favourites

The Beyond Meat burger became a media darling when A&W launched it as its vegetarian option a few years ago. The burger is the tastiest of the meatless patties and it mimics ground beef with aplomb. Serve it up fast-food style with ketchup, pickles and cheese or, for vegans, top it with arugula, grilled mushrooms and pesto. Beyond Meat Beyond Burger, $7.00 (2 x 113 g), loblaws.ca Grilling for a vegetarian used to cause a panic. Today there are many new plant-based options to throw on the BBQ. Here are two of our favourites.

Field Roast’s “simulated sausages” are a great-tasting spin on Mexican chorizo. Robustly seasoned with a remarkably similar texture to fresh meat sausage, it’s a bit spicy on its own. However, it’s fantastic on a bun with sour cream, fried onions and cilantro, or sliced up on a corn tortilla with guacamole and shaved cabbage. Field Roast Mexican Chipotle Sausage, $8.99 (4 x 92 g), Sobeys

WHAT’S NEW Eight is enough

The LCBO just made it easier to sample the huge selection of beers, ciders and wines in a can, as well as ready-to-drink cocktails. Now in over 400 stores across the province, the new 8-pack carrier is reusable and recyclable. Grab one and fill ’er up with any one of these new drinks.

Nude Gin Soda Mixed Berry LCBO 14666, 473 mL, $3.00

Pink House Wine Co. Rosé VQA LCBO 15499, 250 mL, $4.95 Huckle Jack Lager LCBO 15884, 473 mL, $2.85

Coors Organic LCBO 15186, 473 mL, $3.30 Great Canadian Cider Company Organic Cranberry LCBO 15547, 473 mL, $5.85

Bollicini Sparkling Cuvée LCBO 647792, 250 mL, $4.95 Okanagan Harvest Pear LCBO 15299, 473 mL, $3.15

Great Lakes Brewery HazeMama LCBO 14812, 473 mL, $3.50

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THE CHOICE IS CLEAR .

473mL TALL CANS

NOW AVAILABLE AT THE LCBO

MUST BE LEGAL DRINKING AGE. PLEASE ENJOY RESPONSIBLY.

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EVERY BOTTLE SOLD HELPS PROTECT 5 FT 2 OF ECOLOGICALLY SIGNIFICANT LAND IN CANADA

NORTHERNKEEP.CA @NORTHERNKEEPVODKA

® of Alberta Distillers Limited Calgary, Canada.

SEASONAL

Five fresh recipes that take flavour and good looks to a whole new level. Fruit salads that dazzle BY ERIC VELLEND | Photography by darren kemper

The modern fruit salad has done away with the kitchen-sink approach— we’re looking at you, fruit cup. Instead, it focuses on a smaller selection of ripe, peak-season fruit accented with vibrant dressings, fresh herbs and crunchy garnishes. Catch this new wave with any one of our five recipes, sweet or savoury, and you’ll never look at fruit salad the same way again.

MANGO AND GRILLED PINEAPPLE SALADWITH COCONUT-LIME DRESSING

Recipe on page 124

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FRUIT SALADS THAT DAZZLE

PLUM AND PARMIGIANO SALADWITH RED-WINE- FENNEL SYRUP

The lovechild of a cheese course and dessert finds ripe plums and nutty Parmesan drizzled with a vibrant syrup of red wine, honey and fennel seeds. Think about this salad well in advance so the plums have a chance to ripen, and if your budget allows, splurge on Parmigiano-Reggiano that’s been aged at least 36 months. 1 small ripe black plum, about 3 oz (85 g), diced 1/4 cup (60 mL) red wine 1/4 cup (60 mL) honey 1 tbsp (15 mL) red wine vinegar 2 tsp (10 mL) whole fennel seeds 1 1/2 lbs (680 g) mixed ripe plums 3 oz (85 g) Parmigiano-Reggiano (at room temperature), broken into 1/2-inch (1-cm) chunks Freshly ground black pepper to taste 1 In a small saucepan, bring black plum, wine, honey and vinegar to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce to a simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes. Fine strain into another small saucepan, pressing solids to extract syrup. (Discard solids.) Stir in fennel seeds, cover, and let stand 30 minutes. Remove lid and cool to room temperature. Transfer to a glass jar. Cover and refrigerate up to 1 month. 2 Halve and pit plums. Cut into wedges and slices, and arrange on a serving platter. Arrange Parmigiano over plums. Drizzle generously with syrup, saving the rest for another use. Season lightly with pepper.

Serves 4

WHAT TO SERVE

Aromas of cherry, leather and spice carry into the flavours of this extra-dry medium-bodied Tuscan red. Its earthy fruit embraces the salty Parmigiano and contrasts nicely with the fennel. Carpineto Dogajolo Rosso Toscano IGT LCBO 361501, $16.95

PLUMS OFTEN NEED RIPENING TIME ON THE COUNTER TO BECOME SOFT, JUICY AND FRAGRANT.

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FRUIT SALADS THAT DAZZLE

This savoury fruit salad gives fragrant melon and crunchy cukes some Latin flair with queso fresco, spicy pumpkin seeds and a zesty lime dressing. If you can’t find queso fresco (a mild, white cheese available at Latin American food shops and select cheesemongers), use ricotta salata or feta instead. SPICED PEPITAS 1/2 cup (125 mL) hulled pumpkin seeds 1/2 tsp (2 mL) extra virgin olive oil 1/2 tsp (2 mL) smoked paprika 1/4 tsp (1 mL) ground chipotle powder Salt to taste SALAD 1/4 cup (60 mL) extra virgin olive oil 2 tbsp (30 mL) fresh lime juice 1 tsp (5 mL) agave syrup or honey Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 1/2 large ripe cantaloupe (about 2 lbs/1 kg), peeled, seeded 4 mini cucumbers, sliced on bias 1/4-inch (5-mm) thick 4 oz (115 g) queso fresco, crumbled Cilantro leaves to garnish Large lime wedge 1 For the spiced pepitas, place pumpkin seeds in a medium fry- ing pan over medium heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned and beginning to pop, about 5 minutes. Remove pan from heat and stir in 1/2 tsp (2 mL) olive oil to coat. Add spices and salt, and stir 30 seconds. Transfer to a plate to cool completely. Transfer to an airtight container. (Store in a cool, dry place up to 1 month.) CANTALOUPE & CUCUMBER SALAD WITH QUESO FRESCO & SPICED PEPITAS

salt and pepper. Drizzle with dressing and gently mix. Ar­ range on a shallow serving platter. Sprinkle with cheese, some pepitas (save the rest for another use) and cilantro. Squeeze lime wedge over salad and serve.

2 For the salad, whisk 1/4 cup (60 mL) olive oil, lime juice, agave or honey, salt and pepper in a small mixing bowl until combined. Set aside. 3 Cut cantaloupe into 3/4-inch (2-cm) wedges. Cut each wedge crosswise into 4 pieces. Place in a large mixing bowl with cu­ cumber. Season to taste with

WHAT TO SERVE

Flavours of cream and hazelnut in this vibrant, slightly off-dry wine reach out to the queso while the wine’s bounti- ful peach, pear and mango aromas are a great match with the cantaloupe. Bougrier Vouvray Chenin Blanc LCBO 253229, $16.30

Serves 6

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Our roots here in California’s North-Central

Today, McManis Family Vineyards cultivates

Valley go deep. We’ve been working this

more than 3,600 acres throughout the region.

land for ve generations, since 1938.

Even thoughwe’ve grown over the years, we’re

It’s more than our home, it’s a living

still hands-on about our vineyards and our wine.

part of our family’s history.

That’s heritage in themaking.

Legacy.

FAM I LY OWNED

F I VE GENERAT I ONS

•

AVintages“Essential”always available at the LCBO. Please enjoy responsibly. Represented in Ontario by The Vine. thevineagency.ca

F A M I L Y V I N E Y A R D S ®

FRUIT SALADS THAT DAZZLE

RED FRUIT SALAD WITH YOGURT AND CHOCOLATE GRANOLA

A salad of orange-scented cher- ries and berries becomes a regal breakfast (or tasty dessert) with homemade chocolate granola and creamy yogurt. To avoid an expensive trip to the dentist, double check that you’ve suc- cessfully removed all the cherry pits before adding cherries to the salad. CHOCOLATE-ALMOND GRANOLA 3 cups (750 mL) large-flake rolled oats 3/4 cup (175 mL) sliced almonds 1/2 cup (125 mL) sunflower seeds 1/2 cup (125 mL) maple syrup 1/4 cup (60 mL) canola oil 1/4 cup (60 mL) cocoa powder, sifted 1 tsp (5 mL) pure vanilla extract 1/2 tsp (2 mL) fine sea salt (scant) 1/4 cup (60 mL) granulated sugar 1/4 cup (60 mL) water 1/2 tsp (2 mL) finely grated orange zest 4 cups (1 L) mixed hulled and quartered strawberries, raspberries and pitted and halved cherries 1 1/3 cups (330 mL) vanilla yogurt 1 For the granola, preheat oven to 300°F (150°C). Line a large rimmed baking sheet with parch- ment paper. 2 In a large mixing bowl, mix oats, almonds and sunflower seeds until combined. In a small bowl, whisk maple syrup, oil, co- coa, vanilla and salt until smooth. Pour over oat mixture and mix until evenly coated. Transfer to prepared sheet and spread into an even layer. Bake on middle rack, stirring every 15 minutes, until nicely browned, 40 to 45 minutes. Remove from oven

4 Place berries in a mixing bowl. Drizzle with syrup to taste, saving the rest for another use. Gently mix. Cover and refrigerate up to 24 hours. (The raspberries will get a little mushy after a day but will still be delicious.) 5 To serve, divide yogurt among 4 bowls or glasses. Divide fruit sal- ad and sprinkle with some granola, saving the rest for another use.

and cool completely. Transfer to an airtight container. Store in a cool, dry place up to 1 month. 3 In a small pot, heat sugar and water over medium-high heat. Stir until sugar is dissolved. Remove from heat and cool com- pletely. Stir in orange zest. Let stand 10 minutes. Fine-strain into an airtight container, pressing on solids to extract syrup. (Discard solids.) Cover and refrigerate up to 1 week.

WHAT TO SERVE

The raspberry in this medium-­ bodied but refreshingly crisp ale reaches out to the fruit in the salad. Slightly sweet malt and tart acidity are nicely balanced. KLB Raspberry Wheat Ale LCBO 142349, 473 mL, $3.30

Serves 4

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SUMMER 2020 FOOD & DRINK

$17 solution. Great-value wines.

THIS IS VINTAGES

This high-altitude Malbecwill offer intense spice, black fruit and herbal notes, with silky tannins. Try it with roasted eggplant or with grilled ribs. FINCA SOPHENIA ALTOSUR MALBEC 2018 Vegan, Mendoza, Argentina 13113 (XD) 750 mL $17.00 2 Full-bodied & Smooth 94 points (Decanter Asia Wine Awards) Food-friendly and crafted from Rhône signatures Grenache and Syrah, this elegant wine will have smoky red berry, spice and leather notes. Great for grilled chicken or burgers. DOMAINE LA DÉCELLE RÉSERVE VALRÉAS 2017 AC Côtes du Rhône-Villages, France 14391 (XD) 750 mL $17.00 2 Full-bodied & Smooth 95 points (Decanter World Wine Awards)

$17 SOLUTION. AVAILABLE IN STORES AND ONLINE JUNE 13, 2020. Featured products may not be available in all Vintages locations. Visit lcbo.com/vintages for availability and store locations. Prices subject to change.

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FRUIT SALADS THAT DAZZLE

NECTARINE AND TOMATO SALADWITH FRIED HALLOUMI AND BASIL

TO TEMPER THE SULFUROUS BITE OF RAWONION, SOAK IT IN COLDWATER FOR FIVEMINUTES.

A platter of sweet nectarines and juicy tomatoes becomes a satisfy- ing salad with the addition of salty, squeaky pan-seared halloumi. Serve it with warm pita for a simple weekend lunch. Since halloumi is best straight out of the pan, have the rest of the salad plated and ready before you cook the cheese. 1 lb (455 g) mixed ripe heirloom tomatoes 1 lb (455 g) ripe nectarines Coarse sea salt and freshly ground pepper 1 1/2 tbsp (22 mL) sherry vinegar 3 tbsp (45 mL) extra virgin olive oil 1/3 cup (80 mL) thinly sliced red onion 1/2 cup (125 mL) torn basil leaves, lightly packed 1 Cut large tomatoes into wedges, medium tomatoes into thick slices, and small ones in half. Arrange on a large serving platter. Halve, pit and cut nectarines into wedges. Arrange on serving platter with tomatoes. Season with salt and pepper. Drizzle with vin- egar then olive oil. Sprinkle with onion and basil. 2 Heat vegetable oil in a large nonstick frying pan over medium-high heat. Add halloumi. Cook until golden brown, about 1 minute per side. Arrange around salad and serve immediately. Serves 4 to 6 1 tbsp (15 mL) vegetable oil 1/2 lb (225 g) halloumi, sliced 1/2-inch (1-cm) thick

WHAT TO SERVE

The salad’s tomato and nectarine com- bination will be flattered by the fine tan- nins and balanced acidity of this smooth, mature red with elegant red cherry and cedar spice notes.

Anciano 7 Year Gran Reserva Tempranillo Valdepenas DO LCBO 464214, $13.95

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COORS SLICE HAS A NEW PARTNER IN LIME .

AVAILABLE IN ORANGE AND NOW IN LIME.

*

Light & Local

Summer Fare

Kimchi Turkey Burgers These juicy turkey burgers can be grilled or pan fried to perfection for a fun Friday night dinner with family or friends. An easy spin on Kimchi makes a wonderful quick addition to add flavour and crunch to this dish. Makes: 4 servings • Prep time: 15 minutes • Cook time: 12 minutes

Enjoy the fresh bountiful flavours of local produce paired with Ontario farm-raised turkey.

These kabobs are perfect served on a bed of fragrant rice for a light summer dinner.

Pit, peel, and chop 1 of the peaches and place in small blender or food processor. Add shallot, garlic, oil, and vinegar. Puree until smooth. Pulse in cilantro and salt. Stir in chili.

Prep time: 15 minutes Grill time: 12 to 15 minutes Makes: 4 to 6 servings

Pit and cube remaining 2 peaches.

What you need: • 2 cups (500 mL) coleslaw mix • 1/2 tsp (2 mL) each, salt and granulated sugar •

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3 ripe but firm Ontario peaches or nectarines, divided

In a large bowl, toss cubed turkey with half of the peach marinade to coat. Cover and place in refrigerator for at least 1 hour or up to overnight. Stir honey into remaining marinade. Alternately skewer turkey, peach, and red pepper onto soaked wooden or metal skewers. Place on greased grill over medium heat, turning and basting occasionally with remaining marinade for 12 to 15 minutes or until turkey is no longer pink inside.

• 1 shallot, chopped • 2 cloves garlic, minced • 2 tbsp (30 mL) each canola oil and cider vinegar • 2 tbsp (30 mL) chopped fresh cilantro • 1/2 tsp (2 mL) salt • 1 small Thai bird chili, sliced • 1 boneless, skinless Ontario turkey breast, cubed (about 1 lb/454 g) • 1 tbsp (15 mL) Ontario honey • 1 red pepper, cubed

3 tbsp (45 mL) seasoned rice vinegar 3 cloves garlic, minced and divided

• • •

1 tbsp (15 mL) sesame oil, divided

1 tsp (5 mL) Sriracha sauce, divided • 1 pkg (454 g) ground Ontario turkey • 1/2 cup (125 mL) panko breadcrumbs • 2 tbsp (30 mL) chopped fresh cilantro • 1/2 cup (125 mL) julienned cucumber Spiced Yogurt Mayonnaise: • 2 tbsp (30 mL) each, light mayonnaise and 0% plain Greek yogurt • 2 tsp (10 mL) Sriracha sauce • Pinch salt Spiced Yogurt Mayonnaise: In a bowl, stir together mayonnaise, yogurt, Sriracha and salt. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use Kimchi Mix: In a bowl, toss coleslaw mix with salt and sugar; let stand for 10 minutes. Stir in vinegar, 2 cloves of garlic and 1 tsp (5 mL) of sesame oil and 1/2 tsp (2 mL) of the Sriracha sauce; set aside. Burgers: In a large bowl, combine turkey, breadcrumbs, cilantro with remaining 2 tsp (10 mL) of sesame oil, 1 clove of garlic and 1/2 tsp (2 mL) of the Sriracha. Add 1/2 cup (125 mL) of the kimchi mixture and mix well. Shape into 4 patties. Pan fry or grill over medium heat, turning once, for about 12 minutes or until no longer pink inside. Top each burger with remaining kimchi mixture, cucumbers and spiced yogurt mayonnaise to serve. Slider option: Make 12 smaller bite-size burgers for an easy appetizer. Tip: For a less spicy yogurt mayonnaise, reduce the Sriracha to 1 tsp (5 mL).

Peach Glazed Turkey Kabobs

For more summer recipe inspiration visit makesitsuper.ca or follow @OntarioTurkey