LCBO Food & Drink Summer 2021

SUMMER 2021

The Summer Issue

COMPLIMENTS OF

NEW AT THE LCBO

NOW YOU CAN EVEN PUT SRIRACHA ON ICE.

@MOTTSCLAMATOCAESAR

Please enjoy responsibly. Must be legal drinking age. Trademarks used under license by Canada Dry Mott’s Inc.

ISN’T IT TIME FOR A CAESAR?

COULDN’T YOUR SUMMER USE A BIT MORE SPICE?

LEVEL UP YOUR COCKTAILS WITH THE NATURAL FLAVOURS OF BACARDI ® SPICED RUM

AND CANADA DRY PREMIUM™ SODAS MADE FROM REAL GINGER TO SPICE THINGS UP.

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

96 THINK PINK

Features

90 FROZEN ASSETS By Christopher St. Onge

A range of innovative frozen cocktails to carry you through the season.

96 THINK PINK By James Chatto and Miranda Keyes

Find the right style of rosé to match your favourite fully dressed burger.

104 READY, SET, SERVE! By Eric Vellend

A perfect summer menu where all the food has been made in advance. 110 ‘RAD’ TO THE BONE By Jesse Vallins Nothing beats a customized beer-and-juice radler when the meat is hot off the grill. 118 PEACHY KEEN By Mary Berg Sweet and savoury recipes starring Ontario’s gorgeous peaches.

ON THE COVER Raspberry & Rosé Shaved Ice, recipe on page 168. Photography by James Tse.

9

FOOD & DRINK SUMMER 2021

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Departments FOOD 49 FLAVOURS TAKE THE CAKE By Soo Kim Delicious takes on classic cakes are perfect for summer occasions. 67 BASICS HERBAL REMEDIES By Michelle Rabin From condiments to desserts, here’s what to make with a gardenful of fresh herbs.

137 SEASONAL EASY DOES IT By Food & Drink contributors

Quick, simple weeknight grills—our experts share their secrets. 155 LOCAL HIDDEN TREASURES By Renée S. Suen Ontario-made treats worthy of a stop on road trips this summer.

49 TAKE THE CAKE

DRINK 57 TRENDS HIP TO SIP By Food & Drink contributors What are Canadians drinking this summer? Explore all the latest trends. 75 READY TO DRINK KINDRED SPIRITS By Michele Sponagle Ready-to-drink cocktails are better than ever thanks to these Ontario makers.

129 TWISTS JELL-OH! By Victoria Walsh Imagine turning your favourite drinks to jelly—we show you how. 147 WINE SUMMER STOCK By Charlene Rooke Rounding up a selection of fresh, new wines to toast the season.

57

In every issue

187 RECIPE INDEX 187 Source Resource 188 ONTARIO MAKERS SINGULAR SENSATION By Brenda Morrison Exceptional peanut butter pies—just one flavour in just one size.

16 EDITOR’S NOTES

25 INSIDE SCOOP By Eric Vellend The latest bits, bites and sips to keep you in the know.

10

SUMMER 2021 FOOD & DRINK

Coming next issue Available September 15 Love your garlic Fabulous recipes starring the stinking rose Spice ’em up! Cocktails that turn up the heat Come to lunch An effortlessly delicious fall menu Wine in the kitchen The art and science of cooking with wine

Many of the products featured in this issue are available to purchase online at lcbo.com.

VP Marketing & Customer Intelligence Vanda Provato Editor Jody Dunn Art Directors Karen Lim

Publication Assistant Piper MacFadyen Production Assistant

Everton Smith Food Stylists Lindsay Guscott, Eshun Mott, Christopher St. Onge Prop Stylists Catherine MacFadyen, Andrea McCrindle, Shelly Shnier, Genevieve Wiseman Contributors Mary Berg, James Chatto, Lisa Fielding, Lindsay Guscott, Michelle P. E.Hunt, Jessica Huras, Miranda Keyes, Soo Kim, Tara Luxmore, Irene Matys, Brenda Morrison, Eshun Mott, Laura Panter, Michelle Rabin, Michele Sponagle, Christopher St. Onge, Renée S. Suen, Heather Trim, Jesse Vallins, Tonia Wilson-Vuksanovic Publisher Wayne Leek Advertising Sales

For general inquiries about Food & Drink magazine or information about LCBO products and policy, please contact helloLCBO online at hellolcbo.com, or call toll-free 800•668•5226 or 416•365•5900. TTY Only: 416•864•6898 or 800•361•3291. All advertiser applications are subject to the terms and conditions of the LCBO’s advertising agreement. Food & Drink is published five times a year by the Liquor Control Board of Ontario. Volume 28, Number 5. Food & Drink is printed on paper that contains 10 percent post-consumer fibre. Food & Drink is recyclable in communities participating in magazine recycling programs.

Cathy Cicchini Drinks Editor Charlene Rooke

Food Editor Eric Vellend Content Editors Suresh Doss Victoria Walsh Publication Coordinator Leslie Bolter Graphic Designers Dominique Patafio Pat Turbach Production Coordinator Judy Haverkort

Publication Mail Agreement No. 40064521 Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Food & Drink , 55 Lake Shore Boulevard East, Toronto, ON, M5E 1A4 ISSN 1195-5988

Not all of the wines, spirits and beers mentioned in Food & Drink will be available at all LCBO stores. Prices are subject to change without notice. Cette publication est également disponible en français.

Kirby Miller, Beaches Media Services kirby@beachesmediaservices.com

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SUMMER 2021 FOOD & DRINK

LCBO NOTES

From our President & CEO

Dear friends, Summer is in full swing and as vacci- nation roll-out continues and restrictions ease, we are all getting used to the idea of socializing with close family and friends again, while remaining mindful of public health guidelines, of course. The LCBO is happy to be part of everyone’s long- anticipated entertaining plans by providing new products and exceptional experiences to our customers across the province. Continuing to remain proud of our ability to make positive contributions to Ontario at this time has been our focus for well over a year, and it still holds true— most recently exemplified by the LCBO’s official sponsorship of Pride Toronto. Key to this involvement was our #ToastToPride campaign, in partnership with Women’s College Hospital Foundation—and it was a huge success. The money that so many of our customers generously donated will go towards health-related programs at the hos- pital that help members of the 2SLGBTQ+ community access the resources they need. It is all part of the LCBO’s Spirit of Sustainability platform—our commit- ment to the health and well-being of our customers, employees, and communities. And to the same end, I am delighted to tell you that I have signed the pledge! The BlackNorth Initiative CEO Pledge, that is. Together with over 450 other leading Canadian companies, the LCBO is now a signatory to the commitment to end sys- temic racism and create more opportunities for the under-represented BIPOC (Black People, Indigenous Peoples and People of

Colour) community. We also stand in soli- darity with our Asian and Pacific Islander communities in the face of a rise in racism against people of Asian descent. Something else we have been doing for almost 100 years is taking responsi- bility for the quality and safety of all the products we sell by testing them in the LCBO’s Quality Assurance Lab. The work goes on behind the scenes, but it is a vital part of our mandate. Last year, for exam- ple, our Lab conducted 621,939 tests on 25,338 product samples, checking every- thing from label accuracy and sustainabil- ity practices to illegal additives and sugar and caffeine levels. Excess caffeine can mask the effects of alcohol, increasing the possibility of over-consumption—and that goes against another of our fundamental messages—to urge people to drink respon- sibly. We have ongoing partnerships with MADD Canada and other initiatives pro- moting public safety—but our real part- ners in this cause are you, our customers. It is something we all need to bear in mind this summer as we finally start to entertain and venture a bit further from home again, and life begins to look and feel a little more sociable. Have a great summer!

George Soleas President & CEO, LCBO

PORTRAIT BY JAMES TSE

14

SUMMER 2021 FOOD & DRINK

PROUDLY CANADI AN

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THE ART OF GIN. CELEBRATING CREATIVITY.

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EDITOR’S NOTES

It’s time to try something new!

Summer has officially arrived, but here in Ontario we’re already well into patio, grilling and cold drink season. So, as we head into the dog days, it’s a good time to take a look at what’s new and trending and consider something beyond the tried and true. Start by checking out “Hip to Sip” on page 57, where our Drinks Editor, Charlene Rooke, with some help from a few of our contributors, breaks down a variety of drink trends that are worthy of your attention. From sake to tropical cocktails and flavoured ciders, there are plenty of enticingly fresh ideas. Maybe you prefer the classics but could be swayed to present them in a different way? “Jell-Oh!” (on page 129) is for you. Here we’ve transformed some favourite drinks into jellied versions of themselves—treats for the eyes as well as your tastebuds. And, if you are a wine enthusiast, there’s a whole host of new wines that we think you need to know about; turn to page 147 to read all about them. While hardly new, radlers have been rising in popularity in North America for the last few years, espe- cially when it’s hot outside. For “’Rad’ to the Bone” on page 110, we asked Jesse Vallins to create flavour twists on the classic style then develop recipes for perfect pairings hot off

the grill. Featuring big cuts made for sharing, these duos will be the stars at any backyard BBQ. And what is summer without a glass of chilled rosé and a burger in hand? No mere sipper, on page 96 we demonstrate just how food-friendly rosé can be by pairing five styles with five delectable and dinner-party-worthy gourmet burg- ers—try a different one each week! We know weekends are at the heart of summer’s allure, but we haven’t forgotten about weeknights—an area where we all need a little inspiration. Enter our talented recipe developers, who share with us some of their favou- rite easy weeknight grills, starting on page 137. Then, in “Herbal Remedies,” on page 67, we asked Michelle Rabin to tell us what to do with all those herbs you may have growing in your gardens. She came through with even more weeknight inspiration—each one a must-try. From cakes to icy cocktails to local treasures waiting to be discovered on your next road trip, there’s plenty more to inspire you in this issue. And even if you don’t try something new, we wish you a safe and happy summer in the long-awaited company of your family and friends.

PORTRAIT BY JAMES TSE

Digital exclusives Keep an eye on lcbo.com/ foodanddrink and @lcbofoodanddrink in July and August for bonus online- only recipes and menus that will carry you through to Labour Day.

@lcbofoodanddrink

lcbofoodanddrink

LCBO

16

SUMMER 2021 FOOD & DRINK

PINK BUT NOT WHAT YOU THINK

A FRESH AND BOLD WATERMELON GIN

A UNIQUE CO-CREATION BETWEEN

ROMEO’S GIN AND CANADIAN

ARTIST MISS ME

$ 39.95

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PROUDLY CANADI AN

Upscale your beverage with LG’s exclusive slow- melting, spherical Craft Ice™. Plus, enjoy innovative design like the InstaView™ door—simply knock twice to see your favourites. Don’t forget the ice.

Discover more at lg.ca/craftice

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Shape and clarity of ice may vary with settings, water supply and home use conditions.

NEW AT THE LCBO

You may not have seen this before. But you’ve definitely tasted it.

If you’ve ever sat back with a G&T, chances are it was made with Canada Dry Tonic. And if that’s the case, then you already know that a gin & tonic made with Canada Dry is a cocktail in a class of its own. Well, no surprises here then. Our new Gin & Tonic is perfectly mixed so you can enjoy a true Classic, every time.

In short, it’s exactly what you’d expect from Canada Dry.

Please enjoy responsibly. Must be legal drinking age. Trademarks used under license by Canada Dry Mott’s Inc.

WHERE THERE’S A SUMMER

SHOW OFF YOUR SUMMER CAESAR @MOTTSCLAMATOCAESAR

THERE’S A CAESAR

ISN’T IT TIME FOR A CAESAR?

Please enjoy responsibly. Must be legal drinking age. Trademarks used under license by Canada Dry Mott’s Inc.

THE MOST OUT OF SUMMER WITH THE NEW COORS SLICE

AVAILABLE IN LIME AND NOW IN GRAPEFRUIT.

*Must be legal drinking age. While supplies last.

Inside scoop The latest bits, bites and sips to keep you in the know.

Now that summer is in full swing, it’s time to make the most of the alfresco lifestyle. To help you out, we’ve got the secrets to frozen cocktails, a new-wave rum punch and the right beers to end the night. On the food side, you’ll find killer condiments, Caprese remixes and steak 101 with a veteran butcher. And don’t miss the links to digital exclusives for more fab summer content.

By Eric Vellend | PHOTOGRAPHY by darren kemper & James Tse

28

26 Call it a punch 26 Born this way 26 The right mix 28 Steak 101

30 Homemade condiments 30 Matchmaker, matchmaker 32 Missing link 32 Scoop, there it is 32 Who to follow 34 Celebrity sightings

34 Deep-freeze 34 Night moves

42

36 Digital exclusives 36 Crazy for Caprese 36 Can down 38 I feel like chicken tonight

38 Jam session 40 Acid redux 40 Market watch 40 Fork in the road 42 Outdoor upgrades

I feel like chicken tonight 38

25

FOOD & DRINK SUMMER 2021

INSIDE SCOOP

Call it a punch DRINK OF THE SEASON Now that kombucha is a super- market staple, the tart, fizzy drink is making a splash in summery cocktails. In our Kombucha Rum Punch (recipe page 166), we take classic tropical punch, top it with deep red hibiscus kombucha and serve it sangria-style in a pitcher. It’s bright and refreshing, and can be made in any quantity up to a day in advance. So mix up a batch (or two) and raise a glass to summer!

SEASONAL SIPS Born this way

If you’re looking to drink a light beer with a conscience this summer, grab a can of Muskoka Brewery Born This Way IPA ( LCBO 15994, 473 mL, $3.95). This nano IPA (a lower alcohol style of IPA) has only 3.8% ABV, yet it’s bursting with tropical fruit flavours and a pleasantly bitter finish. Proceeds from each can go to support the Get REAL Movement, an organization that combats LGBTQ 2 S+ discrimination and promotes acceptance for all.

SEE SOURCE RESOURCE

The right mix SHOULD I BUY?

If you want to make over your bar cart without spending a fortune, then check out the Potion House line from Cocktail Emporium (cocktailemporium.com). “We started Potion House to ensure we had a reliable supply of quality bar tools and unique glassware at great prices,” says owner Kristen Voisey. And by great prices, she means about 50 percent less than premium equiva- lents. When the line launched in 2018, it was mostly bar tools, like shakers and stirring spoons, in handsome finishes, including copper and gold. The product range has grown to over 200 items and now includes tumblers, coupes, tropi- cal mugs and cocktail garnishes. “Our newest products are candied orange peels and slices, and Amarena cherries made in Spain,” says Voisey. “Our first order sold out in a month!”

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SUMMER 2021 FOOD & DRINK

AN OLD FASHIONED, ONLY WISER.

INSIDE SCOOP

Steak 101 ASK AN EXPERT

Quality beef has gotten expensive. What are some affordable steaks for the grill? Cuts like flat iron and hanger steaks, as they’re tender and very flavourful, if somewhat difficult to find in grocery stores. For a more common steak, top sirloin, but cut out its silver skin before cooking, as it will make it chewier. of Sanagan’s Meat Locker (sanagansmeatlocker.com) in Toronto, for an all-beef tutorial. To take the intimidation out of buying and grilling steaks, we asked Peter Sanagan, cookbook author and owner

Take flight “Be a little adventurous and serve a steak ‘flight’ for your friends and fami- ly. Cook three or more different types of steaks, then slice them so you can all try the different types and declare favourites.”

Both reduce yield, so it’s expensive. But it creates a popcorn and blue cheese flavour profile loved by steak connoisseurs. Grilling and slicing larger steaks is very fashionable. What’s the best way to cook them? I recommend two meth- ods. For the “high-low” approach, a steak is seared on the hot side of the grill (2 to 3 minutes per side) before being finished on the less hot side (5 to 10 minutes per side, depending on the thick- ness of the steak). The second method is called the “reverse-sear.” A large steak is slowly cooked in the oven at a very low heat (200°F/93°C) until the de- sired internal temperature

is achieved (125°F/52°C for medium-rare), then it’s seared quickly over a very high heat (about 2 minutes per side) to caramelize the outside. This method takes a little longer but produces more accurate results. What’s themost fool- proof way to check for a steak’s doneness? An instant read ther- mometer. For home cooks, it’s so much better. Go in from the side into the thickest part. What are some of your favourite sauces to serve with grilled steak? Salsa verde, chimichurri, tarragon mayo or just a dish of best-quality Dijon- style mustard.

What exactly is dry-aged beef?

Dry aging allows the muscles to be exposed to oxygen in a humidity- controlled environment over a period of time in order to break down the protein to produce more tender beef. It loses water, and there is a lot of loss due to trimming.

Beef up your library To learn more about beef and the art of cooking steaks, check out Sanagan’s new cookbook, Cooking Meat (Appetite by Random House, 2020), $40, indigo.ca

PORTRAIT AND BOOK COVER BY PETER CHOU

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SUMMER 2021 FOOD & DRINK

Our roots here in California’s North-Central

Today, McManis Family Vineyards cultivates

Valley go deep. We’ve been working this

more than 3,600 acres throughout the region.

land for five generations, since 1938.

Even thoughwe’ve grown over the years, we’re

It’s more than our home, it’s a living

still hands-on about our vineyards and our wine.

part of our family’s history.

That’s heritage in themaking.

Legacy.

FAM I LY OWNED

F I VE GENERAT I ONS

AVintages “Essential” always available at the LCBO. Please enjoy responsibly. Represented in Ontario by The Vine. thevineagency.ca

F A M I L Y V I N E Y A R D S ®

INSIDE SCOOP

SEASONAL SIPS

Matchmaker, matchmaker

Find these recipes at lcbo.com/ fdsummer21

Wondering what to pour or looking for a change-up at your next backyard feast? We’ve put together a handy chart to take the guesswork out of pairing drinks with some favourite summer dishes.

beer & cider

cocktail

Wine

soft drink

Amber ale

CHEESEBURGERs BBQ RIBS BOILED LOBSTER Beaujolais or Ontario Gamay Zinfandel

Sparkling water

Whisky Sour

Dry cider

Iced tea

Dark & Stormy

Homemade condiments

Oaked Chardonnay

Wheat beer

Lemonade

Brandy Collins

Upping your grill game doesn’t require new gadgets or clever hacks. A few homemade condiments are all it takes to bring the wow factor to your next backyard barbecue. Bright- ened with citrus and flavoured with cilantro, quick-pickled Marinated Red Onions are terrific sprinkled on tandoori chicken, saucy tacos and summery salads. Grilled Corn & Bacon Relish with Caramelized Purple Onion will take hot dogs and grilled shellfish to new heights. Finally, the love child of ketchup and salsa, our ginger- spiked Tomato Chili Jam is outstanding on burgers, sandwiches and grilled fish.

CAESAR SALAD

Pilsner

Rosé

Brio or other chinotto soda

Bloody Caesar

With summer fruit desserts, match sweet with sweet—perhaps a glass of Moscato d’Asti or an amaretto-based cocktail.

Sweet dreams

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SUMMER 2021 FOOD & DRINK

IT STARTS

A P E RO L + P ROS E CCO + SODA

APEROLCANADA APEROLCANADA

Please Enjoy Responsibly.

INSIDE SCOOP

Scoop, there it is

Missing link Looking for something new to throw on the grill this summer? Check out these shops for some of the best sausages in Ontario. LOCAL FLAVOUR

The excellent ice creams from Udderly Ridiculous

(udderlyridiculous.ca) are smooth and rich, and come in six original flavours, with one big difference: They’re made with goat milk. In- spired by the herd of goats on their third-generation farm in Oxford County, Ontario, Greg and Cheryl Haskett decided to go into the ice cream business two years ago. They quickly garnered accolades and landed on the shelves of major retailers. You definitely have to be a fan of goat dairy to enjoy these frozen treats, but we found the heavenly Vanilla Bean Lavender to be the mildest. Bonus: 10 cents from every container is donated to Gift a Goat, a program that buys goats through World Vision for families in need. Udderly Ridiculous Goat’s Milk IceCream, 473mL, $8.99, Sobeys and Fortinos.

Olliffe Butcher Shop Since 1975, this iconic Rosedale butcher has been turning out some of Toronto’s best links. Fan favourites include Red Rooster (spicy Italian made with chicken and turkey) and Macedonian (pork flavoured with leeks and orange zest). olliffe.ca

The Bauer Butcher

Seed to Sausage General Store With locations in Ottawa and Sharbot Lake (north of Kingston), this celebrated charcuterie is a big draw during grill season. Top sellers are spicy, tangy Jalapeño & Cheese Curd Smokies and juicy German-style Big Rig Beer Brats. seedtosausage.ca

Matt Kendrick, owner of this shop located in Vincenzo’s in Waterloo, sources his meats from animals sustainably raised at small, local farms. Signature sausages include pastured pork spiced with ghost and

WHO TO FOLLOW IMAGE BY PAUL HILLIER

habanero peppers, and Vietnamese-style chicken

with lemon grass. bauerbutcher.com

Follow Jen Chan on Instagram (@foodpr0n), and your feed will get a lot more delicious. The Toronto-based food blogger cooks, reviews restaurants and critiques pastries from GTA bakeries and beyond. She’s discerning—there’s no pay-to-play influen- cing—and her photographs are professional quality. She’s part of a group of like-minded friends who collectively run under the hashtag #AFoodMob: Watch out for extensive food crawls, major taste tests and entertaining bake-offs. Who to follow: @foodpr0n

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SUMMER 2021 FOOD & DRINK

NEW

Please enjoy responsibly.

INSIDE SCOOP

Celebrity sightings From rappers to actors to an NBA legend, celebrities are lending their star power to the world of spirits. Here are four bottles with full VIP access. TRENDSPOTTING

Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson Teremana Reposado Tequila LCBO 19750, $54.95

Snoop Dogg INDOGGO Gin LCBO 19403, $39.95

Deep-freeze Frozen cocktails require both an artist’s flair and a scientist’s attention to detail. Here are a few tips to make the best blender drinks. BAR HACK + Batch and store ingredients in the freezer to ensure a perfect slushy texture. + If the drink is stalled in the blender, add a splash of juice or water. + Freeze glassware ahead of time to slow down melting. + Since ice mutes the percep- tion of sweetness, be pre- pared to add more sweetener. + Do NOT use metal straws, as they can freeze and turn into winter lampposts.

Michael Jordan Cincoro Añejo Tequila LCBO 19699, $229.95

Nick Jonas Villa One Blanco Tequila LCBO 19427, $69.95

Shop the issue at lcbo.com/ fdsummer21

“I really like stouts that have a choco- late or cocoa flavour, are medium- to full-bodied without being too heavy and have a dry or semi-dry finish so they don’t feel too syrupy.” David’s Pick Walkerville Easy Stout ( LCBO 453985, 473 mL, $3.10)

“Saisons are great nightcaps because they’re effervescent and complex, yet easy to drink, with a dry fin- ish. They make great slow-sipping, contem- plative beers to round out your evening.” David’s Pick Eastbound Brewing Electro Tonic Juniper Saison ( LCBO 20027, 355 mL, $3.25)

SEASONAL SIPS

Looking for a cold brew to end the evening? Here’s what David Sun Lee, a Toronto-based beer expert and a judge at the World Beer Awards, enjoys as a nightcap. Night moves

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SUMMER 2021 FOOD & DRINK

NEW

THE FIRST HARD SELTZER WITH SUPERFRUIT ACEROLA CHERRY.

R

130 PER C A L O R I E S 4 7 3 m L

B

A

S

C

0 g

P

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4

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NOW AVAILABLE

INSIDE SCOOP

Crazy for Caprese DINNER’S READY

If Caprese is your summer jam, then think of it as a blank slate for a wide variety of easy tomato salads. Using this chart as inspiration, remix the classic using different cheeses, herbs, dressings and garnishes. The possibilities are endless.

Middle Eastern feta or labneh + mint

South Asian

pan-fried paneer + cilantro + canola oil, lemon juice & cumin + roasted chickpeas

+ olive oil, red wine vinegar & garlic

+ pita chips

Digital exclusives

For more delicious stories all summer long, keep an eye on lcbo.com/foodanddrink. Here’s what’s in store. Breakfast of Champions In July, wake up on the right side of the weekend with a fabulous morn- ing menu including bourbon-spiked coffee Juleps and tray-baked pancakes with spiced peaches. East Coast eats Visit Canada’s East Coast in Aug- ust without leaving your dining room. Seafood is the star of this menu, with lobster bisque, clam fritters, and pan-fried haddock and chow chow.

Vegan soft or silken tofu + chives + miso + sesame seeds

Latin queso fresco or cojita + oregano +

sunflower oil, lime juice & chipotle + tortilla strips

Can down WHAT’S NEW

From vodka to tequila to Canadian whisky, a few of your favourite spirit brands are mixing up something fresh on the ready-to-drink shelves at the LCBO.

Absolut Mango Mule LCBO 19134, 355 mL, $3.25

Crown Royal Whisky & Cola LCBO 19303, 473 mL, $3.25

Bacardi Mojito LCBO 19119, 355 mL, $2.85

BREAKFAST OF CHAMPIONS BY VINCE NOGUCHI

36

SUMMER 2021 FOOD & DRINK

WITH THE RIGHT BOURBON T H E R E ’ S N O W R O N G M I X .

n e w c o m i n g s o o n

Jim Beam® Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey, 32.5-40% Alc./Vol ΞϮϬϮϭ :ĂŵĞƐ ĞĂŵ ŝƐƟůůŝŶŐ Ž ůĞƌŵŽŶƚ

INSIDE SCOOP

I feel like chicken tonight THE TAKEAWAY

Whether it’s from a fast-food chain or your neighbourhood pub, the fried chicken sandwich is an unstoppable force. The combination of crunchy chicken, tart pickles and spicy sauces makes it tricky to match with wine, but Tawse Spark Limestone Ridge Organic Sparkling Riesling VQA ( VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 370361, $20.95) is up for the task. This sparkler has the racy acidity to cut through the sandwich’s richness, while its lively mousse refreshes the palate for the next bite.

Jam session ASK AN EXPERT Thinking about taking the plunge into jammaking this summer? For tips and inspiration, we talked to Germaine Catchpole of Mnopgwad Preserves (mnopgwad.com), a First Nations-owned company specializing in unique jams. Why shouldhome cooksmake their own jam? You can pick out what’s in season and support local growers. They last a long time, and you can gift them. People appreciate handmade items. Plus, it’s a great skill to have. What equipment is needed? A sturdy pot for cooking fruit and a long wooden spoon to stir; a stockpot for submerging and sterilizing jars; Mason jars, which grocery stores carry in sum- mer; and tongs for hot jars. You could go out and spend money on kits, but most things you have at home.

What’s a good fruit for novice jam makers? I would go with blueberries. There’s no prep—just wash them up. They don’t take a lot of time to cook and are more forgiving for beginners. What are some commonpreserving mistakes to avoid? The biggest thing is don’t underfill or overfill your jars—just leave a ¼-inch headspace. An underfilled jar creates an air pocket, and it might spoil. If it’s over- filled, it might not set properly. Inspect jars for cracks. You can reuse jars, but use new lids and rims—it looks better if you’re giving a gift. Anything else youwould like to add onmaking jamat home? Use very fresh fruit and you will get the best-tasting jam. Don’t rush. It’s supposed to be a relaxing and enjoyable process.

Shop the issue at lcbo.com/ fdsummer21

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SUMMER 2021 FOOD & DRINK

Developed by the King of “Gin & Juice,” INDOGGO ® is the ultimate remix of seven premium botanicals infused with al l natural strawberry flavor.

Scan for a Special Message from Snoop Dogg!

INDOGGO ® Strawberry Flavored Gin, 40% Alc./Vol . ©2021 Liquid Ar t, Princeton, MN *Per 1.5 oz Avg Analysis: Calories 93, Carbohydrates 0G, Protein 0G, Fat 0G

INSIDE SCOOP

SHOULD I BUY? Acid redux

Since acidity is finally being recognized for its pivotal role in seasoning food, it’s time to upgrade your vinegar selection. The raw, unfiltered Living Vinegars by Toronto-based Acid League are vibrant, balanced and a total revelation. Our favourites among the one-of- a-kind flavours include spicy, vegetal Garden Heat, made from carrot, celery and jalapeño juices, and Strawberry Rosé, a floral pink elixir that will add pop to everything from salads to smoothies. Acid League Living Vinegar, 375 mL, $18, acidleague.com

ASK AN EXPERT Market watch

To find out what “new” and interesting vegetables to look for at farmers’ markets this summer, we talked to Linda Crago of treeandtwig.squarespace.com in Niagara.

Poona Kheera Cucumber “An Indian heirloom variety that turns from yellow to a russet brown. Sweet, mild flesh that’s seldom bitter, despite how large it might get. My favourite.”

Disposable, yet biodegradable

Rat’s Tail Radish “The root of this radish is inedible; it’s the seed pod you eat, which tastes like a radish. Great to snack on raw or wonderful in stir-fries.”

Jacob’s Cattle Bean “Indigenous heirloom bean, hugely productive, and it retains its beautiful colouring when cooked. Superb for soups, stews and refried beans, plus it’s easy to grow.”

Fork in the road SUSTAINABLE solution

If single-use dinnerware is your only option, it’s worth splurging on some- thing with a soft eco footprint. Here are a few plant-based products to take on your next picnic. (All items are available at greenmunch.ca.)

Made from sugar cane, these plates and bowls are cut-resistant and microwave- safe. Sugarcane Compostable 10-inch Round Plates, 50, $15.99; 24-oz Bowls, 100, $29.00

Sturdy and styl- ish, this wooden cutlery set will break down in a backyard composter. Birch Wood Cutlery Bundle, 100 sets, $31.99

Ingeo, a plant-based plastic, is the material behind these crystal- clear cups. Greenware 12-oz Cold Cups, 50, $11.50

Biquinho Pepper “From Brazil; its name means ‘little beak.’ Mildly hot, sweet and smoky. Prolific producer in the garden. Exceptional when pickled.”

PORTRAIT BY MOLLIE CRAGO; CUCUMBER AND BEAN IMAGES COURTESY OF TREE AND TWIG HEIRLOOM VEGETABLE FARM; RADISHES BY ©ISTOCK.COM/BONCHAN; PEPPERS BY MAXSOL7/ADOBE STOCK

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SUMMER 2021 FOOD & DRINK

SPLASH EXPECTATIONS INTRODUCING THE NEW GROWERS | 1G OF SUGAR | PER 473 ML 130 CALORIES

INSIDE SCOOP

Patio lanterns With clean lines and a striking silhouette, the luxe Park Solar Lamp (from $359) looks right at home with modern outdoor dé- cor. Its lithium battery recharges in the sun or, if kept in the shade or days are cloudy, with a USB connection. Position it on deck steps, on the ground or up on a table. There’s even a hook to mount it to a fence. Available in two sizes at Hauser stores and hauserstores.com.

4 things

Outdoor upgrades

If you’re not going any further than your backyard this summer, invest in ways to make it your favourite place to be.

Privacy, please

By Brenda Morrison

Veradek Outdoor Partition Screen Sets (three-panel, $450, and two-panel, $340) make it easy to give your backyard a chic boutique-hotel vibe. Choose from several patterns, including Quadra (shown here), and position at the side of a balcony or to corner off a private spot in your backyard for easy- on-the-eyes seclusion from neighbours. Available at veradekshop.ca.

Summer soundtracks

Hanging out Here’s proof that outdoor furniture can be fun as well as functional. Introducing summer’s most on-trend and most-wanted piece of outdoor furniture, the Hangout Pod (1.8-metre-wide pod and stand set, $600). Add a few outdoor pillows and spend the day on it catching some rays, or stay up late looking up at the stars. Available at simons.ca.

After spending months indoors clearing out basements and finding long- forgotten cassette tapes, you can listen to them again with the Sylvania Bluetooth Retro Cassette Boombox ($59.99). Small in size but loaded with features, including a headphone jack and record function, it can be plugged in or powered up with batteries for portability. Available at select Walmart stores and walmart.ca.

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SUMMER 2021 FOOD & DRINK

IT MIGHT SEEM AS IF FRENCH ROSÉ IS HAVING A MOMENT… IN FACT, THAT MOMENT IS INTO ITS THIRD MILLENNIUM. ROSE

FABULOUS ROSÉ is made in many parts of France, but its heartland is Provence. That is where the whole story of French wine began, 2,600 years ago, when Greek colonists first planted vineyards in Massalia (modernMarseille). The wine they made from those grapes was rosé – and though production methods may have changed, evolving from ancient know-how to state- of-the-art techniques, rosé remains Provence’s overwhelmingly favourite style of wine. People who live there drink it at any time of the year; summer visitors soon come to understand why. All that glorious Mediterranean sunshine suits the local grape varieties that are perfect for making rosé, and it also encourages the relaxed way of life to enjoy it. What makes these rosé wines so special? Like Provence itself, they are beautiful to look at – oŠering an infinite spectrum of pale pink shades, like the celebration of light in a painting by Cézanne. They are elegant but also easy-going – and never too obvious, with subtle aromas that suggest all sorts of fruits but can also hint at the rocky minerality and perfumed herbal garrigue of the Provençal landscape. Close your eyes as you taste and imagine yourself in Provence! And these wines are at home in any situation – as an elegant aperitif, of course, but also to accompany the simplest of lunches or the grandest gastronomical dinner. EŠortlessly versatile, they exist in delicious harmony with the famous cuisine of Provence but they’re also completely in tune with the casual, cosmopolitan way we eat now, ideal companions for Asian andMexican flavours. And look closely at theWines of Provence Rosés. Just as those shades of pink are all slightly diŠerent, so the various microclimates of the region give each wine its own subtle nuances of expression. The three great appellations – Côtes de Provence, Coteaux Varois en Provence, and, to the west, Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence – have their own multiplicity of terroirs. Vineyards, many of which are farmed organically, diŠer in innumerable ways. One could study these wines for a lifetime – or simply raise a glass and enjoy.

Image ©BREGANÇON-CIVP.

tastefrance.com

ELEGANCE IN ALL SIMPLICITY

Maison Saint Aix, AIX Coteaux d’Aix-en- Provence VINTAGES 451906, $24.95 Round, fresh and fragrant, with all sorts of fruity and floral notes held in a shimmering balance, here’s a rosé to take you from oysters and salads to grilled chicken and fish. Or explore its complexity with a glass before dinner.

Gassier Sables d’Azur

Les Maîtres Vignerons de la Presqu’île de Saint- Tropez, Carte Noire Côtes de Provence VINTAGES 319384, $19.95 This zippy rosé is pressed from Grenache and Cinsault grown on the Saint-Tropez peninsula and picked at night to preserve the aromatics of spicy red berries. It plays nicely with Thai dishes and fish and seafood from the barbecue.

Côtes de Provence VINTAGES 33621, $18.95

There’s so much going on in this medium- bodied gem. Hints of briny minerality and wild herbs underpin intense pomegranate and red berry notes that linger on the palate for ages. A generous aperitif, it can also handle spicy dishes.

Estandon Vignerons, Terres De Saint-Louis Coteaux Varois en Provence LCBO 234575, $14.55 Scorching days and cool nights in high- altitude vineyards let Cinsault, Grenache and Syrah ripen slowly, developing subtle hints of red berry, peach and watermelon. Herbal,

Miraval Côtes de Provence VINTAGES 342584, $24.95 Superb fruit from the Château Miraval estate in the centre of Provence gives a wine of exceptionally elegant balance. The nose suggests redcurrants, citrus peel and fennel while tangy acidity works beautifully with seafood.

Cave d’Esclans, Whispering Angel Côtes de Provence VINTAGES 325076, $29.95 Sophisticated, silky and elegantly dry, this is the iconic benchmark for Provençal rosé. Ripe canteloupe, mandarin and peach aromas swirl around a discreet spine of firm minerality. Its length is the stuff of legend.

yeasty notes add extra dimensions to the wine.

tastefrance.com

ADVERTISING FEATURE

While Provence may be a household name, many of the country’s other wine regions bring a similarly breezy, casual but elegant south-of-France vibe to your table. In a summer like no other, invite French rosé to celebrate every spontaneous moment of the season. Invite FRENCH ROSÉS over this Summer

Gérard Bertrand Côte Des Roses Rosé LCBO | 373985 | $18.95 The vibrant red-berry and tart citrus flavours of this crisp rosé are held in perfect balance. Its breezy, fresh herbal note means it tastes perfect

La Vieille Ferme Rosé Ventoux AOC

L’Orangeraie Rosé Pays D’OC LCBO | 279661 | $11.90 This wine captures a bouquet of flowers, a basket of berries and a whiff of citrus and the sea in each crisp, pale-pink glass. Serve it with a lightly creamy pasta salad that includes seafood like shrimp, crab or lobster.

LCBO | 622134 | $12.30 Using slope-grown

grapes that ripen slowly at cooler temperatures preserves bright mouth- watering fruitiness in this watermelon-scented wine. Its rose and strawberry notes complement chicken cooked with fresh herbs.

when paired with ribs or other mildly spiced barbecued meats.

34567

tastefrance.com *Savourer la France

The rosé wines synonymous with Southern France are so admired these days, their delicate salmon hue and minerality-kissed berry flavours are now emulated around the world. Taste the original this summer, by pairing these modern rosés from some of France’s fine wine regions with all your summer fun. Whether it’s an intimate backyard picnic, a family barbecue on the patio or an impromptu sunset toast, keep these versatile, crisp wines on hand so they’re ready at a moment’s notice. As effortless as putting on your favourite summer hat or t-shirt, opening a bottle of these great-value wines to share instantly gives a Riviera ambiance to any occasion. Indulgent rosé-all-day brunches and apéro-hour toasts are just the start: rosé is as endlessly appealing as a stretch of white-sand beach. From ceviche and sushi to summer salads, from seafood and pasta to grilled meat and vegetables, these rosés are versatile enough for all your personal pairings. Invite them to your table this summer.

LOREM IPSUM LOREM IP LOR IPSUM

Maison No. 9 Rosé Post Malone LCBO | 20188 | $29.95

Ogier Cotes Du Ventoux Rosé AOC LCBO | 134916 | $14.50 Announcing its arrival with a hint of blossoms and a whiff of French pastry, this savoury rosé tastes of raspberry, plum, pear and juicy melon. Exceptionally dry, it pairs well with a ham baguette slathered with aioli.

Remy Pannier Rosé D’Anjou AOC LCBO | 12641 | $14.95 In this Cabernet Franc- based rosé, herbaceous

Blended to the famous musician’s smooth, crisp and refreshing taste, this wine bursts with orchard pears, pineapple and a whiff of strawberry. Pair it with vegetable or seafood risotto, or, as Post Malone suggests, chicken fingers!

and spicy notes are balanced with juicy blackberry flavour.

With medium body and a touch of sweetness, it tastes brilliant with a charcuterie plate.

Cabernet Merlot 1.5L $15.95 LCBO #639732

Sauvignon Blanc 1.5L $15.10 LCBO #79129

Cabernet Sauvignon 1.5L $15.95 LCBO #280719

Chardonnay 1.5L $15.10 LCBO #11928

Merlot 1.5L $15.95 LCBO #582411

FLAVOURS

Take the cake

Your best desserts for the season are cakes that stand up to the heat of the summer. Bursting with seasonal flavours, these fresh spins on classics won’t let you down.

By Soo Kim | photography by darren kemper

Summer is made sweeter by Ontario berries, and they make the perfect addition to a classic dessert like marshmallowy Baked Alaska or ethereal Chiffon Cake. And if you’re craving pure indulgence, look to our chilled 12-Layer Malted Milk Mousse Cake, an elegant favourite meant to be enjoyed on any occasion.

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FOOD & DRINK SUMMER 2021

TAKE THE CAKE

12-LAYER MALTED MILK MOUSSE CAKE

distribute mousse. Repeat with remaining layers and mousse, ending with a top cake layer. 8 Cover loosely with plastic wrap and refrigerate until firm, at least 6 hours or preferably overnight. 9 To glaze the cake, remove ring of springform pan (or carefully li out of cake pan using parchment collar and transfer to serving dish) and peel away paper. Return to refrigerator. Make Chocolate Ganache and spoon over cake. Refrigerate until set. 10 Make White Chocolate Curls and place on top of cake. Sprinkle with malted milk balls. Refrigerate until ready to serve. Serves 10 to 12

5 Remove from heat. Stir in reserved gelatin and salt until dissolved. Add the chocolates and stir until smooth. Transfer to a large bowl and let cool to room temperature, stirring occasion- ally. Whip cream to so peaks; fold half of it into the chocolate mixture until homogeneous. Fold in remaining whipped cream until no streaks remain. (It will be loose but will firm up as it cools.) 6 To assemble the cake, place an 8-inch (20-cm) springform pan or high-sided cake pan on a parch- ment paper-lined baking tray. Cut a parchment paper collar to reach 6 inches (15 cm) above the top of the pan. 7 Trim tops of cakes using a large serrated knife; brush loose crumbs from layers. Cut each cake in half horizontally to make six layers. Place 1 layer, cut side up, into bottom of prepared cake ring. Spoon or pour on 1 ⁄ cups (310 mL) of the mousse, spreading with bottom of a soup ladle and top with another cake layer, gently pressing to evenly

2 In a large bowl, whisk flour, sugar, cocoa, brown sugar, baking soda, baking powder and salt. In a separate bowl, stir the coffee and butter until butter is melted; whisk in buttermilk, oil, eggs and vanilla. Whisk into flour mixture until smooth. 3 Divide batter equally among prepared pans, smoothing tops. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes or until a cake tester inserted in the centre comes out clean. Let cool in pans for 20 minutes. Run a knife around the edges, then invert onto wire racks and peel off paper. Let cool completely. 4 For the mousse, stir gelatin and cold water in a small bowl; set aside and let bloom. Whisk malted milk powder, milk and sugar in a medium saucepan until smooth. Heat over medium heat, stirring until the malted milk powder and sugar are dissolved. In a large bowl, whisk egg yolks to break up; slowly stream in the milk mixture, whisking constantly. Return egg mixture to saucepan and cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until just hot and giving off steam.

This spin on the iconic icebox cake is loaded with chocolate and actually improves in the fridge or freezer. Don’t be intimidated by its towering dimensions: It’s just three cakes, halved and layered with milk chocolate mousse. CAKE 2 ⁄ cups (625 mL) all-purpose flour (spoon and level) 1 ⁄ cups (375 mL) sugar 1 cup (250 mL) unsweetened cocoa powder (spoon and level) ⁄ cup (150 mL) packed light brown sugar 2 tsp (10 mL) baking soda 1 tsp (5 mL) baking powder ⁄ tsp (1 mL) kosher salt 1 ⁄ cups (310 mL) strong hot coffee ⁄ cup (125 mL) unsalted butter, cubed 1 cup (250 mL) buttermilk ⁄ cup (80 mL) vegetable oil 3 eggs 1 ⁄ tsp (7 mL) pure vanilla extract MALTED MILK CHOCOLATE MOUSSE FROSTING 1 ⁄ tsp (7 mL) gelatin powder 3 tbsp (45 mL) cold water 1 cup (250 mL) malted milk powder ⁄ cup (125 mL) whole milk ⁄ cup (125 mL) sugar 5 egg yolks 2 cups (500 mL) whipping cream Chocolate Ganache (recipe on page 180) White Chocolate Curls (recipe on page 180) ⁄ cup (80 mL) crushed malted milk balls 1 Preheat oven to 350 F (177 C). Grease three 8-inch (20-cm) round cake pans and line the bottoms with parchment paper. ⁄ tsp (2 mL) kosher salt 6 oz (170 g) milk chocolate, finely chopped 3 oz (85 g) bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped

WHAT TO SERVE

This porter offers roast coffee and dark chocolate tones along with a creamy-malty palate that will meld with the cake’s flavours and textures. Clifford Porter LCBO 481143, 473 mL, $3.45

See page 180 for TIPS.

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SUMMER 2021 FOOD & DRINK

WE ’ R E COMM I T T E D TO T RU LY R ECYC L E D CA P S U L E S .

100% of Nespresso capsules we collect through the Nespresso recycling program are truly recycled.

DO I NG I S E V E RY TH I NG

TAKE THE CAKE

BLACKBERRY GLAZED SUNSHINE CHIFFON CAKE

6 Place pan in bottom third of oven; reduce temperature to 325 F (163 C) and bake until cake is puffed, golden and firm to the touch, 60 to 70 minutes. Imme- diately invert pan, placing tube opening over neck of a wine or beer bottle to suspend above counter until completely cooled, 1 ⁄ to 2 hours. (There should be no trace of warmth inside the tube.) 7 Run a long palette knife around edge of pan bit by bit to loosen cake, checking to ensure it releas- es cleanly and adjusting pressure; li out by centre tube. Loosen cake from bottom of pan the same way. Place cake plate over top and invert. Remove bottom of pan gently to ensure it releases cleanly.

8 Make Blackberry Glaze and spoon over cake, letting excess run down sides. Top with blackberries and edible flowers (if using). Serve with unsweet- ened whipped cream.

oils. Whisk in egg yolks, orange juice, water, olive oil, vegetable oil, vanilla and almond extract until smooth. Si in flour, baking powder and salt, whisking until smooth. 4 Fold ⁄ of meringue into batter, using whisk, until homo- geneous. Fold in remaining meringue in thirds, using whisk, until no streaks remain. 5 Pour batter into pan from one side to reduce air bubbles. Run a skewer or paring knife through batter several times to eliminate air bubbles. Holding sides of pan and using thumbs to hold down the neck, tap a few times to eliminate large air bubbles. Wait 5 seconds, allowing bubbles to reach the surface.

A close cousin of angel food cake, chiffon gets its rich ten- derness and exceptional bounce from the inclusion of egg yolks and vegetable oil. This creation has aromatic additions of olive oil, orange zest and almond extract, and it’s topped with 1 tsp (5 mL) cream of tartar 1 ⁄ cups (375 mL) granulated sugar, divided 1 tbsp (15 mL) orange zest ⁄ cup (125 mL) freshly squeezed orange juice ⁄ cup (60 mL) water ⁄ cup (60 mL) extra virgin olive oil ⁄ cup (60 mL) vegetable oil 2 tsp (10 mL) vanilla extract ⁄ tsp (2 mL) almond extract 2 cups (500 mL) cake and pastry flour (spoon and level) 2 tsp (10 mL) baking powder ⁄ tsp (4 mL) kosher salt Blackberry Glaze (recipe on page 180) Blackberries and edible flowers (optional) for garnish Unsweetened whipped cream for serving 1 Position a rack in lower third of oven and preheat to 350 F (177 C). Set a 10-inch (4-L) tube pan aside. 2 In the bowl of a stand mixer, beat egg whites on medium speed until foamy, about 1 minute. Add cream of tartar and increase speed to medium-high. Gradually beat in 2 tbsp (30 mL) of the sugar and beat until stiff peaks form, 5 to 7 minutes. 3 Meanwhile, rub the remain- ing sugar and orange zest in a large bowl to release essential a tangy blackberry glaze. 7 cold eggs, separated, plus 2 cold egg whites

Serves 10

WHAT TO SERVE

Asti offers a sparkling sweet palate and intense flavours of citrus zest and ripe fruit that will create a perfect harmony with this dessert.

Martini & Rossi Asti LCBO 253948, $14.30

See page 180 for TIPS.

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SUMMER 2021 FOOD & DRINK

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