LCBO Food & Drink Autumn 2022

AUTUMN 2022

COMPLIMENTS OF

Big & bold With cooler evenings comes the desire to get cozy. And what better fireside companion than a glass of VQA red? Succumb to the season’s charms and curl up next to aCabernet Franc, Baco Noir or a rich, signature red blend.

Full-on f lavour Cool climate style VQA reds serve up bright acidity, ripe tannins and rich fruit flavours. Excellent for food pairing, these medium-to-fuller bodied reds are right at home with any meal.

A touch of elegance For a taste of the lighter, fruitier side of VQA reds, reach for a glass of Pinot Noir or Gamay Noir. With a complex balance of fruit, floral & earthy flavours, they’re perfect for sipping on their own and are equally delicious when paired with food.

We cal l it home.

The leading edge of the world’s cool climate wine scene is right here, in our own backyard. Ontario isn’t just where we live. It’s where we harvest 100% Ontario-grown grapes to craft what’s new and next in the world of wine. So raise a glass and join us in shaping the next generation of wine.

winecount ryontario.ca

Please enjoy responsibly.

Raise a glass this autumn. Cheers to better cocktails. LG’s exclusive Craft Ice™ is round and slow-melting, keeping every drink delicious longer. And with the InstaView® door, two knocks gives you a look inside at cocktail ingredients without losing your cool. Home entertaining just reached new heights.

LG InstaView ® Refrigerator with Craft Ice ™

Discover more at lg.ca/craftice

InstaView ®

Craft Ice TM

Shape and clarity of ice may vary with settings, water supply and home use conditions. Must be of legal drinking age. Please drink responsibly.

UNCORK THE VIBRANCY OF SPAIN

NEW

AUTUMN Contents

Features 94 THE SPICE IS RIGHT An expert look into wines that have spicy flavours built

right into their DNA. BY CHARLENE ROOKE 102 GORGEOUS GOURDS

Fresh twists and inspiring flavours to upgrade your seasonal pumpkin recipes. BY IRENE MATYS 108 WINE COUNTRY A look back at the surprisingly long and heroic journey of the Ontario wine industry. BY JAMES CHATTO 116 SUNDAY BEST On days when there is time to cook, make an unforgettably delicious dinner. BY VICTORIA WALSH 122 DISTILLED WISDOM A delectable dinner paired with local whiskies, plus tips on how to taste and appreciate.

BY ERIC VELLEND & CHARLENE ROOKE

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ON THE COVER Baked Squash Risotto with a Crispy Crumb Topping, page 162

Photography by Vincent Noguchi

PHOTOGRAPHS BY (TOP) LINDSAY LAUCKNER-GUNDLOCK; (BOTTOM RIGHT) MAYA VISNYEI

FOOD & DRINK AUTUMN 2022 5

CONTENTS

131

Departments

In Every Issue

Editor’s Notes

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43

Warm Welcomes Cocktails to keep you and your guests cozy on an autumn evening. BY MICHELLE P.E. HUNT & LAURA PANTER Making the Cut Tips and techniques for carving meat and poultry. BY JENNIFER MACKENZIE Sage Advice Brighten up sweet and savoury seasonal recipes with a pinch of sage. BY JESSE VALLINS Local Attractions Ontario grain, hops, malt and yeast create beers that are truly homegrown! BY JORDAN ST. JOHN Spotlight on Veggies Put vegetables front and centre with this harvest feast. BY CHRISTOPHER ST. ONGE Crunch Time Homemade crackers add something special

Inside Scoop The latest bits, bites

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and sips to keep you in the know. BY ERIC VELLEND

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Recipe Index

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A Splash of Bourbon Bourbon adds spicy pizzazz to caramel corn. BY SOO KIM

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Morning Harvest The bounty of our orchards comes to the fore in fruit forward brunch dishes. BY AMY ROSEN Cooking with Cider Sweet or dry, our fine local ciders are a not-so-secret ingredient. BY ERIC VELLEND & ESHUN MOTT

to any cheeseboard. BY LINDSAY GUSCOTT

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Little Fish, Big Dish Turn a pantry staple into a memorable mid-week supper. BY MICHELLE RABIN

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Bottle it Up Have your own bottled cocktails ready for every fall occasion. BY CHRISTINE SISMONDO

PHOTOGRAPHS BY (TOP) MAYA VISNYEI; (BOTTOM) JAMES TSE

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THIS HAUNTING RED BLEND IS SO SMOOTH, IT’S DOWNRIGHT SPOOKY. A COMPLEX AND RICH MIXTURE OF BLACKCURRANT AND RED FRUITS AROMAS IS HIGHLIGHTED BY HINTS OF FLOWERS AND SPICES. A GREAT COMPANION FOR YOUR FRIGHT NIGHT!

GRENACHE SYRAH MOURVEDRE

LCBO # 25229 PRICE $14.95

SAVE $2 00 from October 10 th to November 6 th

P l e a s e e n j oy r e s p ons i b ly

AUTUMN 2022

Chief Marketing and Digital Officer, LCBO Vanda Provato

EDITORIAL Editor Jody Dunn Drinks Editor Charlene Rooke Food Editor Eric Vellend Content Editor Victoria Walsh

Publication Coordinator Tricia Lahde Publication Assistant Piper MacFadyen

Dazzling dishes to bring to a party. STEAL THE SHOW

ART Creative Director Vanessa Wyse, Studio Wyse

Associate Creative Director Lucinda Wallace Senior Designer Hannah Browne Studio Manager Jenna King Photo Editor Sarah Palmer

CONTRIBUTORS James Chatto, Michael Elliott, Rob Fiocca, Lindsay Guscott, Christine Hanlon, Katie Hayden, Wade Hudson, Michelle P.E. Hunt, Jordan St. John, Darren Kemper, Soo Kim, Lindsay Lauckner-Gundlock, Michelle Lucas Larving, Catherine MacFadyen, Jennifer MacKenzie, Irene Matys, Andrea McCrindle, Eshun Mott, Vincent Noguchi, Laura Panter, Michelle Rabin, Charlene Rooke, Amy Rosen, Shelly Shnier, Christine Sismondo, David Sparshott, Michele Sponagle, Christopher St. Onge, Christine Tizzard, James Tse, Jesse Vallins, Eric Vellend, Maya Visnyei, Victoria Walsh

Coming next issue AVAILABLE NOVEMBER 9

PRODUCTION Production Coordinator Judy Haverkort Production Assistant Everton Smith Prepress Levon Gosdanian

SALES Publisher Wayne Leek

Kirby Miller, Beaches Media Services kirby@beachesmediaservices.com

For general inquiries about Food & Drink magazine or information about LCBO products and policy, please contact helloLCBO online at hellolcbo.com, or call toll-free 1.800.668.5226 or 416.365.5900. TTY Only: 416.864.6898 or 1.800.361.3291. All advertiser applications are subject to the terms and conditions of the LCBO’s advertising agreement. Food & Drink is published five times a year by the Liquor Control Board of Ontario. Volume 30, Number 1. Food & Drink is printed on paper that contains 10 per cent post‑consumer fibre. Food & Drink is recyclable in communities participating in magazine recycling programs. Publication Mail Agreement No. 40064521 Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Food & Drink , 100 Queens Quay East, 9th Floor, Toronto, ON, M5E 0C7 ISSN 1195-5988 Many of the products featured in this issue are available to purchase online at lcbo.com.

HAPPY NEW YEAR! See it in with a most sophisticated menu.

MY DARLING CLEMENTINE …And other mandarin family recipes.

Not all of the wines, spirits and beers mentioned in Food & Drink will be available at all LCBO stores. Prices are subject to change without notice. Cette publication est également disponible en français.

SPECTACULAR SIDES Side dishes that steal the spotlight.

8 FOOD & DRINK AUTUMN 2022

Forget the tricks and treat yourself.

$2 OFF until Oct. 9, 2022

$2 OFF until Oct. 9, 2022

Must be legal drinking age. Please drink responsibly.

dixonsdistilledspirits.com

LCBO NOTES

From our President & CEO

Dear Friends, As we head into fall, most of us are still feeling buoyed by memories of a fantastic summer. At the same time, the economy is on all our minds—understandable given the impact of high inflation rates at the gas pump and in grocery stores over the last few months. While the beverage alcohol industry is subject to the same influences, we continue to carry an extensive selection of products to suit every budget. Remember, it’s easy to browse and shop by price at lcbo.com. September marks the beginning of harvest season for many of our farmers, growers and producers, and there’s really no better time to get out and explore this beautiful and diverse province, especially the wineries, craft breweries, cideries and distilleries across Ontario. It’s a great opportunity to visit the places our products come from and meet the hospitable people who make them. After the uncertainties of the last few years, you’re bound to receive a warm welcome in return for your support. For those who prefer to stay close to home this fall, we’ve made it easier than ever to discover something local with our ‘Find Your Local Love’ campaign, highlighting 400 VQA wines. Please turn to pages 14 and 38 to read more about it. We also have dedicated Ontario Wine Country Boutiques in 20 select LCBO stores across the province, offering an elevated experience and an extensive assortment of Ontario VQA wines, including store-exclusive products, niche and seasonal items. Find the boutique nearest you by visiting lcbo.com/destinationcollection. Or if you’re already in one of our stores and having difficulty deciding on a local pick, speak to our product consultants who are specially trained in local product knowledge and food pairings. Whether shopping in store or online, don’t forget to take advantage of our fall Aeroplan promotion: earn

50 bonus points when you spend $50 or more on VQA wines at the LCBO between September 11 and October 8, 2022. Bringing you excellent local products is just one way in which the LCBO helps to create a sustainable Ontario. We’re also proud of our efforts throughout the year to drive meaningful change—and you should be proud of your contribution, too. Every dollar that you donate in our stores makes an impact in the lives of Ontarians in need of help. This autumn—between September 22 and October 16—we’re fundraising for United Way Greater Toronto which supports local communities across Ontario. Make the most of the remaining warm weeks ahead and have a healthy and happy fall season.

GEORGE SOLEAS President & CEO, LCBO

PHOTOGRAPH BY JAMES TSE

10 FOOD & DRINK AUTUMN 2022

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REDEEM 1,000 POINTS FOR A $10 LCBO GIFT CARD

why wait ? join for free now Plus, earn with our 200+ partners

Starbucks and the Starbucks logos are registered trademarks of Starbucks Corporation. ®Aeroplan is a registered trademark of Aeroplan Inc., used under licence. ®The Air Canada maple leaf logo is a registered trademark of Air Canada, used under licence.

EDITOR’S NOTES

Fall Loves Local

Summer has its charms, to be sure, but to me Autumn is the best time of year in Ontario. While the LCBO is embracing all things local in stores, we’re doing the very same thing on the pages of this issue—beginning with a tribute to the long and storied history of our very own “Wine Country,” starting on page 108. James Chatto traces the origins of four iconic wine regions, recommends a couple of standout wines from each that are well worth seeking out, then suggests some great spots to stop and grab a bite if you are out exploring this fall. Beyond local wine, starting on page 122, our Drinks Editor, Charlene Rooke, and Food Editor, Eric Vellend, have worked together to create the menu for a unique whisky-tasting dinner. Each course, bursting with seasonal ingredients, is paired with a local whisky—a great idea for entertaining as we start to take parties back inside. Moving to beer, drinks writer Jordan St. John has sourced truly local beers that are not only made here in Ontario

Thanksgiving, the menu starting on page 75 puts local vegetables front and centre for a unique twist on the traditional feast. Of course, cocooning is big this time of year, and we’ve thought of that too. If you need a wine with just the right spicy notes to pair with a good book or new episodes of your favourite show and an afternoon on the couch, you’ll find it on page 94. Or check out page 116 for suggestions for a Sunday supper that can be left to bake happily while you enjoy said book or binge; or page 178 for a bowl of Bourbon Caramel Popcorn to tide you over… Whether you’re curling up, hosting the gang or heading out this fall, we hope you enjoy the season—and this issue!

but that also feature local ingredients in their brews: check out page 67 to start stocking up. And last, but certainly not least, recipe developer Eshun Mott has turned her attention to local cider and developed three delicious recipes with that not-so-secret ingredient as the star (page 153). You’ll no doubt have noticed that pumpkin patches are starting to come to life—along with all the other seasonal delicacies appearing in markets. On page 102, Irene Matys transforms those “Gorgeous Gourds” into five delectable recipes that give new life to conventional dishes. In “Morning Harvest,” you’ll find several warm fruit dishes ideally suited to an autumnal brunch (page 147); then, speaking of heating things up, on page 43 we have a host of options for warm drinks that are perfect for welcoming guests. And, if you’re celebrating

This fall, the LCBO is making it easier than ever to find the Ontario wine that’s right for you—whether that means a new varietal, a specific region, or discovering sustainably made products from socially responsible wineries. Visit a store or lcbo.com and they’ll help you find it!

JODY DUNN Editor, LCBO Food & Drink

@lcbofoodanddrink

lcbofoodanddrink

LCBO

PHOTOGRAPH BY JAMES TSE

12 FOOD & DRINK AUTUMN 2022

ADVERTISING FEATURE

Fall is the harvest season, a time to gather and enjoy the rich, ripe flavours of home. In Ontario, we are spoiled for choice when it comes to juicy homegrown tastes, with so many surprising flavours to discover, including a world-class selection of delicious Ontario VQA wines made from 100 per cent Ontario grapes. And whether you’re searching for a sweet Riesling to pair with turkey or the perfect Baco Noir for pizza night, it’s certain you’ll find the perfect wine to match whatever you’re cooking up, growing right here in your backyard. FIND YOUR LOCAL LOVE

Strewn Two Vines Riesling Gewürztraminer VQA 467662 l 750 mL Aromatic & Flavourful (D – 7 g/L) l $13.95 Honey and citrus aromas and flavours define this extra-dry blend of two favourite varietals. Serve

Thirty Bench Winemaker’s Blend Riesling VQA 24133 l 750 mL Aromatic & Flavourful (M – 19 g/L) l $22.95 An elegant expression of one of Ontario’s best-known varietals. Floral, smoky and citrusy, this pairs well with everything from ham-and brie sandwiches to foie gras. A Vintages Essential

The Audacity of Thomas G. Bright Merlot Cab VQA 11564 l 750 mL Full-bodied and firm (D – 7 g/L) l $18.95 This is a full-bodied, dry red blend that offers prune and dark chocolate notes that show best with roast beef or bacon. 50 AEROPLAN POINTS

with turkey, vegetable soups or pasta salads. 50 AEROPLAN POINTS

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Featured products are available at select LCBO stores. Prices subject to change without notice. *VINTAGES Essentials Collection is always available at many LCBO locations. Visit lcbo.com/vintages-essentials Aeroplan offers in effect September 11-October 8, 2022. Visit LCBO.com/aeroplan for full terms and conditions. ®Aeroplan is a registered trademark of Aeroplan Inc., used under license. ®The Air Canada maple leaf logo is a registered trademark of Air Canada, used under license.

CALIFORNIA. IT’S WHERE THE MELTING POT MEETS WOK, AND THE KADAI MEETS THE COMAL.

CALIFORNIA WINES. AS ALIVE AS THE PLACE THEY’RE GROWN.

There are more than 10 million immigrants living in California. They come from Mexico, China, Taiwan, Vietnam, India, Korea and Iran. People with distinct cultures, rich traditions, and yeah, spicy foods. The wines we make here are made to stand up to those cuisines, to compliment them and celebrate them.

discovercaliforniawines.com sustainablewinegrowing.org

@CaliforniaWinesCanada @California.Wines.Canada

SAND POINT CHARDONNAY

LA CREMA SONOMA COAST PINOT NOIR from Nov 6 - Nov 26 $36.95 now $33.95

UNSHACKLED CABERNET SAUVIGNON

JOSH CELLARS PINOT NOIR from Sept 12 - Oct 9 $21.95 now $19.95

$16.95

$29.95 LCBO 17812

LCBO 11194

LCBO 17150

LCBO 719435

NEW

American Winery of the Year Wine Enthusiast

SUSTAINABLY CERTIFIED LODI RULES & CSWA

93 PTS Robert Parker Wine Advocate

Available Oct 8th

Aromas of plum and blackberry with a hint of olive are layered with flavours of black stone fruit, clove, and dried herbs.

Aromas of bright cherries, raspberries, and toasty oak with initial flavours of dark cherry, vanilla bean and secondary notes of earth and warm spice.

Aromas of Blackberry, cherry, leather and tobacco with flavours of red cherry, raspberry and boysenberry.

Layered with smooth tropical fruit and bright apple notes, our Chardonnay also has a toasty mellowness from oak aging.

TRINITY OAKS CABERNET SAUVIGNON

SLOW PRESS CABERNET SAUVIGNON

STERLING VINTNERS COLLECTION CABERNET SAUVIGNON

from Sept 12 – Oct 9 $17.95 now $15.95

from Sept 12 – Oct 9 $18.95 now $16.95

$17.95

LCBO 15761

LCBO 15760

LCBO 56366

Wine Enthusiast Best Buy

The Slow Press winemaking process delivers bold, concentrated flavours of dark fruits, blackberries and cassis, with notes of tobacco and leather.

Rich aromas of blackberries, with accents of caramel and mocha. The palate is smooth, delivering a balanced expression of plum, blackberry pie, and to‡ee.

Enticing aromas of ripe blackberries and juicy raspberries. Notes of green olive, dried herbs and vanilla complement robust black cherry flavours.

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Look for this logo for wines crafted sustainably from 85% or more grapes from certified sustainable vineyards.

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Product of California prices subject to change

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Available in Vintages September 24, 2022

Inside Scoop The latest bits, bites and sips to keep you in the know. BY ERIC VELLEND

Few can dispute the appeal of a deliciously simple Mimosa. The juice-and-bubbly combo can be reinterpreted many ways, allowing you to take advantage of seasonal ingredients while giving it your own personal signature. Check out the results of our market-fresh mimosa experiments on page 30. Market-Inspired Mimosas SEASONAL SIPS

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DARREN KEMPER; FOOD STYLING BY MICHAEL ELLIOTT; PROP STYLING BY CHRISTINE HANLON

FOOD & DRINK AUTUMN 2022 19

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Switzerland have this one. You can use the top to grill

onions, peppers and mushrooms to go with the raclette, though it will really stink up the house! What cheese should you use and how should it be prepared beforehand? Raclette is a semi-hard cow’s milk cheese with a mild, creamy, slightly nutty flavour. When melted, it has a silky texture. In Canada, the only Swiss brand I’ve seen is Emmi. There is also one from Quebec called Le 1608 de Charlevoix. I wouldn’t recommend any other cheeses because saltiness becomes an issue. Ask for it to be sliced 5 mm thick. You should be able to get it at any quality cheesemonger, but call ahead to make sure. wheel of cheese is cut it in half. You have a different oven, which broils the entire cut half. While someone goes around scraping it, the other half is broiling. The original raclette was done this way over hot stones next to a fire. What occasions do people eat raclette in Switzerland? Family gatherings and casual Are there other ways to raclette? For a bigger group, a whole

Raclette 101 ASK AN EXPERT Do you raclette? Well, you should. It’s an unbelievably fun way to enjoy cheese, and far easier to pull together than its better-known cousin fondue. To learn more about this trendy cheese centric meal, we talked to Swiss-born pastry chef Melanie Harris of Dundas Park Kitchen, a boutique pie company in Toronto.

What are the basics of raclette? Raclette cheese, boiled skin-on potatoes served hot, cornichons (little unsweetened pickles), bresaola (since you can’t find Swiss cured beef here) and Hungarian paprika. While the cheese melts on spatulas under the grill, you cut potatoes and cornichons on your plate, then scrape the bubbling cheese over

them. Sprinkle with a pinch of paprika, if desired, and serve bresaola on the side. It’s so simple—just be sure to use good cheese and good potatoes. Can you recommend a brand of raclette grill? Swissmar with eight slots and the cast-iron top. I did a lot of research, and many people in

celebrations. The way we barbecue here, they would raclette there.

Swissmar Classic Raclette Grill with Cast Iron Top, $195, swissmarshop.ca

PHOTOGRAPHY BY WADE HUDSON

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. EST 1904

AUTHENTIC QUALITY FROM THE ITALIAN ALPS.

There is a wine that transports you to the Italian Alps with just one taste. It’s Mezzacorona Pinot Grigio. An elegant epression of our beautiful land.

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Seven Up In response to Champagne’s popularity, the LCBO has bolstered its Champagne portfolio with seven new bottles. The list includes three under $70, two rosés and a few big-name favourites. If you have a taste for bubbly, stock up early for the holiday season to ensure festive toasts and good cheer into the New Year. WHAT ’ S NEW

For a small collection of recipes that are perfect with Champagne, visit lcbo.com/ fdautumn22.

Taittinger Prestige Rosé Champagne LCBO 25901, $86.15

Bollinger Champagne Special Cuvée LCBO 384529, $91.95

Gosset Grand Reserve Brut LCBO 25903, $85.95

Champagne Pommery Brut Rosé LCBO 25904, $79.95

Champagne Moutard Grand Cuvée LCBO 25900, $47.20

Duval-Leroy Brut NV Reserve LCBO 26577, $65.95

Laurent-Perrier La Cuvée Brut Champagne LCBO 25068, $69.95

LOCAL FAIR GAME

Mark your calendars! After going virtual in 2021, the Royal Agricultural Winter Fair returns as an in-person event. Running from November 4 to 13 at Toronto’s Exhibition Place, the grand old fair celebrates its 100th anniversary this year. Highlights include the world-class Royal Horse Show, nine food competition categories and the prestigious Ontario Craft Beer and Cider Awards. For tickets and more information, visit royalfair.org .

22 FOOD & DRINK AUTUMN 2022

CRAFTED FOR AUTUMN. Elevate your love of the season with Black River Cheese. Crafted from the finest of local ingredients, for the finest occasions. Black River Cheeses are exceptional on their own, and the cornerstone of inspired flavour pairings.

Scan to discover our expert pairing guide. blackrivercheese1901

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PANTRY RESCUE Turn up the Heat Spicy, sweet, sour and garlicky, sriracha has become the go-to hot sauce for many home cooks. The ubiquitous Huy Fong brand usually comes in 28-oz bottles, which can take a while to use up. (While it seemingly never goes bad, the colour and flavour start to dull after a year.) Fortunately,

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sriracha can add a jolt of tasty heat to dishes beyond noodles and soup. Add a squirt to mayo for a burger and sandwich spread. Whisk it into honey to drizzle on pepperoni pizza. Food Editor Eric Vellend thins it with red wine vinegar

IN SEASON Sauce Boss Despite its simple formula—see our

as a basting sauce for grilled chicken.

Classic Cranberry Sauce on page 158—there are many ways to play around with the flavours in this sweet-tart condiment. Try these twists to help shake up your turkey dinner this year.

JUST A PINCH BAR HACKS

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If you’ve ever noticed a bartender adding a few drops of clear liquid to your cocktail, chances are they’re salting it. Micro amounts of sodium can lift just about any drink—it tempers bitterness, amplifies sweet and sour, and brightens flavours. Saline solution is one part salt to 10 parts water by weight, which comes to 1/4 tsp (1 mL) fine sea salt dissolved in 1 tbsp (15 mL) water. Transfer it to a bitters bottle with an eye dropper, and try a drop or two in your next Martini or Paloma. For an even easier twist, add a pinch of salt to a Margarita before shaking and skip the salt rim.

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SAVE THE DATE Bala Cranberry Festival

From October 14 to 16, the Muskoka town of Bala will host its annual fall festival celebrating the cranberry with crafts, rides, live music, and plenty of food and drink. balacranberryfestival.on.ca

ILLUSTRATION BY DAVID SPARSHOTT

24 FOOD & DRINK AUTUMN 2022

STIRRED. NEVER SHAKEN.

Ingredients 2 strawberries, thinly sliced ¼ green apple, thinly sliced 2 lemon wheels 2 orange wheels 1oz fresh lemon 2oz fresh or frozen blueberries 1 scoop ice 1.5 pints Strongbow Original Dry Directions 1. Fill the carafe ¼ of the way with equal amounts of berries, apple, and citrus 2. Add the lemon juice and ice, pour Strongbow over the ingredients and give it a stir with a long bar spoon 3. Serve the carafe alongside stemless glassware garnished with extra fruit, citrus, mint or basil leaves Enjoy Responsibly FRUIT FUSION ORIGINAL DRY

STOCK UP HERE. MUST BE LEGAL DRINKING AGE.

BE A FORCE OF NATURE

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TRENDSPOTTING Grain Trust Out with the old and in with the ancient! To shake up your pantry, introduce a few of these mighty grains to your repertoire. They’re versatile, nutritious and uniquely delicious. BY CHRISTINE TIZZARD

FONIO This West African grain has been gaining traction in North America for good reason—it’s gluten-free, tastes like couscous and cooks up in 5 minutes. It’s wonderful served plain as a starchy side, and it’s terrific in both sweet and savoury preparations.

TEFF While teff is tiny, it packs a lot of protein—almost 7 grams per serving ( 1/4 cup /60 mL uncooked). The star of injera, Ethiopia’s fermented flatbread, teff is mild and nutty in flavour. It can be used in porridge, soups, stews and veggie burgers.

SORGHUM Popular in traditional Asian and African cooking, these nutrient-dense balls of gluten free goodness are reminiscent of Israeli couscous. It cooks up just like brown rice, but takes up to 1 hour. Bonus: it can be popped like popcorn!

FREEKEH Made from young green durum wheat, this Middle Eastern staple is similar to barley, but cooks up in half the time, about 20 minutes. It’s earthy, nutty and smoky with a slightly chewy texture. Use in place of bulgur, barley or rice.

TRENDSPOTTING Whisper Whiskies There is a new style of whisky that goes against the grain. There are no age statements or barrel-strength boastings—or hefty price tags. Called whisper whiskies, these subtle sprits are known for being light bodied, fruity and approachable. They’re the perfect entrée for whisky neophytes and affordable enough for cocktails.

Toki LCBO 465484, $61.25 This Japanese spirit is

Monkey Shoulder Blended Malt Scotch Whisky LCBO 414334, $53.25 Tasting of apricots, honey and vanilla, this beautifully

about as delicate as whisky gets. Pale, dry and citrusy, it shines brightest in a classic Whisky Highball— two parts club soda to one part whisky over ice with a lemon twist.

balanced Scotch is a smooth operator. Fine enough to be sipped

neat, or mix it into a next level Rob Roy or Rusty Nail.

26 FOOD & DRINK AUTUMN 2022

Fall in love with Caledon’s fiery fall tree canopies, scenic winding roads, seasonal ciders and beers, and the flavours of our farms and orchards. Discover routes that take you to some of our crown jewels, and check in at “ Fall for Caledon” on-farm pop-up events for special entertainment, contests, limited-edition beers and ciders, games, seasonal tastings and more.

Discover more at visitcaledon.ca/fall-for-caledon

Funded by: Federal Economic Development Agency for Southern Ontario

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Bird is the Word

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Looking for some new ways to approach the big bird? Then check out the F&D recipe archives. Our Indian-Spiced Turkey is butterflied (to cook quicker and more evenly), rubbed with spiced butter and served with mango chutney– spiked gravy. For a smaller crowd, try Couscous-Stuffed Boneless Turkey Saddle & Tart Cherry Gravy . The breast only roast gives you more control in the oven, yielding juicy white meat and Moroccan-inspired stuffing. If you want to stay traditional, direct your attention to the golden bird in Making the Cut (p. 51) with tips to carve like a pro.

Find these recipes at lcbo.com/fdautumn22

“Anytime a friend texts me from the LCBO, I send them a link to this Gamay. It’s light, juicy and ridiculously easy to drink, plus it goes with everything from baked salmon to roast beef.” Malivoire Farmstead Gamay VQA VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 591313, $21.95

“I’ve visited this winery many times over the years, and always enjoy their stuff. This off-dry Riesling is consistently excellent with zesty acidity and honied apricot flavours that pair

To get the inside scoop on big value wines, we asked Food Editor Eric Vellend what he’s drinking this fall. He chose local bottles from the Vintages Essentials collection, and both come in around $20. VALUE BUYS Fall House Wines

well with pork.” Tawse Sketches of

Niagara Riesling VQA VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 89029, $19.95

ILLUSTRATION BY DAVID SPARSHOTT

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NOW AVAILABLE

HIGH RYE DEEP CHARACTER ™

DISTILLERY OF THE DECADE 2020 • CANADIAN WHISKY AWARDS •

FROM THE DISTILLERY OF THE DECADE

ALBERTA DISTILLERS LTD

Reifel Rye™, Canadian Rye Whisky, 42% alc./vol., ©2022 Alberta Distillers, LTD. Chicago, IL.

LCBO# 27605

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SEASONAL SIPS Farmer’s Market Mimosas

SHOP & EARN

AUTUMN DEALS

Level up this brunchtime classic using this chart as guide. Simply chill homegrown ingredients, stir in-glass and adjust the sweetness with simple syrup, if desired. Finally, dress it up with an autumnal garnish. BY VICTORIA WALSH

While shopping at the LCBO, you can earn Aeroplan® bonus points on every purchase (one point for every $4). Here are three great VQA wines that would be welcome at any fall table. The offers are good until October 8— plus, if you spend $50 or more on VQA wines, you get 50 bonus points! For more information on how to sign up, visit lcbo.com/aeroplan.

Henry of Pelham Riesling VQA LCBO 268375, $14.95

Visit lcbo.com/ fdcocktail to watch this drink being made

2 oz non-alcoholic apple cider + 1/2 oz blanco tequila + 3 to 4 oz dry hard cider + ORCHARD MIMOSA Try layering two types of cider in a Champagne glass.

4 oz artisanal kombucha + 2 oz local craft lager + Fresh pear slices, fanned and skewered GRASSROOTS MIMOSA Mix it up with kombucha and beer in a coupe glass.

CRANBERRY COSMOSA Stir up this sweet tart cranberry twist in a cocktail glass.

2 oz Concord grape juice + 1 oz vodka + 3 to 4 oz Ontario brut sparkling wine + Rosemary skewered through a lime wheel CONCORD GRAPE MIMOSA Use juice from your local market and serve in a flute.

Kacaba Cabernet VQA LCBO 499384, $15.95

1 oz cranberry juice + 1 oz gin + 3 oz rosé sparkling wine + Orange twist and fresh cranberries

Lakeview Cellars Vidal Icewine VQA VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 522672, 200 mL, $22.95

A spiralled apple peel

WELL SPENT Spent grain isn’t just for farm animals anymore (see p. 67). Norfolk County’s Brew’ed Biscuits are a high-protein, high-fibre treat for your four-legged friends, whether they prefer peanut butter, apple cinnamon or pumpkin–sweet potato flavours. brewedbiscuits.ca

Aeroplan® is a registered trademark of Aeroplan Inc., used under license. The Air Canada maple leaf logo® is a registered trade-mark of Air Canada, used under license.

30 FOOD & DRINK AUTUMN 2022

DRINK IN GOLDEN HOUR

Ripe Blue Mountains apples fresh-pressed on-site in view of the hills. Orchard to table and truly sustainable.

Spy us at the LCBO

No added sugar Crisp & clean

And Spy like a local at our ciderhouse in Clarksburg.

@spydistillery spydistillery.com

Please Spy responsibly.

INSIDE SCOOP

LOCAL TEA OFF

HI /LOW More to Pour Whether you’re on a tight budget or ready to splurge, we’ve got excellent options for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, two of the friendliest grapes at the Thanksgiving table.

While the big names dominate the supermarket tea shelf, a number of Ontario companies are quietly producing uniquely delicious teas, many starring locally grown ingredients. Here are three favourites.

Hidden Bench Estate Organic Chardonnay VQA VINTAGES

Quails’ Gate Pinot Noir VQA VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 585760, $34.95 This B.C. red makes a strong case for West Coast Pinot. Expect a smoky nose, great concentration and a long finish.

Cono Sur Bicicleta Pinot Noir LCBO 341602 $12.55 Bargain Pinots are a rare bird. This Chilean bottle, however, soars with floral aromas and dried cranberry flavours.

Cave Spring Chardonnay VQA LCBO 228551, $16.95 Fresh and easy drinking with very little oak, this Niagara wine has “house white” written all over it.

ESSENTIALS 68817, $31.95

Complex, layered and beautifully balanced, this local Chard tastes like a white Burgundy that’s twice the price.

PLUCK TEA Jennifer Commins turned a

lifelong obsession into a thriving company that supplies tea to top restaurants across the province. Southbrook Berry is a fruity tea that uses leftover grape pomace from winemaking. pluckteas.com

Look for Autumn gift bags (LCBO 24720, $2.95) online and in select stores while supplies last.

BOREAL FOREST TEAS Lee-Ann Chevrette’s teas focus on organically grown herbs, and wild berries and plants sustainably harvested near her home in Thunder Bay. Northern Lights is a relaxing brew of chamomile, nettle, rosehips and blueberries. borealforestteas.ca

FOGGY RIVER FARM Kate and Phil Collins grow over 40 different varieties of herbs, many of which make it into their stunning loose-leaf herbal teas. Mint Punch is a soothing blend of four kinds of mint with a beguiling hint of tarragon. foggyriverfarm.com

32 FOOD & DRINK AUTUMN 2022

FALL into FLAVOUR

For where to buy & cocktail recipes, visit us at: www.fever-tree.com If ¾ of your drink is the mixer, shouldn’t you mix with the best? Using the finest, naturally-sourced ingredients from around the world, Fever-Tree mixers elevates your cocktail while keeping it simple. It’s as easy as 1 + 1 + 1.

@FeverTreeCanada | #MixWithTheBest

FEVER-TREE

ELEVATED GARNISH

SPIRIT

INSIDE SCOOP

New Brews with Fall Fare From a comforting bowl of squash soup to a slice of pumpkin pie, we’ve matched your favourite fall dishes with seasonal brews. MATCHMAKER

BAKING HACK PIECE OF CAKE If you’re a fan of fruitcake, it’s never too early to start thinking about Christmas. You can bake a traditional Christmas cake up to 3 months in advance and mature it with a biweekly booze bath. The process is simple. Once the cake comes out of the oven, poke holes on the surface with a skewer and brush with 2 tbsp (30mL) brandy or rum. Cool the cake, wrap it in foil and store in an airtight container in a cool, dark place. Every two weeks, brush the sides and top with another 2 tbsp (30mL) of spirit. While it may sound strange to age baked goods, the alcohol acts as a preservative, and you will have a dense, moist, flavourful cake on December 25. If you don’t have a trusted recipe, try our divine Rich Rum Fruitcake (recipe at lcbo.com/fdautumn22).

SQUASH SOUP

KINGSVILLE BREWING CZECH-STYLE LAGER

LCBO 10005, 473 mL, $3.25 The starchy-sweetness of this soup demands a crisp lager to refresh the palate. Kingsville’s Czech-Style Lager fits the bill, and its malty flavours complement the squash.

ROAST TURKEY

MUSKOKA BIG WORLD SMALL BATCH GERMAN FESTBIER LCBO 28089, 473 mL, $3.95 When you’re talking turkey, you need a beer that can stand up to the dark meat, but not overpower the white. German-style Festbier is the right brew for the job with herbal notes that flatter poultry.

MAC & CHEESE

GREAT LAKES BREWERY KARMA CITRA IPA LCBO 485367, 473 mL, $3.45 For uber-rich dishes like a bubbling mac and cheese, a bitter beer helps cut through the fat. Hopped-up Karma Citra IPA has a dry, piney finish made for this dish.

Bake it in a Bundt pan and ice it just before serving.

ILLUSTRATION BY DAVID SPARSHOTT

PUMPKIN PIE

DOUBLE TROUBLE PECAN PIE PORTER

LCBO 524876, 473 mL, $3.15 While most people would pair a pumpkin beer with pumpkin pie, Pecan Pie Porter brings new flavours to the table— coffee, burnt caramel and roasted nuts.

34 FOOD & DRINK AUTUMN 2022

Make moments great with LCBO gift cards. Available in-store or online at LCBO.com THE PERFECT GIFT, EVERY TIME.

Available at LCBO.com and select stores while quantities last.

36789

INSIDE SCOOP

Trendspotting A roundup of what we’re into this season.

Board Member

AIR SUPPLY Not everyone has the time, space or patience to age wine, which can be a problem if you like Bordeaux, Barolo or any big-ticket red built to last. While there are many aerators on the market—which help soften tannic wines—Brampton-based entrepreneur Rocco Giardullo felt there could be something better. Inspired by his son’s bath toy, he came up with the Vinovation O2 Wine Aerator. This unique cordless invention sits atop a custom carafe and circulates the wine like a fountain, turning over a 750-mL bottle three times every 2 1/2 minutes. Most wines take 10 minutes; an especially tough one will take twice that.

If you want to make a statement with your cutting board, check out the chopping blocks from Fredericks & Mae. Available in both small and large, and in a range of patterns, the heavy-duty boards are a clever upcycling of plastic chunks left over from producing solid colour cutting boards. The busy patterns hide knife marks and stubborn stains, and the boards are pretty enough to double as serving platters.

Fredericks & Mae Cutting Boards $48/$145, goodegg.ca

Paw Patrol

It looks like a tropical fruit and tastes like a tropical fruit, but the pawpaw is native to the U.S. and Canada—a few local farmers grow it in Niagara and along Lake Erie. On the outside, it resembles a small green mango; inside, large brown seeds are encased in pale yellow flesh tasting of mango and banana. (Its soft texture has earned it the nickname custard apple.) A pawpaw is best eaten straight up, or puréed and used raw in recipes like sorbets and frozen drinks. The season begins in late September and is roughly a month long, and you can find them at farmer’s markets and gourmet shops.

It’s fun to watch, and at the end you’ll get to enjoy a noticeably smoother wine.

Vinovation O2 Wine Aerator $140, o2wine.ca

Good catch The plant-based revolution has infiltrated the fish counter with two ready-to-eat products. The first is Save Da Sea Plant-Based Smoked Salmon (100 g, $9.99), which uses thinly sliced cooked carrots flavoured with smoke and seaweed to mimic

PURPLE HAZE If you’re a fan of food-friendly sour beers, keep your eye out for this limited-edition brew. Bellwoods Brewery Jelly King with Plum (LCBO 28546, 500 mL, $7.50) delivers the same bracingly tart, dry-hopped ale of its standard Jelly King with a healthy dose of plums, which lend juicy fruit flavours and a vibrant purple hue.

the taste and texture of smoked salmon. It’s excellent on a bagel with cream cheese, cucumbers and red onion. Jackfruit stands in for tuna in Save Da Sea Plant Based Tuna Salad (100 g, $8.99), which can go directly on rye with avocado and sliced tomatoes. goodrebelvegan.com

36 FOOD & DRINK AUTUMN 2022

The Glenfiddich range has received more awards since 2000 than any other single malt Scotch whisky in two of the world’s most prestigious competitions, the International Wine & Spirit Competition and the International Spirits Challenge

G L E N F I DD I CH . CA | S K I L F U L LY CR A F T E D . E N J OY R E S PON S I B LY. Glenfiddich ® Single Malt Scotch Whisky is a registered trademark of William Grant & Sons Ltd

ADVERTISING FEATURE

ONTARIO'S SIGNATURE VARIETALS FOR FALL FEASTS As the leaves change and cooler weather returns, rich, warming harvest flavours are on the menu. Here, in Ontario, we have an abundance of choices when it comes to finding the perfect local wine to pair with autumn feasts. Whether you are seeking a plummy Gamay to pair with a roast, a nutty Riesling to suit turkey or ham or a sweet Icewine for the cheese course, these delicious, share-worthy varietals show best at the dinner table–in gatherings with friends or family.

Find your local love this fall and give cheers!

13th Street Gamay Noir VQA

Vineland Estates Elevation St. Urban Riesling VQA 38117 l 750 mL l $22.95 l 36 g/L Harvested from vines imported from Germany, this nutty Ontario Riesling reflects the best of both worlds.

177824 l 750 mL l $19.95 l 2 g/L This beautifully complex and plummy red is the perfect partner to hearty roast.

37032

The Foreign Affair The Conspiracy VQA 149237 l 750 mL l $19.95 l 3 g/L The Ripasso method uses dried grapes to add richness and depth. This floral red features prune and dark fruit notes.

Magnotta Vidal Icewine VQA

Strewn Chardonnay Barrel-Aged VQA 522730 l 750 mL l $15.95 l 8 g/L

Saintly Rosé VQA 14882 l 750 mL l $19.95 l 6 g/L Strawberry, citrus and rhubarb notes make this crisp rosé a delight with salty appetizers.

587154 l 375 mL l $33.95 l 190 g/L Ontario excels at Icewine, and this mango and apricot flavoured one is a luscious ambassador for the style.

This is a buttery and balanced Chardonnay that delivers fig and citrus. A great accompaniment to harvest soups.

Featured products are available at select LCBO stores. Prices subject to change without notice.

Advertising Feature

FOR THE FRENCH, wine is defined by place. Understanding starts with a region; then the focus tightens down to a single vineyard. With a country so large and diverse, the options become almost infinite, but that’s where the fun begins. Each French wine has its own personality and its own place at the table – as different as the regions of France themselves. FRANCE The Taste of

THE 9 CLASSIC FRENCH WINE REGIONS

ALSACE Lying between the Vosges mountains and the Rhine, this north-eastern region of France is the heartland of opulent, single-varietal white wines. Made from Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris, Sylvaner or Muscat, they cover the spectrum from dry to sweet. LOIRE VALLEY Winding from Auvergne through “the Garden of France” all the way to the Atlantic, the Loire passes many historic winelands where Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc or Muscadet reign supreme. Cabernet Franc gives deliciously light, tangy reds. this is the birthplace of the concept of terroir. It’s also the home of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, here made into wines that set standards for the world. Burgundy’s vineyards (and 400 types of soil) has been judged and assessed for more than 600 years – no wonder BURGUNDY Every square inch of

BEAUJOLAIS Gamay is the beloved grape of the Beaujolais region, just to the south of Burgundy, making fruity, unpretentious reds with bright acidity and low tannins – so easy to match with food. More serious versions come from the ten named crus in the northern hills. CHAMPAGNE The chilly chalk hills of Champagne are ideally suited to making sparkling wine from Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier (whether performing solo or together). The age old process is long and laborious but the results are divine. PROVENCE France’s oldest wine region (2,600 years and counting) is also the only one to specialize in rosé – pastel coloured, dry, refreshing wines with a streak of minerality that perfectly suit the sun-soaked, laid back Provençal life-style.

BORDEAUX France’s largest wine

region is home to the most renowned (and imitated) red blends on the planet. Cabernet Sauvignon stars on the Left Bank of the Garonne River, Merlot on the Right. Local whites

include superb sweet Barsac and Sauternes.

LANGUEDOC Modern wine-growers delight in experimentation in the great southern region, where vines luxuriate in the hot, bright Mediterranean sun. Ripeness is a given; the goal is to find an accompanying finesse and a true expression of place. RHÔNE VALLEY Syrah and Viognier are king and queen of the northern valley, but 95 percent of Rhône wine comes from the south, where Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre revel in the Mediterranean climate. Blending creates rich, hearty reds and robust whites and rosés.

Photography by Louis-Laurent Grandadam.

BEAUJOLAIS

BORDEAUX

ALSACE

J. Lebegue Lussac St-Emilion 2019 LCBO 17900, $18.70 Mostly Merlot, this classic St-Emilion from an excellent vintage is full-bodied and smooth with a silky tannic structure that calls out for roast lamb. Juicy blackcurrant and cherry take centre stage over hints of chocolate and cedar. Gérard Bertrand Languedoc VINTAGES Essentials 413237, $16.95 With juicy cherries and plums, hints of smoke and dark chocolate, this spicy, concentrated blend of Syrah and Grenache is a spectacular match for meat off the barbecue. Like so many wines from the Languedoc, it’s also very good value. LANGUEDOC Famille Perrin Les Sinards Châteauneuf du Pape 2019 VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 926626, $39.95 A fascinating complexity of fruity, spicy, herbal, earthy and floral notes is contained in a smoothly muscular frame, to the delight of Châteauneuf du-Pape’s legons of fans. RHÔNE VALLEY

Willm Gewurztraminer Réserve VINTAGES 269852, $18.95 A voluptuous texture

Pisse-Dru Beaujolais LCBO 2881, $15.45 Here’s a wine that sums up the charm of Beaujolais, full of juicy red berry and plum flavours and just a hint of spice. Serve it slightly chilled with anything from salads to charcuterie to grilled tuna or salmon.

and bouquet of lychee and rose petal seduce the

palate, balancing the honeyed weight with a subtle acidity and hints of nutmeg and ginger. It’s a splendid accompaniment to smoked salmon or onion tart.

CHAMPAGNE

BURGUNDY

Perrin & Fils Miraval Côtes De Provence Rosé 2021 VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 342584, $24.95 Suggestions of redcurrant and rose petal dance up from the glass, where racy acidity and a salty hint await. The long finish is a sign of this wine’s quality – something to admire when serving Taittinger Brut Réserve Champagne LCBO 365312, $61.85 Established in 1734, Taittinger brings a remarkably high proportion of Chardonnay to its non-vintage blend, gifting grace and elegance. Aromas of white flowers and brioche are followed by lasting, honeyed peach flavours. This is quintessential Champagne. PROVENCE

La Chablisienne Les Vénérables

Sauvion Héritage du Cléray Muscadet Sèvre et Maine 2021 LCBO 323816, $16.55 YYou can almost sense the ocean in this crisp, clean, ethereal wine from famous vineyards near Nantes. Aromas of peach and citrus and a hint of yeasty lees hover over the taut acidity – a classic match for oysters and seafood. Vieilles Vignes 2018 VINTAGES 215525, $27.95 Old vines reach deep into Chablis’s unique limestone soil, thriving in the cool northern climate. This is Chardonnay in its purest form, steely and concentrated, subtle but complex – the definition of elegance. LOIRE VALLEY

Try it with rich meat or game casseroles.

it as an aperitif or with fresh seafood.

Cryo Hops ™

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NOW AVAILABLE at select LCBO stores!

Must be legal drinking age. CRYO HOPS TM is a trademark of Yakima Chief Hops, Inc. used with permission. ™Hop Valley Brewing Company, used under license. Brewed by Creemore Springs Brewery Ltd.

SMOKING PUMPKIN SPICE P. 158

SEASONAL

WarmWelcomes When cooler days arrive, turn up the temperature on your cocktails with a bit of heat. Think simmered drinks, smoky accents and seasonal flavours.

BY MICHELLE P.E. HUNT AND LAURA PANTER | PHOTOGRAPHY BY JAMES TSE

FOOD STYLING BY CHRISTOPHER ST. ONGE; PROP STYLING BY CATHERINE MACFADYEN

FOOD & DRINK AUTUMN 2022 43

WARM WELCOMES

Scotch Press Cocktail

French press cocktails are nothing new, but innovation in flavour combinations is taking this style of cocktail to new heights. Espresso coffee is mixed with Scotch whisky, orange peel, cinnamon and clove, and steeped to meld all of the flavours. 2 oz blended Scotch whisky, such as Grant’s Sherry Cask 8 YO Finish (LCBO 21532, $44.95) 1 oz Drambuie (LCBO 1867, $50.20) Peel of one orange 2 sticks cinnamon, broken into pieces 3 cloves 4 tbsp (60 mL) espresso blend coffee, ground for French press 2 cups (500 mL) boiling water Orange peel to garnish 1. Add all ingredients except garnish to a French press. Put on the lid and allow to steep 5 to 7 minutes. 2. Press, then pour into two heatproof mugs. Garnish each with an orange peel.

Serves 2

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