LCBO Food & Drink Autumn 2021

AUTUMN 2021

The Autumn Issue

COMPLIMENTS OF

Our heart, our soul, our passion lives here in Ontario.

For almost 50 years, we’ve been learning and growing

with our land, unlocking its secrets to craft world class wines.

And the world is taking notice.

Ontario VQA wines are winning prestigious awards

and earning international acclaim.

We’re on the cutting edge of the cool climate wine scene.

It all starts right here. Using only 100% Ontario-grown grapes

to make something truly unforgettable. Unmistakable.

That means every bottle of VQA wine is something to be proud of.

So raise a glass and join us in shaping the next generation of wine.

www.winecountryontario.ca

Please enjoy responsibly.

PAELLA TO POZOLE. PIZZA TO POUTINE. AND WINES FOR

EVERYTHING IN BETWEEN

California Wines. As alive as the place they’re grown.

Shawarma, schnitzel and strogano . Curry, couscous and cassoulet. Whether you like your food tangy or tart, fiery or fruity, creamy or crunchy, there’s a California wine that’s sure to make you happy as a clam. If you hate clams feel free to substitute your favourite mollusk. We’re easy.

discovercaliforniawines.com sustainablewinegrowing.org

@CaliforniaWinesCanada

@California.Wines.Canada

THE PRISONER CABERNET SAUVIGNON

$29.95 now $27.95 from Oct 11 to Nov 7 LA CREMA SONOMA COAST CHARDONNAY LCBO 962886 92pts Anthony Dias Blue Aromas of meyer lemon, gala apple and subtle hints of oak are followed by flavours of white stone fruit, yellow plum and honeydew melon.

$17.95 now $15.95 from Sept 13 – Oct 10 MÉNAGE À TROIS CABERNET SAUVIGNON LCBO 17747 2021 Green Medal Business Juicy cherries, blackberries and whispers of dark chocolate culminate in this elegantly smooth, seductive dry Cabernet Sauvignon. SUSTAINABLE

TRIBUTE CABERNET SAUVIGNON

$19.95 now $16.95 from Sept 13 – Oct 10 LCBO 20807 92pts The Tasting Panel 90pts Wine Enthusiast

$79.95 LCBO 20723

NEW LAUNCH SEPT 18 TH

SUSTAINABLE

SUSTAINABLE

Aromas of black cherry and ripe plum are layered with vanilla and baking spice. Concentrated dark fruit flavours culminate in a lush, full mouthfeel and a lengthy finish.

Aromas and flavours of cassis, blackberry, black cherry and ripe plum give way to earthy notes, tea, vanilla bean and shaved dark chocolate.

CAYMUS-SUISUN GRAND DURIF PETITE SIRAH

SAND POINT CABERNET SAUVIGNON

JOSH CELLARS CHARDONNAY

$69.95 LCBO 15425 93pts KWG

$18.95 now $16.95 from Sept 13 – Oct 10

$16.95 LCBO 11193

LCBO 561100

NEW LAUNCH SEPT 4 TH FROM THE WAGNER FAMILY

SUSTAINABLE

Full bodied, yet smooth and mellow with richness and depth. The aroma and flavours are a pleasing blend of ripe raspberries and fresh dark cherries.

Aromas of tropical fruits and citrus married with suble oak notes. This wine is a great balance of bright citrus and honey with hints of juicy peach.

A hint of pomace, vanilla and floral potpourri adds freshness to the nose, while the wood on this wine cradles but never defines the fruit.

Look for this logo for wines crafted sustainably from 85% or more grapes from certified sustainable vineyards.

Product of California

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Made using the ½nest naturally sourced ingredients including a blend of gingers from Nigeria, the Ivory Coast & Cochin; individually crafted to enhance the world’s ½nest spirits.

Where to buy & cocktail ideas visit: fever-tree.com @fevertreecanada | #mixwiththebest

TABLE OF CONTENTS

88 Spice It Up!

Features

88 Spice It Up! By Victoria Walsh

Kick up the heat with a roster of seasonal cocktails aglow with warm, spicy flavours. 94 Wine and Dine By Tonia Wilson-Vuksanovic Classic techniques and delectable recipes—all you need to know about cooking with wine.

100 Afternoon Delights By Lindsay Guscott

Make the most of autumn’s last warm days with a casual alfresco lunch menu everyone will love.

108 A Guide to Cider

By Crystal & Tara Luxmore Cider has gone from niche to necessity—discover the many styles and how excellent they are with food. 116 Crushing on Garlic By Eric Vellend Roasted or raw, recipes that celebrate the glorious versatility of the stinking rose. ON THE COVER Squash Tart with Garlic Confit, Gruyère & Rosemary, recipe on page 174. Photography by James Tse.

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FOOD & DRINK AUTUMN 2021

TABLE OF CONTENTS

47 Market Share

Departments FOOD

47 SEASONAL MARKET SHARE By Monda Rosenberg with Renée S. Suen & Victoria Walsh A fabulous non-traditional Thanksgiving menu makes the most of local farmers’ markets.

141 QUICK & EASY READY, SET, CHILL! By Michael Elliott

Built to last, these simple make-ahead salads are go‑to sides all week long.

155 BASICS BATCH WORK

65 FLAVOURS STEW AND IMPROVED By Eric Vellend

By Jennifer MacKenzie How-to, tips, tools and recipes for preserving fresh fall fruits and vegetables.

Hearty vegetarian stews satisfy every appetite—no meat required!

79 TWISTS THREE OF A KIND By Amy Rosen

Top Niagara chefs share their favourite ways of cooking and serving a roast chicken.

DRINK 57 LOCAL IN GOOD COMPANY By James Chatto

123 TRENDSETTERS LEADERS OF THE PACK By Victoria Walsh

Ontario wineries are working harder than ever for the environment and the community.

Meet the inspiring women and men who set the trends and lead the way in Ontario’s hospitality industry.

135 101 THAT’S AMARO! By Christine Sismondo Get the lowdown on Italy’s much-loved and surprisingly versatile bitters.

71 GIFTING GIVE AND TAKE By Charlene Rooke

Discover great new products and old favourites to give (or try) all through the season.

147 ORIGINS WHISKY BUSINESS By Jessica Huras Hone your knowledge and mixology skills with three classic whisky cocktails.

135

In every issue

183 RECIPE INDEX 183 Source Resource

16 EDITOR’S NOTES

25 INSIDE SCOOP By Eric Vellend The latest bits, bites and sips to keep you in the know.

184 the back page A SPLASH OF WHISKY By Michelle Lucas Larving Underappreciated in the kitchen, rye whisky enhances a banana pudding.

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AUTUMN 2021 FOOD & DRINK

Coming next issue Available November 10 Superstar desserts Fabulous festive showstoppers Deluxe mixology Add glamour to your Christmas cocktails Off to a dazzling start A host of delectable new appetizers Holiday roasts The best cuts and sides—plus ideas for leftovers

Many of the products featured in this issue are available to purchase online at lcbo.com.

Chief Marketing and Digital Officer, LCBO Vanda Provato Editor Jody Dunn Art Directors Karen Lim

Publication Assistant Piper MacFadyen Production Assistant

Everton Smith Food Stylists Lindsay Guscott, Eshun Mott, Christopher St. Onge, Dara Sutin Prop Stylists Catherine MacFadyen, Andrea McCrindle, Shelly Shnier, Genevieve Wiseman Contributors James Chatto, Flannery Dean, Michael Elliott, Lisa Fielding, Lindsay Guscott, Jessica Huras, Michelle Lucas Larving, Crystal Luxmore, Tara Luxmore, Jennifer MacKenzie, Amy Rosen, Monda Rosenberg, Christine Sismondo, Michele Sponagle, Renée S. Suen, Tonia Wilson-Vuksanovic Publisher Wayne Leek Advertising Sales

For general inquiries about Food & Drink magazine or information about LCBO products and policy, please contact helloLCBO online at hellolcbo.com, or call toll-free 800•668•5226 or 416•365•5900. TTY Only: 416•864•6898 or 800•361•3291. All advertiser applications are subject to the terms and conditions of the LCBO’s advertising agreement. Food & Drink is published five times a year by the Liquor Control Board of Ontario. Volume 29, Number 1. Food & Drink is printed on paper that contains 10 percent post‑consumer fibre. Food & Drink is recyclable in communities participating in magazine recycling programs.

Cathy Cicchini Drinks Editor Charlene Rooke

Food Editor Eric Vellend Content Editors Suresh Doss Victoria Walsh Publication Coordinator Leslie Bolter Graphic Designers Dominique Patafio Pat Turbach Production Coordinator Judy Haverkort

Publication Mail Agreement No. 40064521 Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Food & Drink , 55 Lake Shore Boulevard East, Toronto, ON, M5E 1A4 ISSN 1195-5988

Not all of the wines, spirits and beers mentioned in Food & Drink will be available at all LCBO stores. Prices are subject to change without notice. Cette publication est également disponible en français.

Kirby Miller, Beaches Media Services kirby@beachesmediaservices.com

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AUTUMN 2021 FOOD & DRINK

NEw

MATCHA CREAM LIQUOR

THE DISTINCTIVE TASTE OF MATCHA WITH AN INDULGENT CREAM FINISH.

C FFEE TEA? From the makers of TIA MARIA COLD BREW COFFEE LIQUOR

Please Enjoy Responsibly. Represented by PMA Canada Ltd. www.pmacanada.com

LCBO NOTES

From our President & CEO

Dear friends, As summer eases into fall, we re- main grateful for the ability to socialize safely again, going out with friends and family and entertaining more often at home. It is the time of year when the LCBO always pays special attention to Ontario—this year more than ever, as local businesses gather momentum after the trials of the last 18 months. A key part of the LCBO’s mandate is to have a positive impact on the prov- ince and our local producers, and this fall we are doing that in several different ways. First, I am excited to introduce our new fall campaign: For the Love of Local. This is an opportunity for all our neighbours—everyone from LCBO experts to local entrepreneurs, new On- tarians and people whose families have lived here for generations—to share their personal knowledge of the region they call home. We will be asking them to pick favourites from the array of 450 VQA wines the LCBO carries, while we also feature a different Ontario wine region each week on social media, high- lighting its wineries and the great vari- etal wines each area produces. You can find out more, and check out our VQA product map, at LCBO.com. Meanwhile, we are continuing our partnership with the United Way with a fundraising campaign to support local communities through COVID-19. Last year, we raised over $2.5 million; this fall, thanks to your generosity, we are committed to strengthening our impact. Another new program we are launching is the Spirit of Inclusion

Initiative, specifically designed to create opportunities for diverse women to enter, advance and thrive in the beverage alcohol industry. For our first year, we are providing scholarships and bursaries to those regis- tered in Niagara College’s various beverage alcohol programs, offering financial support for tuition, childcare and transportation costs, as well as support through a mentor- ship program. At Brock University, we are establishing a research scholar position to study industry diversity in Ontario and the barriers diverse women sometimes face in their careers. We are also providing mobility bursaries to assist students who are study- ing wine management at Brock complete a double degree through the university’s part- nership with Burgundy School of Business in France. In years to come, we will be scaling up the Spirit of Inclusion Initiative to reach students and professionals across Ontario. All this happens because of the Good Partnerships between the LCBO and the province’s post-secondary institutions, chari- table organizations and trade partners. To me, that underlines one of the lessons of the pandemic: that we are at our best when we pull together as a community and support every one of our neighbours. Wishing you a healthy and happy fall season.

PORTRAIT BY JAMES TSE

Coming soon to LCBO. Earn Aeroplan points for shopping at LCBO. Visit lcbo.com to learn more.

George Soleas President & CEO, LCBO

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AUTUMN 2021 FOOD & DRINK

PAIRS BEAUTIFULLY WITH FALL. Celebrate the tastes of the season with Black River Cheese. Crafted from the finest of local ingredients, for the finest of occasions. Exceptional on their own, and the cornerstone of inspired flavour pairings. Discover our pairing suggestions at blackrivercheese.com.

EDITOR’S NOTES

Cheers to a new season!

Fingers crossed that the socializing we enjoyed this summer will continue to pick up momentum as we head into fall. It still feels novel and exciting to get together again with friends and family, and I hope all our calendars are full every weekend—especially over Thanksgiving! If you’re looking for inspiration for your gatherings, this issue is full of ideas to make the most of every kind of occasion. First, though, we would be remiss if we didn’t raise a toast to those who have weathered the storm and stayed the course through the pandemic. In Leaders of the Pack, on page 123, we shine a spotlight on the men and women who continue to set the trends in Ontario’s hospitality and beverage industry—each one of them worthy of your attention. And on page 57 we focus on Ontario winemakers and all that they are doing for the environ- ment and their communities. Autumn is tailor-made for savoury cocktails. Ranging from classic whisky cocktails (with some twists to freshen them up) on page 147 to a collection of deeply flavoured seasonal drinks with a spicy kick (page 88)—there are so many options you’ll be able to greet your guests with something new right up until Christmas. And if you’ve heard of Amaro, but aren’t exactly sure how to use it, Christine Sismondo

breaks the whole subject down on page 135 (spoiler alert—it’s great both before or after Thanksgiving dinner). Of course, autumn is also the season for fabulous local produce. Farmer’s markets are in their glory and we’ve designed a menu starting on page 47 that takes full advantage of what’s fresh right now. It’s a unique twist on the Thanksgiving feast—remember, we want to try new things—perfectly paired with all-local drinks. Speak- ing of local, don’t miss three Niagara chefs each sharing their own delicious version of roast chicken (page 79): what could be more perfect for your next Sunday dinner? And, in the spirit of back to school, we challenge you to master the art of cooking with wine on page 94. We’ve honed in on the techniques you need to know and what wines to cook with, then bundled that knowledge into delectable seasonal recipes to test your skills. As we all settle back into the rou- tines of fall and embrace the cooler days and cozy evenings, we hope this issue of Food & Drink is something you turn to again and again when making new memories with your family and friends.

PORTRAIT BY JAMES TSE

Did you know? You can access digital issues back to 2015 at lcbo.com/ foodandrink and get first access to new issue releases

@lcbofoodanddrink

lcbofoodanddrink

by signing up for mylcbo emails at mylcbo.com.

LCBO

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AUTUMN 2021 FOOD & DRINK

30 YEARS AGO, A STAR WAS BORN

Three decades ago, a pioneer burst onto the world’s wine stage. Since the very beginning, Trius Red

quickly captured the attention of wine critics across the globe. With a Best Red Wine in the World win

and 30 vintages later this Canadian icon continues to prove its star status has serious staying power.

ADVERTISING FEATURE

GO GREEN, GO LOCAL Ontario VQA wines have it all Fall is the ideal time to show your love for Ontario’s bounty of incredible wines grown in environmentally conscious and socially responsible ways. That love for local should start with Ontario VQA – wines made from 100% Ontario-grown grapes and crafted right in our own backyard. Thirteen VQA Ontario winemakers have levelled up their eco-friendly practices and been designated Sustainable Winemaking Ontario Certified. These wineries have committed to sustainable winemaking practices like conserving water and energy and reducing waste. They also protect the health and well-being of their communi- ties by being good neighbours and pursuing socially responsible initiatives and employment practices. Sustainability isn’t just a method or a process for these Ontario VQA wineries, it’s a way of life rooted in respect for home. Show your support for wines that go the extra mile by bringing eco-friendly VQA wines home this fall that are desig- nated Sustainable Winemaking Ontario Certified.

Château des Charmes Sauvignon Blanc VQA Light & Crisp 391300 l 750 mL l $15.95 A customer favourite thanks to its lime and gooseberry aromas and passion fruit and peach flavours.

Henry of Pelham Baco Noir Old Vines VQA

Full-bodied & Smooth 459966 l 750 mL l $19.95

Big and bold, this complex red features coffee, plum and spice notes. Perfect for steak night!

It’s wine you can feel good about. Cheers to Ontario VQA wines.

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LOOK FOR THIS LOGO

C ave Spring Dry Rosé VQA Medium-bodied & Dry 295006 l 750 mL l $15.95 This crisp salmon-pink rosé boasts strawberry and melon aromas and fresh citrusy flavours.

S trewn Chardonnay Barrel Aged VQA Full-bodied & Rich 522730 l 750 mL l $14.95 This buttery Chardonnay delivers apple and oak aromas and flavours of vanilla and fig.

Pelee Island Pinot Noir VQA Light-bodied & Fruity 135939 l 750 mL l $14.95 Soft cherry notes mingle with a touch of spice and dark chocolate in this elegant red.

Reif Estate Vidal Icewine VQA A VINTAGES ESSENTIAL * Lusciously Sweet 544791 l 200 mL l $24.95 Ontario icewine is internationally renowned. This vibrant example offers peach and honey flavours.

Flat Rock Twisted VQA A VINTAGES ESSENTIAL *

Aromatic & Flavourful 1578 l 750 mL l $17.95

Riesling, Gewurztraminer and Chardonnay come together in this zesty blend that’s ideal for sipping.

Featured products are available at select LCBO stores. Prices subject to change without notice. * Vintages Essentials Collection is always available at many LCBO locations. Visit lcbo.com/vintages-essentials

Presented by Nespresso

THERECYCLING SOLUTION

From plantation to cup, Nespresso brings you top- quality, sustainably grown coffee. Now a remarkable program closes the circle of sustainability, recycling everything from capsules to coffee grounds.

ALUMINUMCAPSULES

Why use pure aluminum for our capsules? Because it protects the freshness and taste of our coffee from roaster to cup more effectively than any other material,. Our aluminum capsules seal out oxygen, light and humidity, all of which can affect the quality of coffee. And there’s more. Aluminum is 100-percent and infinitely recyclable. With our system, nothing is wasted. Nothing is thrown away.

CARBONNEUTRALITY

All this is part of a bigger picture. Some years ago, we set out to achieve an ambitious goal – to make sure that every cup of Nespresso coffee is truly carbon neutral by 2022. We began by reducing carbon emissions, first in our business operations and now in our supply chain and product life cycle, and by investing in proven offsetting projects such as planting trees in coffee plantations and surrounding landscapes. Now, thanks to you, our customers, helping us to recycle capsules and grounds, we’re very nearly there!

RECYCLING PROGRAM

Nespresso has created a unique program to retrieve your used capsules. Here in Ontario, every purchase of Nespresso capsules includes a free red bag. Fill it with your used capsules, then simply seal it and drop it into a Canada Post mailbox. Postage is fully prepaid. We’ll take it from there.

INNOVATION

COFFEE GROUNDS: Once that red bag arrives at the recycling facility, the coffee grounds are carefully separated from the used capsules, thanks to a mechanical process Nespresso has pioneered, the first of its kind in Canada. The grounds are then turned into rich compost which is delivered free to Canadian farms. Adding this valuable organic material to the soil improves aeration and encourages micro-organisms that benefit healthy plant growth.

ALUMINUM RECYCLING: Meanwhile, every used Nespresso capsule collected through the Nespresso recycling program is recycled. One of the great virtues of aluminum is that it can be used and reused an infinite number of times. In fact, an estimated 75% of all the aluminum ever produced is still in circulation today. We’ve set up local partnerships all over the world, repurposing our capsules to make things like pens or bicycle frames – and, of course, more capsules.

ADVERTISING FEATURE

LOCAL WINES FOR YOUR THANKSGIVING TABLE Thanksgiving meals tend to rely heavily on the same old classics. But what if you changed things up this year, with contemporary recipes and just the right wine pairing from fantastic Ontario wineries? Consider, for example, Trius Red. Its bold fruity flavours are excellent with rare roast beef on crostini, sliders with slow-roasted pork shoulder or thin slices of blackened lamb. Pelee Island Lola Cabernet Franc Cabernet Sauvignon VQA has spice, mint and herbal notes that sing with a luxe charcuterie board outfitted with nuts, gourmet crackers, cured meats and cheeses. Cozy sipping by the outdoor fireplace calls for the rounded berry and plum flavours of the versatile Open Cab 2 Merlot VQA. And the bright and zesty Sandbanks Riesling VQA works equally well with turkey as it does with savoury vegetarian fare like roasted cauliflower and chickpeas. Make your harvest celebration memorable with a selection of delicious Ontario VQA wines and casual recipes. It may even become a new tradition!

Open Cab 2 Merlot VQA

Pelee Island Lola Cabernet Franc Cabernet Sauvignon VQA 618223 l 750 mL l $14.95 Medium-bodied & Fruity (D – 9 g/L) Dark, dry and lively, this Cabernet Franc is ideally suited to the region’s sunny growing season. Savour its robust flavours of cedar and dark berries.

Sandbanks Riesling VQA

Trius Red VQA 303800 l 750 mL l $24.95 Medium-bodied & Fruity (XD – 4 g/L) Inspired by Bordeaux vintages, thispremium fruity red blend has enticing floral, black-currant, chocolate, toasted nut and cedar notes.

134957 l 750 mL l $12.95 Medium-bodied & Fruity (D – 11 g/L) Enjoy candied cherry, raspberry and plum, plus a hint of chocolate and spice aromas, all paired with a slight minerality, in this dry Ontario red.

139022 l 750 mL l $14.95 Aromatic & Flavourful (D – 16 g/L) This classic medium- bodied white from an acclaimed winery has floral, quince, grapefruit and even petrol tones that lead to a fresh citrusy finish.

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Featured products are available at select LCBO stores. Prices subject to change without notice.

BOLDER NAME A DUO

Inside scoop The latest bits, bites and sips to keep you in the know.

By Eric Vellend | PHOTOGRAPHY by maya visnyei

Autumn is in the air, and we’ve got the Thanksgiving tips you need, including a handy stuffing chart, turkey-friendly reds and new uses for leftover canned pumpkin. If you’re stocking your bar, check out brand-new Prosecco Rosato, pastry-flavoured beers and a few spooky bottles for Halloween.

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26 Say “cheese” 26 Light fixtures

26 Curry up 28 Drink pink 28 Stock options 28 Drinks that go “boo!” 30 Joy and grain 30 Shape of you 32 Barrel strength 32 Weeknight wonders 32 Who to follow 34 Good stuff 34 Chuseok 36 Smooth operator

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36 Orange crush 36 Dessert storm 38 What to do with all those apples

Orange crush 36

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FOOD & DRINK AUTUMN 2021

INSIDE SCOOP

FAUX BETTER

Say “cheese” While the quality of plant-based cheese substitutes has grown by leaps and bounds, many of them don’t melt like the real thing. Enter VEGCHEESE, a Vaughn, Ont.- based company founded by Lori Sroujian, which makes a lovely mozzarella proxy that’s perfect for pizza and hot panini. And if you’re vegan and crave poutine, the company also makes curds that soften while holding their shape. Its “cheeses” are all nut- and gluten-free, and can be ordered directly from vegcheese.com.

Light fixtures SEASONAL SIPS

As summer’s heat gives way to the coolness of fall, it’s time to make the transition from crisp whites to light reds. Bersano Costalunga Barbera d’Asti DOCG (LCBO 348680, $14.80) from Piedmont, Italy, shows off Barbera’s electric acidity—it’s the perfect pour on pizza night. On Thanksgiving, it’s hard to go wrong with Pinot Noir. New Zealand’s Villa Maria Private Bin Pinot Noir Marlborough (LCBO 146548, $19.95) is a fine example, with raspberry flavours and a touch of spice. Tart, juicy and refreshing, Malivoire Gamay VQA (VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 591313, $19.95) is about as light as red wine gets. Gently chill it and serve with burgers.

Curry up THE TAKEAWAY

The bold spices and slow-cooked dishes of Indian cuisine make it an irresistible takeout option in fall. It’s more commonly paired with aromatic whites such as Gewürztraminer or off-dry Riesling, but if you’re a red wine drinker, try it with Featherstone Cabernet Franc VQA ( VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 64618, $19.95). This complex Ontario red is especially good with anything charred in a tandoor oven, and its floral profile is terrific with vegetable dishes.

SEE SOURCE RESOURCE; PORTRAIT BY DARIUS BASHAR

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AUTUMN 2021 FOOD & DRINK

CERTAIN THINGS NEVER GET PUT AWAY.

Make any meal unforgettable with Le Creuset.

Vancouver · Edmonton · Calgary · Winnipeg · Toronto · Montréal · Qu é bec · Halifax

LeCreuset.ca

INSIDE SCOOP

KITCHEN HACK Stock options

WHAT’S NEW Drink pink

For the longest time, the strict Prosecco DOC Consortium forbade its wineries from making a pink version of the beloved sparkler. Finally— finally!—Prosecco Rosato is now a thing, with Pinot Noir giving the wine its beautiful blush. For more information, including what’s available now at the LCBO, turn to page 84.

Homemade vegetable stock is an import- ant building block of plant-based cooking, especially in fall. Here are three umami-rich additions to take it to the next level.

Casillero del Diablo Reserva Devil’s Collection Red LCBO 436956, $15.95

KOMBU NATION For every 4 cups (1 L) of water, soak a hand- size piece of dried kombu for 30 minutes. Bring it to a boil over medium-high heat and strain over the vegetables for your stock.

CAP IT Add a few dried shiitake mushrooms to the pot to create a deep, woodsy flavour. Fish them out at the end, squeeze dry and save for soups or stir-fries.

Lake of Bays Pumpkin Ale LCBO 480012, 473 mL, $3.95

Notaboo E.T. 51 Premium Vodka LCBO 548362, $41.95

Drinks that go “boo!” SEASONAL SIPS If you’re deciding what to pour on Halloween, here are three options to bring spooky spirit to your glass while adding to the haunted décor.

SCRAP GOLD When making fresh tomato sauce, save the skins and seeds, and freeze in small containers. They will add flavour, colour and the gentlest hint of acidity to your stock.

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AUTUMN 2021 FOOD & DRINK

NEW

V E L V E T CREAM LIQUOR

REFRESHINGLY SMOOTH WITH THE UNMISTAKABLE TASTE OF DISARONNO

p e r f e c t o v e r i c e .

Please Enjoy Responsibly. Represented by PMA Canada Ltd. www.pmacanada.com

INSIDE SCOOP

Shape of you WINE SCHOOL A short guide to five common wine bottle shapes.

Bordeaux The most popular shape on the planet, this bottle is commonly used for Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc and signature blends. Some believe the broad shoulders are for trapping sediment from aged wines, but the bottle was most likely designed to differentiate it from Burgundy. Burgundy The reason for this shape? It was easy to make back when bottles were hand-blown. It’s almost always used for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir (Burgundy’s signature grapes), plus light-bodied reds such as Gamay and barrel-aged whites. Alsace Also known as Mosel, this svelte number is synonymous with Ries- ling, though you can find it holding other Alsatian varietals, including Gewürztraminer and Sylvaner. The sleek bottle was designed to fill the hulls of riverboats, which shipped them along the Rhine. Sparkling The gently sloping shoulders, deep punt (the recess on the bottom) and heavy glass all contribute to the bottle’s strength, which is needed to resist the pressure of the gas trapped in the wine.

TRENDSPOTTING

Joy and grain A Toronto-based bakery is upcycling a by-product of the brewing industry with delicious results.

To make beer, brewers first cook up a huge vat of watery porridge and then filter the liquid from the solids. The liquid is fer- mented into beer, and the solids are called “spent grains.” The dilemma is what to do with this by-product. Some of Ontario’s craft brewers ship their spent grains to farmers for animal feed and compost. Toronto’s Henderson Brewing, however, sends a portion to the bakery next door. Dihan Chandra (above), founder of The Spent Goods Company (spentgoods.ca), says they use Henderson’s leftover grains

as an ingredient in their popular beer ba- gels, pretzels and breads. “We help divert tonnes of product that would otherwise go to landfills. The grains retain high protein and fibre, so we upcycle them into our products for added flavour and texture.” Home cooks and brew pubs have also gotten creative, incorporating spent grains into granola, pizza dough and even dog biscuits. If you’re curious, ask your local brewery if they can spare a bag. Call ahead, and make sure to buy some beer too! – Tonia Wilson-Vuksanovic

Dessert This slim bottle (200 or 375 mL) is for icewine and other dessert wines, since they are consumed in small pours after a meal.

IMAGES BY SARAH WIGGINS

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AUTUMN 2021 FOOD & DRINK

INSIDE SCOOP

Weeknight wonders If you filled your fridge with market veggies and need some weeknight inspiration, look no further than the Food & Drink recipe archive. There’s the quick, inexpensive Daikon Radish Stir-Fry with Shiitakes, Carrot & Slivered Pork, flavoured with ginger, garlic and soy. You can make fish and two sides on one sheet pan with the colourful Mustard-Crumb Salmon with Sweet & Sour Cabbage and Roast Potatoes. Finally, on Meatless Mondays, try our Simple Spicy Soba Noodle Soup, a ramen-style bowl that can be pulled off in less than 20 minutes.

TRENDSPOTTING Barrel strength If you like generously oaked red wine, then there is a new style that’s right up your alley. Some wineries—mostly in Australia and California—are partially aging select reds in barrels that once contained spirits. A portion of Robert Mondavi Private Selection Rum Barrels Merlot (LCBO 13734, $19.95) is aged in used rum casks, lending flavours of honey, vanilla and chocolate. Jacob’s Creek Double Barrel Cabernet Sauvignon (LCBO 22197, $20.95) is finished in Irish whiskey barrels, which gives it notes of caramel and olive.

Find the recipes at lcbo.com/fdautumn21

Whether it’s on TikTok (where she has 1.5 million followers and count- ing!) or Instagram (a more modest 341 K), Toronto’s Jamie Milne is a social media sensation. The food and travel blogger focuses her talents on hyperspeed cooking demos of fun, easy, delicious recipes like One-Pot Spicy Vodka Pasta and French Onion Grilled Cheese. Give her a follow and watch the wow factor dazzle your dinner table. Who to follow: @everything delish

Shop the issue at lcbo.com/fdautumn21

IMAGE BY JAMIE MILNE

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INSIDE SCOOP

Good stuff DINNER’S READY

TRADITIONS

Whether you bake it in a pan or inside the bird, stuffing is a key player on the Thanks- giving table. The recipe follows a basic formula: Bread, preferably stale, is cubed and left to dry on a tray; aromatic vegetables are diced and sautéed; handfuls of herbs are chopped; and then everything is mixed and moistened with poultry or vegetable stock. Using this chart as a guide, stuff your guests this Thanksgiving.

Chuseok Held this year from September 20 to 22, Chuseok is one of the most important holidays in the Korean calendar. To learn more, we sat down with Michelle Lee (left), whose family runs Toronto’s popular Kimchi Korea House restaurant (kimchikoreahouse.ca). Howwould you best explain Chuseok to a non-Korean? It’s a three-day holiday starting on the 15th day of the 8th month of the lunar calendar, when we celebrate the abundance of the year’s harvest and pay tribute to our ances- tors. In North America, it’s sometimes re- ferred to as “Korean Thanksgiving” because families travel long distances to gather, share a large feast and exchange presents. What are a few rituals of Chuseok? Visiting the graves of ancestors and paying tribute by tidying the gravesite and setting out fresh fruit as a ritual offering. Preparing and eating a large feast of Korean food—it should be a truly excessive number of dishes meant to reflect the abundant harvest. What is themost important food eaten during Chuseok? Songpyeon! They’re small rice dumplings filled with a sweet red bean or sesame seed filling and then steamed on top of pine needles. They are typically eaten on the eve of Chuseok. Howdo Chuseok celebrations differ in Canada compared to Korea? Most Korean families in Canada likely don’t have a large extended family here, nor are their ancestors buried here, so Chuseok is generally celebrated on a smaller scale. For me, I focus on the food. Preparing and eating traditional Chuseok dishes helps me feel connected to family back in Korea, even if we can’t be physically together.

Bread

V eg

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extr as

CLASSIC CORNBREAD CHESTNUT GLUTEN- FREE

White

Onions, celery

Celery leaves, sage, parsley

None

Fennel fronds, thyme

Cornbread

Onions, garlic, fennel

Italian sausage

Leeks, celery

Rosemary

Sourdough

Chestnuts, apples

Gluten-free white

Thyme, parsley

Shallots, squash

Pepitas, dried cranberries

BAKE EFFECT Baking stuffing outside the turkey allows the bird to cook quicker and more evenly. Bonus: You get some crispy bits!

PORTRAIT BY BETTY SHIN BINON

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AUTUMN 2021 FOOD & DRINK

$3 OFF PER BOTTLE SEPTEMBER 13 TH – OCTOBER 10 TH

Bold Flavours, Strong Bonds ª

INSIDE SCOOP

Orange crush SHOULD I BUY?

KITCHEN HACK

Smooth operator Leftover canned pumpkin is a common casualty of fall baking. So it doesn’t get forgotten in the back of your fridge, here are some ways to use up the silky- smooth purée.

Since hundreds of cocktails call for orange bitters, there are many brands to choose from. One stands out among the best, and it’s made in Niagara Falls, Ont. The brainchild of Andrew Gizzie, Stir Crazy orange bit- ters is well-balanced, with natural orange flavour and spicy complexity. (Since it comes with a dropper, use 10 drops for every dash.) In addition to drinks, try add- ing a few dashes to citrus cakes, salad dressings and even buttered popcorn. Stir Crazy Spirited Orange Bitters, 120 mL, $25, stir-crazy-bitters.myshopify.com

Pumpkin porridge Stir it into your morning oatmeal, and top with maple syrup, roasted pecans and cinnamon.

Your favourite cookie in beer form!

Autumn dip Whiz it with hummus in a food processor with a squeeze of lemon and pinch of allspice.

Dessert storm Local brewers are increasingly looking to the pastry shop for inspiration, creating unique beers that can double as dessert. In Gravenhurst, Ont., the iconic marsh- mallow puff cookie is the muse for Sawdust City Viva la Stout (LCBO 17397, 473 mL, $4.35). Flavours of raspberry, graham cracker and vanilla combine with the natural cocoa character of stout for a truly memorable brew. In the Ottawa area, Whitewater Brewing and BeaverTails collaborated on the sweet, malty Whitewater Killaloe Sunrise (LCBO 22257, 473 mL, $3.95). This new amber ale is accented with brown sugar and cinnamon, whichmasterfully mimic the great Canadian pastry. TRENDSPOTTING

Nice rice Fold it into risotto with plenty of Parm, and top with crushed amaretti cookies and fried sage.

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Ontario apples are the best in the world! Here are four great ways to enjoy the pick of the crop. 4 things What to do with all those apples

Sweet or savoury Sliced very thinly and slow-baked, these delicate apple chips are an irresist- ible—and healthy— snack. Whether you choose the sweetly spiced or savoury thyme-and-pepper version, they’re superb with nippy Ontario cheddar and a glass of local cider.

Crisp ice cream! A hint of cinnamon enhances the flavour of ripe, juicy apples in a bake-ahead crisp that then gets stirred into luscious homemade vanilla ice cream. A super-easy dessert that’s both homey and decadent.

The show- stopper This scrumptious

apple tarte tatin hides a savoury secret—turkey sausage and fresh sage leaves that transform it from a dessert into a main course. Make it the centrepiece for a brunch or lunchtime

Whisky apples Infusing whisky with apple and star anise pays double dividends—a fabulous and versatile liqueur that’s perfect for cocktails, and spirited fruit you can use in all sorts of sophisticated ways.

spread paired with an off-dry Riesling. Unforgettable!

Find these recipes at lcbo.com/fdautumn21

PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROB FIOCCA

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SEASONAL

SMOKED TROUT SALAD

Recipe on page 182

Market share

Tap into the abundance of the season and celebrate the goodness of farm-fresh ingredients with this unique Thanksgiving menu paired with local drinks.

Make shopping for Thanksgiving dinner this year as pleasurable as the feast. Armed with a list for our easy-to-make market-inspired meal, head to your local market and enjoy an open-air outing. With over 200 farmers’ markets in Ontario, there are lots to choose from. Besides the fun of the trip, you can be assured you are getting the freshest greens, the juiciest just-picked apples and pears, and even peak-of-season squash. Instead of a big bird, opt for our Turkey Tagine, bursting with autumn vegetables, which is much easier to pull off. We have a lot to be thankful for!

By Monda Rosenberg with Renée S. Suen & Victoria Walsh Photography by james tse

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FOOD & DRINK AUTUMN 2021

MARKET SHARE

ROASTED SQUASH & PARSNIP SOUP with STILTON TOASTS

A bowl of this glorious autumn-hued soup is an impressive way to kick off any fall dinner. Parsnips are the secret ingre- dient in the best chicken soups, and they play a similar role here, lending nuanced flavour. 1 large butternut squash, 3 parsnips, about 10 oz (285 g) total 4 cups (1 L) chicken broth (approx.), divided 1/2 tsp (2 mL) dried leaf thyme, crumbled 1/2 tsp (2 mL) salt Stilton Toasts (recipe on p. 182) 1 Preheat oven to 375°F (191°C). 2 Slice squash in quarters lengthwise. Place on a baking sheet. Scrape out and discard pulp and seeds. Rub cut surfaces with oil. Trim and peel parsnips. Slice in half lengthwise. Rub with oil. Tightly wrap in foil. Set beside squash. Roast for 1 hour. 3 Slice any dark brown areas from parsnips and discard. Place parsnips and 1/2 cup (125 mL) broth in food processor. Whirl until coarsely puréed. Remove skin and any dark areas from squash. Add squash, thyme, salt and another 1/2 cup (125 mL) broth to food processor. Pulse, then whirl until as smooth as you like. Whirl in as much remaining broth as con- tainer will hold. 4 Turn into a saucepan and stir in any remaining broth. If soup is thicker than you like, thin with more broth or water. Taste and add salt, if needed. Heat and serve with Stilton Toasts, either floating them on the soup or serving them on the side. Soup can be refrigerated for 3 days or frozen. about 2 1/2 lbs (1.13 kg) 1 tbsp (15 mL) olive oil

Makes about 8 cups (2 L)

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MARKET SHARE

See TIPS on p. 182

TURKEY MARKET TAGINE

My most lasting memory of the tagines I had in Morocco is their luxurious saffron-flavoured broth. In this tagine, the saffron-­ spiked broth is a backdrop for peak-season market-fresh produce. The addition of turkey makes it a welcome departure from expected Thanksgiving fare. It’s best served over rice or couscous for soaking up all the precious broth. 3 small red onions 4 large carrots, peeled 1 large fennel bulb, about 1 lb (455 g) 2 lbs (905 g) skinless boneless turkey breast Olive oil 2 tsp (10 mL) each cumin and sweet or smoked paprika, divided 1 1/2 tsp (7 mL) salt, divided 1 cup (250 mL) chicken broth 1 tsp (5 mL) each ground coriander and cinnamon 1/2 tsp (2 mL) saffron threads

vegetables while stirring. Cover, and when vegetables come to a boil, reduce heat and simmer for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. 5 Meanwhile, as soon as vege- tables are simmering, sprinkle saffron into 1 cup (250 mL) hot, but not boiling, water and set aside to add to tagine later. 6 After vegetables have been simmering for 30 minutes, stir in turkey and collected juices. Cover and continue simmering, stirring occasionally, until turkey is done, about 30 minutes. 7 Meanwhile, core pears and cut into chunks. When turkey is done, stir pears and olives into tagine. Pour in saffron water. Cover and simmer until pears are warm, about 5 minutes. Spoon over rice in individual bowls. Generously sprinkle with freshly chopped mint.

2 ripe pears, peeled 1 cup (250 mL) olives, such as Kalamata Cooked rice or couscous Freshly chopped mint or cilantro 1 Peel onions and trim root ends. Slice each onion through stem end into 6 wedges. Set aside. Slice carrots lengthwise in half or quarters, depending on their size, then into 1-inch (2.5-cm) pieces. They should measure about 1 1/2 cups (375 mL). Turn into a big bowl. Trim fronds and thick stem end from fennel. Remove any tough outer layers. Slice fennel in half through stem end, then into 1/2-inch (1-cm) wedges. Cut wedges in half crosswise and separate layers. They should measure about 4 cups (1 L). Add to carrots. 2 Slice turkey into pieces, each about half the size of a chicken thigh. If any pieces are more than 1 inch (2.5 cm) thick, slice in half or slash into the thick areas

and open up like a book. Brush pieces all over with oil and set on a plate. In a small bowl, stir 1 tsp (5 mL) each cumin and paprika with 1/2 tsp (2 mL) salt. Sprinkle half over turkey. Brush to evenly distribute. Then turn turkey over and sprinkle with remaining mixture. Brush again. 3 Coat a large wide saucepan with oil. Set over medium heat. Fry turkey in batches, about 3 minutes a side, to lightly brown. Remove to a container, cover and refrigerate until vegetables have simmered 30 minutes. 4 Coat pan with more oil, if needed. Add onions and stir often over medium-low heat for 3 minutes. Pour in chicken broth. Scrape brown bits from bottom of pan. Increase heat to medium. Add carrots and fennel. In a small bowl, stir together remaining 1 tsp (5 mL) each cumin and paprika with coriander, cinnamon and remaining salt. Sprinkle over

Serves 6

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