LCBO Food & Drink Autumn 2023

AUTUMN 2023

COMPLIMENTS OF

Wine critics call it one of the world’s most astonishing wine regions... We ca it h e.

Please enjoy responsibly.

The leading edge of the world’s cool climate wine scene is right here, in our own backyard.

For almost 50 years, we’ve been learning and growing with our land, unlocking its secrets to craft world class wines.

And the world is taking notice. Ontario VQA wines are winning prestigious awards and earning international acclaim.

It all starts right here, using only 100% Ontario-grown grapes to make wines that are unforgettable. Unmistakable.

So raise a glass to discover for yourself what makes Ontario’s VQA wines so special.

winecountryontario.ca

AUTUMN 2023

TABLE OF CONTENTS

REIMAGINING THE PAST

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39 BLASTS FROM THE PAST Remembering dishes, drinks, trends, tools and techniques from days gone by. BY ERIC VELLEND 47 PLAYING FAVOURITES Classic cocktail recipes curated from our archives, tweaked to reflect today’s tastes. BY JAMES CHATTO

57 RECIPE REMIX Reviving and reinventing recipes from our archives gives them contemporary appeal. BY MIRANDA KEYES 64 LEADERS OF THE PACK Paying homage to favourite products from the past that changed the way we drink today. BY DICK SNYDER

72 TASTE OF THE ’90S A nostalgic menu—

AUTUMN 2023

inspired by the decade we were born—conjures up memories and moments from the 1990s. BY ERIC VELLEND

COMPLIMENTS OF

ON THE COVER Ontario Spritz cocktail, page 164

Photography by Darren Kemper

TOP TWO IMAGES: JAMES TSE

FOOD & DRINK AUTUMN 2023 5

TABLE OF CONTENTS

CELEBRATE THE PRESENT

1 25 FUTURE INTERESTS A LOOK TO THE FUTURE Educated guesswork: what we’ll be eating and drinking in years to come. BY CHARLENE ROOKE 1 33 NEXT-GEN COCKTAILS Tomorrow’s cocktails will require a mastery of new techniques: here’s what you need to know. BY CHRISTINE SISMONDO 1 48 FORWARD THINKING Global experts predict the influences that will shape the way we drink. BY MICHELE SPONAGLE AND DOUG WALLACE 1 54 MOOD FOOD Inspired by your emotions: match tonight’s dinner to the way you’re feeling. BY VICTORIA WALSH

1 41 COMING ATTRACTIONS Food trends and the next hot ingredients—a taste of what lies ahead. BY MARCELLA DILONARDO, JESSE VALLINS,

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LINDSAY GUSCOTT & CHRISTINE TIZZARD

IN EVERY ISSUE 12 Editor’s Notes 19 A Few of our Favourite Things

R eaders, contributors and staff share what they’ve loved from the past 30 years. BY VICTORIA WALSH

83 OUR ONTARIO

1 06 ALL TOGETHER NOW

Shining the spotlight on today’s all-local food and drink headliners. BY JESSICA HURAS 91 THE NEW CLASSICS From culinary fads to menu staples: four modern favourites with staying power. BY CHRISTOPHER ST. ONGE 99 SIPS TO SAVOUR Savoury flavours are the latest fashion in the world of contemporary cocktails. BY CHARLENE ROOKE

Classic fall flavours shine in a relaxed and modern harvest inspired menu. BY MICHELLE LUCAS LARVING 1 12 IN GOOD COMPANY Introducing the movers and shakers who provide inspiration for Ontario’s beverage and hospitality industry. BY CHARLENE ROOKE

183 Recipe Index 184 Repeat Performance

R eimagining the cover recipe from Food & Drink ’s first issue for the modern era. BY LUCY WAVERMAN

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TOP LEFT IMAGE: DARREN KEMPER; BOTTOM IMAGES: MAYA VISNYEI

6 FOOD & DRINK AUTUMN 2023

Celebrate Your hady Roots

Save $ 2

Limited Quantity

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The Padré Cabernet-Merlot

The Bootlegger Baco Noir

The Soldier's Wife Sauvignon Blanc

The Boxer’s Ghost Pinot Noir

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Please enjoy responsibly.

Visit familytreewine.com for your chance to win!

AUTUMN 2023 Chief Marketing and Digital Officer, LCBO Vanda Provato

PULL YOUR PUNCHES Gorgeous new pitcher drinks to toast the holidays

EDITORIAL Editor Jody Dunn Drinks Editor Charlene Rooke Food Editor Eric Vellend Content Editors Jessica Huras, Victoria Walsh

Publication Coordinator Leslie Bolter Publication Assistant Piper MacFadyen

ART Creative Director Cathy Cicchini Contributing Art Director David Taylor Senior Designer Emilie Simpson

Graphic Designer Julia Greco Graphic Production Pat Turbach

CONTRIBUTORS James Chatto, Marcella DiLonardo, Catherine Doherty, Michael Elliott, David Grenier, Lindsay Guscott, Katie Hayden, Darren Kemper, Miranda Keyes, Michelle Lucas Larving, Catherine MacFadyen, Andrea McCrindle, Shelly Shnier, Christine Sismondo, Dick Snyder, Michele Sponagle, Christopher St. Onge, Christine Tizzard, James Tse, Jesse Vallins, Maya Visnyei, Doug Wallace, Lucy Waverman PRODUCTION Production Coordinator Judy Haverkort Production Assistant Everton Smith Image Editing & Prepress Levon Gosdanian, Enhanced Pixels

SALES Publisher Wayne Leek

COMING NEXT

Kirby Miller, Beaches Media Services kirby@beachesmediaservices.com

Many of the products featured in this issue are available to purchase online at LCBO.com.

AVAILABLE NOVEMBER 8

ISSUE

For general inquiries about Food & Drink magazine or information about LCBO products and policy, please visit lcbocustomercare.com, or call toll-free 1.800.668.5226 or 416.365.5900. TTY Only: 416.864.6898 or 1.800.361.3291. All advertiser applications are subject to the terms and conditions of the LCBO’s advertising agreement. Food & Drink is published five times a year by the Liquor Control Board of Ontario. Volume 31, Number 1. Food & Drink is printed on paper that contains 10 per cent post‑consumer fibre. Food & Drink is recyclable in communities participating in magazine recycling programs. Publication Mail Agreement No. 40064521 Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Food & Drink , 100 Queens Quay East, 9th Floor, Toronto, ON, M5E 0C7 ISSN 1195-5988

Not all of the wines, spirits and beers mentioned in Food & Drink will be available at all LCBO stores. Prices are subject to change without notice. Cette publication est également disponible en français.

CHESTNUTS GALORE Sweet and savoury recipes featuring a festive classic

WINTER REVELRY A delectable menu for a seasonal lunch—outdoors!

8 FOOD & DRINK AUTUMN 2023

LCBO NOTES

From our President & CEO

One thing that won’t be changing is our celebration of local products, which is a priority every day, but kicks into high gear every autumn. We are delighted to showcase Ontario’s outstanding wines, beers, ciders, and spirits in-store, online and, of course, in the pages of Food & Drink . The magazine does a great job of high lighting local places and producers, and I’ve visited quite a few shops and restaurants in my travels after reading about them here. Like many readers, I’ve also tried many recipes and pairing suggestions over the years and always look forward to finding new ideas for entertaining, décor and gifting in each issue. Not to mention all those innovative cocktail recipes…. I love that Food & Drink inspires me to try new flavour combinations and includes cocktails that can make anyone feel like a confident mixologist. As for wines, I’m often asked what I serve when entertaining, but, given my role, that’s a difficult question to answer! I appreciate sampling wines from around the world, as well as those produced right here in Ontario. When it comes to entertaining, no celebration is complete without bubbly, so I keep a variety of Champagnes and sparkling wines on hand for toasting occasions. This fall, the toast is Happy Anniversary to Food & Drink —here’s to the next 30 years!

Dear Friends,

Big anniversaries have a way of making us pause and take stock of the past. They also inspire us to think about the future. Recently, LCBO celebrated our 95th anniversary, and now Food & Drink marks 30 years. I feel so fortunate to recognize these milestones and share them with you, our valued readers. While we can never know what the future holds, I believe LCBO is on a very promising path. We made a conscious decision to improve the way we do business when we designed our Spirit of Sustainability platform. It’s our commitment to help support Ontario’s social and environmental needs and foster a more equitable and diverse community in all sorts of meaningful ways. Together with our Good Partners from the beverage alcohol industry, we have embarked on a mission that will make a positive impact across Ontario for years to come. With LCBO.com, we continue to enhance our online shopping experience to meet evolving customer preferences. We currently welcome nearly 1 million visitors every week to our site, where they can shop for over 12,000 products and choose from three convenient options, including home delivery, free delivery to store and our popular free Same-Day Pickup, which is available in half of our stores provincewide.

GEORGE SOLEAS President & CEO, LCBO

“Meals and gatherings with family and friends are a tenet of my Greek culture, and this magazine is a wonderful source of inspiration. My wife is the baker of the family (she makes beautiful pastries and cookies), but I am known for my grilled lamb. Other favourite recipes from Food & Drink include Prime Rib with Mustard & Rosemary Crust, Thai Mussels and Peanut Butter & Banana French Toast.” Find more of George’s favourite Food & Drink recipes in our online roundup at LCBO.com/fdautumn23. COOKING WITH FOOD & DRINK

PORTRAIT BY CARLYLE ROUTH

10 FOOD & DRINK AUTUMN 2023

MAKE IT SPECIAL

Give the gift of Ontario VQA wine wrapped in our new fall gift bag. For more gift ideas, visit LCBO.com/giftshop

Available at LCBO.com and select stores while quantities last.

38846

EDITOR’S NOTES

Cheers to 30 years!

Jurassic Park dominated the box office, “I Will Always Love You” topped the charts, The X-Files premiered on TV, and the first Beanie Babies went on sale… The year was 1993—also the year that Food & Drink made its debut! For this milestone 30th anniversary issue, we’ve struc tured our content a little differently than usual, celebrating past, present and future. Earlier in the year, we asked our internal team, our contributors and our readers to share their most cherished recipes, products and memories from the magazine: you’ll find them scattered throughout the issue but primarily in “A Few of Our Favourite Things,” starting on page 19. We’ve also mined some treasures from our archives and then brought them up to date in our “Reimagining the Past” section (page 36). Look for classic recipes and modern twists on timeless cocktails, a collection of iconic products from the last 30 years that changed the way we drink, plus a fun ’90s nostalgia menu that updates popular dishes from the decade in which we were born. In “Celebrate the Present” (page 80) we move from the past to the here and now, looking at the best this province has to offer at this bountiful time of year, and exploring some current trends. We create a harvest feast with all the traditional flavours of Thanksgiving but presented in a more casual way that’s perfect for relaxed entertaining. We have also declared the “new classics,” dishes that have gone from fads to mainstays, with the ultimate recipe for each.

beer and spirits industry and how those may impact what is in our glasses. Wrapping up this section is a fun take on “Mood Food” recipes that satisfy cravings within a less structured approach to mealtimes—something we think is starting to catch on with the next generation of readers. It has been a pleasure serving as editor of this magazine since 2001 and I want to give a heartfelt thank you to the team that helps execute every issue—many of whom have worked with us for decades! Without a doubt, the most gratifying part of my job is hearing from you, our dear readers—thank you for your dedication and for sharing your feedback both negative and positive, we learn so much from both! I sincerely hope you enjoy this issue and continue to do so for future issues as well.

On the drinks side, we explore the latest trend for savoury cocktails, and we pay homage to Ontario producers who are making a difference in the areas of charity, sustainability and diversity. Finally, we take “A Look to the Future” (page 122), forecasting how the world of food and drink will evolve over the next 30 years. We pick the ingredients and techniques most likely to transform our foodways and cocktail culture. Then we ask global drink experts to discuss what factors will have the biggest influence on the wine,

PLAYING FAVOURITES It’s hard to choose after so many years, but you’ll find my Top 5 no-fail rec ipes that I keep coming back to again and again at LCBO.com/ fdautumn23.

JODY DUNN Editor, LCBO Food & Drink

@lcbofoodanddrink

lcbofoodanddrink

LCBO

PHOTOGRAPH BY JAMES TSE

12 FOOD & DRINK AUTUMN 2023

Advertising Feature

Holiday and Every Day

With the harvest and holiday seasons upon us, add a touch of Blu to your table. Direct from Italy, Blu Giovello and its companion brands offer a variety of high-character wines for gatherings with family and friends. Here are five rousing reasons to celebrate with us!

All Occasions Deserve Bubbles 1 When you stock up on Blu Giovello Prosecco, you’re not only ready for upcoming festive gatherings, but those everyday celebrations that pop up “out of the Blu.” This D.O.C. - designated Prosecco offers tremendous value for its exceptional taste, extra dry finish, and fine, elegant bubbles. Mandi!

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Cheers to a Female- Owned Winery

Piera Martellozzo is a winemaking force to be reckoned with, both in Italy and abroad. Her vision and tenacity run in the family. Piera’s grandfather, Giovanni Martellozzo, founded the winery in 1899 in Camposampiero, near Padua in Italy’s northeastern region. Now, three generations later, she has grown the group to include three brands— Blu Giovello, Piera 1899, and Martellozzo— with a singular goal: to honour her family’s legacy by producing the highest quality wine possible.

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Our Merlot Tells a Story

Group Martellozzo’s Terre Magre wines come from Italy’s Friuli Grave area, grown on the dried-out floodplains of mountain streams. Though the land can be challenging, its gravelly sand produces a mineral-rich wine that highlights the terroir in a unique way. Terre Magre Merlot from Piera 1899 has sweet, delicate tannins and low acidity, and pairs well with white or dark meats—ideal for a variety of holiday meals.

“We are privileged to be able to devote ourselves body and soul to creating sparkling and stylish wines that are a pleasure for the tastebuds, the hands, and the eyes.”

– Piera Martellozzo, Wine Creator

@piera1899

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La Dolce Vita is Just A Sip Away

Did you know the “Blu” of Blu Giovello represents the colour of the cloudless Italian sky and the waters of the Mediterranean Sea? When you sip a glass of still or sparkling Blu Giovello wine, you’re whisked away to a relaxing and pleasure-filled way of Italian life known as “la dolce vita.”

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Pinot Grigio is Perfect for Fall

With a golden hue the colour of harvest hay bales, Blu Giovello Pinot Grigio has a complex and mellow structure, and distinct notes of orange blossom, apple, and pear. On the palate, it’s dry and full, with pleasantly bitter notes of mugwort, making it a lively pairing for fall cheese plates or, better still, Thanksgiving turkey dinner with all the fixings.

blugiovello.com

@blugiovello

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With its unique combination of bold flavour and velvety mouthfeel, aromas of ripe pear, maple syrup, and spices giving way to orchard fruit and vanilla on the palate, Crown Royal 30-Year-Old is our longest-aged blend to date.

PLEASE ENJOY RESPONSIBLY.

A FEW OF OUR FAVOURITE THINGS Table Service When it comes to entertaining in style, we’re always looking to up our game. According to our contributors

LESSONS WE’VE LEARNED

and readers, you’ve been inspired by our many table settings over the years, too!

BY VICTORIA WALSH

Come join our roster of hard-working staff and alums as we flip back through the pages of our Food & Drink archives. Hear fond and fun memories, check out some of our readers’ favourites over the years, jog your memory with some throwback tips, tricks and recommendations, and of course find some stand-out recipes, plus stellar drinks to match. You’ll find all the recipes featured on these pages at LCBO.com/fdautumn23.

FOOD & DRINK AUTUMN 2023 19

A FEW OF OUR FAVOURITE THINGS

We’ve always been big cheerleaders of local Ontario products and, over the years, cheese, charcuterie and even butter boards have exploded in popularity. We still fully endorse pulling out any of these gourmet goods (featured in past issues) next time you want to serve an array of exceptional foods—on a board, of course. Check out our ultimate Canadian charcuterie-meets-cheeseboard: CHARCUTERIE & CHEESEBOARD GEMS

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1. Pickled vegetables from Manning Canning, manningcanning.com; plate from Cylinder Studio, cylinderceramics.com 2. Smoked trout from Kolapore Springs, kolaporesprings.com; plate from Mima Ceramics, mimaceramics.com 3. Crackers from Evelyn’s Crackers, instagram.com/ evelyns.crackers 4. Pepper jelly from Stasis Preserves, stasispreserves.com 5. The Lankaaster from Glengarry Fine Cheese, glengarryfinecheese.com 6. 5 Brothers from Gunn’s Hill Artisan Cheese, gunnshillcheese.ca 7. Assorted cheeses from Monforte Dairy, monforteonline.ca 8. Black Truffle Gouda from Mountainoak Cheese, mountainoakcheese.ca 9. Cape Vessey from Fifth Town Artisan Cheese, fifthtown.ca 10. Cured meats from Seed to Sausage, seedtosausage.ca 11. Pâté en croûte from Sanagan’s Meat Locker, sanagansmeatlocker.com 12. Pingue Prosciutto from Niagara Food Specialties, niagarafoodspecialties.com 13. Cheeseboard from Rustic Designs by Rich, rusticdesignsbyrich.com 14. Smoked honey from Rosewood Winery, rosewoodwine.com 15. Heirloom produce from Vicki’s Veggies, vickisveggies.ca 16. Tinned fish from Scout, enjoyscout.ca 17. Pickles and compote from Forbes Wild Foods, wildfoods.ca; bowl from Casa Studio, etsy.com/shop/CasaStudioCA 18. & 19. Flavoured nuts from Jewels Under the Kilt, jewelsunderthekilt.com; bowls from (18) Mima Ceramics, mimaceramics.com; and (19) Casa Studio, etsy.com/shop/ CasaStudioCA 20. Crackers and baguette from Blackbird Baking Co., blackbirdbakingco.com

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FEAST- WORTHY WINES

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These regularly recommended local wines deserve a spot on your fall table.

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V ineland Estates Semi Dry Riesling VQA L CBO 232033, $15.95 Whether you’re matching a strong cheese or a poul try dish, this wine will make a great match.

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Cave Spring Dry Rosé VQA LCBO 295006, $16.95 Pair this local classic with a starter course or almost any dish on your cele bratory table.

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M alivoire Farmstead Gamay VQA VINTAGES

ESSENTIALS 591313, $21.95 R each for this bottle as a host gift or house wine for your next autumn get-together.

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PHOTO BY DARREN KEMPER

FOOD & DRINK AUTUMN 2023 21

A FEW OF OUR FAVOURITE THINGS

YOUR MOST Treasured ISSUE

When we asked about the issue that you turn to and look forward to the most, the answer was resoundingly “HOLIDAY.” Remember these? Which one was your favourite?

PHOTO BY DARREN KEMPER

Our Favourite Covers

1. Early Summer 2001 Editor Jody Dunn says, “This isn’t our first cupcake cover star, but it’s definitely one that stands out in my mind as the most scrumptious looking. Maybe it’s that extra drip of icing on the side, but I just want to reach in and take a bite.” 2. Autumn 2007 Publication Coordinator Leslie Bolter shares, “Our Autumn covers are always beautiful, filled with the rich harvest colours that make this time of year a favourite, but this gorgeous cover is near and dear to my heart because it’s the first issue that was released after I joined the team.” 3. Early Summer 2016 Publication Assistant Piper MacFadyen says, “This cover conjures those first long nights of the season in the backyard with the fam, and the colourful lobster sand wich screams easy-breezy summer supper. Plus, potato chips on the side? Yes please!”

4. Summer 2003 Publisher Wayne Leek declares, “I’m going way back to 2003’s Summer cover. The luscious scoop of ice cream and brilliant red strawberry in that icy silver bowl brings me right into the fresh fla vours of the season. I love how the image captures an iconic summer dessert moment.” Cicchini’s choice: “As a designer, this is visually my favourite cover. Our photographer had been given the green light to try some thing completely new with a really tight close-up that gets right into this fizzy drink. Using stop-motion, we were able to capture the lively carbonation of the cocktail and really bring summer sipping alive for our readers.” 5. Summer 2019 Creative Director Cathy

The magazine’s staff share the ones that won their hearts.

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The $17 solution. Great-value wines.

An easy-to-enjoy mid-week Cabernet showing big cassis and blackberry tones, with excellent balance and structure. Perfect for either grilled burgers or steak. CHATEAU ST. JEAN CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2020 California 38034 (XD) 750 mL $17.00 2 Full-bodied & Smooth Juicy black fruit, cassis, plum, cedar, and oak spice make for a charming, soft, round Merlot perfect for mushroom burgers. CHÂTEAU LES TOURELLES 2019 AC Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux, France (Jean Darriet, prop.-vitic.) 426247 (XD) 750 mL $17.00 2 Medium-bodied & Fruity 90 points (Roger Voss, Wine Enthusiast )

Featured products may not be available in all Vintages locations. Visit LCBO.com/vintages for availability and store locations. Prices subject to change. $17 SOLUTION. AVAILABLE ONLINE AND IN STORES SEPTEMBER 9, 2023.

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A FEW OF OUR FAVOURITE THINGS

OUR MOST POPULAR STORY AND RECIPE EVER!

“I tested seven different carrot cake recipes and made what felt like hundreds of ‘still tweaking the recipe’ cakes that my neighbours happily sampled. Now, anytime a cake gets featured in an issue or pops up on Instagram, I get an email from a neighbour saying how much they loved the cakes. I guess I’ll have to get out that carrot peeler….”

In terms of our readers’ favourite story and recipe, Spring 2011’s “Carrots Take the Cake” and its Hawaiian Carrot Cake with Coconut Icing is the one we get asked about the most. This is what its recipe developer, Monda Rosenberg, had to say about her much‑adored cakes:

PROMINENT PLACES

Between readers and contributors, here are some places we’ve featured that everyone loves. If you haven’t checked these out, you should make a point of it! Trust us, we’ve been doing this for 30 years and we know when our readers are right!

Don’t miss out on visiting a distillery during your next Niagara wine tour. Dillon’s Small Batch Distillers in Beamsville is a must-visit for its masterfully crafted small-batch spirits. Butter tart aficionados should make a point to swing by 13th Street Winery. The Niagara winery boasts a wow‑worthy spin on the classic confection.

Recipe developer Irene Matys and her family are always on the hunt for the best big scoop, which may be why they bookmarked the Summer 2020 feature Nine Stand-Out Ice Cream Shops by content editor Victoria Walsh. “We made it to seven of the nine shops,” says Matys. “Wong’s Ice Cream in Toronto and Slickers Ice Cream in Picton were our faves.”

The Distillery District’s annual Winter Village is a seasonal delight. Lit up brightly for the yuletide, the festive market features the very best in artisanal foodstuffs. It’s the perfect pit stop for snapping up unique gifts or for stocking your holiday pantry.

DISTILLERY DISTRICT: PATRICK TOMASSO; BUTTER TARTS: NATASCHIA WIELINK; ICE CREAM: FAREEN KARIM

24 FOOD & DRINK AUTUMN 2023

UNCORK EXTRAORDINARY

VALDOBBIADENE

PROSECCO SUPERIORE DOCG

available at the LCBO

Connect with us

santamargheritawines Santa Margherita Wines

www.santamargherita.com

CAMPAIGN FINANCED ACCORDING TO EU REG. 1308/2013

Please enjoy responsibly

A FEW OF OUR FAVOURITE THINGS

Our readers share the special, unusual and eye-opening products they discovered within our pages—the ones they return to time and time again. A DOZEN EXCEPTIONAL DISCOVERIES

26 FOOD & DRINK AUTUMN 2023

1. Lambrusco, such as Chiarli Castelvetro Lambrusco LCBO 604, $14.45 This effervescent red wine is perfect for celebrations. 2. Crown Royal Northern Harvest Rye LCBO 434092, $39.45 Try this award-winning and show-stealing Canadian whisky. 3. Empress 1908 Gin 557470, $53.80 Add to gin-based recipes or for a delicious, beauti fully hued cocktail. 4. Gooderham & Worts Canadian Whisky LCBO 428417, $40.95 A homegrown classic.

5. Chenin Blanc, such as Bougrier Vouvray Chenin Blanc LCBO 253229, $19.15 Here’s a fresh and zesty vari etal that’s sure to please. 6. Chianti Classico, such as Rocca delle Macìe Chianti Classico VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 741769, $19.95 Look for the black rooster, which signifies Chianti. 7. Cabot Trail Maple Cream LCBO 462424, $34.95 Coffee time just got kicked up a notch. 8. Bellwoods Jelly King Sour LCBO 14280, 500 mL, $6.50 This one continues to reign supreme when it comes to sour beers.

9. Limoncello, such as Rossi d’Asiago Limoncello LCBO 469643, $26.70 It doubles as a pre- or post-dinner sipper. 10. Tio Pepe Extra Dry Fino LCBO 231829, $19.95 This bone-dry sherry is so refined—truly iconic! 11. Canned Gin Cocktails, like Georgian Bay Gin Smash LCBO 447540, 473 mL, $3.15 Refreshing cocktails made easy. 12. Amaro, such as Amaro Montenegro Italian Liqueur LCBO 601484, $34.10 Sip on a sophisticated herbal liqueur.

Most Featured Bottles Over the Years

Reach for these frequently nominated celebratory sparklers—great for any occasion.

Martini Asti LCBO 253948, $16.40

Val d’Oca Prosecco Valdobbiane

Superiore DOCG LCBO 340570, $18.95

Segura Viudas LCBO 216960, $18

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Want to know the best bottle for when you’re capturing something bubbly for your social feed? Former Creative Director Karen Lim always requested Segura Viudas for its fizzy staying power. Content editor Victoria Walsh swears by it for recipe-testing, too, claiming that almost a week after a recent round of a testing she poured out the remains of a bottle to discover it was still super bubbly.

PHOTO BY DARREN KEMPER

A FEW OF OUR FAVOURITE THINGS

MOST BELOVED COCKTAILS

Whether they were hearted on social or searched on our site, these notable sippers are standouts. No surprises here, since few can deny the appeal of an Aperol Spritz, Paper Plane or Negroni (for which we have spritzed and sorbet-style twists). But the reigning champ is the Manhattan—of which we have 29 recipe variations, including a riff on the classic, the “Perfect Manhattan” (see page 48), truffles and even Jell-O-style confections!

LESSONS WE’VE LEARNED

Cocktail Tricks “Kelsey Ramage taught me how to turn citrus husks into syrup while I was working on a story about zero-waste cocktails for the Spring 2020 issue,” says writer Christine Sismondo.

CONTRIBUTOR GO-TO’S: Contributors and readers share the special products they discovered within our pages over the years and those they return to time and again.

Cynar VINTAGES 380832, $28.55 Prop stylist Shelly Shnier raves about this bitter-sweet Italian aperitif.

St-Germain Elderflower Liqueur LCBO 180695, $49.95 Over the years, this deli cately floral liqueur has been frequently featured in our recipes and stories by various contributors. It’s sweetness allows it to be easily swapped into classic cocktails in place of simple syrup.

Gautier VS Cognac LCBO 384867, $60.20

Five Farms Single Batch Irish Cream Liqueur LCBO 12197, $40.10 “It’s SO GOOD!” says recipe developer Marcella DiLonardo.

Recipe developer and writer Tonia

Wilson loves Cognac and

this one dazzles without breaking her budget.

28 FOOD & DRINK AUTUMN 2023

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A FEW OF OUR FAVOURITE THINGS

YOUR FAVOURITE RECIPES We’ve rounded up just some of the recipes that you searched, hearted and shared that you love the most—all broken down by course so that, like a playlist, you can put together your ultimate menu made up of all the bangers!

EDITOR JODY DUNN’S FAVOURITE SOUP

Starters

Roasted Cauliflower with Crispy Chickpeas, Spiced Tomato Sauce & Feta

Greek Shrimp & Orzo Salad

Cheddar & Bacon Soup with Crushed Pretzels

Harvest Nachos

Sweet Potato and Pear Soup

mains

Honey-Roasted Cherry Tomatoes on Whipped Feta

French Onion Soup

Nectarine and Tomato Salad with Fried Halloumi and Basil

Pear Hazelnut Gnocchi with Greens

Cashew Chicken Curry

Spaghetti Cacio e Pepe

Ale-Braised Short Ribs

Cheddar-Stuffed Mushrooms with Wild Rice Crunch

Pumpkin “Ravioli” Tossed with Bacon & Parsley

Beef Bourguignon

Mushroom Risotto

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LESSONS WE’VE LEARNED

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Seafood You told us that you’ve learned lots about seafood, including how to cure salmon, shuck oysters and “cook” shrimp in lime juice for ceviche.

B

Cathy Cicchini shared, “For a seafood story in the Early Summer 2015 issue, we wanted to make a splash. It wasn’t enough to show case the delicious recipes; this was my first Food & Drink shoot as art director, and I had this vision of a Canadian rustic river, with lots of cool blue. Prop stylist Lara McGraw had the clever idea to shoot it in a small inflatable pool and add all the outdoors elements to it—stones, water, wood, etc. Ah, the magic of magazines!”

30 FOOD & DRINK AUTUMN 2023

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A FEW OF OUR FAVOURITE THINGS

ENDING ON A SWEET NOTE

From classic pie to sky-high layer cake— even freshly baked donuts—sweets may be the course we can hang our hat on. From over a thousand cakes and baked goods in our online archives, we’ve curated some of our most admired recipes to create the ultimate sweets table.

LESSONS WE’VE LEARNED

Next-Level Recipe Techniques

We were delighted to have a reader tell us that they learned all about how to make meringues with us.

Blackberry Glazed Sunshine Chiffon Cake

Salted Caramel Pudding

Our in-house home baker Piper MacFadyen swears by this Apple Pie with Cheddar Crumble Topping from Autumn 2016, saying, “I make it almost every Thanksgiving!”

Sticky Toffee Pudding

Find these recipes at LCBO.com/fdautumn23

32 FOOD & DRINK AUTUMN 2023

OUT OF THE ORDINARY

These often-highlighted wines with a touch of sweetness make excellent sidekicks for desserts. Port is also a fantastic choice when it comes to that final course.

12-Layer Malted Milk Mousse Cake

Cave Spring Select Late Harvest Riesling VQA VINTAGES 415901, 375 mL, $24.95

Strawberry & Pineapple Curd Bombolini

Pierre Sparr Gewurztraminer VINTAGES 373373, $20.95

Golden Citrus Fruitcake

Henry of Pelham Riesling Icewine VQA VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 430561, 375 mL, $49.95

Cardamom-Pistachio Sugar Cookies

Pecan Pie Bars

Taylor Fladgate Late Bottled Vintage Port LCBO 46946, $21.30

PHOTO BY DARREN KEMPER

ADVERTISING FEATURE

South Africa’s wine country is the most biodiverse—and many would say the most beautiful—on the planet. The people who live and work here know it’s a treasure worth protecting. Sustainable Sips

South Africa has an extraordinary record when it comes to environmental and social sustainability. Over 95 per cent of the wine industry here participates in Integrated Production of Wine (IPW), an initiative that sets standards for farmers and winemakers. It regularly audits everything from biodiversity conservation to waste water management to worker safety, and places a seal on every certified bottle as a guarantee. Customers can use the seal to trace any wine all the way back to the vineyard where the grapes were grown. For many wine producers, that’s only the beginning. In the last decade, companies across the country have developed a range of forward-thinking initiatives. Some foster environmental stewardship or ethical trade practices; others focus on social sustainability, education and Black economic empowerment. Mullineux & Leeu Family Wines, from the Swartland region, for example, created Great Heart as a staff empowerment project. The brand is owned by the people who produce the wines, from the vineyard to the winery to the warehouse, and they all benefit directly from sales. The certified organic wines from the Boekenhoutskloof winery (producers of LCBO favourites The Wolftrap, The Chocolate Block and Porcupine Ridge wines) tick every available eco-friendly box. The winery is also a founding member of the Franschhoek Conservancy, which ensures the sustainability of biodiversity and community enrichment within the Franschhoek Valley. Boschendal, also from Franschhoek, is one of 55 WWF Conservation Champions, an award earned by South African wine farms that show exceptional environmental commitment and leadership. Here in Ontario, we love South African wines for their quality and exceptional value. Now there’s even more about them to celebrate.

BOSCHENDAL WINE ESTATE

Check out these great South African wines— new to the LCBO and always available.

Essay Chenin Blanc Viognier Roussanne LCBO 414144, $15.95

Viognier from the Agter-Paarl region and Roussanne from the cooler hills of Stellenbosch add richness and complexity to the Chenin Blanc that makes up 58 per cent of this blend. The wine has a supple and creamy texture and is packed with lush tropical fruit and melon flavours—versatile, to be sure, but particularly great with Southeast Asian dishes. Each bottle proudly sports Essay’s IPW certification seal, a guarantee of its commitment to sustainable viti culture, wherever the vineyards may be.

With Love From The Cape Cabernet Sauvignon LCBO 30695, $16.95 This line of wines from Rascallion features grapes from the Western Cape area, typified by bright, intense fruit flavours. The Cab is ripe but elegantly textured, perfect for steak, while the Chenin Blanc ( LCBO 30694, $16.95 ) glistens with tangy pear and apricot notes. Every purchase helps support Dignity Dreams, an NGO that provides menstrual health education to young women from disadvantaged and at-risk communities in South Africa and other parts of Africa.

Tête de Lion Chenin Blanc LCBO 32460, $12.95 Another superb Chenin, this time from the abundant Robertson Valley in the Western Cape. Pineapple and passionfruit abound, but the variety’s bright acidity ensures a clean, lively finish. Tête de Lion Cabernet Sauvignon ( LCBO 32461, $12.95 ) also offers incredible value; it’s a big red with soft tannins and ripe plum and blackberry flavours. As well as its IPW certification, the winery is a member of the Wine and Agricultural Ethical Trading Association (WIETA), a non-profit organization that promotes ethical trade, social responsibility and community development.

Ken Forrester Old Vine Reserve Chenin Blanc VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 231282, $18.95 Farming its Stellenbosch property sustainably—even tilling by hand—is great for the land and also provides additional employment for the community, a priority that Ken Forrester Wines backs up with schooling and transport initiatives for its workforce. From the solar-powered winery comes this splendid, full-bodied Chenin, which gets its complexity from old, low-yielding vines. Look for melon and spicy baked apple aromas with a touch of honeycomb and caramel from careful oak-ageing.

Arniston Bay Shiraz LCBO 33148, $14.95

Coastal vineyards at Africa’s southernmost tip make for fresh, crisp wines like this juicy Shiraz, as well as a refresh ing, fruit-driven Sauvignon Blanc ( LCBO 33147, $14.95 ). For every bottle sold, the winery makes a donation to the South African Founda tion for the Conservation of Coastal Birds, with a focus on the endangered African penguin. It’s also Fairtrade-­ certified and provides youth education bursaries within local communities. Father and son winemakers Francois and Abraham de Villiers work closely with their growers to ensure sustainable and ethical practices are maintained throughout their supply chain.

BOSCHENDAL WINE ESTATE

A special VINTAGES offer! On September 21st, premium wines from top South African producers—Mullineux, Leeu Passant, Boukenhoutskloof and Boschendal— can be purchased online at VintagesShopOnline.com, while stocks last. PHOTO CREDITS: (LEFT) ARIADNE VAN ZANDBERGEN AND (RIGHT) HEMIS / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

PHOTO BY JAMES TSE

With a pinch of nostalgia and a generous pour of affection, we delve back into the past 30 years of Food & Drink ’s cocktails and recipes, fashions and fads. Some have stood the test of time remarkably well; others are definitely due for an update—a little streamlining here, a tweak or two there to make old favourites fresh and relevant. We can always learn from the past and build on it. We can also revel in the flavours we first came to love back in the 1990s—as our iconic products and retro menu prove!

FOOD & DRINK AUTUMN 2023 37

FROM SAKE TO OSAKA

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REIMAGINING THE PAST

Blasts from the Past

Change is the only constant in the world of food and drink. Looking back, it’s clear just how much our preferences have evolved. BY ERIC VELLEND

Caramel Apple Martini

Oscartini

Snowboard Martini

Orchid Plum Martini

Straight-Up Nostalgia In the 1990s, vodka was so big it inspired an entire genre of drinks that stretched the definition of a Martini. It got to the point where any cocktail served in a V-shaped glass would have “-tini” slapped on its name. Vodka has been making a comeback, thanks to fine bottles crafted by local distillers and, of course, the return of the Espresso Martini. Here is a fun look at some of our whackier ’tinis of yore. Find these recipes at LCBO.com/fdautumn23.

Mar-Tea-Ni

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DARREN KEMPER; FOOD STYLING BY CHRISTOPHER ST. ONGE; PROP STYLING BY CATHERINE MacFADYEN

FOOD & DRINK AUTUMN 2023 39

BLASTS FROM THE PAST

Some Like It Hot Over the past 30 years, many Canadians went from owning a single bottle of Tabasco to half a dozen spicy condiments. Here’s a timeline of this modern heat wave.

CHILIES IN OIL This Southern Italian condiment rose in tandem with individual thin-crust pizzas. Toronto’s Terroni imports their dynamite Peperoncini Piccanti (285 g, $11.99, labottegaditerroni.com) from Puglia. SRIRACHA The popularity of Thai, Vietnamese and Pan-Asian cuisine brought this garlicky hot sauce into the mainstream. Huy Fong Foods Sriracha Chili Sauce (740 mL, $6.47, walmart.ca) is the Heinz ketchup of sriracha. HARISSA When Southern Mediterranean flavours became all the rage, so did harissa, the Tunisian paste of chilies, garlic and spices. Since then, local versions have become available, including El Tounsi Harissa (4 oz, $8.49, eltounsifoods.com). MEXICAN HOT SAUCE When tacos began their ascent in Ontario, it put the spotlight on Mexican hot sauces like Valentina Red Hot Sauce (370 mL, $2.17, walmart.ca). It’s inexpensive and moderately spicy with a vinegary kick. CHILI CRISP First bottled in 1997, Lao Gan Ma Spicy Chilli Crisp (700 g, $7.99, tntsupermarket.com) took off here 20 years later. The chunky oil-based condiment adds heat, umami and crunch to noodles, dumplings and rice.

1994

1999

GAME CHANGERS

There have been countless tools, techniques and ingredients that have changed the way we cook. Here are a few of our food editor Eric Vellend’s favourites. TOOLS “We take parchment paper for granted— 30 years ago, you had to buy it at restaurant supply stores! The rasp grater is an invaluable tool for zesting citrus, mincing garlic and grating ginger. And with a high-speed blender, I no longer have to cross my fingers when making frozen cocktails.” TECHNIQUES “I got turned on to dry-brining (aka pre-salting) via Judy Rodgers’s The Zuni Cafe Cookbook (W.W. Norton, 2002), which is essential for chicken and pork. I also love reverse-searing beef roasts. The low-high method yields perfectly medium-rare meat from end to end.” INGREDIENTS “Flaky Maldon sea salt from England is so pretty and delicate I can’t imagine using any other finishing salt. Spanish smoked paprika is an easy way to add a naturally smoky flavour to dishes. Finally, made-in Canada Acid League Cabernet Port Living vinegar is the red wine vinegar of my dreams.”

2005

2011

2018

40 FOOD & DRINK AUTUMN 2023

BLASTS FROM THE PAST

The Art of Styling Drinks

Modern mixologists put just as much thought into presenting a drink as they do into the drink itself. To illustrate the new way of styling drinks, we took three classic cocktails from the archives and gave them makeovers with premium glassware, handcrafted ice and gorgeous garnishes.

MANHATTAN

MARGARITA

GIN & TONIC

CLEAN-UP BITTERS In 1993, the bit ters inventory at home bars rarely

THEN

THEN

THEN

went beyond a dusty bottle of Angostura. Today, there are hundreds of bitters on

the market with flavours ranging from lavender to smoked chili. The most versatile of the new wave is Bittermens Xocolatl Mole Bitters ($25/5 oz, thecraftybar tender.com), which brings notes of dark chocolate, cinnamon and cloves. It’s terrific with reposado tequila, aged rum or bour bon. Try a dash (10 to 12 drops) in your next Old Fashioned.

NOW

NOW

NOW

CLEAR HIGHBALL, SQUARE ICE CUBES, CUCUMBER RIBBON, ROSEMARY SPRIG

LOWBALL, HALF SALT RIM ON SIDE USING DIAMOND CRYSTAL KOSHER, ONE BIG CUBE, DEHYDRATED LIME WHEEL

NICK & NORA GLASS, LUXARDO

CHERRY ON A COCKTAIL PIN

IVY LEAGUE

Many of our readers have extensive collections of Food & Drink , some dating back to the first issue! Did you know that the top universities in the world also collect F&D ? From Harvard to the Sorbonne to the University of Tokyo, students and faculty can pop into their libraries and have a flip through Ontario’s favourite food magazine.

UNVERSITY IMAGES: ISTOCKPHOTO.COM/PASCALE GUERET, ISTOCKPHOTO.COM/APCORTIZASJR, ISTOCKPHOTO.COM/WNMKM; SMALL DRINK IMAGES: ISTOCKPHOTO.COM/DIBROVA, ISTOCKPHOTO.COM/NIKILITOV, ISTOCKPHOTO.COM/ALPHACELL

42 FOOD & DRINK AUTUMN 2023

ADVERTISING FEATURE

THE ROMANCE OF RIOJA

Nestled into the Iberian mountain range of northern Spain, La Rioja is famous for wines that follow tradition but also honour innovation. Rioja's long history dates back to the Roman era, but it was in the late 1800s that the wines gained attention, when enterprising producers traveled to Bordeaux and returned with new techniques, such as the use of oak aging barrels to improve the longevity of Rioja wines. Today, approximately 31% of wine exported from Spain is Rioja, with its signature avour being enjoyed by people in 125 di erent countries. From the Romans to restaurants and homes in every continent—now that’s progress! Rioja wine has stringent rules about its production and classi cation, so each time you open a bottle, you can be assured of a big, boldly structured wine with high tannins and a fruit-forward pro le. Try it with everything from ne dining to fast food, and you’ll savour every sip. Known for producing Spain’s most coveted wine, the Rioja region is rich in both history and innovation. Pour a glass, settle in, and say “Cheers” to the passion and expertise in every bottle.

RIOJA BY THE NUMBERS

2,000 years since wine-making began in Rioja

600 wineries call the region home

4 hours by train from Barcelona

85 % of the wine produced is red

225-litre oak barrels are used to age the wine

RIOJA'S SUB ZONES

What to know before you visit each of the three diverse zones.

Rioja Alta

RIOJA ALAVESA

Located on Spain’s western side, Rioja Alta’s vineyards are serviced by the Ebro River, resulting in an Atlantic climate for the area’s grapes. Expect bold, structured reds with high acidity, fresh whites, and delicate rosés. Those wanting to see the region by bicycle will be delighted passing by historic Roman bridges and monasteries, which merely add to Alta’s diverse landscape. Wine culture permeates the the way of life in the region’s 24 picturesque villages, which welcome tourists with warmth and conviviality. In a region that produces about 79 million litres of wine, clay soil contributes to bright and lively reds. Between scenic hikes, visit the Wine Theme Museum in the hilltop city of Laguardia for an immersive 4-D experience that allows you to discover the region in a new, high-tech way. Once known as Rioja Baja, Rioja Oriental is the easternmost part of the winegrowing area and is beginning to forge its own identity as a producer of exceptional wines. Reds are fresh, with intense aromas, and rosés have a wide range of colours and flavours, thanks to Grenache and Tempranillo grapes. Amongst the castles and ancient Iberian Celtic settlements, you’ll find amazing cuisine. Here, olive oil, pears, mushrooms, and cauliflower all have a protected designation of origin.

RIOJA ALTA

RIOJA ORIENTAL

Rioja Alavesa

GETTING AROUND

Spain has about 16,000 kilometres of roads and high-speed trains connecting major destinations such as Barcelona and Madrid; trains from both cities bring visitors to the Rioja region within

hours. If you don’t plan to rent a car once in Rioja, consider signing up for a tour and let experienced guides plan the route. (See “Rioja: On the Road.”)

Rioja Oriental

BILBAO

BARCELONA

MADRID