LCBO Food & Drink Spring 2022

SPRING 2022

The Spring Issue

COMPLIMENTS OF

FROM ITALY TOYOU AVAILABLE AT THE LCBO

From March 28 th to April 24 th Frescobaldi Castelgiocondo Brunello di Montalcino #650432 - Reg. price : $54.95 SAVE $ 5 00

From March 28 th to April 24 th Carpineto Dogajolo Rosso Toscano Igt #361501 - Reg. price : $17.45 SAVE $ 2 00

From April. 25 th to May 22 nd Melini Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG #487819 - Reg. price : $20.95 SAVE $ 3 00

From May 23 rd to June 19 th Santa Margherita Pinot Grigio #106450 - Reg. price : $20.95 SAVE $ 2 00

From Feb. 28 th to March 27 th Fontanafredda Barolo #20214 - Reg. price : $33.50 SAVE $ 4 00

From Feb. 28 th to March 27 th Liano Sangiovese Cabernet Sauvignon I.g.t. #225086 - Reg. price : $27.95 SAVE $ 5 00

From Feb. 28 th to March 27 th Tommasi Ripasso Valpolicella Classico Superiore #910430 - Reg. price : $24.95 SAVE $ 2 50

From March 28 th to April 24 th Citra Montepulciano D’Abruzzo #446633 - Reg. price : $8.95 SAVE $ 1 00

CAMPAIGN FINANCED ACCORDING TO EU REG. N. 1308/2013

Please drink responsibly

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

62 PICK OF THE BRUNCH

Features

62 PICK OF THE BRUNCH By Christopher St. Onge Mix and match a personalized brunch menu of fabulous dishes— and drinks—for Easter.

70 SWEET ’N’ SOUR By Joanne Yolles

Welcome spring with a flourish of delectable rhubarb desserts. 76 MAD FOR MAPLE By Charlene Rooke Canada’s iconic syrup plays a new role as a sweet and subtle cocktail component.

ON THE COVER Pistachio Rhubarb Tart, recipe on page 114. Photography by James Tse

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FOOD & DRINK SPRING 2022

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Departments

FOOD 83 FLAVOURS SUPER BOWLS By Eshun Mott

Healthy and delicious, these vegetarian bowls will brighten up your weekday and weekend lunches.

95 SEASONAL SPLIT DECISION By Eric Vellend

No matter the weather, hearty and lightweight options for everyday chicken, eggs and pasta.

95 SPLIT DECISION

DRINK 37 BEER HAIL TO THE ALE By Tonia Wilson-Vuksanovic Use seasonal soups to explore the nuanced flavours of a variety of IPA styles. 45 LOCAL WONDER WOMEN By Christine Sismondo Matching women who craft wines, beers and spirits with women chefs makes delicious magic. 14 EDITOR’S NOTES 21 INSIDE SCOOP By Eric Vellend The latest bits, bites and sips to keep you in the know. 115 RECIPE INDEX

53 SEASONAL LUCK OF THE IRISH By Jesse Vallins

Everyday and extra-special beers, spirits and recipes from the Emerald Isle honour St. Patrick’s Day.

87

87 TWISTS BENDING THE RULES By Victoria Walsh

Hybrids, mash-ups and collaborations— all the latest trends in the world of drinks.

In every issue

115 SOURCE resource 116 THE BACK PAGE

A SPLASH OF TEQUILA By Michelle Lucas Larving Cocktails turn into dessert with sensational Salted Margarita Bars.

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SPRING 2022 FOOD & DRINK

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Coming next issue Available May 4

Thirst ’ade Homemade ’ades make super fruity summer cocktails Loafing about Cornbreads, banana breads and yogurt cakes, every which way Picnic season A feast that tastes even better out of doors Know your rum A primer on styles, products, cocktails and cooking ideas

Many of the products featured in this issue are available to purchase online at lcbo.com.

Chief Marketing and Digital Officer, LCBO Vanda Provato Editor Jody Dunn Art Directors Karen Lim

Publication Assistant Piper MacFadyen Production Assistant

Everton Smith Food Stylists Eshun Mott, Christopher St. Onge, Dara Sutin Prop Stylists Christine Hanlon, Catherine MacFadyen,

For general inquiries about Food & Drink magazine or information about LCBO products and policy, please contact helloLCBO online at hellolcbo.com, or call toll-free 1•800•668•5226 or 416•365•5900. TTY Only: 416•864•6898 or 1•800•361•3291. All advertiser applications are subject to the terms and conditions of the LCBO’s advertising agreement. Food & Drink is published five times a year by the Liquor Control Board of Ontario. Volume 29, Number 3. Food & Drink is printed on paper that contains 10 per cent post‑consumer fibre. Food & Drink is recyclable in communities participating in magazine recycling programs.

Cathy Cicchini Drinks Editor Charlene Rooke

Shelly Shnier Contributors Katie Hayden, Jessica Huras,

Food Editor Eric Vellend Content Editors Suresh Doss Victoria Walsh Publication Coordinators Graphic Designers Dominique Patafio Pat Turbach Production Coordinator Judy Haverkort Leslie Bolter Tricia Lahde

Michelle Lucas Larving, Eshun Mott, Christine Sismondo, Michele Sponagle, Christopher St. Onge, Heather Trim, Jesse Vallins, Tonia Wilson-Vuksanovic, Joanne Yolles Publisher Wayne Leek Advertising Sales Kirby Miller, Beaches Media Services kirby@beachesmediaservices.com

Publication Mail Agreement No. 40064521 Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Food & Drink , 100 Queens Quay East, 9th Floor, Toronto, ON, M5E 0C7 ISSN 1195-5988

Not all of the wines, spirits and beers mentioned in Food & Drink will be available at all LCBO stores. Prices are subject to change without notice. Cette publication est également disponible en français.

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SPRING 2022 FOOD & DRINK

MATCHA

A FRESH NEW FLAVOUR FOR SPRING

Enjoy the DISTINCTIVE TASTE of Japanese MATCHA tea with a CREAM FINISH

NOW AVAILABLE AT THE LCBO

Please Enjoy Responsibly. Represented by PMA Canada Ltd. www.pmacanada.com

LCBO NOTES

From our President & CEO

Dear friends, The arrival of spring seems particularly welcome this year as we all look forward to brighter days. There is an energy in the new season that boosts our hopes and gives an extra impetus to our shared efforts to get life back on track. With that in mind, we have good news to report with the ongoing success of the LCBO’s Spirit of Sustainability (SoS) part- nerships and programs. We launched our Spirit of Inclusion Initiative, where we’ve come together with our impact partners to offer mentorships, bursaries and continuing education to diverse women who wish to begin or advance their training in the win- ery, brewery and distillery industries. That work continues. Meanwhile, we are excited to recognize and celebrate International Women’s Day on March 8 with our annual Equity campaign. Together with our part- ners—including Women’s College Hospital Foundation—we will be supporting equi- table access to healthcare, resources and economic opportunities across Ontario. The LCBO’s long-term diversity, inclusion, belonging and equity goals are ambitious, but I believe they can be achieved: helping to create a province where all individuals have equal access to the essential resources they need to live happy, healthy lives—regardless of gender, race, age, class, religion, ability, sexual orientation, or identity. Having a tangible and positive impact on the way we live in Ontario is part of the LCBO’s mission. To put it another way, we want to ensure everyone’s glass is overflowing with possibilities.

You can discover more information about all these initiatives on our refreshed website, LCBO.com. As I write these words, we are preparing its launch—and by the time you read this it may well be up and running. With an updated look and feel, the new web- site is full of useful and innovative features, including badges to identify best sellers; icons that note when a product is Kosher, made in Ontario, organic or VQA; and a 5-point scale description for wines, profiling elements such as sweetness, body and fla- vour intensity. These helpful additions make finding and purchasing the products you need even easier. And of course, LCBO.com is also the home for the expansive archive of past and present recipes from Food & Drink . Lastly, if you have not done so already, be sure to sign up to Aeroplan. Members earn points on in-store purchases at LCBO, plus monthly bonus-point offers on many popu- lar products. You can redeem your Aeroplan points for travel, hotels and merchandise, as well as LCBO gift cards, in the Aeroplan eStore. It only takes 1,000 Aeroplan points to get a $10 LCBO gift card—a perfect present for a friend or colleague. And if you need a reason why, may I suggest the imminent ar- rival of spring and the fresh start we all hope the new season brings.

George Soleas President & CEO, LCBO

PORTRAIT BY JAMES TSE

12

SPRING 2022 FOOD & DRINK

EDITOR’S NOTES

Signs of Spring

If everything has gone according to plan, by the time you read this Ontario will be safely free of most pandemic restrictions and decidedly in the mood to celebrate! No matter the occasion, big or small, the urge to get together again will not be denied and we’ll take any excuse to entertain. Of course, St. Patrick’s Day and Easter are on the horizon, so you’ll be making plans to celebrate those—­ likely with a larger crowd than last year. In “Luck of the Irish” on page 53, chef and recipe developer Jesse Vallins has curated a selection of products from the Emerald Isle that are perfect for raising a toast, along with a couple of Irish-inspired cocktails and dishes that feature lamb as the main attrac- tion. For Easter, we asked Christopher St. Onge to come up with new recipes that could easily be incorporated into a traditional spring brunch, adding variety when served alongside trusted old standbys. Christopher also hap- pens to be a talented food stylist and these dishes (starting on page 62) look as delicious as they taste. As well as the big occasions, spring brings plenty of reasons to host more impromptu gatherings—opportunities to partake in smaller indulgences for yourself and your friends. Is the sap starting to flow in the sugar bushes? Choose and pour a maple cocktail from the fine assortment beginning on page 76, honouring one of the surest

signs that spring is on the way. Are the first shoots of rhubarb poking up from the ground? Check out “Sweet ‘N’ Sour” on page 70 and bake up something de- licious, either for dessert or to drop off to friends. For International Women’s Day on March 8th consider purchas- ing and sharing products made by a few of the local women making their mark in the Ontario wine, beer and spirit industry—you can read all about them starting on page 45. Speaking of impressive women, we wanted to share that this is the last issue for our current Art Direction team, Karen Lim Design. We could not be more grateful to the core group of Karen Lim, Cathy Cicchini and Pat Turbach—along with a host of remarkable designers who have come and gone over the years—for their amazing creative talents and leader- ship that have shaped every issue and helped endear Food & Drink to you, our readers. On behalf of myself and the entire crew, we thank them and fondly wish them well. As the seasons shift from winter to spring, we hope you enjoy this issue as much as you enjoy getting back together with family and friends after being apart for far too long.

PORTRAIT BY JAMES TSE

Sustainable Spring Earth Day (April 22) is a good reminder to check that we’re all making sustainable choices. Food & Drink is produced on paper with 10% recycled content, and you can help complete the cycle: when you’ve finished enjoying your copy, please ensure that it gets recycled properly.

@lcbofoodanddrink

lcbofoodanddrink

LCBO

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SPRING 2022 FOOD & DRINK

TOUCHED BY FIRE, FOR A RICH, SMOOTH TASTE

ADVERTISING FEATURE

Memories are made in the kitchen. Whether you’re preparing something special on a leisurely weekend or making your favourite quick go-to at the end of a busy day, Ontario VQA wines are a fine addition to your meal. Local reds like Cabernet Merlot or a well-curated blend work nicely to complement a variety of dishes, from a classic roast with vegetables to comfort-food pasta. Look to a crisp Pinot Gris or a beautiful white blend to enjoy with lighter fare or appetizers. A European Riesling varietal can find a lovely new interpretation in our local soils, making it the perfect pairing for boldly flavoured dishes. Of course, our local wines work well as a top-quality ingredient too, lending homegrown taste to your recipes. A LOCAL WINE Local wines are the secret ingredient BRIGHT IDEA BRING HOME

This spring, invite Ontario VQA wines to your table to share with friends and family.

GrowWild Enchanting White VQA 20259 l 750 mL l $1 5 .95 Aromatic & Flavourful (XD – 5 g/L)

Sip and savour fragrant notes of tart apple and elderflower in this blend. Crisp and dry, it pairs beautifully with hummus and pita or avocado toast.

35568

HopetownWine Co. Hill House Craft Red VQA 20258 l 750 mL l $13.95 Medium-bodied & Fruity (D – 6 g/L) Bold and juicy, this supple red has flavours of red currant and blackberry. Enjoy it with your favourite mains, like a robust tomato pasta or grilled lamb.

Château Des Charmes Cabernet- Merlot Estate Grown & Bottled VQA 556951 l 750 mL l $14.95 Full-bodied & Firm (XD – 2 g/L) Look for blueberry, cherry, toasty oak, currant and even eucalyptus tones in this red. It’s an excellent accompaniment to roasted meat and potato meals.

Cave Spring Pinot Gris VQA 522979 l 750 mL l $15.95 Aromatic & Flavourful (XD – 2 g/L) This elegant extra-dry white has pleasing pear, fresh fig and melon aromas, followed by mellow pear and nut tones.

Vineland Estates Elevation St. Urban Vineyard Riesling VQA A Vintages Essential 38117 l 750 mL l $22.95 Aromatic & Flavourful (MS – 37 g/L) Pair this off-dry white’s herb and mineral notes with flavourful Asian fare like spicy noodles or hearty salads featuring crab and green beans.

Featured products are available at select LCBO stores. Prices subject to change without notice. *VINTAGES Essentials Collection is always available at many LCBO locations. Visit lcbo.com/vintages-essentials

IF YOU CAN’T GET TO SFO OR LAX, THERE’S ALWAYS LCBO.

CALIFORNIA WINES. AS ALIVE AS THE PLACE THEY’RE GROWN.

Assuming your travel has been limited to LVG (living room), MBR (master bedroom) and KIT (kitchen), may we suggest a trip to your nearest LCBO for some California wine? They’re ripe and delicious and no passport is needed.

discovercaliforniawines.com sustainablewinegrowing.org

@CaliforniaWinesCanada

@California.Wines.Canada

TRINITY OAKS CHARDONNAY

KENDALL JACKSON VINTNERS’ RESERVE CHARDONNAY

CUPCAKE LIGHTHEARTED CHARDONNAY

TOM GORE CHARDONNAY

$17.95 now $15.95 from Apr 25 - May 22 LCBO 15762 One Bottle, One Tree

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from Apr 25 - May 22 $15.95 now $13.95

LCBO 369686 92pts “Editor’s Choice” from Wine Enthusiast

LCBO 458810 NEW RELEASE APRIL 16 TH

LCBO 19725

SUSTAINABLE

SUSTAINABLE

Notes of pear, grilled pineapple, brown spice, and caramel with a nice richness in the mouth and a creamy texture and finish.

Fresh citrus aromas lead to juicy pineapple flavors with delicate hints of sweet oak and a silky-smooth finish.

Tropical flavors such as pineapple and mango intertwine with aromas of vanilla and honey to create depth and balance throughout.

Medium-bodied with flavours of fresh cut pineapple and ripe pear. At only 8% alcohol and 100 calories per 6oz serving, Cupcake Lighthearted brings full flavour to all of life’s lighter moment.

JOSH CELLARS CENTRAL COAST PINOT NOIR

SAND POINT CHARDONNAY

CONUNDRUM WHITE

$21.95

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LCBO 17150 Wine Enthusiast American Winery of the Year

LCBO 11194

RELEASING MARCH 5 TH

SUSTAINABLE

NEW

Aromas of bright cherries, raspberries and toasty oak with flavors of dark cherry and vanilla bean.

Layered with smooth tropical fruit and bright apple notes with a toasty mellowness from oak aging.

A light gold color with honey understones, this wine features floral scents of delicate wildflowers, honeysuckle and apricot. Now 2 g/l, dry fresh and crisp.

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Inside scoop The latest bits, bites and sips to keep you in the know.

By Eric Vellend | PHOTOGRAPHY by darren kemper

22 Tending to your bar 22 Top picks for spring 22 Traditions: Ramadan 24 Insta cup 24 Irish Elder 24 What to bring 26 Sip what you sow 28 Hooked on fish sauce 28 Local whites for spring 28 Traditions: Passover 30 Lay terms 30 Who to follow 30 Elevate your G&T Shaking off the chill of winter, spring ushers in a season of new growth and festive holidays. In the drinks depart- ment, there’s a G&T inspiration board, a St. Patrick’s Day cocktail and local white wines for weekday sipping. We’ve also got a pesto primer and, for Earth Day, expert advice on how to reduce your carbon footprint in the kitchen.

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32 Savings plan 32 Quirky jerky 32 Plant-based 34 Herb appeal 34 Agave my heart

Sip what you sow 26

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FOOD & DRINK SPRING 2022

INSIDE SCOOP

Spring Cleaning

Top picks for spring Looking to try something new? Here are four beverages we’re most excited about. WHAT’S NEW

Spirits While sealed spirits last almost in­ defnitely, opened bottles start to deteriorate after a year or two. If you have any beyond that, taste for quali­ ty and plan to use them up in cocktails or cooking. Liqueurs Taste liqueurs that have been open more than one year. If they’re still fne, fnish them in cocktails or desserts. Discard any bottles whose contents have discoloured. Pay special atten­ tion to cream liqueurs, which have a best-before date. Wine Unless they were bought to age, un­ opened wines that have been kicking around for more than three years should be enjoyed soon, especially if they weren’t stored in a cool, dark place. Open bottles of vermouth and dry sherry stored at room tempera­ ture should be discarded—refrigerate them after opening next time! Garnishes Check cocktail cherries, olives and any other perishable garnishes. If in doubt, throw it out and start fresh. Display To declutter your bar, artfully arrange the best-looking bottles, tools and glassware then store the rest. Haven’t used certain glasses or barware in ages? Donate them to charity or put them out for curbside recycling. When planning your spring-cleaning routine, don’t forget the liquor cab- inet and wine rack. Here are some tips to reorganize and refresh your home bar. By Jessica Huras Tending to your bar

19 Crimes Snoop Dogg Cali Rosé

Flying Monkeys Space Age Sunshine Orange Creamsicle Quadruple IPA LCBO 24518, 473 mL, $5.25 Dazzling quadruple IPA with fve kinds of hops, orange purée and a hint of vanilla. Available now.

Campari Negroni LCBO 24096, 375 mL, $22.95 A bottled Negroni from the OG aperitivo? Yes, please! Just stir with ice and add an orange twist. Available April 2022.

Corona Tropical Cactus & Lime

LCBO 24377, 355 mL, $2.95 Thirst-quenching alco­ holic sparkling water made with real prickly pear juice and lime. Available in April.

LCBO 20624, $19.95 Fruity, refreshing, off-dry rosé from the D-O-double-G. Available now.

TRADITIONS Ramadan

When: April 2 to May 1 (dates may vary slightly depending on the moon) What: The holiest month of the year for Muslims, Ramadan commemo­ rates Muhammad’s frst revelation. For the entire duration, adults (with exceptions) fast from dawn to sunset, which fosters spiritual contem­ plation and teaches self-discipline. The pre-dawn meal is called suhoor , and the evening dinner is called iftar . At the end of Ramadan, there is a three-day fete, Eid al-Fitr, to celebrate a return to normalcy. Essential dishes: In Morocco, the hearty lamb and legume soup called harira is popular at iftar , and in Iran they savour a funnel cake– type fritter called zoolbia .

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SPRING 2022 FOOD & DRINK

An estate-grownwine has its own special character. It’s a true statement about the way the vines transformsoil, water, and sunlight into something uniquely of that place. An estate-grownwine has its own s ecial character. It’s a true statement about the way the vines transformsoil, water, and sunlight into something uniquely of that place.

All of ourMcManis wines are estate grown in several preferred appellations, allowing each varietal its full expression. Raise a glass, and find out exactly where we’re coming from. All f ourMcManis wines are estate grown in several preferred appellations, allowing each varietal its full expression. Raise a glass, and find out exactly where we’re coming from.

Authentic.

ES TAT E GROWN

• APPEL L AT I ON SPEC I F I C

Authentically Cab A Vintages“Essential”always available at the LCBO.

AVintages “Essential” always available at the LCBO. Please enjoy responsibly. Represented in Ontario by The Vine. thevineagency.ca

F A M I L Y V I N E Y A R D S ®

Please enjoy responsibly. Represented in Ontario by THE VINE: thevineagency.ca

F A M I L Y V I N E Y A R D S ®

INSIDE SCOOP

TRENDSPOTTING Insta cup

Instant coffee has come a long way, baby! Forget about those grim jars of yore: the country’s top roasters are flexing their muscles with revelatory cups of freeze- dried joe. The little packets they offer are perfect for travelling, but they’re also great to have on hand for brunch—especially to offer the option of decaf without having to brew a whole pot. Our favourites include the smooth, rich Dispatch Blend Saisonnier ($20, 6 pk, dispatchcoffee.ca) and the chocolaty Pilot Coffee Roasters Heritage ($20.95, 7 pk, pilotcoffeeroasters.com.)

Irish Elder If you want to raise a glass on St. Patrick’s Day but green beer isn’t your thing, consider mixing up an Irish Elder (recipe on page 105). A signature drink of food editor Eric Vellend, this Old Fashioned variation sweetens fruity Irish whiskey with a splash of elderflower liqueur and ties everything together with orange bitters and a lemon twist. Sláinte! Visit lcbo.com/fdcocktail to watch this drink being made. cocktail of the month

Available in April

GIFTING What to bring Whether you’re in­ vited to Easter dinner, a Passover Seder or an Earth Day fete, gift a great bottle to show you care.

Easter From Chile’s Colchagua Valley, this smoky, complex red blend (domina­ ted by Syrah and Carménère) is out- standing with roast lamb. Emiliana Coyam ( VINTAGES 63891, $29.95)

Passover This fruity Bordeaux-style blend from Israel’s Golan Heights is excel- lent with brisket, and it’s kosher for Passover. Yarden Mount Hermon Red KP ( VINTAGES 611293, $22.65)

Earth Day A spectacular Chard from a certified organic winery in Niagara, tastes like white Burgundy twice its price. Hidden Bench Estate Chardonnay VQA ( VINTAGES 68817, $29.95)

24

SPRING 2022 FOOD & DRINK

NEW! Earn points at the LCBO

made for earning every day

EARN POINTS EVERY TIME YOU SHOP AT THE LCBO 1 point for every $4 spent and earn bonus points on select product offers in-store.

SCAN YOUR DIGITAL OR PHYSICAL CARD AT THE LCBO CHECKOUT Access your digital card within the Air Canada app.

scan to join aeroplan or visit aircanada.com/join

1,000 POINTS TO REDEEM FOR LCBO GIFT CARDS THROUGH THE AEROPLAN ESTORE

PLUS, EARN MORE ON YOUR EVERYDAY PURCHASES WITH OUR 190+ PARTNERS

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®Aeroplan is a registered trademark of Aeroplan Inc., used under licence. ®The Air Canada maple leaf logo is a registered trademark of Air Canada, used under licence. Starbucks and the Starbucks logos are registered trademarks of Starbucks Corporation.

INSIDE SCOOP

GET PLANTING

Sipwhat you sow

Start a spring garden now, with an eye ahead to using fresh ingredients in summer cocktails. Think eye-catching garnishes, infused syrups and more. By Michele Sponagle

1 Hotel Toronto gets fresh

Take a lesson from 1 Hotel Toronto, where plants are

central to the cocktail program. In an on-site glass pavilion, the hotel grows more than 30 ingre- dients for its bars and restau- rants, explains Matt Erickson, SH Hotels food and beverage president. An edible flower, cucumber water or a rosemary garnish might enliven your drinks there. “By cutting through acidity and sweetness, these fresh ingredients add balance and en- hance the cocktail experience,” he says. In addition, as part of a sustainability focus, kitchen food waste is composted and even­ tually added to the growing soil.

How and where to plant

Begin indoors with the basics: a few packages of seeds and a few tiny containers (even egg cartons will do) filled with a peat-based, soilless seed-starting mix. Label each pot with plant name and date started. Find the sunniest window in your home, mist to keep the containers moist and let nature take over. Some seeds can take more than two weeks to sprout, so be patient! Once seedlings mature, transfer them to larger pots that you can eventu- ally move outside, or replant them in your garden after the risk of frost has passed.

What to plant Get creative when planting your cocktail garden. For unique garnishes, dress up glasses with everything from edible marigold petals to chives. Consider these suggestions to get started.

Find the cocktail recipes below at lcbo.com/fdspring22

English lavender Possible uses: Rim glasses with ground dried flowers or simmer blossoms in simple syrup. Flavour profile: Floral notes Thyme Possible uses: Drape sprigs over cocktails, or crush gently with a spoon to release flavour and aromas and add to drinks. Flavour profile: Subtle herbaceous notes reminiscent of mint. Try it: Summer Thyme Collins

Italian basil Possible uses: Tear leaves to gar­ nish a G&T, infuse simple syrups or blend into frozen drinks. Flavour profile: Mild, peppery, sweet. Try it: Coco-Basil Cocktail Cilantro Possible uses: Put leaves into a shaker for Martinis and Margaritas, or use leaves and long stems as garnish. Flavour profile: Citrusy herbal flavour, or soapy to some. Try it: Thai Margarita, shown above

Jalapeño pepper Possible uses: Chop and crush into spicy cocktails, slice into rounds and use as garnish. Flavour profile: Vegetal notes with mild heat. Try it: Mexican Spice Mojito

Spearmint Possible uses: Muddle into a classic Mojito, add contrast to sweet cocktails or use as an aromatic garnish. Flavour profile: Slightly sweet with green notes. Try it: Irish Gimlet

with a citrus undertone. Try it: Blooming Violet

PORTRAIT BY WESTON WELLS; THYME BY ISTOCK.COM/JOHNGOLLOP; ENGLISH LAVENDER BY ©ANTONEL/ADOBE STOCK; CILANTRO AND JALAPEÑO PEPPER BY ISTOCK.COM/FLOORTJE; ITALIAN BASIL BY ISTOCK.COM/PIRAHAPHOTOS; SPEARMINT BY ISTOCK.COM/LEZH

26

SPRING 2022 FOOD & DRINK

CHEERS, PLANET EARTH

Celebrate Earth Day, April 22 with Castano Organic Monastrell ($10.90, #635771) Save $1.00 March 28 - April 24

Visit azureau.com/castano for pairing ideas

INSIDE SCOOP

You bought fish sauce to make Pad Thai, and now the bottle is languishing in the pantry. While the Asian seasoning never really seems to go bad, the colour dark- ens, and the flavour concentrates over time, so it’s best enjoyed within a year of opening. Beyond Southeast Asian cuisine, the liquid umami can do wonders for tomato sauce, stir-fries, Caesar dressing and any vegetable in the brassica family. Even a few drops can noticeably sharpen vegetable soups. Remember to dash fish sauce judiciously: the window between tasty and fishy is small. Hooked on fish sauce PANTRY RESCUE

TRADITIONS Passover When: April 15 to 23

What: An important eight- day Jewish holiday to com- memorate the biblical story of Exodus, when the Israelites were freed from slavery in Egypt. During this period, no grain products or leavened baked goods (called chametz ) are allowed except for mat- zoh, a specially made flour- and-water cracker. Seders— festive family gatherings with prayers, songs, rituals, food and wine—are held on the first two nights. Essential dishes: Matzoh ball soup, gefilte fish (poached fish dumplings), matzoh brei (French toast-ish dish made with matzoh instead of bread).

PASSOVER PHOTO BY ISTOCK.COM/ETORRES 69

As winter melts into spring, it’s time to consider transitioning from red wines to white. That means drinking local, as Niagara consistently produces excellent options priced for everyday enjoyment. While it’s still on the chilly side, crack a bottle of the fresh, subtly oaked Malivoire Estate Grown Chardonnay VQA (VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 573147, $19.95) with baked salmon or roast chicken. Off-dry Flat Rock Riesling VQA (VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 43281, $17.95) has incredible sweet-sour tension and would be terrific with a charcuterie board. And when it finally becomes T-shirt weather, enjoy the crisp, citrusy Creekside Sauvignon Blanc VQA (LCBO 620724, $15.95) with the first veggies of spring. Local whites for spring SEASONAL SIPS

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INSIDE SCOOP

SEASONAL SIPS Elevate your G&T The loving union of gin and tonic water has cemented itself in the highball hall of fame. With the dizzying array of gins and dozens of premium tonics available today, the permutations and combinations are truly endless. Start with a basic ratio of one part gin to two parts tonic, and try these ideas to mix up your G&T game. To celebrate the season, our tart, refreshing Spring G&T (recipe on page 105) flavoured with cucumber and mint is the LCBO’s cocktail of the month for April. Visit lcbo.com/fdcocktail to watch it being made.

Find these recipes online at lcbo.com/fdspring22

Looking for brunch inspiration? The Food & Drink archives have a number of recipes to take your egg game out of the chicken coop. Tiny quails’ eggs are often hard-boiled or fried as part of an hors d’oeuvre, and they play a strong supporting role in our hearty Confit of Chicken Gizzards with Greens and Soft- Boiled Eggs. Roughly 30 per cent larger than chicken eggs, duck eggs are richer and creamier, but can be swapped into any egg recipe, like the quick and easy Poached Eggs on Spinach and Polenta. And if you can get your hands on giant, yolk-heavy goose eggs this spring, whip up a fluffy Classic French Omelette. Quail and duck eggs are available at gourmet shops and Chinese supermarkets; goose eggs can be found at select farmers’ markets. Lay terms

Classic Tanqueray Dry Gin ( LCBO 2691, $30.95) + Fever-Tree Indian tonic + lime wedge

Canadian Empress 1908 Gin ( LCBO 557470, $52.95) + 1642 tonic + lemon wedge

Who to follow: @spicespoon When it comes to local food personalities, Shayma Saadat is a Renaissance woman: she’s a recipe devel­ oper, food stylist, photographer, storyteller and teacher. Naturally, her Instagram feed is both stunning and inspiring. With a Pakistani, Afghani and Persian background, she creates dishes that celebrate the home cooking along the Silk Route. Pay attention around Nowruz, the Persian New Year on March 20, when she might whip up her famous saffron rice dish tahdig .

Pink Malfy Gin Con Rosa ( LCBO 636068, $47.95) + Fentimans Pink Grapefruit tonic + pink grapefruit wedge

Seaside Isle of Harris Gin

( LCBO 16100, $88.50 ) + Canada Dry Premium tonic + kelp seasoning rim

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INSIDE SCOOP

Savings plan ASK AN EXPERT

FAUX BETTER Quirky jerky

Beyond reducing food waste, there are additional ways to soften our carbon footprint in the kitchen. To learn more, we talked to Michelle Genttner, co-owner of Unboxed Market, a zero-waste gro- cery store in Toronto. Let’s start with the big stuff. When buying newkitchen appliances, what should you look for? Check the energy rating. The mandatory EnerGuide label shows the efficiencies of a machine compared to other models in the same category. This info can help keep your hydro/gas bills down and lower your house- hold’s carbon footprint. What are some tips to conserve water in the kitchen? Don’t run water when you don’t need it. Keep a pitcher of cold water in the fridge instead of running water to get it cold. When you’re wash- ing vegetables, put them in a basin of water and wash them all in the same vessel. Then use that water to water your plants. Say a recipe calls for one head of roasted garlic. How can you avoid turning on the oven for this small task? This is where a toaster oven comes in handy— it’s smaller and heats up more quickly. You could also batch off a lot of garlic at the same time—it freezes really well. Or roast it while you’re roasting other things. I’ve even heard you can roast garlic in an air fryer! Meal-planning in and of itself will help con- serve both food and energy. If you’re planning two different rice dishes in the week, cook all the rice in one go. In general, make big batches, then portion and freeze—that way you’re using your energy as efficiently as possible. Any other tips on reducing your carbon footprint in the kitchen? Be aware. Think about what you’re doing and why you’re doing it. Is there a way to make the task larger and, consequently, your use smaller? How can you plan yourmeals to conserve energy?

Boldly flavoured and intensely savoury, jerky is the perfect snack

to take on a spring hike or liven up a packed lunch. If you don’t eat meat, there are a number of plant- based options available. For soy-based imitation jerky, we like both the smoky Electric Jerky Texas BBQ Plant Based Jerky (70 g, $7.99, electricjerky.ca) and the sweet Noble Jerky Teriyaki Vegan Jerky (70 g, $6.99, well.ca). For something different, try the mushroom-based Savory Wild Sesame, Ginger & Korean Chili Portabella Jerky (57 g, $8.99, well.ca), delightfully chewy morsels of pure umami.

Botanicals are not just for gin anymore. Other beverages are now getting in on the action, employing plant-derived fla- vours to lift their spirits. Smirnoff and Ketel One each have a trio of botanical vodkas, and XOXO makes a line of bo- tanical wines and spritzers. The bottle Plant-based TRENDSPOTTING

we’re most excited about is from Forty Creek Distillery in Grimsby. The Forager Botanical Whisky (LCBO 13915, $31.95) subtly infuses premium Canadian whisky with juniper berries, spruce tips and Labrador tea for a memorable sipping experience.

PORTRAIT BY LEANN WESTON PHOTOGRAPHY

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IT’S ALL SMOOTH SAILING AHEAD

NOW AVAILABLE AT YOUR LCBO

@COWBEL LBREWI NG | COWBEL LBREWI NG . COM | PLEASE ENJOY RESPONS I BLY

INSIDE SCOOP

Herb appeal DINNER’S READY If fresh herbs have a habit of rotting in your crisper, we’ve got the answer: pesto. The vibrant green sauce will turn neglected herbs into an instant flavour booster. The basic ratio is 2 cups (500 mL) packed herbs, 1/4 cup (60 mL) nuts or seeds, 1/2 cup (125 mL) oil and 1 large garlic clove (minced). With a food processor and this handy chart, you’re ready to get saucy.

TRENDSPOTTING

Agave my heart Tequila is now being appreciated at a level more often reserved for whisky. Here are some new bottles for every level of agave aficionado.

Dejado Tequila Blanco LCBO 19441, $49.95

Packaged in a handsome bottle, this citrusy, peppery blanco is excellent on the rocks or in a next-level Margarita. Mezcal Agua Santa LCBO 14660, $63.05 A great intro to tequila’s smoky cousin, this mezcal is well-priced and slightly lower in alcohol than the norm. Cincoro Tequila Reposado LCBO 25143, $199.95 Co-founded by NBA legend Michael Jordan, Cincoro crafts this ultra-premium reposado, which offers notes of vanilla, chocolate and caramel.

GENOVESE

ASIAN

PARSLEY

CARROT TOP

pasta, salads, sandwiches

noodles, seafood

vegetable soups, lamb

carrot dishes, beet salads

Uses Herb Nut Oil Extras

basil

cilantro

flat-leaf parsley

carrot top leaves

walnuts

pine nuts

peanuts

slivered almonds

canola

virgin avocado

walnut

extra virgin olive

fresh ginger, jalapeño

anchovy, wine vinegar

lemon juice

Parmesan

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Taste That’s Full of Life

PERONI_CA

ABOUTALCOHOL.COM

TRIUS BRUT ROSÉ $29.95 LCBO #17690

NOW AVAILABLE YEAR ROUND AT THE LCBO

BEER

Hail to the ale

Broth soups can be a chal- lenge for pairing as they tend to be delicate, so choosing a lighter-style beer is a step in the right direction. The addi- tion of nutty bulgur wheat and shredded chicken adds heft to this soup, bringing it closer to the weight of the beer. A last-minute hit of fresh lemon brightens things up and links perfectly to the ubiquitous citrus notes found in IPAs.

By Tonia Wilson-Vuksanovic | photography by darren kemper

Not all IPAs are created equal. Each type has its own nuances and flavours, showcased here with a variety of hearty soups, sure to chase away a chill on a spring day.

Bench Brewing Ball’s Falls Session IPA LCBO 481515, 473 mL, $3.30 Juicy and sessionable, offer­ ing up lots of stone fruit and red ruby grapefruit while remaining at 4.5% alcohol by volume (ABV).

LEMONY CHICKEN & BULGUR SOUP

Recipe on page 110

Side Launch Brewery Any Day Light IPA LCBO 17406, 473 mL, $3.45 The name says it all. With a low ABV of 4%, this IPA still delivers all the juicy, citrusy personality one expects.

Easy drinking and light

The beloved IPA beer style is known for its elevated alcohol and hopping, but some brewers also create lighter versions that are more approachable and more sessionable. Lighter-style IPAs still offer lots of bold flavour from hops and malt, but the alcohol levels are kept in check, normally hovering around 5% or lower.

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HAIL TO THE ALE

Classic and balanced This style of IPA encompasses versions that showcase balance and restraint. Everything is in its place: the hops, alcohol and sweet malt are all recognizable and available for the tasting, but none of these components are obtrusive or overwhelm their counterparts. A balanced IPA should have noticeable hops, but not to the point where they’re the only ingredient doing the talking. The same applies to the sweetness of malt and level of alcohol: in a well-balanced IPA, they are noticeable but thoughtfully integrated in the beer.

CHEDDAR & BACON SOUP WITH CRUSHED PRETZELS

Recipe on page 110

This soup was created to be a perfect pairing for beer. Bacon, cheese and pretzels: need we say more? The creamy, deca- dent nature of this soup is a great counterpoint to the bright personality of a classic IPA. Its velvety consistency opens the beer up, allowing it to be more expressive. Smoky bacon nods to the sweet, toasted malt, and the crushed pretzels are a cheeky garnish that adds a pleasant contrasting texture.

Great Lakes Brewery Octopus Wants to Fight IPA LCBO 458273, 473 mL, $3.45 A generous nose of papaya, candied orange and lime blossom with a cleansing herba- ceous finish rem- iniscent of dried rosemary.

Collective Arts Ransack the Universe IPA LCBO 450312, 473 mL, $3.65 Begins with notes of mango and clementine. The full mouth feel repeats the ripe flavours and wraps up with a pleasant rooibos tea finish.

Creemore Springs Boundless IPA

LCBO 698415, 473 mL, $3.40 A sweet malt

backbone tables ripe tropical aro- mas of pineapple and mango, while well-integrated hops keep this IPA balanced and approachable.

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SPRING 2022 FOOD & DRINK

$17 solution. Great-value wines.

THIS IS VINTAGES

The cassis and cedar of this old-vine Cabernet Sauvignon acquire jammyberry tones from a splash of old-vine Zinfandel. Try it with ribs. GNARLED VINE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2019 California

(Oak Ridge Winery) 19568 (XD) 750 mL $17.00 2 Medium-bodied & Fruity

An Old World gem crafted in a ripe, rich NewWorld style. It shows ample juicy dark fruit and good weight. Perfect for braised beef. GRAN PASSIONE ROSSO 2020 IGT Veneto, Italy (Botter) 410704 (D) 750 mL $17.00 1 Full-bodied & Smooth 97 points (Luca Maroni)

$17 SOLUTION. AVAILABLE IN STORES AND ONLINE FEBRUARY 19, 2022. Featured products may not be available in all Vintages locations. Visit lcbo.com/vintages for availability and store locations. Prices subject to change.

35976

HAIL TO THE ALE

Hoppy and bold

These are the big brothers of the classic IPA—extra in everything. Extra alcohol, hopping, flavour and body! This is where you’ll find the Double and Triple IPAs, meaning double and triple doses of hops. A generous hand is used to dry-hop the beers after fermentation, allowing the hop aroma to explode from the glass. You’ll find more alcohol in these beers because more malt is used to balance the radical hop levels, and this extra malt translates into more alcohol in the final product. These beers are complex, creative and exciting to enjoy.

The bold personality of these beers calls for soup with substance. This vegan soup delivers big, rich, umami-­ laden flavour to stand up to the big flavours in hop-forward IPAs. The most important consideration when matching beer with food is weight. More specifically, the weight of both sides of the pairing needs to be equal so that one doesn’t overwhelm the other. The ingredients in this soup build on each other to create a dish that can withstand all that a highly charged IPA can throw at it.

BLACK-EYED PEA, MUSHROOM & BABY KALE SOUP

Recipe on page 111

Flying Monkeys Sparklepuff Triple IPA LCBO 688507, 473 mL, $4.95

Dry-hopping three times makes for an explosive symphony of tropical, floral and earthy aromas all sitting atop a malty backbone of 10.2% ABV.

Amsterdam Boneshaker IPA LCBO 351429, 473 mL, $3.55

Abundant hopping provides a bitter­ ness level teetering at 80 IBUs, which is skilfully balanced with malt to cre- ate a deliciously bold and balanced beer full of grapefruit and pine.

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SPRING 2022 FOOD & DRINK

CHICKPEA & TAHINI SOUP WITH HARISSA ROASTED PEPPERS

HAIL TO THE ALE

Juicy andhazy The category of IPAs has evolved greatly over the years to include many different variations. One of the most successful renditions to really take hold is the Hazy IPA, a catch-all category that encompasses styles like the New England IPA, East and West Coast IPAs and Juicy IPAs. The one characteristic they all share is that they’re unfiltered and have a protein haze left behind in the beer. It’s visually appetizing and also creates a beer that has a bold, juicy flavour and a soft mouth feel.

Recipe on page 110

Generally speaking, the go-to beer pairing for spicy food tends to be an IPA, but there is a caveat. The beer should not be overly bitter, otherwise the beer’s astringent nature elevates the perception of the heat. That’s why the hazy IPA is perfect with this piquant soup. It has all the round juiciness needed to temper the heat without any overt bitterness.

Muskoka Brewery Hazed & Confused Juicy IPA LCBO 159772, 473 mL, $3.55 This hazy IPA bursts with notes of pineapple and citrus with a finish of grapefruit pith cutting through the haze.

Rouge River Brewery Holy Trinity Hazy IPA LCBO 21944, 473 mL, $4.50 This hazy number delivers juicy notes of citrus along with peach and melon. Round mouth feel makes it perfect for the soup’s heat.

Nickel Brook Wicked Awesome IPA LCBO 573550, 473 mL, $3.55 A juice bomb filled with over-the-top aromas of pine- apple, melon and grapefruit. Think tropical vacation in a glass.

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LOCAL

Wonder women

Given the names on so many labels, it’s easy to get the impression that men have traditionally made all the beer, wine and whisky. History tells another story, though, one of hidden figures in beverage alcohol: the women who invented beer, developed the sparkling wine industry and operated the early farmhouse stills. Today, a generation of women beverage alcohol mak- ers are reprising these roles and, in the process, helping to redefine the drinks industry. In much the same way, women chefs are engaged in what you could call a mass restaurant takeover, as they take charge at the pass. On these pages, we’ve teamed up female chefs and drinks makers to create some fabulous pairings that just happen to be ideal for spring.

In honour of International Women’s Day, we’re celebrating a few of the many women makers who are leaving their mark on the bottles, growlers and cans of Ontario beverages. Raise a glass while you enjoy perfectly paired dishes created by local women chefs.

By Christine Sismondo | Photography by rob fiocca

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FOOD & DRINK SPRING 2022

WONDER WOMEN

CHESTER SUGGESTS SERVING LANEWAY NO 33 GIN (LCBO 19443, $98.95) ON THE ROCKS, AND CHIN RECOMMENDS PAIRING ITWITHHER JUNIPER-CURED SALMON (RECIPE P. 109) TO COAX OUT THE SPIRIT’S COMPLEXITY.

MORE SPIRITED WOMEN

Jessica Chester Co-founder of Laneway Distillers, Toronto Sisters in Spirit

Melissa Bernais, distiller, Paradigm Spirits After a decade spent working in tech, Bernais followed her dream, becoming a distiller at this woman-­ owned London, Ont., distillery.

Even though Jessica Chester is known amongst friends and family for her love of complex gins, the vodka-based Cosmopol- itan was the cocktail that gave her a “lightbulb” moment. It was in Manhattan, as Chester sat at a bar and watched the staff mix up her first proper, legal mixed drink. “I realized that what I was getting was the bartender’s time and skill at balancing flavours,” she says.

Years later, she found her- self bonding with neighbour Reagan Soucie, who she met in the laneway behind their houses in west-end Toronto, where she moved after years working in New York and London. Before long, the dynamic duo went on, in September 2020, to launch Laneway Distillers. Chester, born in England, says she and partner- in-gin Soucie, who hails from Northern Ontario, challenge

each other in all the right ways— including dreaming big, which is part of the reason their portfolio is so ambitious: two gins, a vodka and a gin-based liqueur, so far. “I’ve been called aggressive, something I’ve started to think of as a compliment.... If I’d been a man, I would have been called ‘passionate,’” she says. “I think Ontario has amazing opportuni- ties, but you have to be fearless to make the most of them.”

Miranda Drexler, part-time distiller, Dixon’s Distilled Spirits Although Drexler has a day job in real estate, she still spends plenty of time at the Guelph distillery where, at 20, she started as a distill- ing apprentice.

Hawaiian-born Eva Chin has cooked her way around the world, but at the heart of her cuisine is the farm in Oahu where she grew up. There, her grandmother taught her about the land and how to communicate through food, something that Chester heard loud and clear when she first dined at Momofuku’s Ko¯jin (Chin’s previous restaurant) and immediately became her biggest fan. Eva Chin Executive chef, Avling Kitchen and Brewery, Toronto Farm-to-Table

JESSICA CHESTER BY KATIA TAYLOR PHOTOGRAPHY; MELISSA BERNAIS BY PARADIGM SPIRITS BY CHRISTINE REID

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